I knew that in my love for buying cheap craigslist bimmers would eventually lead to this day and here we are.
I suspect that because the vehicle has a "lifetime fluid" with no dipstick that it hadn't been serviced in.... Anyways, vehicle began shifting late and hard a couple months back so I began the process of doing a filter/fluid change. The fluid looked profanely awful and after getting it refilled the vehicle is virtually undrivable unless I power brake force a trans program error.
I tested the line pressure, all good.
I tested the solenoids and speed sensors with a multimeter at the TCM, all good.
Pulled codes using the BMW specialty tool, DTC 100.
Battery voltage and alternator output are good as well.
I am going to use my fancy new tool to double check the transmission fluid temperature while triple checking the fluid level on a very level surface.
Other than that I have come to terms with rebuilding this transmission but I'm not exactly sure what has failed.
It seems that since the transmission is slipping in all gears it is most likely the "A clutch pack" but unfortunately my automatic transmission class went online due to covid before we got to do a full teardown so.....
As shogun pointed out in another post I am very luck to be having this issue with a zf box and not the GM one.
If anyone has any advice or input on this situation I would greatly appreciate it!
Sent from my moto e6 using Tapatalk
Fluid looks bad, but I have seen worse. Does it smell burnt? Are there larger metal particles in the pan on the magnets? Maybe you change once more the fluid and overhaul the valve body, with a normal ATF drain you will not get the valve body clean, you have to remove all solenoids, clean them with brake cleaner, test if they slide smooth, new plastic ball.
No need to buy one of this expensive valve body overhaul kits which covers everything, different plate gaskets from which you only need one, springs are normally not needed etc, what you need is a new plate gasket and plastic ball(s).
Depending on the ZF name tag on the trans, type, serial number and Stuecklistennummer you can order from a good trans shop exactly what you need and not that expensive package.
The 5HP18 has 2 different ZF gaskets depending on Stuecklistennummer = parts list number
gaskets 1056 327 100 5HP18 old Version
gasket 1056 327 110 5HP18 new Version
If I remember right old version will not work in a valve body with originally new gasket, new version will work in a valve body with originally old gasket, but I have both on stock and always use the same design gasket.
What is the Stuecklistennummer on your trans? Maybe a member has it, I have some here, but not all, but ZF NA will give it to you or a authorized shop by ZF.
Here you can see on my buddies site the 5HP18 valve body disassembled, the green ball and also a filter inside the valve body, maybe that is also clogged and therefore you do not get enough pressure on the clutch packs http://e32b12.blogspot.com/search/label/5HP18
Last edited by shogun; 07-31-2020 at 09:34 AM.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
DTC 100 speed monitoring means what you are putting in at the front of the trans does not equate to what is coming out of the back - it is slipping. But you know that already. When you trick it into going into limp mode, all the solenoids in the VB are switched off. The line pressure is not regulated and you get as much as the system can push out. That increased pressure is what will be enabling the clutches to hold.
There does not appear to be much in the way of metal filings on the magnets. But confirming what type of debris was in the pan would give an indication of what is failing or has failed.
Does reverse work normally but all forward gears slip?
I greatly appreciate the assistance. Sorry for the delayed reply. I got caught up in another project but that's for another post.
The fluid is indeed very gross, but there were no metal flakes or indication of mechanical failure. It smells bad but not burnt. I really let it warm up yesterday and cycled out some fluid which was again dark and smelly but it didn't smell burnt. Although I've only smelt burnt fluid a couple times and it wasn't recently.
If I could fix this in the valve body that would be amazing! Good to know that the overhaul kit is not necessary for this portion of the repair. I'm not sure if I have the old zf or newer. I took a picture of the plate and I will post it shortly.
Yes reverse works but vehicle slips in all forward gears.
Thanks again!
Last edited by chazsandiego; 07-30-2020 at 06:13 PM.
BMW E34 530 M60, 03/93 - 08/93, Code:ZMG, ZF p/n 1056 000 087 , BMW p/n 24001421214 https://aftermarket.zf.com/us/united...s-id-guide.pdf
Transmission Oil Reference Guide, Make ,Oil Grade Dexron III ,Type Plate black 1056 000 087
for gasket see 5HP18 Kit Content , item # 27.220 where used in 1056 000 ...
1056 327 100 Gasket 1 Not used in North American application
1056 327 110 Gasket 1 All
https://www.thectsc.com/images/pdf/5HP18.pdf
HP18 Valve Body Gaskets
The ZF 5HP18 is a 5 speed rear wheel drive automatic transmission primarily used in the BMW. There are two possible valve body gaskets as illustrated below in the pictures. Part number 1056 327 110 is the valve body gasket used in North American application and 1056 327 100 version of the gasket is usually not used in North America. It is suggested to purchase the set of two if you are not sure which one you need. The price difference between just buying one compared to the set is minor. The last picture where both gaskets are in the same picture side by side you will notice blue arrows pointing out some of the more visible differences between the two. http://cobratransmission.blogspot.co...y-gaskets.html
position 27.100 1043 326 037 Ball 2 All * Available in kit 5HP18VBK , here you can get them as single parts for $0.99 each https://cobratransmission.com/ZF-4-S...all-1043326037 Part #: IPN6-13927N Made by: Precision International
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ody-check-ball
Last edited by shogun; 07-30-2020 at 09:52 PM.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Does sound like the A clutch. Are you able to check the pressure on that? Even if you are not, overhauling the VB is never a waste of time. It could be choked up. Don't forget the little internal filter or 'screen'
It's interesting that a single clutch could make all forward slip but it will work in limp mode. I've never looked closely at the 5hp18 in my car but I've spent the last year working on the old BTRs that aussie ford falcons have. Which had plenty of valve body issues.
Could be not enough pressure, like blocked filters and strainers as suggested. I had failing/ solenoids/blocked solenoid strainers on the BTR. It's always worth a look as professionals would have written of my gearbox with clutch and/or piston/piston seal problems when it only required a valve body clean and a single solenoid replacement.
I used to have a great video or website on a 5hp18 strip down but I can't find it now. But I did find this video on a valve body rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbmprgrHvkU
E: I think this was the strip down I watched a couple of years ago and used to have bookmarked https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQBPH8MF6N0
Last edited by fo3; 07-31-2020 at 10:23 AM.
The shop manual has some troubleshooting info, many years ago I retyped that, just forget about when they often mention replace ........., all is repairable, so replace the word replace with repair.
Troubleshooting BMW A5S 310Z ZF 5HP18
Condition.... Cause.... Remedy
Position : Park position does not engage
a) Shift linkage between selector lever and transmission maladjusted
b) Excessive friction in parking lock mechanism
a) Adjust selector lever, refer to 24 00 007
b) Replace parking lock parts (connecting rod, pawl),refer to 24 34 006
-----------
Park position does not hold (slips)
Shift linkage between selector lever and transmission maladjusted
Adjust selector lever, refer to 24 00 007
--------------------------
Engine cannot be started in N or P, or can be started in all
positions
a) Shift linkage between selector lever and transmission maladjusted
b) Transmission switch faulty. Starter motor inhibit relay or power line defective
a) Adjust selector lever, refer to 24 00 007
b) Replacing transmission switch, refer to 25 16 080. Replacing/repairing relay between inlet lines
---------------------
Position R : No reverse gear
a) Shift linkage between selector lever and transmission maladjusted
b) Clutch B destroyed
c) Brake D destroyed In this case also no engine braking effect in position 2,1st gear
d) Brake G destroyed
e) Refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
a) Adjust selector lever, refer to 24 00 007
b) Exchange transmission, refer to 24 00 046
c) Exchange transmission, refer to 24 00 046
d) Exchange transmission, refer to 24 00 046
------------------------
Hard engaging jolt P-R or N-R
a) Idling speed too high
b) Refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
a) Refer to Test Plan
-------------------
Backup lights do not light up (electrics OK)
a) Transmission switch faulty
b) Shift actuation between selector lever and transmission incorrectly set
a) Replace transmission switch, refer to 25 16 080
b) Adjust selector lever, refer to 24 00 007
-------------------
Car moves or creeps
a) Shift linkage between selector lever and transmission maladjusted
b) Clutch A defective (welded solid)
a) Adjust selector lever, refer to 24 00 007
b) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
--------------------------
Position D: No power transmission
a) Clutch A destroyed
b) 1st gear one-way Gear defective
c) Shift linkage between selector lever and transmission maladjusted
a) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
b) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
c) Adjust selector lever, refer to 24 00 007
----------------
Hard shift impact N - D > 1500 rpm
a) Idling speed too high
b) Also refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
a) Refer to Inspection Manual
-----------------
No shift (warm or cold)
Refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
------------------
No shift: Shift 1-2
a) Brakes C1 and 2 faulty
b) Insufficient oil supply to brakes C1 and C2
a) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
b) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
---------------------
Shift 2-1
Refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
----------------
Shift 2-3
a) Clutch F faulty
b) Insufficient oil supply to clutch F
a) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
b) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
----------------
Shift 3-2
Refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
--------------
Shift 3-4
a) Clutch E faulty
b) Insufficient oil supply to clutch E
a) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
b) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
-----------------
No braking effect:Shift 4-3
a) Brake band C2 faulty; in this case shift 1-2 not OK
b) Insufficient oil supply to brake C2
a) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
b) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
------------------
No shift:Shift 4-5>>>Refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
----------------
No shift:Shift 5-4>>>Refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
----------------------
No shift:Shift 5-4
Clutch A faulty, in this case no 1st ... 4th gear
Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
---------------
Shift from full load to kickdown too long
a) Plates broken
b) Also refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
a) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
-----------------
Engine spins in shift 2-1
a) Poor friction torque at plates
b) 1st gear one-way Gear not OK
a)b) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
---------------
Engine spins in shift 2-3/3-2
a) Poor friction torque at plates
b) Also refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
a) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
-----------------------
Engine spins in shift 4-3
a) Poor friction torque at plates
b) 3rd gear one-way Gear not OK
a)b) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
-----------------
Engine spins in shift 4-5/5-4
a) Poor friction torque at plates
b) Also refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
a) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
-------------------
No engine braking effect, no manual downshift 5-4
a) Clutch A damaged
b) Also refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
a) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
-------------
No engine braking effect, no manual downshift 4-3/3-2
a) Refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
a) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
-------------------
No 1st gear, no braking action
a) Brake D faulty
b) Also refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
a) Replace converter, refer to 24 40 006
------------------
No converter lockup clutch
a) Torque converter faulty
b) Also refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
a) Replace converter, refer to 24 40 006
--------------
Engine dies when moving off in Drive (converter lockup clutch always engaged)
a) Torque converter faulty
b) Also refer to "Troubleshooting Valve Body"
a) Replace converter, refer to 24 40 006
-------------------
No positive engagement in forward or reverse
a) Driver pressed off impeller
a) Exchange transmission,refer to 24 00 046
-------------------
Noise: Noise in all positions
a) ATF level too low
b) Valve body leaks
c) Oil strainer dirty
d) Round seal on oil filter missing/faulty
a) Correct ATF level, refer to 24 00 026
b) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
c) Replace oil strainer, refer to 24 31 156
d) Replace round seal, refer to 24 31 156
----------------
Leaks Oil dripping from converter bell housing
a) Round seal on oil pump body leaks
b) Round seal on pump body leaks
c) Radial oil seal for converter leaks
a) Replace round seal, refer to 24 31 020
b) Replace round seal, refer to 24 31 020
c) Replace radial oil seal, refer to 24 31 020
---------------
Leak between transmission case and oil sump
a) Mounting bolts loose
b) Gasket faulty
a) Tighten bolts. For tightening torque, refer to Technical Data
b) Replace gasket, refer to 24 11 008
---------------
Leaks Output leaks
a) Radial oil seal for output flange leaks
b) O-ring for transmission extension leaks
a) Replace radial oil seal, refer to 24 12 016
b) Replace O-ring, refer to 24 12 016
-------------
Manual shift valve shaft leaks
Radial oil seal faulty
Replace radial oil seal, refer to 24 12 106
---------------
Transmission plug leaks
a) Plugs loose
b) Seals faulty
a) Tighten plugs For tightening torque, refer to Technical Data
b) Replace seals
------------------
Oil cooler pipes leak
a) Oil cooler pipes loose
b) O-rings faulty
a) Tighten oil cooler pipes. For tightening torque, refer to Technical Data
b) Replace O-rings
-------------------
Position R: No power transmission in reverse
a) Signal wire to solenoid 3 grounded
b) Valve piston for reverse gear lock not in parked position
a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
-------------------
Hard engaging jolt in position R
a) Damper of brake D malfunctions
b) Modulation pressure too high
c) Wire to pressure regulator faulty
d) Pressure regulator faulty
a) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
b) Replace pressure regulator, refer to 24 34 861
c) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
d) Replace pressure regulator, refer to 24 34 861
------------------
Position D : No power transmission forwards
a) Damper A blocked
b) Signal wire to solenoid 5 grounded
a) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
b) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
----------------
Hard engaging jolt in position D
a) Damper of clutch A malfunctions
b) Wire to pressure regulator faulty
c) Pressure regulator faulty
d) Modulation valve malfunctions
a) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
b) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
c) Replace pressure regulator, refer to 24 34 861
d) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
--------------------
Hard shift jolts in general
a) Modulation valve malfunctions
b) Wire to pressure regulator faulty
c) Pressure regulator faulty
a) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
b) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 34 501
c) Replace pressure regulator, refer to 24 34 861
------------------
Position D:No shift 1-2
a) Wire to output speed sensor faulty
b) Output speed sensor faulty
c) Signal wire to solenoid 1 grounded
d) Shift valve 1 seized in parked position
e) Damper C2 or clutch valve C1 seized
f) Shift valve 3 seized in parked position
a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace speed sensor,refer to 24 34 871
c) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
d) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
e) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
f) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
---------------------
No shift 2-1
a) Signal or positive wire to solenoid 1 faulty
b) Solenoid 1 faulty
c) Shift valve seized in pushed position
a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace solenoid 1, refer to 24 34 853
c) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
----------------
No shift 2-3
a) Signal wire to solenoid 2 faulty
b) Solenoid 2 faulty
c) Shift valve 2 seized in pushed position
d) Pulling valve 2-3 seized in parked position
a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace solenoid 2, refer to 24 34 853
c) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
d) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
--------------------
No shift 3-2
a) Signal or positive wire to solenoid 2 faulty
b) Shift valve seized in parked position
c) Pulling valve 2-3 seized in pushed position
a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
c) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
-------------------
Position D:No shift 3-4
a) Signal wire to solenoid 3 grounded
b) Solenoid 3 faulty
c) Shift valve seized in pushed position
d) Damper E seized
a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace solenoid 3, refer to 24 34 853
c) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
d) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
--------------------
No shift 4-3
a) Signal or positive lead to SV 1 defective
b) Shift valve 4 seized in parked position
c) Damper C2 blocked
a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
c) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
-------------------
No shift 5-4
a) Signal wire to solenoid 1 grounded
b) Solenoid 1 faulty
c) Shift valve 4 seized in pushed position
a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace solenoid 1, refer to 24 34 853
c) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
----------------------
Car moves off in 2nd gear engaged
a) Signal or positive wire to solenoid 1 faulty, in this case no 5th gear
b) Shift valve 1 seized in parked position
a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
--------------------
Car moves off in 3rd gear engaged
a) Signal or positive wire to solenoids 1 and 2 faulty
b) Shift valves 1 and 2 seized in parked position
a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
----------------
Car moves off in 4th gear engaged
a) General positive wire faulty (transmission without current)
b) Shift valves 1, 2 and 3 seized in parked position
a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
---------------
Shift transitions in zero load positions, full load shifts too hard
a) Modulation valve function not O.K.
b) Wire to pressure regulator faulty
c) Pressure regulator faulty
d) Damper malfunctions
a) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
b) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
c) Replace pressure regulator, refer to 24 34 861
d) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
---------------------
Shift transitions of full load and kickdown shifts too long
a) Pressure reducing valve 1 or 2 not O.K.
b) Modulation valve function not O.K.
c) Pressure regulator faulty
a) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
b) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
c) Replace pressure regulator, refer to 24 34 861
------------------------------
Engine dies from shift 2-3/3-2 (overlapped control)
a) Signal or positive lead to SV 4 defective
b) Solenoid 4 faulty
c) Pull/push valve 1 moves too hard
d) Aperture for damper G clogged
e) Damper F moves too hard
f) Pull valve 2-3/3-2 moves too hard
a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace solenoid 4, refer to 24 34 853
c) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
d) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
e) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
f) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
------------------------
Engine dies from shift 4-5/5-4 (overlapped control)
a) Signal or positive lead to SV 5 defective
b) Solenoid 5 faulty
c) Pull/push valve 2 moves too hard
d) Damper C2 malfunctions
e) Pull valve 4-5/5-4 moves too hard
f) Damper A moves too hard
a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace solenoid 5, refer to 24 34 853
c) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
d) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
e) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
f) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
---------------------
Converter lockup clutch - Shift transitions too hard
Converter clutch function impaired
Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
------------------
No converter lockup clutch
a) Signal or positive wire to solenoid 6 faulty
b) Solenoid 6 faulty
a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace solenoid 6, refer to 24 34 853
--------------------
Engine dies when stopping car in drive position (converter lockup
clutch always engaged)
a) Signal wire to solenoid 6 grounded
b) Converter lockup clutch valve seized in pushed position
c) Solenoid 6 faulty
a) Repair/replace wire harness, refer to 24 35 501
b) Replace valve body, refer to 24 30 006
c) Replace solenoid 6, refer to 24 34 853
----------------
Shift speed and shift quality generally not O.K.
Temperature sensor not O.K.
Replace wiring harness,refer to 24 35 501
-----------------
Troubleshooting peripherals
Idling speed control (throttle valve electronic engine power
control)
Wrong shift points, oscillating shifts
a) Engine idling speed too high or too low
b) Idling speed control valve faulty
a) Refer to Test Plan
b) Replace idle speed control valve, refer to 13 41 500
--------------------
Kickdown switch
No kickdown shifts, only partial load/full load shifts
a) Wire harness faulty
b) Kickdown switch faulty
c) Kickdown switch maladjusted
a) Repair wire harness
b) Replace kickdown switch, refer to 35 41 480
c) Check adjustment, refer to 35 41 480
-----------------
Program switch: No S program or only S program
a) Signal wire to program switch faulty
b) Program switch faulty
a) Repair wire harness
b) Replace program switch, refer to 61 31 265
---------------------
No W program or only W program
a) Signal wire to program switch faulty
b) Program switch faulty
a) Repair wire harness
b) Replace program switch,refer to 61 31 265
----------------
Position switch (selector lever):No shifts Car remains in shifted gear
a) No positive supply/fuse faulty
b) Signal wire faulty
c) Switch faulty
a) Replace fuse
b) Repair wire harness
c) Replace switch, refer to 25 16 080
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Thanks everyone!
I am going to pull that valve body in the next couple weeks.
I will get the two different gaskets just to be safe. Do I need just the one check ball or would it be better to get a few?
As far as checking the line pressure on just the A clutch, I believe you have to "tap the case" if I remember correctly. But I'm definitely going to double check that procedure.
Thanks again!
Sent from my moto e6 using Tapatalk
see my post #5 with regards to qty of balls. all shown here in detail, see from page 22 https://www.thectsc.com/images/pdf/5HP18.pdf and the locations are shown here http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Troubl...ch%20Guide.pdf
be careful with the small valve orifices, they are tiny, have the size of your small finger nail and get lost easily or you forgot where they were.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Too bad your in CA, I’m about to swap the 5hp18 in my 530 for a 5 speed. I would make you a heck of a deal on it. It actually is in good shape for what I’m guessing is the original trans with 195k miles.
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Alrighty. My check balls have arrived and I'm going to pull this valve body tomorrow.
Wondering where should I look for the check balls if they have left their oem location? Will they be in lower front or lower rear valve body?
Also, I'm assuming the torx screws that hold the vb together are only accessible from the top once the vb has been removed.
Thanks as always wish me luck!
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Here is a German language instruction with many pics which will help you, use for the text translation (if necessary) google translate and print it out on a separate sheet, but the pics are most important
https://forum.e34.de/thread.php?thre...light=ZF+5HP18
5HP18 valve body overhaul DIY recovered with wayback machine https://web.archive.org/web/20150918...aul-DIY-Part-1
Frank has posted pics here and a video VB overhaul http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showt...build-question
part 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbmprgrHvkU
part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i7NLvZT1Ulw
more pics from my wrenching buddy's site http://e32b12.blogspot.com/search/label/5HP18
Hope that helps
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
I pulled the valve body a couple days back and it went very well. Thank you for all the technical information Shogun, it made everything much smoother.
Unfortunately, the VB was without any noticable detects or damage, just a little bit mucky but nothing that would be an problem. The check balls were in their respective locations and were replaced regardless. I also have a new dtc, #42.
This leads me to conclude that the band (or clutch pack, don't remember) mentioned in my first post is toast
I am capable and confident in my ability to repair this autobox myself. However I am unsure as how I should approach this.
Would it be possible to:
1. Jack up the front end of the vehicle.
2. Disengage the output shaft.
3. Support the trans, and separate from engine.
4. Lower the trans, pull the tc, oil pump etc and access the fault with the gearbox still under the vehicle?
Also, is it even worth repairing at this point or should I take my L and move on?
Any advice, opinions or anecdotal are always appreciated!
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Last edited by chazsandiego; 10-14-2020 at 03:32 PM.
well, then it is probably a clutch pack problem. Now you have to decide and the factors are time and $, easiest, fastest is to get a reman trans, but that costs, if you want to DIY and learn in this process, try to reman DIY, parts are much less than a reman trans. How to get the trans out without pit or lift is shown here by Johan http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/gear...rbox_swap.html
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Band does not apply in first. So if it is slipping in 1-4 that is more likely to be the A clutch. Were you able to check the pressure on that or just the mains at idle? Code 42 is the output speed sensor. Resistance check is not foolproof but if it is more that a few ohms different from the turbine speed sensor, it is suspect.
You can remove the trans with the front end raised but somewhere along the line you will have to spin a rear wheel so you can get to all the giubo bolts. The heat shield and exhaust will have to come off so you can get to the centre bearing. You need to drop that so the drive shaft bends or you will not get it out - it fits into the output flange.
If you have the time and the inclination, removing the trans and finding out what has actually gone wrong internally can be interesting and rewarding. You then have to decide why that particular item failed in the first place because you don't want to be doing this again
Took some time to think about it. As much as I would like to fix this transmission myself for the experience and fun of it I have to move on from the vehicle.
I'm getting ready to move across country (chaznewyorkcity) after passing some of my ASE's in December and I need less cars.
Repairing the vehicle for sale would be negligible considering the vehicle was hit back in February as well.
I think I'm going to part the car out rather than sell it whole. I could use some of the parts for my other e34.
Would it be possible to mate the m60b30 to the zf4hp24 in my e32?
As always any advice is greatly appreciated!
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The M60B30 in the E32 usually has a ZF 5HP18 installed. To mate the M60 in your 735 would require a lot of work, control modules, wire looms, cooling system, driveshaft etc.
I would keep the M30 in the 735 and sell the M60 engine.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
The question has been asked a few times over the years. The short answer is no. Pretty sure it will not even bolt up.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ssion-adapters
Thanks for the reality check on the engine swap!
I started parting the car out yesterday and I'll be able to use a lot of parts for my 535.
Also, what is a m60b30 with 180k worth?
Thanks again!
Sent from my moto e6 using Tapatalk
You mentioned earlier pressure line solenoid by keep turning to get smother shifting. Pressure line solenoid hole and body assembly also has a hole did you remember what size you made it in there? The hole approximately 2mm and could be adjusted less by turning solenoid and under pressure will spray to what gear ?
Your E32 735 has a ZF 4HP22, you mean these holes? https://transpartswarehouse.com/6942...body-only.html
Nothing mentioned in the shop manual about this, if it would be critical, there would be very detailed instructions in the ZF workshop manual, just install the valve, add the fixing fork, tighten the screw https://workshop-manuals.com/landrov...(mv_1_amp;_2)/
https://workshop-manuals.com/landrov..._valve_(mv_3)/
refit1. Clean pressure regulator and mating face with a lint free cloth.2. Position pressure regulator to valve body, fit Torx screws and tighten to 8 Nm (6 lbf.ft). 3. Connect multiplug to pressure regulator solenoid valve, fit clip and secure harness to
valve body.
https://workshop-manuals.com/landrov...ure_regulator/
The adjustment of the MV5 pressure valve on the 4HP22/24 is done here http://www.km5tz.com/images/850i/MVadj.jpg
http://e32b12.blogspot.com/2012/09/h...-solenoid.html
http://e32b12.blogspot.com/2012/09/h...-solenoid.html
clean the valve screen http://e32b12.blogspot.com/2012/09/h...-solenoid.html
http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Troubl...ch%20Guide.pdf
https://dokumen.tips/documents/autom...f4hp22-24.html
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
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