2002 e39 touring winshield washer not working

[spaceace123]

hi!

My front window washer stopped working a few months ago. I fitted a new pump, and it worked a few days before it went out again. now it's working one in a thousand times, and with a low pressure

*2002 touring
*can't find any blown fuses
*dousen't hear any relay clicking when activating washers
*rear window, headlights and intensive clean is working
*had a water leak a couple of years back. floor in car was flooded. may be related?


Anybody got any tips?

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

If the pump is running, but very weak, pull the fender liner out again, disconnect all the hoses, the wires, unbolt the bottle. pull the pumps out. Inside are small basket weave filters that couple up to the pumps intake, over time debris gets accumulated up inside the bottle, maybe the filters are just clogged. wash them out, I know you can still buy new ones, but when I had this issue, all I has to do was clean them. If the pump is dead, test the wire for 12 volts, have someone hit the washer switch while probing for voltage. If no 12v, then consider the fact that you said you had water inside at some point, under the passenger seat, pull the seat loose to tilt the front of it up, pull the carpet out of the way, there is a white box with wires going into it. pop the lid off, see what the connections look like, there are fusses in there, if the connections got wet, they are probably corroded. disconnect the battery, do one circuit at a time, or do all of them at the same time, clean off all the connections very well, smear dialectric grease in there and button it back up.

[sienayr]

I'm not clear on whether you hear the pump running every time you hit the switch or not. If you don't hear the pump on some occasions and do on others then this doesn't apply. If the pump is activating every time, check the black plastic hoses under the hood. Over time they get brittle and disintegrate from all the heat cycles. Some fluid may be getting through on some squirts.

[E39 Newbie]

^^^^ I had similar happen a couple weeks back. Very weak/nonexistent spray. The original hard lines from 2002 had finally degraded to the point they broke and the water would leak from the break when I hit the wash button.

A complete new hose set is available from BMW and it wasn't all that expensive. Sadly, I also had to replace the nozzles, as one disintegrated upon removal. Sigh.

[StephenVA]

No.	Description	Supp.	Qty	From	Up To	Part Number	Price		Notes
01	Fluid container with level indicator		1	10/2000		61677044898	$52.60
02	Gasket		1			61671378631	$0.80
03	Wash pump for head lamp cleaning device		1	09/1997		67128377430	$69.57
04	Rubber grommet		2			61311369343	$1.93
05	Leveling switch wash container		1			61318360459	$32.46
06	Ventilation valve		1	06/1998		61608255245	$2.43
07	Strainer for washer pump		2	09/1997		61667006063	$2.62
08	Wash pump windshield (Front, Rear, and INTENSIVE)		2/3	09/1997		67128362154	$42.75
09	Grommet		1			61668360138	$0.75

If you have headlamp washers, rear washer (if you have a wagon you got it), windshield washer, and if you have the little bucket under the hood (that is called Intensive) The button on end of your washer stuck turns them on. I forget which does which but what I can tell you is that 5 squirts of the windshield will activate the headlamp washers. Not something you want during the summertime as it sprays everywhere, then drys....See your owners manual for details.... or read Special Intensive Wash Program: Automatic Windshield Washing Function Pictorial DIY https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=475422

Leaks: Little washer under the pump 61667006063 #1 issue
Pump it self leaks #2
Lines popped due to no winter washer fluid being used #3
Rotted lines #4
Large refill hose leaking at tank #5

Step one: Parts ID: http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E39-Sedan Yes, BMW hid it under Vehicle Electrical System all the way at the bottom.
E39's may have two tanks, regular hidden in the RF wheel well (rear towards door) and the other under the hood (Intensive)
The BIG tank has 1-3 pumps one little pump for the front and one big one for the Headlamp washers (if equipped).
IF you have an E39 wagon, there is a second small pump for the rear window wiper/washer.
If you have headlamp washers - There is a BIG pump attached to a large line that runs under the inner fender to the nozzles in the bumper.
Under your hood there is a SMALL washer tank (If equipped) that is a secondary pump that is activated by the switch on the end of your washer stalk.

Hoses - lots of them see images below
Sprayers - two versions (With Intensive - two hoses to the nozzles and without Intensive - one hose to the nozzle)

Step Two: Repair Instructions https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...system/BOAR91k
Pulling the tank: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...system/BHby8ka
Step Three: Everything you ever wanted to know about nozzle alignment, washer pumps, seals, screens, filler pipe, washer hose lines (upper and lower), electrical etc. Pre-winter inspection of my 2002 windshield washer system

TIPS:
Clean jets with a sewing pin as you have wax in them. Blow out with LOW pressure air.
Remove and flush out washer tank with a diluted Clorox mix 1/2 cup to 2 qts)
Each pump has a little screen and gasket - Clean each Great time to replace them. Pump PN 67128362154 (prices range from $6-$56...buy the VDO ones
BMW Parts BMW E39 M5 S62 5.0L Search SiteSearch windshield washer pump - Page 1 - ECS Tuning

Washer Pump Strainer & Gasket: PN 61667006063

Keep your washer nozzles contaminate free
There is a union near the Right hood hinge that leaks and breaks. See blue washer fluid stain marks.

Helpful?

[djb2]

Where did you buy the replacement pump? Many of the aftermarket ones are weak and have a short life. Some are great at a bargain price. You never know which you are going to get.

You can take apart the nozzles to clean them. The old clips have about a 50% chance of breaking and you can't glue acetal, so only do it as a last resort.

You can take apart an old pump, but there isn't anything to fix. You'll find a worn-out seal around the shaft that allowed washer fluid to seep past and a rusted motor.

[StephenVA]

I don't think the OP has figured out if the pumps are working, nor if the lines are clear and connected, nor the nozzles are not blocked by wax, dirt, etc. Way too many E39 have fallen prey to the lack of general maintenance to the point that some owners are too cheap to use washer fluid so all kinds of crap is growing in the tank. The lines are 20 years old, spend the bucks and replace everything under the hood, clean the bucket, replace the seals, use a 12v source and test each pump and re-assemble. Easy, simple, a one time approach for the next 10 years....

But then again he could use fish tank hoses, duct tape, and all manner of coat hanger wire repairs to get it working for awhile. After all, it's an old car....?!!?

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

But it's always easier to start a thread and get everybody tossing in their two cents! Haha! Love the innerwebz! Let's all be spoon fed....

[StephenVA]

I think I have posted that washer info now like 12 times. Thank God I have it as a word doc in my auto files. I person reads it. No one looks for the post ever again
As Snotty said, “spoon feed me or I die” seems to be the 20something approach to every issue....

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

See that? All this joking and farting around, suddenly my washers on the green snot wagon seems to be acting up. I just filled it up last week, now the pumps not blowing nothing. Something to do today! Thanks C-19....

[StephenVA]

Quit sucking on those nozzles!

[spaceace123]

the pump is NOT activated. and I dont hear any relay clicking. but on a rare accasion when the pump is workin, i can hear a relay clicking.

therefore i believe theres something electrical and not something blocking the hoses. I've always used washer fluid. never put water in it.

I'll give it a shot, dismountling the hoses and see if the pump is working then. will also put 12v directly to the pump.

I'll ceep you updated on what i find

[StephenVA]

The washer pumps just die, very few slow down then stop. I installed the VDO ones from ECSTuning and they work fine just like the ones I purchased at huge $$ from the dealer. Quick and simple diagnostic process:
12V Power to the pump? Pump spins- Y/N
Pump spins Fluid flows from port? Y/N
Pump Spins but fluid flows from body of housing leaking on ground? Y/N
Flow at nozzles? Y/N

Kinda like your garden hose...Got water pressure at faucet?, insert next step here. Don't start at the nozzle end.

[BMW4RE]

Well, I just replaced the pump on my '99 528ia. I lost a lot of fluid as the grommet popped when I pulled the pump, which sent it and the fluid to the floor. I figured the fluid was cheap, and it was only fluid. I bought what was sold as VDO, but is marked Continental. I guess they are the same entity these days? The pump fires up and I hear it going but I get no fluid. And it seems rather odd that the lines would break and/or get clogged at the same time the pump died. There was no warning. Pumped fine, then no pump.

Still, after reading this thread, I'll go to the plastic lines to see why they're not coughing up any fluid, so to speak. But I was thinking that maybe the pump lost its prime. Or maybe it never had a prime, with it being new and all?

Cheers all.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Did you ever check those filter strainers on the pump pickup inside the tank?

[StephenVA]

I know I asked this question somewhere...Do you have or DO NOT have intensive washer system? The way you know is that you have a separate little tank under the hood.
The Windshield Washer system and pumps
They work like a sump pump except it pushes it all the way to the hood squirt nozzles. If the tank is full of growing junk and the little seal filters under the pumps are clogged, nothing gets to the lines.
Step 1.
With the pumps installed and you pull/push (Front/rear) on the steering wheel stalk, does the pump spray fluid out with the hose to the rest of the the system off? Y/N?
If yes, trace lines to the first union located at the passenger hood hinge. Disconnect without breaking the connector (good luck) Have fluid under pressure at that location?

Keep moving downstream from the pump to the lines under your dirt filled and ripped hood pad (buy a new pad as they are only $100). Each line splits and runs to each washer squirt nozzle.

Most users find that the pumps are working but the fluid bleeds out at every break. In your case there maybe clogs downstream from the pumps... Cleaned the nozzles at the tips yet? Need a sewing needle....
By the way, this is the easiest DIY repair out on these cars...

[StephenVA]

Continental owns the following companies...Because you asked. Google is your friend....
Aftermarket
ATE - Brake Systems
VDO - Electronics
Uniroyal - Tires
Continental - Tires, wipers, filters, belts/hoses, Batteries, and hard parts
Barum - Tires (EU)
Semperit - Tires (EU)
Galpher - Cheap brakes (EU)
Crypton - Vehicle Workshop Equipment (EU)

[BMW4RE]

Thanks. I'll give those things a check. My E39 does not have headlight washers. Does that mean it doesn't have the intensive setup? I only know of the one tank. Cheers.

BTW: That's a great past stable of Mopars, etc. I had a couple of A-body Barracudas, both '68s. One convertible, one fastback. If either of them would have been a 340 car, I'd probably still have it. Great cars.

[StephenVA]

Congrats on the past ownership. Vague memories are often stomped on when you drive a 40 year old car once again. NVH was pretty high on the A-Bodies even with sound deadner and lots of new parts. One of mine is stil local in another car buddy's garage. All the others crossed the auction blocks some year ago at over $100K after full restorations by others.

If you do not have a wagon, no headlamp washers, and no little washer tank under the hood, then you only have one lone pump in the big tank located in the RF wheel well. Pop off the hose at the pump, hit the washer stalk and see if fluid comes out. YES? Then move on to the long hoses and nozzles. Think of a hose bib on the side of a house. Disconnect the hose, turn on the water. Got flow? Move on to the hose looking for kinks, leaks, holes, etc and the hose end nozzle, PLUGGED? Same principal same diagnostic steps... Simple.

[djb2]

The pumps don't lose prime in any significant way.
The pumps are mounted at the bottom of the reservoir. The impellers are at the bottom of the pump case. They are typically immersed. While the pumps may be able to continue sucking the fluid below the level of the impeller while they are running, you shouldn't expect them to suck the last dregs from the bottom of the reservoir.

[StephenVA]

Some of these cars have reservoir tanks that look like old fish tanks...Green with little algae mixed in....

- - - Updated - - -

I think we have all beaten this one to death now...

[BMW4RE]

Well, by unhappy coincidence, apparently the hose that traverses the lower hood and connects to the nozzles was blown out. Southern Cal. valley crispy. I heard the motor whirring, followed by a puddle forming under the car opposite the reservoir tanks. When I popped the hood water cascaded from under the underhood insulation. Behind it I found a break in the line. Now I've got to figure how little I can get away with replacing. Thanks again for the tips. Cheers.

BTW, my 528ia is the sedan, not touring.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Why only change out the one spot? Why not change out the whole hose and not have to revisit this issue for the next 10-15 years if the planet is still around with us in it, I know I'll still have my E39's....