'04 325Ci vert, 136k, auto.
I've owned a about a month. Runs beautifully. I was getting imtermittent cog o death, service engine soon and change oil soon lights, but they seem to have cleared themselves up after a new battery.
This pic was taken by the wife.She said the oil light came on as she pulled into the driveway after driving home, about 30 minutes mostly highway.
She did say "wow that thing goes 90mph so easily".
So, it was after a somewhat spirited drive, so maybe the oil was a bit warmer than normal.
oil light.jpg
Temp is normal. Idle seems about right.
She did shut it off immediately after the pic.
I had a local shop do a post purchase inspection and he said it did have a faulty oil level sensor.
Is that my problem? I plan on changing it soon.
Started it up this morning. Sounds good. No light.
I have read about rod bearing recalls. Could this apply to me? It is the M54 engine.
Guess not. Looks like that was M3 only.
Yellow oil light means low on oil, or the sensor is bad.
Red oil light means low oil pressure. That's not a good thing. The oil pressure sensor could be bad, but there also could be underlying oil pressure issues.
ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician
Looks like sending unit replacement is cheap and easy. Guess I'll get one on order.
Any recommendations on where to get it?
FCP Euro I think is the name of the place. Just make sure it’s an OEM part and not a cheap Chinese made junk part.
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ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician
Yup, just ordered it from FCP.
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Hope it is the oil pressure sender that is the problem. If its not the sender or hot thin oil, then you are into a backed off oil pump sprocket nut or damaged piston oil squirters (item 11 in diagram) https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_2167
Both require you to get into the bottom of the engine to check.
1999 2.8L Z3 Roadster,
2000 3.0L Z3 Roadster,
There is only one thing more pleasurable than working on a Z3, that's driving it top down on a fine day.
We had a e39 540 with the red oil light checked oil pressure with the gauge and at idle it was just be low min when we reved the engine we saw that the oil pressure would jump up to like 80 psi then the pressure relief valve would finally move and the pressure would drop to a lower pressure so we used lubrimoly engine flush because we felt the relief valve was sticking and change the oil to 5w40 the light has been off ever since
Just a bit more info. Last oil change by PO was M1 10/40 at 132.5K (currently at about 136.7k), so a bit over 4K and 13 months since change. He also did a Mann filter.
From the reading I have done, seems like 0/40 M1 is a popular choice.
Was also thinking about having an analysis done on what's in there now.
Any recommendations appreciated.
Let’s see what the new oil pressure switch does. If that doesn’t work, try the LiquiMoly flush. Allow the oil to drain for 30 minutes and then put in an oil that carries the BMW LL01 rating. Mobil 1 no longer carried that approval, but there are several brands that do. Also, install a new Mann oil filter. You can buy it on Amazon.
Haven't seen the red oil light recently. Do plan on an oil change soon.
Mobil 1 used to have the BMW rating, but no more. What changed? Did BMW have issues with M1? Did M1 change? Or is it just that someone else gives BMW $$$$?
Any thoughts on walmart brand full snthetic? It is considerably cheaper.
On these older cars, I tend to stick with a rule of thumb:
1. Yearly oil changes only if you do less than 7.5k on the car.
2. Change the oil every 7.5k with whatever oil you like just so long as it meets the SN standard in the oil donut.
I have used M1 0w-40 for years in the wagon, and changed every 7-7.5k as I get the time. In the past I didn't put more than 7k on the car, as it was the wife's get around town car for 10 years. I am not sure why they lost the LL-01 rating either, or they just didn't want to pay to have the pleasure of marking the bottle any more, not sure either.
Long and extended oil changes will create sludge in almost any motor, even with my new cars I refused to wait so long to change the oil even while they were under the factory warranty. I tend to keep my cars for 20+ years before I sell or crush them, but I tend to take care of them while I do own them.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
Mobil changed its formulation of 0W40 oil and didn’t feel like paying BMW to certify the new oil. I’m sure it’s still a very good oil. Porsche specified its for its engines.
If I were you, I would run a can of https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/pro...ui-moly-lm2037 prior to your oil change. Many people use Shell Rotella diesel oil in m54 with good luck, including myself. 5w-40. I used to run mobil1 until I tried Rotella.
Last edited by Mless5; 07-15-2020 at 05:24 PM.
Yeah, LM makes great products. I use LM oil in my M240i at the track.
Just checking if the OP may follow up. We just purchased a 2000 323i in a very good condition. This is my first BMW so just getting familiar with it. The oil pressure light occasionally comes up YELLOW for a few seconds and then goes away. Checked the oil level and appears to be in between the marks. Just getting ready to replace all fluids including the engine oil + filter to see if it changes anything but if a flush may be recommended I can do it before putting in fresh oil.
Has anyone tried adding Seafoam before draining the old oil?
Last edited by NewB2Beemer; 08-24-2020 at 04:09 PM.
Your yellow oil light is coming up as the oil level sensor is toast. It is located in the bottom of the sump and mounted on 3 bolts. Best time to change it is when you change the oil.
1999 2.8L Z3 Roadster,
2000 3.0L Z3 Roadster,
There is only one thing more pleasurable than working on a Z3, that's driving it top down on a fine day.
+1
Hella is the OE provider to BMW for that sensor.
I like to go old school and use ATF as a flush, about 1 quart works for most 6-cylinders. Run the car for about a hunded miles or so, then change the oil.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
Thanks, ordered the part and will update the thread once get it and replace it.
I have never used ATF to flush, so you just dump a quart of, lets say Valvoline Maxlife or Supertech ATF into the engine and run it a bit before draining it? I'll give it try...!
Yup, doesn't matter what type or who makes the ATF, I just get the cheapest one on sale. ATF is packed full of cleaners and detergents as it has to keep the trans clean for 50k miles, so a short drive with it in the motor, and it will get in the cracks and corners that oil likes to hang out and even work on some sludge too.
I do it every couple of years on each one of my cars, 1/2 quart for the 4 cylinders, and a full quart for the 6 cylinders. Being a little over on the dipstick is okay, so don't worry if you are 1/2 a quart over.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
Just reporting back that the new oil level sensor fixed the occasional yellow warning issue in my case. Moving on to address the occasional P1188-P1189 problem this weekend.
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