Mirror and door lock issues

[roarf]

My passenger mirror adjusts left and up but not down or right.

Also, my front passenger door is stuck closed and locked. There was no warning at all (actuator wasn't getting slow/weak). I can hear a brief click/electrical noise from that side when locking/unlocking but nothing happens and pulling the interior door handle only makes the pin pop up for as long as you hold it. Not sure if the actuator has just failed out of the blue or if there is some kind of electrical issue.

Backstory: I had my windows re-tinted recently and the front pass window regulator got broken in the process. So the tint installer agreed to replace it. Well, it wasn't the best work I've seen. I actually took the door panel off in advance so they wouldn't have to mess with it. When I got the car back the vapor barrier wasn't sealed up at all and the airbag light was on. The window seems to be working fine and I'm sure the mirror module was fully connected when I resealed the vapor barrier and put the door panel back on. Fast forward 5 days later and the door is now stuck shut and the passenger mirror is acting up. So I took the driver's door panel off and checked the wiring to/from the window/mirror switch and didn't see any damage. Weirder yet, before I took the driver's door panel off, the driver's door mirror wouldn't adjust at all or fold up. That side seems to be working now that I got the switch out.

Does this point to an issue with the mirror module or the mirror motor itself? Is there anything I can try electrically to try to get the door unlocked? If the lock actuator is toast, can anyone provide some tips on getting the door panel off with the door closed? I assume I'm going to have to break the vent screw.

Any help is appreciated.

[roarf]

So does anyone have any suggestions on things to try to get the door open before I break the vent on the door panel? Is the method of breaking the airbag cover open a better option?

How about the odd mirror behavior? If this is a problem with the mirror motor, why wouldn't I lose up/down or left/right together instead of losing only down/right?

Also, can anyone confirm if their door vents are glued to the door panel or if they are only held on by 3 screws? My driver's side vent appears to be glued on and I'm not sure if this is normal.

[JimLev]

Have you seen this?
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ck-Closed-Door

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

The door vent assembly was glued on by the factory, with one screw right next to the flapper, but the door needs to be open to get to it. Before tearing the panel all up, have you unscrewed the inner door handle and pulled it out? Pull on the cable? I have never had any problems like this in any of all the E39’s I have ever owned. Maybe if you pull the handle off, tug on the cables hook with a screwdriver’s shank through the hook, might pull more of what might have been hung up?

[roarf]

Have you seen this?
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ck-Closed-Door

Yeah, I'm leaning towards that method at this point as it seems less destructive than breaking the vent.

The door vent assembly was glued on by the factory, with one screw right next to the flapper, but the door needs to be open to get to it. Before tearing the panel all up, have you unscrewed the inner door handle and pulled it out? Pull on the cable? I have never had any problems like this in any of all the E39’s I have ever owned. Maybe if you pull the handle off, tug on the cables hook with a screwdriver’s shank through the hook, might pull more of what might have been hung up?

Ok, I just wasn't sure if the glue was normal or not since the vent is already held to the door panel with three screws. I haven't yet taken the door handle out and tried to pull on the cable because when I pull on the door handle the lock pin pops up, so I know it's still connected. 99% sure the lock actuator has failed.

[roarf]

Is it possible to release the lock/latch through the window seal area somehow? I realize this is like asking for instructions on how to break into an E39, so if anyone knows please PM me instead of posting it here. It seems to me that the lock actuator mechanically disengages the lock rod from the door latch/lock mechanism, since pulling up on the lock rod does not do anything in this case. Not sure if there is another way to release it.

[roarf]

Can someone please tell me which part of this (if any) I need to pull/push on to get it out of double lock? I have the top of the door panel pulled back so I have a straight shot down the lock rod hole to try and get something to happen.

[balidawg]

You could tap into the actuator wiring and give it a higher voltage to see if it moves, say 15v-20v. I’ve done that on other servos, steppers, electric motors in the past with some success.

The right front door actuator seems to be more prone to failure than the others. My theory is because the rears are a different/better design and the front left gets lots of use. When I replaced mine last year, I took it apart and found the grease completely dried up and the mechanism worn out. I posted photos of it on here somewhere.

[CSMBlack-540i]

When I replaced mine last year, I took it apart and found the grease completely dried up and the mechanism worn out. I posted photos of it on here somewhere.

Don't think many of us even consider greasing the door actuators on a regular basis until there's a problem. Door hinges and such get a nice coating of white lithium every 1-2 yrs. People might want to put that on their maintenance list..

[roarf]

Well, I found the problem...







The wiring to the lock actuator got smashed under the airbag bracket and must have been shorting out on the door sheet metal. As soon as I separated the wires both the lock actuator and mirrors worked normally. I went ahead and replaced the lock actuator anyways. The wires were not cut so I carefully un-smashed them, wrapped each with a little bit of tape, then routed the harness correctly in the clips at the top of the door.

As far as getting the door open went, I gave up on trying to poke around at the lock mechanism and just pried open the airbag cover. With the airbag cover open I was able to cut a slot in the vapor barrier and have a straight shot at the lock mechanism. Poked at it for a minute and felt something click. Pulled door handle and it opened right up. So, it is actually possible to get it out of double lock if you know which lever to move. I won't post it here since it may actually be reachable with the window up and the right tools, but if anyone is stuck like I was, send me a PM and I can help.

Airbag cover open.





Cut slot in vapor barrier. Hard to show but it gives you a straight shot at the lock mechanism.





Door open!





All fixed. If you don't have a way or can't get the lock mechanism out of double lock with locksmithing tools, I would strongly suggest popping the airbag cover off. Least destructive and easiest method by far. A few seconds with a plastic door panel pry tool and it easily breaks the foam tabs on the back of the panel off. You don't really need to glue it back on but I did. The panel is wedged in place by the armrest and overlapping leather, but I saved the foam tabs and glued them back in with a little hot glue. Enough to keep the cover securely attached, but will still easily break off again should the airbag go off.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Where the wires were mashed, were they exposed and shorting? If not, I would suggest that you cut the housings off and visually checking the copper. They could be frayed and just reattached when you moved the wire, eventually, resistance could build up and you will be back in that same situation again. Open them up, solder them back nice and solid and reseal with heatshrink. Glad you found it.

[roarf]

Where the wires were mashed, were they exposed and shorting? If not, I would suggest that you cut the housings off and visually checking the copper. They could be frayed and just reattached when you moved the wire, eventually, resistance could build up and you will be back in that same situation again. Open them up, solder them back nice and solid and reseal with heatshrink. Glad you found it.

The insulation was not cut, no exposed copper. I would be surprised if the copper got severed inside the insulation but yeah, I am considering cutting that section of wire out and patching in new. At least if it happens again I know exactly how to get it open.