Well it happened.. rails just shattered. so I’m going rewatch all the vids and posts - Beisan, round the m62tu and jimlev and Nathan vids to refresh my memory. I tried to get into it a couple years ago just to be preventative, but never got around to it... until yesterday happened
I’ll be posting any issues and looking for advice. I’ve got my parts ordered, and will update when I get in there. As of right now, I’m just taking things apart waiting for all the parts.
Plan is to get the timing components, special tools, sending my vanos units to dr.vanos, and while I’m in there, clean up all the oil leaks. I believe I need a new steering pump, my pump moans when turning left.. i just finished refreshing all the suspension.
Transmission is also on the list to do, thinking about doin a rebuild with all new drums and new seals and solenoids for the valve body.
Exciting
Last edited by bighman209; 06-20-2020 at 07:04 PM.
Whoops I thought I was in the e39 sub forum..
Alright I’m at the stage where I’m about to takeoff the left hand thread bolts. Using a t55 torq bit, I got the bank 2 vanos one loose... but the exhaust bolt is a mofo! I counter held the cam and Pretty much laid into it but it didn’t budge.. left hand too. I can already see the bit and the inside of the bolt deforming.. Any trick to get this off? I’m using a 3/8 bit with breaker bar
I’m going to buy new t55 bit
2 people, a very good counter hold and a 1/2 inch bar.
2003 BMW 540i [Sterling Gray / Gray]
[Msport] [Mods from A-Z] [Two-Tone Interior]
Stuff For Sale :
All types of E39 OEM Used HVAC Buttons
Other E39 Parts, see my ebay! [Click]
I finally got it off. Damn. Wrecked two bits. And need a new exhaust bolt.. but yeah, that was crazy.
thanks for the reply.
Yes, a 1/2 breaker bar. The 3/8” bar is too short to get enough leverage.
What T55 bits are you using? Mine are black, don’t remember where I bought them. I’ve used the T55 at least 60+ times, it hasn’t deformed at all.
You'd be surprised Jim. I think my mech/friend went through 2 Matco T55s on that E cam. One snapped / one deformed, but won the fight.
I had popped into the shop (1 man show) as he was doing it and had to manage the counter. It was on there STUPIDLY tight, and just that one bolt with no sign of prior work.
Last edited by Dking078; 08-02-2020 at 11:34 PM.
2003 BMW 540i [Sterling Gray / Gray]
[Msport] [Mods from A-Z] [Two-Tone Interior]
Stuff For Sale :
All types of E39 OEM Used HVAC Buttons
Other E39 Parts, see my ebay! [Click]
I used cheap HF T55 bit, it is also black, no issue at all.
Mine were from autozone lol, I think it's important to go super slow and consistent, rather than try to brute it off real quick. Is your lower cover off already? If not, I highly advise you get the crank holder tool (or fab one if you have the ability). You probably already have the timing tools, most people opt for the cheaper ones on like amazon which are fine but I found the GAS tools which cost a bit more to leave very little guesswork. I didn't have any issues with some of the common post op engine/timing codes.
Good luck, honestly, it was sort of stressful cause I've never done a job of that scope, but also fun cause it wasn't my daily so I could just walk away from it when I was frustrated.
I was stressed after the first bit got deformed so I went to HF, Autozone and O'reillys...bought 1/2 and 3/8 bits. I have a virgin 1/2 bit left from HF that i will use to tighten LOL...also call over a buddy to counter hold the cam.
I'm waiting on the vanos units to come back from being rebuilt. I'm going to go to Home Depot and get the items to hold down the cam locks. Looking for the thread pitch that goes into the spark plug hole etc..
Question: since the whole top motor is pretty much accessible, I was thinking of getting some assembly lube and replacing all the lifters. Before all this, the motor was noisy... for that repair, I could just remove the cam locks, remove the bearing caps and since the cams are facing the correct way with the dots up and just pull them out...is there anything else I'm missing? Only thing that kind of makes me hesitate is bank 1 has some tension on the cam, so I'm afraid to release the locks and then watch the cam spin... right?
- - - Updated - - -
I bought the crank holder. The jesus bolt was not that bad to get off. I put PB blaster on it a couple days before, when I was at the initial stages of taking off covers etc. Not sure if that helped..also had 3' breaker bar and 4' pipe. Lower cover is off and yeah eBay timing tools...which came with a broken tensioner spring and wrong solenoid socket...i only hope the timing can be set correctly with their jigs.
Last edited by bighman209; 08-06-2020 at 08:55 PM.
Yes, the bank 1 intake cam will spin. However when you reinstall it just alternate tightening the cam cap nuts a few turns each so you are pulling the cam down evenly. This will take you 5-10 min but you won't damage the cam.
Post a pic of the eBay tools. What spring are you talking about, my kit doesn't use a spring.
To hold you cam lock blocks down you need something like this.
CamLockHolder1.JPG
CamLockHolder2.JPG
CamLockHolder3.JPG
Uh yeah I want those. I sent you a pm.
Also anyone got a hook up for powder coating in NorCal.. I’m in stockton
I would've gone with the GAS timing tools, they're not super expensive and they're a lot easier to use + more precise than the eBay tools. I've done about 20 of the 25 guide jobs I've done to this day with the GAS tools and it's a night and day difference with them.
That being said, you'll still be fine with whatever tools you have now, just take your time and check your work to make sure everything's lined up correctly, especially the cam timing wheels.
1995 525i 5-speed - Thread
yeah, i have been taking my time, going super slow and double checking everything coming off. Cleaning as I go. I'm definitely going to check the timing wheel after turning the motor by hand a couple revolutions. Watched Jim's video over and over.
This tensioner spring and vanos socket tool
95B513C3-123D-4536-9EC3-A48905CAE158.png
Sold by ubermotor on eBay.. I wouldn’t recommend
them. Poor communication and poor customer service.
Oh, that spring.
It’s used to keep the cam to cam chain pads from coming apart when remove the cam to cam chain.
One one bank that small tensioner comes apart from the top, on the other bank it comes apart from the bottom side.
Once you take the upper timing covers off you can use a big wrench to remove the vanos solenoids.
Pull the small check valves out that are directly behind the vanos solenoids and clean them.
Last edited by JimLev; 08-07-2020 at 10:23 PM.
I want to replace the cam timing chain tensioners and have the two top nuts off... and it’s hard to get off. Do I just yank it off or is there a trick to it?
- - - Updated - - -
Jim: when I pull the Vanos solenoid and get the check valve out, do I clean it with carb cleaner and run it back in?
I used a m10 x 1.0 50mm length. Got it at Home Depot. Just putting that out there incase someone tries to search..
But the cam tensioner’s are both really on there. It’s moving very little, but I don’t want to force it if I’m missing something. I searched and could not find anything on it
Yes, the cam to cam tensioner have an o-ring that is holding them tight in the top of the head.
Yank them out, be careful not to lose parts on the one that points down.
Carb cleaner for the check valves is fine.
Ok I’m setting the timing now. I had the vanos rebuilt and the paperwork that came with it said that with many rebuilt units, it may not indicate an audible continuity.. well I have the units on, the exhaust bolt and vanos bolt is loose, the cam chain is tensioned, the crank chain is on and lined up. I have the crank chain tensioner on and its finger tight as I could get it. I did the back n forth movement and set the Vanos sprocket counter clockwise and in the retarded position. No continuity. So is it true that continuity is 50-50?
- - - Updated - - -
The paperwork said to set it in its fully retarded position and then tighten down the bolts
I just want to make sure that’s a possibility and that I’m doing things right and not missing a step
Last edited by bighman209; 08-12-2020 at 10:28 PM.
Ok I’m researching that it’s not that important to have audible note. Just gave o make sure blocks don’t move, and the sprocket is all the way Counterclockwise
You won’t always get continuity, Just make sure it’s turned CCW all the way and you’ll be fine.
Ok so I put the cam locking holders on that jimlev sent and they helped big time. I set the timing following Jim’s video etc. To turn the motor easily, I loosened the spark plugs, but the whole turning the motor had resistance, however, it did go over all the way 3x.
question: I did replace the cam tensioners on both sides, but the one on bank 1 has slack? Please see video below:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k82p...ature=youtu.be
Bookmarks