Hey guys.
I got a bit of a scare yesterday when I lost my one remaining key for my 1996 520 (thankfully it showed up in the end).
I had just decoded the bitting and ordered a replacement key only the the week before, knowing that this will only give me mechanical access to the car and I'll need to get a transponder cloned from my existing key.
Since the car has been stored for the best part of a decade I figured I'll rip out the old aftermarket alarm system and install something modern so I thought I might as well look at disabling the immobiliser too so I can get replacement keys easier/cheaper. I'll be installing an immobiliser with the new alarm too.
Anyway, cutting to the chase a bit, I've read online some contradicting opinions on whether it's possible at all to "just cut this wire and you're good".
Can anyone clarify exactly what is involved doing this?
Thanks. 👍
Hi,
I suppose you only got the key cut but not the transponder replaced?
Is it not possible for you to order a new genuine key from the dealer for your car with the correct VIN? The keys are not that expensive.
Seems less hassle than bypassing the EWS, just my opinion.
I could get the transponder copied from the one remaining key but it's a lot more expensive here than it really should be. Going to the dealer is a no-go too, as it'll end up costing close to the value of the car. The car is also not road worthy at the moment so I can't bring it to them (needs tires, rear brakes, coolant flush).
I'll be fitting a new security system anyway so it makes sense to do the bypass now and I'll then be able to get replacement keys for under €10.
I am familiar with immobiliser work on some other makes/models but not so much on this car so I just thought I'd put it out there to those more familiar with it then I am.
Ever consider just ordering a new, correct, key?
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Do you know what EWS version is in your car? On the later EWS versions I think you have to code out EWS from the dme. I now use $5 keys on my e39 because I bought a dme with EWS bypassed.
demet
Hey, thanks for the info.
I think mine is EWS II (realOEM suggests so too), which may be the same as early E39's but I think most were EWS3?
I've read various things online about it being a simple case of either cutting a wire under the bonnet or adding a jumper to the EWS wiring itself but I can't find anything concrete.
I'll probably install an alarm that includes remote starting/warming for winter time, so an immobiliser delete is preferable to just getting a new key coded.
The immobilizer incorporates the starter relay, those are the wires to jump together. Yellow as I recall and next to each other in the connector, the heaviest gauge wires there so easy to spot. Either an earlier DME (413?) or a chip with the EWS coded out will enable start.
How much does a key cost where you are?
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Cheers,
The key cost will be €90.00 for the basic key and 150+ for registration, depending on time taken. They also want the car but It's still in the process of becoming road worthy again so I'd have to put it on a tow truck.
They also seemed pretty unsure about the procedure/cost when I gave them all the details so they were pretty vague about how long it would take. I suppose they don't see many E34's these days and only the older guys would have been familiar with them.
your car is ews2. It has a Siemens MS 40.1 5WK9003.
You can get a delete chip made and cut #7 wire on the main wire plug.
Or you could get a Siemens MS 40.1 5WK9002 and rip all that EWS bullshit out.
Sent from my SM-G390F using Tapatalk
Hey. Sorry to dig this back up, but I didn't get a definitive answer to my previous post about whether I need to do cut and join the yellow/black wires at the EWS in addition to a chip or is that an alternative to having a chip?
I had some spare time at the weekend so I went about de-pinning the EWS connector and bridging the 2 yellow/black wires as described above. I also tried it with the green wire de-pinned too and no luck in starting the engine. I didn't want to cut them in case it didn't work and de-pinning is easily reversible. I could get it to crank no problem but it wouldn't fire so I'm guessing that the immobiliser is also interrupting the ignition circuit maybe, as well as the starter motor circuit? It would still start with the key that has the transponder in it but not with the basic key without a transponder.
I also tried it with and without the EWS connector plugged back into the EWS module.
Thanks for the help.
The starter "relay" is incorporated into the EWS module. Jumping the pins discussed bypasses it. This is where the starter solenoid gets its juice, no need to cut them but they must be electrically joined for the starter to operate.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Yep, I get that. I was explaining why I didn't cut them.
I just de-pinned them and put a jumper between them so it's the same effect. I was able to get the engine to crank no probs but not to fire so there's obviously something else that gets interrupted by the EWS not detecting the correct key. I'm guessing it'll be the signal to the ignition coils but I haven't tested that theory yet. I'm fairly confident it's not interrupting fuel supply since it gives no indication of it trying to start even on the residual fuel that would be in the lines.
Sorry for not reading all.
You still need either a preEWS DME or an aftermarket "chip" with it deleted. In the US you'd be after a RED label DME w/PN ending 413. Not sure if the 2.0 uses the same one.
Last edited by ross1; 08-05-2020 at 09:13 AM.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
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