Car not starting - solved

[monalonto]

Hey guys I have an issue with my e46 325ci.

Currently the car will not start. Here's what's happened upto this point.

So car would start but would run rough on idle
Next day I try start the car again, car starts, runs for a few secs then conks out (accelerator pushed doesn't seem to respond)
Try a couple more times, car won't start at all now, cranks but no turn over.
So I run diagnostic, says that cylinder 5 has an issue, so I'm thinking maybe coil or spark plugs.

I take the top off, remove spark plugs, 4 and 5 wells are pooled with oil. Plug in 5 is completely covered in oil. So I figure ok easy, no spark cause plug is cactus. I replaced all spark plugs and the valve cover gasket. Whack it all together and wait a day to try everything again.

Go to start it, tries to crank once, then nothing. I try again and it sounds like the starter is turning but not trying to crank the engine at all.

I attach my diagnostics and clear all errors then try start the car again, cylinder 5 error isn't showing any more but no other codes are coming up either.

Anyone had a similar issue or know what it would be before I potentially splurge out on a new starter motor?

[monalonto]

This is the sound I'm hearing now. https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5eda044d...605_172427.mp4

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

[MarcoZandrini]

How old is the battery? The first thing I’d do is get the battery fully charged. Once it’s charged you need to check the fuel pump. Remove the back seat lower cushion and listen for the pump to prime when the ignition is in the run position. Be advised that the pump will prime only a couple of times so it’s a good idea to remove the pump cover. It’s the squarish metal panel on the drivers side (you car is rhd) that’s held in place with 4 screws. Also, there’s a fuel
pressure test valve on the fuel rail. Item #2 in the link is the valve’s cap. Fuel pressure gas to be at least 50psi at all engine speeds and loads.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=13_0900

[whiskychaser]

This is the sound I'm hearing now. https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5eda044d...605_172427.mp4

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

Let's clear something up. Cranking and turning over are the same thing. That sounds like it is cranking fine - it just is not firing. If the engine ran for a short time and died or you kept cranking and it did not fire, it may be flooded. If so, it will be an absolute pig to start. Pull a couple of plugs and see if they are wet/stink of fuel. While the plugs are out, stick them back in the coils, ground the plug tips, crank the engine and check for spark.

[monalonto]

I've left the battery on charge while I'm at work today. I'll follow the flooded procedure that I saw on here. Will see how we go. HOPEFULLY that fixes it thanks for the reply

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

[monalonto]

Alright, so I charged the battery to full, put it back in, tried to start with the accelerator depressed for 25secs while trying to start the engine. No response or even try at a kick, gave it a good 5mins, then tried again. Still nothing. I then tried same thing with jumper cables on the Mrs car still nothing.

I then pulled the plugs and left them out for a good 30mins. Tried again after still nothing.

I was wondering if excessive oil that had leaked into the spark cylinder may be causing it to not fire, plugs are new and still clean when I pulled them.

Next thing I guess could be to replace coils perhaps?

Ye old spark plug... disgraceful I know.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

[whiskychaser]

The oil on the plug tip has probably run down when you took the old plugs out. If the engine is badly flooded, a bit of oil in the cylinders may actually help. You may have bore wash and the oil helps with the compressions. Ideally, you need to know that the fuel pressure is 51psi but you don't mention owning a fuel pressure gauge so we can only assume you don't have one. Do you hear the pump run for a few seconds when you turn on the ignition?

Did the new plugs stink of fuel and did you check for spark? You need fuel, spark and compression to make the engine run

[Andres G]

I've left the battery on charge while I'm at work today. I'll follow the flooded procedure that I saw on here. Will see how we go. HOPEFULLY that fixes it thanks for the reply

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

Suggestion: take plugs out a and crank the engine to clear the cylinders. Willing to be issue is fuel supply related.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[monalonto]

The oil on the plug tip has probably run down when you took the old plugs out. If the engine is badly flooded, a bit of oil in the cylinders may actually help. You may have bore wash and the oil helps with the compressions. Ideally, you need to know that the fuel pressure is 51psi but you don't mention owning a fuel pressure gauge so we can only assume you don't have one. Do you hear the pump run for a few seconds when you turn on the ignition?

Did the new plugs stink of fuel and did you check for spark? You need fuel, spark and compression to make the engine run

Just got back from holidays, took the mrs car so back to the car.

I dont have a pressure tester on hand or one i can borrow at the moment, i did see when i first tried to relieve the fuel rail using the valve that a small dribble of fuel came through. After trying the start the car a couple more times ive checked the valve again and was ready to catch the fuel that came out, only this time all i heard was a small amount of air escape. Replaced the cap and turned the car to the on position, could hear the pump in the back then switched the car off then went back to the valve again. Just air again, fuel filter is new so i dont think its blocked up. Am i looking at a new fuel pump potentially?

Thanks in advance for your help guys.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

[MarcoZandrini]

Yeah, the fuel pump and/or fuel filter is/are bad. Tge only brand of fuel pump to buy is Siemens/VDO. Do not buy an aftermarket pump. It’ll fail quickly. Also, you need to change the fuel filter as if contains the fuel pressure regulator. Buy only a Mahle or Keyser fuel filter. Buy a foot of high pressure fuel hose and 6 stainless steel clamps. There are 3 short hoses and 6 clamps at the filter. You also need to change the valve cover gasket. Buy the complete gasket set-gasket, 6 spark plug well gaskets and 13 (?) rubber grommets for the cover bolts. Do not over tighten the bolts! Buy new spark plugs. They need to be NKG BKR6EQUP plugs.

[ryunk]

One method of checking for a bad fuel pump is to bang the fuel tank with your fist two or three times, then try to start it. If it starts up, then the fuel pump is your problem. Sometimes you can unstick the fuel pump motor by pounding on the tank, not a fix though it will stick again soon. When my fuel pump went bad, it would crank but would not start, until I pounded the fuel tank a couple times. I started it this way for a week or so before I changed the pump.

[monalonto]

Right, have a new pump and filter installed and still no go. (I mean my car has 230k kms on it, wasnt sure when it was last replaced so probably needed it anyway) and still no go. Have hooked up PA Soft nothing that i think would cause no start there.
Ill paste in what it shot out shortly in the DME

[monalonto]

double post

[monalonto]

These are the codes that have been pulled, sorry its a long one, forgot to plug in the CAS when i changed the PCV oops

I cant see much there that would make the car not start, but i do see a lot of Exhaust codes?

# ERRORS DETAILS - DTC(hex)/PARAM(hex)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DME -> 7D/E2 - Electric fan
F2/B1 - Misfire, cylinder 5, misfiring with cylinder cutout (Misfire CARB_A)
41/B8 - Inlet camshaft sensor, signal implausible
Shadow-memory:
7D/E2 - Electric fan
F2/B1 - Misfire, cylinder 5, misfiring with cylinder cutout (Misfire CARB_A)
41/B8 - Inlet camshaft sensor, signal implausible
5A/12 - Exhaust temperature before catalyst, bank 1, signal line, short circuit to negative
5B/12 - Exhaust temperature before catalyst, bank 2, signal line, short circuit to negative
5D/12 - Exhaust temperature after catalyst, bank 2, signal line, short circuit to negative
3F/14 - Control unit self-test 3
85/08 - Signal, CAN ASC 3, timeout elapsed
34/02 - Solenoid valve, exhaust flap, short circuit to negative or open circuit


Errors after clear:


no errorsShadow-memory:
85/08 - Signal, CAN ASC 3, timeout elapsed
5A/12 - Exhaust temperature before catalyst, bank 1, signal line, short circuit to negative
5B/12 - Exhaust temperature before catalyst, bank 2, signal line, short circuit to negative
5D/12 - Exhaust temperature after catalyst, bank 2, signal line, short circuit to negative
34/02 - Solenoid valve, exhaust flap, short circuit to negative or open circuit
7D/02 - Electric fan


EWS -> 03/3F - Toleration of changing code increased, key 0
23/10 - Toleration of changing code increased, key 2
43/0C - Toleration of changing code increased, key 4
0F/3F - Power on reset


Errors after clear:


no errors


ABS* -> 5E1F/A0 - PT-CAN chassis number wrong / ECU not initialized.
5E16/20 - CAN Timeout instrument cluster
5DF7/A0 - Vehicle power > 18 Volt.
17FE/A0 - Error number 17FE
5DF5/E0 - Control unit internal failure


Errors after clear:


5E1F/A0 - PT-CAN chassis number wrong / ECU not initialized.
5E16/20 - CAN Timeout instrument cluster
5DF7/A0 - Vehicle power > 18 Volt.
17FE/A0 - Error number 17FE
5DF5/E0 - Control unit internal failure


SRS -> Shadow-memory:
05/40 - Side airbag, front left door, resistance too high


Errors after clear:


Shadow-memory:
05/40 - Side airbag, front left door, resistance too high


IKE -> F9/C4 - No CAN message (ASC3)
D7/81 - Tank sensor 2
CE/81 - Outside-temperature sensor
BE/88 - Data-filing difference to central light module (LCM)
C7/81 - Tank sensor 1


Errors after clear:


F9/44 - No CAN message (ASC3)


LCM -> Shadow-memory:
33/01 - Sidelight, front right
34/0F - Brake light, left
35/3F - Brake light, right
37/01 - Turn indicator, front right
38/01 - Sidelight, front left
3B/01 - Sidelight, rear left
3D/1F - Sidelight, rear right
3E/01 - Rear fog light faulty
3F/01 - Turn indicator, rear left
40/1B - Turn indicator, rear right
41/15 - Low beam, right
42/1E - Low beam, left


Errors after clear:


Shadow-memory:
no errors


ZKE -> 0D/04 - Power window: Open circuit Jam protection strip or lost of scaling/Error EKS electronic Driver's door
0E/04 - Power window: Open circuit Jam protection strip or lost of scaling/Error EKS electronic Passenger door
3D/0D - Central locking system: Short circuit or Open circuit at Motor Tailgate
01/03 - Wiper: Fuse for Pump, Interior light, Customer cut-off
30/01 - K-bus or Control unit for Instrument cluster basis (Gateway)
02/02 - Central locking system: Fuse
0A/02 - Power window: Open circuit Motor or Relay Passenger door
Shadow-memory:
92/04 - Repeat blocking: Central locking system
90/3E - Battery Voltage: Open circuit


Errors after clear:


no errorsShadow-memory:
no errors


SPMFT -> 04/01 - Mirror-moving-switch, interruption
Shadow-memory:
00/01 - Low voltage ( U < 8,5 Volt )
02/34 - Low voltage mirror-heating


Errors after clear:


no errorsShadow-memory:
no errors


SPMBT -> 08/3F - Mirror drive, potentiometer horizontal
Shadow-memory:
00/02 - Low voltage ( U < 8,5 Volt )
02/49 - Low voltage mirror-heating
04/01 - Mirror drive, potentiometer plausibility


Errors after clear:


no errorsShadow-memory:
no errors

[monalonto]

Ok... so problem solved.... and i feel dumb lol

The cause was either the fuel pump or filter. I had a quick thought that i saw 2 lines on the back of the fuel filter so did a quick search to check what colour line is what and.... yeah turns out i had the return line on the inlet of the filter...... hence the no pressure at the valve.

Note to self. Mark the line before you take it off and fuel spits all over everything and you forget which one is which.

Thank you for all the replies and suggestions/help

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

[whiskychaser]

The man who never made a mistake never made anything

[monalonto]

The man who never made a mistake never made anything

Haha yeah! It was still a bitch to start but after all the coughing and spluttering it got there. I have to go and re-torque the valve cover i think cause it's seeping out a little onto the exhaust creating a small amount of smoke. Will degrease everything, tighten then check where its coming from.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk