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Thread: 2010 e92 328i Manual won’t start

  1. #1
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    2010 e92 328i Manual won’t start

    I’m currently stuck in the Costco parking lot with car that won’t start. I put in the key, everything normal. I press the start button (with the clutch in) and the fuel gauge turn on, but the engine doesn’t crank. Any idea?


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  2. #2
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    Sometimes, something blocks the clutch pedal from going all the way to the floor, and the starter interlock won't close.

    Otherwise, get something longish and whack on the starter, as, if the starter brushes are worn, they don't always make contact.

    Is your battery kind of dead?

  3. #3
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    It could be the starter not an uncommon problem with the e90's did you try another key

  4. #4
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    Starter is the most common "no-start" failure on an E90 (assuming the battery isn't dead)
    ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician

  5. #5
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    Update:

    I tried my wife's key, no luck
    I tried charging the battery, no luck
    I swapped out the starter motor relay behind the glove box; no luck
    I'm not so sure it's the starter as I don't hear the tell-tale click of the starter solinoid without the crank of the starter; perhaps BMW starters don't work that way though.

    To top it off, I disconnected the battery to explore the 'fix' shown in this video. I did not apply the fix, but when I reconnected the battery suddenly none of the interior lights, turn signals or power windows work. What's going on with this?

    At this point I'm at a bit of a loss. I don't want to just start throwing money at the problem; but then again, I do own a BMW.

  6. #6
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    BMW starters on N52 engines don’t fail in that manner. They won’t click or do anything. Same reason why knocking it with a hammer doesn’t work anymore.


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  7. #7
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    Update:

    As a quick reminder, my 2010 328i coupe will not start and now the windows, mirrors, interior lights and signal lights are not working. I think I may need a new starter and a new footwell module. That'll probably cost me close to a $1000 even doing the work myself. Before I spend that amount of money I would like some confirmation that replacing these items will solve the problem.

    Today I scanned the codes with my Foxwell NT510. After clearing the codes and running a new scan (with the ignition off and the key out) I got the following codes:
    A3C1: Message error (footwell module, 0x4F0), receiver instrument panel, transmitter footwell module.
    A3B4: Message error (lighting state, 0x21 A), receiver instrument panel, transmitter

    I cleared the codes again, inserted the key and pushed the start button. Then with the ignition still on, I ran another fresh scan. In addition to the two codes above I also received the following:
    A0B4: CAS: Engine start, starter operation
    D378: Message (FRMFA, 0x944) faulty (reverse gear switch), receiver DSC, transmitter DME-DDE

    Can anyone confirm my assessment that I need to replace the starter and footwell module? I find it unlikely that both items would have failed within hours of each other, but stranger things have happened.

  8. #8
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    Have you checked the clutch pedal interlock?

  9. #9
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    If you did the starter your self it would not cost $1000.00

  10. #10
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    Yes you need a starter and an FRM


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  11. #11
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    Sure enough. It was the starter and FRM. I got a replacement starter kit (includes intake manifold gaskets and starter bolts) for $188 from FCP Euro (which includes a lifetime warranty). I had my footwell module fixed by an eBay retailer out of Texas for $80 (also includes a lifetime warranty). That plus a whole lot of my own labor and my car is back on the road. Thanks for the help on this.

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