I've decided to splash some paint on the ol girl.
She is a 95 525 I've had for a few years. When I bought the car the paint looked great, but it was a poor respray. Possibly a Macco job that didn't last a year.
Due to the high cost of standard paint and clear I will be painting it with a single stage urethane from TCP global.
$180
https://tcpglobal.com/products/rsp-a...31761898078272
$100
T rex epoxy sealer
$65
Picked up a sata Jet sprayer from pawn shop
$40
matco sander (pawn shop but thinking it's working the compressor to hard. Buying a HF electric sander tomorrow)
$114
Ebay front bumper cover
I've already repaired the cracked rear bumper with quick steelepoxy stick on the back and bondo plastic bond epoxy on the front. The quick steel was used as a back up for increased strength.
I'm on the first day of sanding and I have a lot of clear coat failure to feather out.
Last edited by Sleepyhead97; 05-24-2020 at 10:14 PM.
Clear coat failure#1
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Clear coat failure #2
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Sata Jet gun, looks real clean. Pawn shop had a sale.
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Hood sanded with 180
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Last edited by Sleepyhead97; 05-24-2020 at 10:09 PM.
Day 2 of sanding.
I also removed one side skirt (which was terrifying--plastic etc). Recruited my kids to help me sand some more, the little ones sanded the door handles, no big deal .
See Video for a walk around.
I used finishing pads from Harbor freight, and I put 180 grit on the pad and the adhesive stuck just fine for hand sanding. BTW, most of the car was hand sanded. The power sanders just did not have the coverage or control hand sanding. It has gone quicker than I would have throught but yes it took some work to get here.
Any recommendations on how to remove all this gunk that is on trunk from the emblem?
if you have a lot of double sided tape and other adhesive stuck to you vehicle get a couple eraser wheels and a power drill itll come right off without damaging the panel behind it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085HNZNYX...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Thanks for the support and recommendations. The eraser wheel idea is neat.
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Paint is a very close match! This is a standard generic color from TCP
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Bumper arrived!
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Sealer arrived!
Last edited by Sleepyhead97; 05-28-2020 at 10:37 PM.
sunroof so I can get a better coat of paint on it remove the seal on all that so I get a cleaner look but. Once the sunroof was off the car you could see the damage to the sunroof rails need to know if you just replace these where I can get the best price and should I just put epoxy on it and go
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Last edited by Sleepyhead97; 06-04-2020 at 06:40 PM.
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He he he
This is a temporary fix, since my main goal is painting, not fixing everything that is broken on this 25 year old car. Though I am starting to think of a new name for the car.... how does "Epoxy Queen" sound.
__
So, if anyone embarks on this, just realize this is alot of work! I feel I am about 70% ready for paint. I have to strip the sunroof because the paint is just garbage. The roof is giving me pause as well because the previous paint was... garbage. It seems to peel off easier than on other parts of the car and it concerns me. I have multiple layers of paint on the roof showing, and I am attempting to feather it all out though. Hope I dont have to strip the roof down...
The Front bumper was sprayed from aftermarket factory with a "solvent" based primer and it gums up the paper really fast. I am thinking I will need to wet sand it to get it ready for paint.
Last edited by Sleepyhead97; 06-04-2020 at 08:30 PM.
If the paint is failing like yours I would go down to metal or at least the primer coat. Shoot it with epoxy wet sand it out then paint. You don't want your new paint coming up because the old crap under is failing. Grab some 80 grit and take it down with the DA. Not sure what you have for spray equipment but single stage metallic will be a challenge if this is your first rodeo. The base clear is much more forgiving with metallics. You can buy that sunroof part its not cheap though. Check all the other bits and parts too they like to crack. YOu may want a bigger compressor too the constantly falling air pressure will be a bitch to control your spray pattern and not stripe the flake.
Hello thanks for your reply. I want to avoid sanding this down to metal but on the top I think you could use more attention. The paint on the car is it adhered pretty well nd so is the clear coat, except where it has failed. I Read up on this and I've also spoke to my brother who paints Harley Davidsons and he was telling me but you don't have to go to metal. As long as the paint is adhered well. My only concern is the top. All other panels the paint is strong.
One other tip is pull the speakers out of the kick panels and the doors. The magnets will print through on the metalic flake. What is the concern with going to metal? Your primer is DTM or direct to metal. You are correct you can go over old paint but again if it has started to fail I would be leary it can also lead to print through. Its probably worth at least doing on the top surfaces with the failed clearcoat.
Wow great tip on the speakers! Going to metal is difficult with my current Sanders. I have a DA sander, Matco, it drains the compressor and the compressor can only push 60 PSI constantly to it. Therefore doesn't have the power to really sand.
Do you have a recommendation for a sub $100 sander for this project. Ive tried the Harbor Freight da palm sander it's no good. Thinking I might have to go with a bigger random orbital sander that has the power to push through the paint.
My goal on this is keeping the cost down while producing a good paint job. I think you are right I will have to add the very least sand the top of the cab down.
The hood and trunk areas I have very strong paint and I feel completely comfortable priming over that.
Last edited by Sleepyhead97; 06-05-2020 at 09:43 AM.
The problem isn't your sander its your compressor. So i would go electric. The only bad thing is the pad is a little soft on this one but it works pretty ok. you can add a shop vac to the back of it and keep the dust down just make sure your hose is clean you dont want to be rubbing all the nasty crap into your surface. https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-3...6423/311528803 The other downside it is it uses 5 inch disks for hogging down to metal I have an 8inch but I dont know if you will find that in electric.
The paint on your bumper likely has a flex additive so it doesnt crack. If you sand through and touch the bumper hit it with some of this. https://www.amazon.com/Bulldog-Adhes.../dp/B00397QK4G You may want to add a flex additive to your paint and primer on the bumpers.
Neat stuff and very ambitious! Looking forward to watching progress.
if your trying to paint this yourself id go to a place like sherwin williams autopaint store and just tell them what you're doing and they'll get you everything you need as well as mix the color you are shooting because you'll need a flex additive for the bumpers as well as an adhesion promoter so that you dont have issues down the road with peeling paint and what not.
Citristrip is a 100% great product. Stripped most of the paint off sunroof in one application. I covered it last night in a medium coat then sealed it with a trashbag-leftovernight. Checked it @ noon today and 80% was stripped. Added a bit more (seemed like the OEM paint stuck in some places) and covered till 5 pm today and it looked pretty nice.
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All clean
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Worked on top again, seems like only the aftermarket paint is giving me pause. It is coming off though, just abit more work.
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Made 2 saddlehorse to hold front and back bumpers. This was made out of scrap wood I had around.
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Last edited by Sleepyhead97; 06-05-2020 at 10:24 PM.
Good call on that dewalt sander, and you are right about the I have a harbor freight sander that is nearly identical to that one. It came with an 80 grit pad, and just for giggles I used it, worked wonders. To this point I had used 180grit (didn't have enough bite I guess).
Thanks for the comment on the Hose! First thing I did was wipe it down with a rag and acetone, it was gross.
- - - Updated - - -
Thank you for bringing this up, Ill look into it
I appreciate it! I'm not claiming to be an expert, but I am trying. If nothing else, I am teaching my kids a few things here and there.
I'm feeling pretty good with what I bought so far, but I had no idea Sherwin Williams made automotive paint. I checked out a local paint store, English Paint and Supply-they were very nice, but the prices are more for insurance jobs--everything was literally double what I could get online. Its a shame.
The tcp stuff is pretty good they make lots of paint that gets sold under other brands. Make sure you properly rinse and neutralize after using that stripper. They can cause adhesion issues even worse if you don't end up going all the way to metal. Also don't use it on things that are not metal. I had a friend with a corvette someone tried to strip a fender and could never get it hold paint without cracking.
A few other things that come to mind you may want to check what tip is in your spray gun. With metallic and primer both can be rather picky and have different requirements.
I would also give your primer a good week or so to cure and shrink up then start to block sand it out with 320. You don't want your sanding scratches to show through. I am sure I will think of more but ill follow along.
Thanks froggy
Just an update. Thought I was almost ready to prime..till this.
Hole
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I used 50/50 vinegar water to deactivate any rust. Minimal rust. Used water and baking soda to deactivate vinegar
Used epoxy steel stick to fill whole. Did not have welder and bondo is weaker
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Previous work put bondo on paint and it was different color than my bondo so I removed it all and skimmed it again.
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I've sanded car with 180 once and 320 twice. Getting closer to paint
Last edited by Sleepyhead97; 06-14-2020 at 11:03 PM.
Is that a hole punched in the door? To be honest id Just drop the $50 at the junk yard and get a new door if you dont want to weld in some metal. Your repair will show through in the final paint. Be careful with with Vinegar and soda on your metal both cause adhesion issues. Id scrub the shit out of that area with some purple power and a scotch brite and rinse a ton. Do this at least 3 times. You are doing all this work you really dont want to have to look at that spot for the rest of the time you own the car over a cheap door. I would pull that trim off the bottom of the door Ill bet you a 6er of cheap beer there is some rust to clean up too. Really trying to help here not shit all over your project. I know it sucks but taking the extra time will really pay off in the end. Nothing sucks more than having your nice paint job have rust bubble or bondo pop loose.
You might find you have pin holes in that pink stuff you might want some of this to do a final skim. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
if you work on getting you filler on smoother it will save you some sanding.
Yea I understand you have good intentions i appreciate the feedback. I agree a new door or welding it is best, no argument here. There was no rust anuwhere else. Just a small dot of it on the inside panel where hole was.
We have to adapt to what is in front of us and compromise when we have to. If nothing else atleast it will be better than it was
as long as you mixing technique is on point you wont get pin holes. they normally start to appear if you mix air into the body filler or you use to much hardener but if you do get them don't worry they sell a glaze made specifically for pin holes it comes in a metal tube just wipe it on let it dry and sand them away.
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