Doesn't anyone do their own bumper resprays??

[yinzerinmass]

I used the post on rattle can spot repair in the FAQ section to take on this project. I stopped by a local body shop and because the bumper had been already resprayed they wanted me to buy a brand new one. $800 for the new bumper, if you can get one, so I committed to doing it on my own. To me this is the last eyesore taking away from this car's appearance.

There is a local body shop supply to me and the guys working there were pretty nice and forthcoming with some tips. So here she is in progress

I forgot to take a true before picture but when I bought the car it had the typical bumped into a curb damage on the lower chin. The paint was cracking from excessive flex from impact, and you can see the ever too common 2" drywall screw to hold on the front plate mount damage.
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This was the only crack in the bumper. I drilled a hole at the point of the crack to stop it progressing and put a V-groove in it to accept the plastic weld. I initially popped those holes to just used zip ties, but instead of giving up early and doing that I bought a cheap plastic welder and fixed it up properly with the rods included with the kit. Im a little iffy on if it will hold up over time because they don't list the plastic formulation of the rod. Had it not been a holiday weekend Iprobably would have tried to get some fiberfuse rods from the bodyshop supply. I know how this was repaired, and if it fails in the future ill fix it with a better product.
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This pic below is of the inside repair, essentially what the process is here is melt the bumper with the iron, press in an appropriate size of stainless steel screen, then cover with plastic weld melted in to build up the repair. Again, didn't take a good before photo but this was previously repaired with some material with the consistency of dried liquid nails, which obviously failed. Luckily it scraped right off and i was able to move on with my life. ( I can sort of see why the body shop didn't want to fool around with this bumper as how could they know whats lurking under the paint)
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High build primer with some glazing putty to fill in the tiny stuff. I think I have it really close to color now.
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My plan now is to get this sanded to 220, lay down a nice coat of 2K filler primer, sand with 600 and put some color down.
Just figured id share, anyone with some tips/tricks I'm open to encouragement

[Hoyt Clagwell]

I've done some repainting on a couple of motorcycles. The first time I tried it, I used some cheap, off the shelf clear coat. I think the brand is called Color Match. It was not very clear and actually dulled down the black paint I had used. More importantly, for motorcycles at least, gasoline spills quickly took off the gloss. After doing more research, I chose to use a two part polyurethane clear coat called nason. It was waaaaay better in every way. I found it to be very tough and very clear. It sprays up with a great gloss right off the gun but if you have to sand and buff it, it sands well but buffing/polishing takes more time. I think because it is remains tough and flexible it doesn't buff out as easily as a harder more brittle coating. If I ever redo my bumper, and it is on the list, I will probably do two medium wet coats as per the instructions, flat sand it level with 600x and then try to apply one more coat without getting any imperfections. It does self level very well so if the surface is smooth and free of any contamination, a perfect off the gun spray should be possible. Especially for the bumper which is so low to the ground.
If you do use nason, my tips would be, warm it up to say 90 degrees F in water bath. I like the way it flows better when it is warm. Also, it does not like to be sprayed in humid conditions so try and pick a day where the humidity is 60% RH or less.
It does cost about $100.00 CAD for a quart but that will be plenty to do a bumper. Rattle can should be fine for the color coats.

'nice job so far. Be sure and post the completed job.

[zellamay]

I had the color made to match and filled into cans. Cost over $100 for 5 cans. Bought the 2 part clear that you punch the bottom of the can to activate, about $25/can. Well worth it, compared to OTC canned paint.

[yinzerinmass]

Yes, I got the body shop supply to mix me up the OEM color code into cans, that is single stage i think you would call it. The primers I used were a high build from SEM and 2K filler primer cans where you punch the bottom of the can to activate. The clear is 2K as well. All the materials I bought are professional grade. The proximity of the supply shop to my house is key, I don't really have to fool around with parts store level materials.

This is where I'm at tonight. Totally in primer, I did find one or two spots that still need some work where I have a sanding scrape that is showing through the primer.

Am I right to think that I need to be meticulous on the finish of the primer right now as anything is going to become more obvious the shinier it gets?

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[BimmerBreaker]

Yes, I got the body shop supply to mix me up the OEM color code into cans, that is single stage i think you would call it.

You would get better results bringing the whole car to the paint shop. They have tools to check the color of the paint on the car now, since after 20 years it will have faded a bit. Also, being an M that black should be cosmos. Which is not and can not be sprayed as a single stage. It is a metallic color, and needs a clearcoat

Yes the trick to paint is in the prep. Anything you see in primer you will notice more in paint. Once you start painting its a fairly quick process. So take some extra time now to prep it properly and completely

Dont forget to spray the tow hook cover

[yinzerinmass]

Sorry I don't think i described what I picked up color wise I guess its not what is referred to as single stage. I definitely am going to put clearcoat on it. What I meant was the color component isn't in a two part, catalyst type of can, I don't think they are sold that way in rattle cans

My primer and clear coat have the punch bottom can that releases the catalyst into the paint.

Good point with the scanner that the paint supply might have, Ill see how this goes with what I have on hand now. It's not like I didn't grind off some previous sins already.

If it sucks or doesn't look right its just extra work to take it off and start over.

[yinzerinmass]

Here's where I am after 4 cans of base coat, and its still not 100% covered. I took a bright light and shined it over the bumper to check my work. Its very good so far but some edges and hard to reach areas are coming through a little light. I felt like it would have been a shame to clear it right now and regret that decision so I'll get another can today. Do you guys with any experience feel like that green is a tough color for coverage. Honestly I was freaked out a little when I started at how light it was until the paint really building up.

I did have a couple setbacks where I found the new paint started lifting the lower layers that were feathered out, so sanded those defects out and brought the color back up. The trick there is to use super light coats until you get whatever substrate is there covered up as the solvents in a heavier coat attack the feathered edge before they can evaporate out of the new paint.

Compared to the busted up chin on this bumper had before Its in for a huge improvement.
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IMG_2214.jpg Bimmerbreaker, I didn't forget the tow hook cover . I opted to make some buttons to cover the original plate holes in case I decide against the tow hook plate mount. Im in Massachusetts where they require a front tag.

After some of the posts on here with peoples awesome shops, Im about to start a "hey a crummy garage is better than no garage" post. Don't be jealous, yes someone did lay an asphalt floor in here.

[Pat Gautier]

I've done my lower front bumper twice. The first time required some repiairs first and came out great. Second time was a refresh and I got cocky and rushed it. It shows. Third attempt probably next year. Love that 2k clear, though. Great results out of a can.

[cyberman]

It looks like the car is black, regardless, you may want to experiment with Plasti-Dip which provides a durable but peel-able solution and it may hide some imperfections in the bodywork. It's easily reversible if you don't like it and can last longer than you'd think. Their website has some interesting colors now and they offer a gloss clearcoat if you want it. Just an idea.

[yinzerinmass]

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Sprayed one last coat of color yesterday afternoon, waited a couple hours then clearcoated. The last coat of color made all the difference, the metallic really started to come through and well, the clear speaks for itself. Should be back on the car this afternoon after work.

Surprise...it's oxford green metallic BMW 430

[yinzerinmass]

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OK well there it is. It could use buffed out a little bit but I wouldn't say its necessary. I'm really happy with how this turned out, especially with this being the first time I've painted something (on a car) this large. I painted a couple buttons to put in those license plate holes and ordered the side mount and I'm going to use that.

Here's the materials list in case any one is interested, This job cost me a little over $300 to do. I'm new at painting so I'm sure that someone could be more efficient with the materials.

Bondo Body filler
Glazing putty (I forget the brand, it came from the body shop supply)
Harbor Freight Plastic welder
DupliColor Adhesion promoter (1can)
SEM High Build Primer (1can)
Kemperle 2k filler primer (1can)
SEM Guide coat (1can)
Custom Fill Spray Cans filled with Chromabase paint (5 cans) color matched using paint code BMW430
Kemperle 2k clearcoat (2cans)
Sandpaper
Gray and Red scuff pads
Tack Rags
SEM paint prep wax and grease remover spray (1 can)
3m activated carbon Paint respirator

[Dakar Ole]

Excellent work!
Just some notes: Next time shoot the clear much sooner than you did to promote adhesion.
Buy some new bumper turn signals soon because the prices are going up. Since I bought a pair a couple
weeks ago the seller has upped his price by ten bucks.

[IndianaRoadster]

Excellent work!
Just some notes: Next time shoot the clear much sooner than you did to promote adhesion.
Buy some new bumper turn signals soon because the prices are going up. Since I bought a pair a couple
weeks ago the seller has upped his price by ten bucks.

Where did you get your bumper turn signals from?

[Dakar Ole]

Where did you get your bumper turn signals from?

Bought from a guy in Lithuania on der bay. Solid original manufacturing run pieces.

[yinzerinmass]

Where did you get your bumper turn signals from?

Ecstuning looks like they offer this part for about $50 says ships in 2 days.

Excellent work!
Just some notes: Next time shoot the clear much sooner than you did to promote adhesion.
Buy some new bumper turn signals soon because the prices are going up. Since I bought a pair a couple
weeks ago the seller has upped his price by ten bucks.

Thanks!

[amancuso]

Came out great. I thought M Roadsters were Fern Green, not Oxford. You learn something new every day!

[SteveG66]

Wow, turned out great, almost makes me want to do mine which need it bad!!! Maybe over the winter.... Great job!!!

[s8ilver]

I painted mirrors, but front bumper could use a respray due to rock chips. I have a paint shop 1/2 block away though, so it's convenient to just walk the bumper there.

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[KeysCoupe]

My 2.8 Coupe was Boston Green, and the later years were Oxford Green, Coupe or Roady.
-Donny

[BimmerBreaker]

Came out great. I thought M Roadsters were Fern Green, not Oxford. You learn something new every day!

Fern Green would be sweet on the Z3... Lighter than Oxford by a few shades

[LannVouivre]

That came out wonderful! Mine is... In really horrible shape. The body shop that repaired it after the accident chose to refurbish the bumper, which was a huge mistake. The paint is flaking off in a lot of places, and the hood is getting pretty chipped up... I'm probably going to just replace the bumper, when I can afford to buy one without guilt.

[BladeRunner919]

That came out wonderful! Mine is... In really horrible shape. The body shop that repaired it after the accident chose to refurbish the bumper, which was a huge mistake. The paint is flaking off in a lot of places, and the hood is getting pretty chipped up... I'm probably going to just replace the bumper, when I can afford to buy one without guilt.

Sounds like they didn't paint it properly - painting a refurbished bumper and a new one is the same deal, so you'd probably just have had a new bumper with flaking paint!

[LannVouivre]

Sounds like they didn't paint it properly - painting a refurbished bumper and a new one is the same deal, so you'd probably just have had a new bumper with flaking paint!

I believe that they rushed the prep work and painting on the bumper to try to recoup several hours of resurfacing it; they had not wanted to replace it after having said it was fine to reuse. The hood, which they had replaced, doesn't have nearly as many flaws, although it is heavily chipped. Sigh... I wish I had just had the Ford place do it.

[fallguy]

I smacked up my Yaris. Got a new after market front bumper for 60$ (still can’t believe how cheap it was) and had a small body shop spray just the bumper for 100$.

The car is black so is was easy to match.

[TexaZ3]

It did turned out good, needs a bit of buffing to get rid of the orange peel. But for the amount of work that you put in and $300 in supplies, I'd just take it to a body shop and have it professionally done. I have repainted several bumpers for less than $300.