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Thread: Removing the immobiliser

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Removing the immobiliser

    Hey guys.
    I got a bit of a scare yesterday when I lost my one remaining key for my 1996 520 (thankfully it showed up in the end).

    I had just decoded the bitting and ordered a replacement key only the the week before, knowing that this will only give me mechanical access to the car and I'll need to get a transponder cloned from my existing key.

    Since the car has been stored for the best part of a decade I figured I'll rip out the old aftermarket alarm system and install something modern so I thought I might as well look at disabling the immobiliser too so I can get replacement keys easier/cheaper. I'll be installing an immobiliser with the new alarm too.

    Anyway, cutting to the chase a bit, I've read online some contradicting opinions on whether it's possible at all to "just cut this wire and you're good".

    Can anyone clarify exactly what is involved doing this?

    Thanks. 👍

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    95 E34 525TDS
    Hi,

    I suppose you only got the key cut but not the transponder replaced?
    Is it not possible for you to order a new genuine key from the dealer for your car with the correct VIN? The keys are not that expensive.
    Seems less hassle than bypassing the EWS, just my opinion.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tron5 View Post
    Hi,

    I suppose you only got the key cut but not the transponder replaced?
    Is it not possible for you to order a new genuine key from the dealer for your car with the correct VIN? The keys are not that expensive.
    Seems less hassle than bypassing the EWS, just my opinion.
    I could get the transponder copied from the one remaining key but it's a lot more expensive here than it really should be. Going to the dealer is a no-go too, as it'll end up costing close to the value of the car. The car is also not road worthy at the moment so I can't bring it to them (needs tires, rear brakes, coolant flush).

    I'll be fitting a new security system anyway so it makes sense to do the bypass now and I'll then be able to get replacement keys for under 10.

    I am familiar with immobiliser work on some other makes/models but not so much on this car so I just thought I'd put it out there to those more familiar with it then I am.

  4. #4
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    Ever consider just ordering a new, correct, key?

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    Ever consider just ordering a new, correct, key?
    Did you read my previous comment?

  6. #6
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    e28, e34, e39
    Do you know what EWS version is in your car? On the later EWS versions I think you have to code out EWS from the dme. I now use $5 keys on my e39 because I bought a dme with EWS bypassed.
    demet
    e28 e34 e39 e46

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by demetk View Post
    Do you know what EWS version is in your car? On the later EWS versions I think you have to code out EWS from the dme. I now use $5 keys on my e39 because I bought a dme with EWS bypassed.
    Hey, thanks for the info.
    I think mine is EWS II (realOEM suggests so too), which may be the same as early E39's but I think most were EWS3?

    I've read various things online about it being a simple case of either cutting a wire under the bonnet or adding a jumper to the EWS wiring itself but I can't find anything concrete.

    I'll probably install an alarm that includes remote starting/warming for winter time, so an immobiliser delete is preferable to just getting a new key coded.

  8. #8
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    The immobilizer incorporates the starter relay, those are the wires to jump together. Yellow as I recall and next to each other in the connector, the heaviest gauge wires there so easy to spot. Either an earlier DME (413?) or a chip with the EWS coded out will enable start.
    How much does a key cost where you are?

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    The immobilizer incorporates the starter relay, those are the wires to jump together. Yellow as I recall and next to each other in the connector, the heaviest gauge wires there so easy to spot. Either an earlier DME (413?) or a chip with the EWS coded out will enable start.
    How much does a key cost where you are?
    Cheers,
    The key cost will be 90.00 for the basic key and 150+ for registration, depending on time taken. They also want the car but It's still in the process of becoming road worthy again so I'd have to put it on a tow truck.

    They also seemed pretty unsure about the procedure/cost when I gave them all the details so they were pretty vague about how long it would take. I suppose they don't see many E34's these days and only the older guys would have been familiar with them.

  10. #10
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    1993 525i, 1995 520it
    your car is ews2. It has a Siemens MS 40.1 5WK9003.

    You can get a delete chip made and cut #7 wire on the main wire plug.

    Or you could get a Siemens MS 40.1 5WK9002 and rip all that EWS bullshit out.

    Sent from my SM-G390F using Tapatalk

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    The immobilizer incorporates the starter relay, those are the wires to jump together. Yellow as I recall and next to each other in the connector, the heaviest gauge wires there so easy to spot. Either an earlier DME (413?) or a chip with the EWS coded out will enable start.
    How much does a key cost where you are?
    pin 1&3
    black w/ yellow stripe.



    Sent from my SM-G390F using Tapatalk

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by OrientblauACS View Post
    your car is ews2. It has a Siemens MS 40.1 5WK9003.

    You can get a delete chip made and cut #7 wire on the main wire plug.

    Or you could get a Siemens MS 40.1 5WK9002 and rip all that EWS bullshit out.

    Sent from my SM-G390F using Tapatalk
    Hey. Thanks for the info.

    So would I need this delete chip in addition to jumping pins 1 and 3 mentioned below, or is this an alternative way that requires no jumper?

    Thanks again.

    Quote Originally Posted by OrientblauACS View Post
    pin 1&3
    black w/ yellow stripe.



    Sent from my SM-G390F using Tapatalk

  13. #13
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    Hey. Sorry to dig this back up, but I didn't get a definitive answer to my previous post about whether I need to do cut and join the yellow/black wires at the EWS in addition to a chip or is that an alternative to having a chip?

    I had some spare time at the weekend so I went about de-pinning the EWS connector and bridging the 2 yellow/black wires as described above. I also tried it with the green wire de-pinned too and no luck in starting the engine. I didn't want to cut them in case it didn't work and de-pinning is easily reversible. I could get it to crank no problem but it wouldn't fire so I'm guessing that the immobiliser is also interrupting the ignition circuit maybe, as well as the starter motor circuit? It would still start with the key that has the transponder in it but not with the basic key without a transponder.

    I also tried it with and without the EWS connector plugged back into the EWS module.

    Thanks for the help.

  14. #14
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    The starter "relay" is incorporated into the EWS module. Jumping the pins discussed bypasses it. This is where the starter solenoid gets its juice, no need to cut them but they must be electrically joined for the starter to operate.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    The starter "relay" is incorporated into the EWS module. Jumping the pins discussed bypasses it. This is where the starter solenoid gets its juice, no need to cut them but they must be electrically joined for the starter to operate.
    Yep, I get that. I was explaining why I didn't cut them.
    I just de-pinned them and put a jumper between them so it's the same effect. I was able to get the engine to crank no probs but not to fire so there's obviously something else that gets interrupted by the EWS not detecting the correct key. I'm guessing it'll be the signal to the ignition coils but I haven't tested that theory yet. I'm fairly confident it's not interrupting fuel supply since it gives no indication of it trying to start even on the residual fuel that would be in the lines.

  16. #16
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    Sorry for not reading all.
    You still need either a preEWS DME or an aftermarket "chip" with it deleted. In the US you'd be after a RED label DME w/PN ending 413. Not sure if the 2.0 uses the same one.
    Last edited by ross1; 08-05-2020 at 10:13 AM.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    Sorry for not reading all.
    You still need either a preEWS DME or an aftermarket "chip" with it deleted. In the US you'd be after a RED label DME w/PN ending 413. Not sure if the 2.0 uses the same one.
    Yeah I'm thinking I'll just go the route of changing out the DME for one that didn't have EWS.

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