Steering refresh

[solimans]

Gents, planning a steering system refresh on the coupe 2.8.

So far I have the hoses, bolts, crush washers, reservoir, etc for the steering rack in the cart. Most of these parts are "Rein" from FCPEuro. Trying to keep the cost down. Also have new tie rods (OE). Which leads to my questions.

Is there a "refresh kit" that is cheeper?

Should I replace the rack and lower steering column (both original to the car but functioning)? Any good sources for the rack?

Have some analysis paralysis going on.

[nthor71783]

Why are you wanting to replace all these parts? Do you have leaks? If not, your best bet to increase the feeling in your steering is to replace the lower steering shaft. The rubber joint that gives away in a crash gets weak and allows play.

[solimans]

Why are you wanting to replace all these parts? Do you have leaks? If not, your best bet to increase the feeling in your steering is to replace the lower steering shaft. The rubber joint that gives away in a crash gets weak and allows play.

Fair question, sir.

The car is now 20 years old and has 200k miles. The steering is all original.

The steering lines and rack are caked with git, grim and grease. So hard to say if it’s currently leaking. Could be engine oil from above. Have several leaks there (future project).

However, I have to put in a reinforced front subframe (cracking at the engine mount), so I figured now is a good time to refresh the steering if I am going to do that.

The rack itself does not appear to be leaking, which is what I assume would normally initiate the install of a new rack. Or a rebuild of the existing rack.


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[KBH22102]

Some PS fluid leaks are inevitable after a while as the fluid flows at about 2000psi. The reservoir is also vented which leads to fluid seepage. The filter for the PS fluid is built into the reservoir, so it is indeed a good idea to change it at some point in addition to performing periodic fluid changes.

I second the recommendation to change the lower steering shaft. If you have that bit of play just off center then you likely have worn out the rubber joint. When I acquired my 01 recently at 87 K miles, there was a persistent whine from the PS system that only went away after I replaced the PS pump in addition to all the lines, reservoir, and fluid. My rack is still original and I have no plans to change that part.

[TommyMaddox]

I replaced, refreshed, or upgraded every single component from the airbag to the tie rods including the entire power steering system. The car is dialed and wonderfully tight now. Used a polyurethane steering shaft coupler as well. Took the whole spindle apart and everything to change out the bearings, blast and refinish, regrease, and then later did it again to replace the steering angle sensor which died shortly after.

Taking the spindle apart sucks a lot. Pretty physically frustrating job with some of the semi circle retaining clips that are under spring pressure.

[solimans]

Some PS fluid leaks are inevitable after a while as the fluid flows at about 2000psi. The reservoir is also vented which leads to fluid seepage. The filter for the PS fluid is built into the reservoir, so it is indeed a good idea to change it at some point in addition to performing periodic fluid changes.

I second the recommendation to change the lower steering shaft. If you have that bit of play just off center then you likely have worn out the rubber joint. When I acquired my 01 recently at 87 K miles, there was a persistent whine from the PS system that only went away after I replaced the PS pump in addition to all the lines, reservoir, and fluid. My rack is still original and I have no plans to change that part.

When you say leaks are inevitable do you mean from the connections on the hoses or from the rack? Both?

Did you need to change your lower steering column? I don’t feel any play.


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[BimmerBreaker]

That's a great question... his post mentions the operating pressure of the system, but in my experience, most the leaks occur on the low pressure lines. Only one line carries the full operating pressure, and thats a hardline with banjo bolts and crush washers at both ends (which rarely- if ever - leak in my experience). The big fat rubber supply line is a low pressure line, those leak all the time. So does the cooler return loop line (these are known for leaking at the crimped end, common to cut off the crimped end and slip a hose over the barbed end of the hardline on the cooler loop)

Would love to find a way to make those lines not leak. I've heard using different style clamps can help. Historically I've used normal hoseclamps and I haven't seen any I've installed start to leak, but I'm pretty sure after enough time they will...

[solimans]

I replaced, refreshed, or upgraded every single component from the airbag to the tie rods including the entire power steering system. The car is dialed and wonderfully tight now. Used a polyurethane steering shaft coupler as well. Took the whole spindle apart and everything to change out the bearings, blast and refinish, regrease, and then later did it again to replace the steering angle sensor which died shortly after.

Taking the spindle apart sucks a lot. Pretty physically frustrating job with some of the semi circle retaining clips that are under spring pressure.

So you rebuilt. I found this kit. Is that something similar to what you used?

GATES Part # 348515

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ga...+seal+kit,7396

On a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being the hardest, what would you rate the rack rebuild job?


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[solimans]

That's a great question... his post mentions the operating pressure of the system, but in my experience, most the leaks occur on the low pressure lines. Only one line carries the full operating pressure, and thats a hardline with banjo bolts and crush washers at both ends (which rarely- if ever - leak in my experience). The big fat rubber supply line is a low pressure line, those leak all the time. So does the cooler return loop line (these are known for leaking at the crimped end, common to cut off the crimped end and slip a hose over the barbed end of the hardline on the cooler loop)

Would love to find a way to make those lines not leak. I've heard using different style clamps can help. Historically I've used normal hoseclamps and I haven't seen any I've installed start to leak, but I'm pretty sure after enough time they will...

Interesting. So the low presure line is an issue. On the cooler line, “cut off the crimped end...” Have a photo of that by chance? Long shot, I know...

So as long as the rack is not leaking you think I should stop at replacing the lines? Or go for a new rack at 200k miles?


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[KBH22102]

When you say leaks are inevitable do you mean from the connections on the hoses or from the rack? Both?

Did you need to change your lower steering column? I don’t feel any play.

These pics are from my initial inspection from my 01 with 87.5k miles. The reservoir, high pressure, and low pressure lines all had fluid residue on them. I could not really tell where the origin was located. The PS was whining badly so when 10x full fluid change didn’t quiet it, I decided to just replace all the lines, reservoir, and the pump. I have driven about 100 miles since I finished the work and everything is dry so I am leaving the rack alone.

I did have a moderate center dead spot initially. The car also had a faulty steering angle sensor when I bought it. Installing a new lower joint and installing a new sensor both require recalibration so I elected to replace both at the same time while it was at the shop.

754547FE-59D2-425A-8B44-DD88C321ED8E.jpg34CF898B-F582-45F1-8FA6-9B39A53B1184.jpg8001D56F-59AC-4F59-905A-9DDF37F31437.jpg

[solimans]

These pics are from my initial inspection from my 01 with 87.5k miles. The reservoir, high pressure, and low pressure lines all had fluid residue on them. I could not really tell where the origin was located. The PS was whining badly so when 10x full fluid change didn’t quiet it, I decided to just replace all the lines, reservoir, and the pump. I have driven about 100 miles since I finished the work and everything is dry so I am leaving the rack alone.

I did have a moderate center dead spot initially. The car also had a faulty steering angle sensor when I bought it. Installing a new lower joint and installing a new sensor both require recalibration so I elected to replace both at the same time while it was at the shop.

754547FE-59D2-425A-8B44-DD88C321ED8E.jpg34CF898B-F582-45F1-8FA6-9B39A53B1184.jpg8001D56F-59AC-4F59-905A-9DDF37F31437.jpg

Thank you, Kelvin. That is pretty much how mine looks now.

Recalibration? That is something I've not thought of as part of this job until you mention it here. Wondering now what that involves?

From what I gather here, and from YouTube, it seems the rack starts to leak after the boots rip and allow dirt in to the rack. I have that working for me. The boots are in good shape.

Right now I'm leaning towards keeping the rack and replacing everything else. The rack so damn expensive.

- - - Updated - - -

Any good after market racks that are recommended? Thats a question for the forum. (I kind of already feel like I know the answer to that)

[TommyMaddox]

So you rebuilt. I found this kit. Is that something similar to what you used?

GATES Part # 348515

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ga...+seal+kit,7396

On a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being the hardest, what would you rate the rack rebuild job?


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I purchased an entirely new rack, meyle hd boots, and tie rods.

[solimans]

Roger that, Tommy. Guessing that means a stock bmw oe rack? Thank you for the feedback.

I’m still stuck in analysis paralysis. very normal for me...


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[TommyMaddox]

Roger that, Tommy. Guessing that means a stock bmw oe rack? Thank you for the feedback.

I’m still stuck in analysis paralysis. very normal for me...


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It was a new rack listed on rock auto. I think I paid around 200.

The meyle hd boots are the only ones I'm a fan of, the other brands I've tried all seem to rapidly break at the seam where the boot diameter changes

[solimans]

Looks like the prices have gone up.

BMW is selling the stock rack (without tie rods) for $760 + 500 core

On fcpeuro the stock rack is $982 + 300 core. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...z3-32131095575

RockAuto has a remanufactured AAE (Atlantic Automotive Enterprises) unit for $260 + 150 core.

I see a unit made by TRW (OE?).

Any of the aftermarket good quality?

[TommyMaddox]

The AAE unit I got had no core charge and was brand new. Beautiful rack that even had the OE cast area for the label. No complaints whatsoever. Also got my pump and other components from there, no issues either.

[solimans]

The AAE unit I got had no core charge and was brand new. Beautiful rack that even had the OE cast area for the label. No complaints whatsoever. Also got my pump and other components from there, no issues either.

Roger that. The search continues


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[solimans]

Found an AAE unit at Rock Auto, new, decent price. Got the lower column from my local bmw dealer and the remainder from FCPEuro.

Thanks for the replies, gents.

I will update after I make some progress on the install...

[TommyMaddox]

Found an AAE unit at Rock Auto, new, decent price. Got the lower column from my local bmw dealer and the remainder from FCPEuro.

Thanks for the replies, gents.

I will update after I make some progress on the install...

If you need any assistance let me know, it seems we are both in Houston area. Think I have some steering and other spare new bits actually.

[solimans]

Much appreciated, Tommy. Wonder how many other houstonians we have here


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[solimans]

Update: the rack I that I ordered looked good but did not fit. The hard lines in the back of the rack protrude too far back, hit the subframe and keep the bolt holes on the rack from lining up.

So now I'm scrambling for a plan B. :/

Here is the rack (AAE 3111n) that i ordered, note to Z3 owners (this rack DID NOT FIT for me): https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=1433899&jsn=8

[TommyMaddox]

Update: the rack I that I ordered looked good but did not fit. The hard lines in the back of the rack protrude too far back, hit the subframe and keep the bolt holes on the rack from lining up.

So now I'm scrambling for a plan B. :/

Here is the rack (AAE 3111n) that i ordered, note to Z3 owners (this rack DID NOT FIT for me): https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=1433899&jsn=8

You can push the lines in a bit, I also have a line bending tool if you want to borrow it. I'm also in Houston. Rack works great for me.

[solimans]

You can push the lines in a bit, I also have a line bending tool if you want to borrow it. I'm also in Houston. Rack works great for me.

this tool or were you thinking something different? https://www.harborfreight.com/tube-b...ers-95782.html

[TommyMaddox]

this tool or were you thinking something different? https://www.harborfreight.com/tube-b...ers-95782.html

Similar concept but a different configuration.

[mpire]

The factory lines use crimps that don't hold tight after a few years and start to weep.

The S54 lines are dramatically more expensive, so you would think they would have upgraded them.

I dug into this a few years back and even tracked down the guys who were involved in the designs if I recall.

Long story short, Randy can braze up an E36 cooler that would be better.

I gave up and went to SS braided PS lines with standard AN fittings on them that I can rebuild on the Press Car.

The reservoir should be replaced on a regular schedule, its $16 for the ATE unit last time I bought one and its the only way to replace the filter.

Good luck!