EML nightmare on E32 735 + follow up

[BimmerMabb]

Hello everyone
My name is Laurent and I own a Belgian 735I originally manual and it is still manual.

The car is from first owner and has 170K kms.

I have it for two years now and it is equiped with EML unfortunately. Here is the story.

When I just acquired it, I found out that the EML light didn’t work. The throttle body only opened for 1/3. I solved the problem by bridging it on the rear of the cluster and it worked how it needed to. Throttle opened completely and engine was responsive.

A while later I discovered that my Crash alarm geber was broken. Bizarre behavior of main beam as well as the hazard lights. Meanwhile EML worked fine.

Having tested several other CAG relats, only one made it work again. Also here my first question: is it normal I had to try several ones? Also keep in mind that the original one was/is perfectly fine inside. No bad solder and tested with multimeter.

At this stage, again, everything worked fine. Cluster worked perfectly etc...

Meanwhile occasionally, both my speedo and econometer stopped working. After a while or after riding on bumps, it jumped back on and worked again. A bit bizarre. I took apart the speed sensor in the diff and cleaned it. Still the same problem, but EML worked fine.

At this moment another problem: when car running, even when driving, both charging and handbrake light are dimly lighting. Not as if the handbrake or charge lamp is on as it has to be, not bright, very dim. The higher the revs, less dim, but never really out.

Now, I have the problem that EML light is PERMANENTLY on. Even when contact is off. It even drains the battery totally flat. So there are in total 4 problems, the fourth I forgot to mention, and will be mentioned hereunder.


1) EML light constantly on. Also when engine runs. Throttle works and opens 100%.

2) Both charge lamp and handbrake lamp are very dim lit. Becomes dimmer when I rev it or drive it, but never both lamps are out.

3) When I turn off ASC, the orange ASC lamp on the dash DOESN’T light up!!!

4) tank gauge readings are wrong and I have random levels of litres of fuel according to the gauge. Once I supposedly have 60 liters, a bit later 20 litres. Tank sender unit is fine.

5) random fallout of both speedo and econometer.

6) Wondering if the crash alarm geber has something to do with it.


Other clarifications:

1) instrument cluster looks good.
2) checked all the contacts, and it is okay.
3) already disconnected battery etc, no change.
4) Battery is good.
5) Alternator is good and gives enough voltage and amperage.
6) ABS sensors are clean.
7) Wheels are original Style 5 15 inch.
8) Brake pads and discs are the correct and good ones.
9) Chip in the cluster was never removed. Seal is still there!

10) Shogun, I wanted to send you a private message but was unable to do so. I am desperate with this car. Even at BMW they cannot help me.
Yes, the DK motor is perfectly fine.
Yes, swapped out already both the Motronic as well as the DME unit. No change.

Many many thanks.... Would love to have some real advise...

[shogun]

wow, that is a lot, I will start and hopefully some other members with M30 + EML knowledge will chime in to help.

crash alarm Geber there was a bad production series, read here https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...sh+alarm+geber
What production month and year is the car?

"Meanwhile occasionally, both my speedo and econometer stopped working. After a while or after riding on bumps, it jumped back on and worked again. A bit bizarre. I took apart the speed sensor in the diff and cleaned it. Still the same problem, but EML worked fine."
Maybe the plugs in the back of the cluster are not tight, but I assume, it needs new capacitors see Johan's site http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/dash...dash_caps.html
I had once a similar problem and we had to resolder the pins here http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/569942/

"At this moment another problem: when car running, even when driving, both charging and handbrake light are dimly lighting. Not as if the handbrake or charge lamp is on as it has to be, not bright, very dim. The higher the revs, less dim, but never really out."
Might be same problem, capacitors, I would first install new capacitors or get another used instrument cluster, on German Ebay there are cheap ones to find.

In case you also understand German language, maybe you also post on the 7-forum in the E32 section, there are some members with good technical know how https://www.7-forum.com/

Shogun, I wanted to send you a private message but was unable to do so.

Technical problems always post in the forum, all can read it and all can help. Also there are members here on the forum which know the M30 engine much better than I do.

[BimmerMabb]

Dear Shogun,

Thanks for your answer! It is a manual 1989 car for the Belgian market. Produced May 1989.

At this moment, the CAG module that is on the car works all right.

Are you quite sure it is due to the capacitors or can it still be something else? Have you ever had comparable cluster problems?

I was wondering this: I see e34 and e32 cars that are NON EML cars, where there is EML marked on the dash but obviously it doesn’t light up since it is not an EML car. However, I was wondering, that if I plug a non EML cluster in the car, that it will have the EML lighting up? Or is it really a specific cluster that I need?

Unfortunately I understand a bit of German, but not enough. There must have been people out there, with a 750 for example, who encountered an always on EML light as well, no?

And where can I find a cluster? Will a 750 cluster work as well? Difference with auto or manual cluster?

Thanks again!

[Smoky540i]

I'll caveat this with the statement that I'm not that knowledgeable about the E32, but could you just try another cluster and see what that does? It sounds like a lot of the issues to back to the cluster.

[cirrusblau]

Have you done an alternator voltage reading? Do Test #9 in the OBC. Low voltage can sometimes do some strange things. Check also your grounds (especially on the right side under the airbox) and fusible link.

[BimmerMabb]

I did. Everything should be okay. I can recheck but normally all is good.

- - - Updated - - -

I forgot to reply and I just answerend without replying directly.
I have no spare cluster. When I look up the part numbers I see there is either the IC and then there is the surrounding holder. When I looked for the IC BMW part number on Ebay, no go... no results.

Is this the correct part number? I really can’t find one for an affordable price...
62118364750

- - - Updated - - -

Voltage is good.. it might be cluster related but everything looks fine. I cannot find another cluster when I look on Ebay!

[BimmerMabb]

Can anyone help me in order to find the correct integrated circuit plate for the dashboard cluster?

Does it have to be EML specific, or, are all the circuit numbers ready to be connected to an EML car?

When I look up the part number, this is what I get.
Can I use one of the "supersedes" parts? Or can't I? What to do? I really don't know where to start..
62118364750

AT-conductor plate



Supersedes:

62118351576(01/01/1990 — 02/01/1995), Exchangeable retrospectively62111388806(03/01/1989 — 03/03/1992), Exchangeable retrospectively62111390082(10/15/1988 — 10/12/1994), Exchangeable retrospectively62111390332(04/01/1988 — 11/08/1988), Exchangeable retrospectively62111388610(09/01/1987 — 03/17/1989), Exchangeable retrospectively62111382963(06/01/1987 — 03/17/1988), Exchangeable retrospectively62111388045(02/02/1987 — 05/11/1987), Exchangeable retrospectively62111379984(06/01/1986 — 05/11/1987)
Part 62118364750 was found on the following vehicles:

• 5' E34   (03/1987 — 01/1996)
• 7' E32   (10/1985 — 03/1994)

[shogun]

good point by cirrusblau, check the voltage, you can test that on the OBC with test 9 http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/obc_...c_secrets.html maybe the problems are caused by too low voltage and you need a new voltage regulator for the alternator.
yes, you can use one of the 'supersedes' parts. AT parts means AusTausch in German = reconditioned/remanufactured in exchange against core. There are also shops in Germany which repair clusters, the most trusted on the German 7 forum is M8-Enzo in Werne, not far from Belgium, send it to him, he can repair it https://www.facebook.com/notes/repar...5371672182441/
https://www.yelp.de/biz/m8-enzo-werne Tell him I sent you, he knows me since many years.
One repair shop which is said to know the E32 is this one https://hwcartech-ense.de/ the owner also has an E32 and is member of the German 7-forum. HW-Cartech, Am Ohrt 12, 59469 Ense-Höingen, not so far from Dortmund in Sauerland near (Lake) Moehnetalsperre, that is not too far to Belgium. Maybe you ask there if they can fix the far for you.

If you go to the spare parts catalog with your VIN DB14079 and you have a part number, there is always mentioned if the part is replaceable or not, for example when I use the p/n with end no. 750 this comes up http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/62118364750 ,and when you click on the i sign, there is more info, Conductor plate with cover plate 62 11 8 351 576, Delivery discontinued by the factory, Production Jan '90 - Feb '95, Exchangeable retrospectively,Old partnumber 62 11 1 388 806 Reconditioned partnumber 62 11 8 364 750 etc
The instrument clusters all have the EML light function, in cars without EML system just the bulb is not installed. So install a bulb. If you want to buy a used one: Best is you find a cluster which has the same speed indication, some have 260 km scales etc, and the same tank gauge, because there were different tank sizes. Your car is built May 1989, see here which backplate cluster you have . http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/299960/299960.html
based on that you have a white backplate cluster, so if you buy a used one with white backplate, you can change the chip on the back side of your old cluster into the new one and you have the correct VIN etc.
Programa clearly says which part no. it is and which are compatible. https://www.programainc.com/item_det...sf=62118364750
OE Part Number 62 11 8 364 750, 62118364750, Interchange Part Numbers 62 11 1 388 757, 62111388757, 62 11 1 388 801, 62111388801, 62 11 1 388 801 9, 621113888019, 62 11 8 351 576, 62118351576
Find someone in Belgium or Germany which is expert on this model which can help to fix the car, there must be a shop nearby you or in Germany with experience in these old.
At least try to find a shop or someone which can read fault codes on these old cars, when you have the fault codes, you can start from there and replace only items which need to be replaced and no trial and error replacement.

[RobertRO]

I believe it may be worth considering a conversion to cable throttle.

You need to take some time to check exactly what you need for the conversion.
I recommend to start by carefully checking the wiring differences between EML and thorttle cable, by downloading the applicable wiring diagram at the link below:
https://bimmertips.com/bmw-e32-wirin...-pdf-download/
Also, check https://www.realoem.com/ for parts that are different between the two systems.

I suppose that you have to source (e.g. from a scrape yard, or German ebay-kleinanzeigen) the accelerator pedal, the throttle cable, the throttle body (together with its TPS - throttle body switch), and the engine wire harness. Note that the E34 535i is also a good source for the parts.
I assume that the Motronic ECU is the same for both EML and cable throttle cars - but check.

This may set you back a few hundrends of Euros for the parts, and a weekend of work. But then you end up with the most reliable throttle system for the E32 735i.

[BimmerMabb]

All right, so to make things clear, I am not considering to swap to cable throttle. That is not solving the problem in my honest opinion.

Shogun, how can I remove the circuit board apart from the white plastic base? I have it out of the car and I can confirm that I have a white baseplate. I want to check the other side of the conductor plate, but I think the conductor plate is "pressed" in the white backing plate? How do people have the conductor plate apart from the base plate?

Another question: how can I simply put "bulbs" on a non EML cluster whereas the "bulbs" for the EML are totally different form all the other ones in the fact that those are leds, and not bulbs? I am sorry but it is nearly impossible that "there is simply no led" in the circuit board. It is not a story of simply plugging the old leds back in. Have you ever seen baseplates without the leds? I might think that all the baseplates have the EML led, and that it is the car harness that gives signal to the EML or not.
Which one do you rather suggest: M8 Enzo or the HW Cartech?

Because I haven't read an answer on the fact that the EML light is CONSTANTLY on when there is power. I found out that it remains on with ONLY the brown plug plugged in. What could this mean? Could this be solved by replacing the 3 capacitors or might there be something else the problem?

Many thanks!

[shogun]

Did you check the voltage already?
Normally the EML light should come on for some seconds and then disappear http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/eml_bulb/eml_bulb.html
see user manual page 26 http://www.e38.org/e32/E32_1992_Owne..._optimised.pdf there it says, if the light remains on or comes again on during a journey, there is a system malfunction. As you have problems with EM systemL, this should be o.k. I assume
if you want to have the cluster repaired/checked, send it to M8 enzo without trying to disassemble it, he is the specialist for clusters and displays. Or buy a used cluster just for testing, swap the new cluster in and see if there are changes. Any E32 cluster will work for this test with white or blue back, best is you find a white one as they the code plug can be swapped.
If you want to remove the board, see here http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Mainte...Capacitors.htm and my below link with the youtube.
You can try to replace the capacitors and see if that solves the problem. The brown plug pinout is here and there you can see that you get to the cluster 12V on pin 3 and 14 in 12 Volt R http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/date...legung-x17.pdf Red 12- volt switched power. I assume that it is normal that now it is always on with ignition on, but I have never tried to test this with only the brown plug connected to the cluster.
all pinouts of the cluster plugs here http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/s-stecker-kombi.htm
Here you see an E34 cluster and that also has EML display https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3MjNCDxD48 and there you can see also outside on the back EML sign. It also shows how to disassemble the complete cluster. 2 hardwired bulbs is used in the instrument cluster board.
Cluster fixing is part of your efforts to fix the problem, fix one thing, then go to the next one.
EML is very complex https://www.europeantransmissions.co...MW/EML-BMW.pdf easiest would be if you find a shop with the correct old software to read faults.

[BimmerMabb]

Dear Shogun

I found that the cluster I have in my car is the 6211 8364 750. When I check Realoem, there is stated supersedes, and then there is a whole list. The first of that list is the 6211 1388 806. You told me I can use one of these under the supersedes section, so if that is correct, I can use the 806 cluster. Well, I found a 806 cluster, but it is a 80 liter cluster and only goes to 240 km/h. This means I CANNOT use it... So, the information was not correct...???? I think I can only use a cluster ending with 750....????

To make things clear, EML light is PERMANENTLY on, not only when contact on. It never goes out anymore.

However, last year I did the reparation because the EML NEVER went on and made the throttle being stuck at 1/3 opening maximum. I then did the fixing job with soldering the wire on the cluster and all was okay. Now, the problem is that EML is permanently on all of a sudden without having done anything. And also, the throttle opens up to only 1/3.

Why would I have to replace the capacitors? As far as I have read, it is not connected to an EML problem?

Can I contact M8 in English?

[shogun]

you misunderstood, that number is not the complete cluster but just the BMW Instrument Cluster Printed Circuit Board OE Part Number 62118364750, https://www.programainc.com/item_det...sf=62118364750
= the backplate of the complete cluster, the front with the gauges has different numbers and is a separate item. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...BMW-735i&mg=62
So you can use the backplate only and replace it with the one from your complete cluster, if you want. All items on the cluster have separate item numbers https://www.realoem.com/bmw/partxref...=on&showeur=on
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/partxref?q=62118351576

To make things clear, EML light is PERMANENTLY on, not only when contact on. It never goes out anymore.

I did not experience such a problem so far. Even with ignition off and key out? Maybe something went wrong in the cluster when repairing DIY or after repair. That the thottle only opens partly now if the effect of the limpmode = limp home mode because the EML light is on. EML light on = limpmode. Before in the post I gave you the pinout of the cluster pins, here is the ETM by built year, http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e32/ check the wiring diagrams

Why would I have to replace the capacitors? As far as I have read, it is not connected to an EML problem?

as mentioned before, replacing the capacitors could help or not, same with the circuit board which could be defective, but bad capacitors have an effect on the cluster, that is a fact , quote: Problem: broken capacitors in the instrument cluster can be the cause of the instrument cluster acting like its haunted.
http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/dash...dash_caps.html That is just my proposal, do whatever you decide to be best for you.

Can I contact M8 in English?

I do not know, I correspond with him in German language. Try in English.
But as you mentioned that you already worked on the cluster last year and repaired the EML lights because the EML lights never came on, he might refuse to work on the cluster, he always mentions people should not touch the defective part and try to repair DIY.

I repeat again: easiest would be if you find a shop with the correct old software to read faults. When you have the fault codes, it is easier to repair based on those codes.

[BimmerMabb]

As you know Shogun, nobody knows the problems with the EML cars. It is like hell.

I bought the car too expensive without knowing what I know by now on EML sh*t.

Car is for sale as is. I am done with it.

[shogun]

well, I would not say so that nobody knows the problems with EML cars. So far I have solved all problems within the last 30 years with EML on my and friends cars with EML, mainly E32 with M70 and Alpina B12. But it needs a systematic approach to check, to study a long time the complete system, read and read and study all the system descriptions like these
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1246335/
https://www.europeantransmissions.co...MW/EML-BMW.pdf
http://bmwe32.masscom.net/moswald/docs/BMWv12manual.pdf
you need patience, study the system, make a plan to systematically find the problem, or get a good (fitting for the old system software) fault code reader or find a shop which knows these systems.

[BimmerMabb]

Dear Shogun,

Here I want to write a follow-up. As already stated in the title, the last week has been a true nightmare.
This is what was done to the car:

A spare baseplate was installed and thus a totally working cluster was just installed by me. The EML light comes on contact on. Afterwards, there is absolutely no problem at all. The EML LEDS because it is not bulbs, turn off and the throttle response is present. Engine runs as it should.

However, there are still two major problems.

1) Both the parking brake light and the alternator bulb are dimly lit. I have been doing some research and there might perhaps be an aissue with the alternator. However, I would like to check this with several methods. The voltmeter and my multimeter are giving 12,8 V steady, but that stays the same even when the blikners are on, together with all the lights inside, outside, and the foglights both front and rear on. I was looking for the voltage test with the OBC, but didn't manage to find that.

2) The alarm light at the center airvent on top of the dashboard is permanently on. I think this means that there is perhaps a problem with the autonomous battery of the alarm central? Where is this located? I would want the remove the relay and/or fuse for the alarm. How can this be solved? Honestly, if only the central locking system works, that is fine to me.

3) Sometimes, my intermittent wipers are uncontrollable. Sometimes it is fine for more than an hour, sometimes, they show up acting weird and are in intermittent. Yes, I already tried different modules under the lefthand side of the rear seat, but to no avail. All connections are good, all relays work fine. Check control works perfectly.

4) When I turn off the ASC button on the center console, no ASC light turns on at the cluster. Yes, the bulb is okay, double checked and changed with bulbs that were working on other posts on the electric baseplate.


Many thanks!

[BimmerMabb]

Hello everyone,

Dear Shogun,

Here I want to write a follow-up. As already stated in the title, the last week has been a true nightmare.
This is what was done to the car:

A spare baseplate was installed and thus a totally working cluster was just installed by me. The EML light comes on contact on. Afterwards, there is absolutely no problem at all. The EML LEDS because it is not bulbs, turn off and the throttle response is present. Engine runs as it should.

However, there are still 4 major problems.

1) Both the parking brake light and the alternator bulb are dimly lit. I have been doing some research and there might perhaps be an aissue with the alternator. However, I would like to check this with several methods. The voltmeter and my multimeter are giving 12,8 V steady, but that stays the same even when the blikners are on, together with all the lights inside, outside, and the foglights both front and rear on. I was looking for the voltage test with the OBC, but didn't manage to find that.

2) The alarm light at the center airvent on top of the dashboard is permanently on. I think this means that there is perhaps a problem with the autonomous battery of the alarm central? Where is this located? I would want the remove the relay and/or fuse for the alarm. How can this be solved? Honestly, if only the central locking system works, that is fine to me.

3) Sometimes, my intermittent wipers are uncontrollable. Sometimes it is fine for more than an hour, sometimes, they show up acting weird and are in intermittent. Yes, I already tried different modules under the lefthand side of the rear seat, but to no avail. All connections are good, all relays work fine. Check control works perfectly.

4) When I turn off the ASC button on the center console, no ASC light turns on at the cluster. Yes, the bulb is okay, double checked and changed with bulbs that were working on other posts on the electric baseplate.


Many thanks!

[shogun]

Fine, biggest problem solved.

1) Both the parking brake light and the alternator bulb are dimly lit. I have been doing some research and there might perhaps be an issue with the alternator. However, I would like to check this with several methods. The voltmeter and my multimeter are giving 12,8 V steady, but that stays the same even when the blinkers are on, together with all the lights inside, outside, and the foglights both front and rear on. I was looking for the voltage test with the OBC, but didn't manage to find that.
12.8V is not very good, should be higher. Try once more the OBC Test, you have to unlock the OBC first, then use the test function # 9 http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/obc_...c_secrets.html
If the alternator bulb is dimming, then something is wrong with the alternator. I once had it on my E36 M3 and only got 10.5V, changed the alternator voltage regulator, did not help, then I found out that one of the diodes in the alternator rectifier was damaged. Changed the rectifier cpl. and then I had 13,..V So check the voltage regulator first, must be minimum 5mm carbon http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1263002/


2) The alarm light at the center airvent on top of the dashboard is permanently on. I think this means that there is perhaps a problem with the autonomous battery of the alarm central? Where is this located? I would want the remove the relay and/or fuse for the alarm. How can this be solved? Honestly, if only the central locking system works, that is fine to me.
I assume you mean the initialising unit on the dash for the remote control, see page 12 http://www.e38.org/e32/e32_1988_manual.pdf

What is the VIN of the car? Then we can check if it came ex factory with alarm system or not. Often aftermarket systems are installed or from the dealer. But if the red light on the dashboard, that could be just the normal drive away protection (?) See owners manual. Add month and built year to your profile data + EML, E32 is not enough

3) Sometimes, my intermittent wipers are uncontrollable. Sometimes it is fine for more than an hour, sometimes, they show up acting weird and are in intermittent. Yes, I already tried different modules under the lefthand side of the rear seat, but to no avail. All connections are good, all relays work fine. Check control works perfectly.

is the speedometer working properly? Or is it like this? http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Mainte...eed_sensor.htm that would be a problem of the speed sensor on the differential. Or the wiper relay K11 X293 under driver side rear seat, see page 0660-02 http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e32/e32_89.pdf

4) When I turn off the ASC button on the center console, no ASC light turns on at the cluster. Yes, the bulb is okay, double checked and changed with bulbs that were working on other posts on the electric baseplate.
There someone has to chime in, maybe you make a blink test, ABS/ASC blink codes http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1260645 not sure if that will work on your car, only with newer clusters.
Also see user manual page 35

Any chance to find a shop which can make a fault code read out of all systems?

[BimmerMabb]

Hello Shogun, thank you for the reply.

First things first, I will try to answer one by one.

1) I indeed plan on swapping the alternator. I am able to have one from a friend tomorrow. I was already guessing it must be the rectifier, that is indeed the part that wears out over time with an alternator. However, I must admit that I don't get how to get into the secret menu. I have the OBC IV but how does the car know the date? Edit: managed to do the 9 test. Contact in position 2 gives 12.50 volt. Idle: 13.3. With lights on, idle: 13.35 up to 13.6. 1500 revs: 14.2. These are good numbers.

2) It is indeed the infrared light on the dash that is constantly on. It is permanently on. I would want to get rid of it or to disable the alarm system. Vin is DB14079 and it has the alarm that was indeed factory installed. Not a retrofit or aftermarket fit. The remote key I have works! I can use it to both lock and unlock the car, but that has not even the least influence on the behaviour of the red light. The red light is permanently on, as soon as the battery is connected. I have the owners manual right here and the only thing that is mentioned in it is how to sync the key with the car. As it works, I guess it is synced. At this particular moment I only have one key anyways. Where is the battery for the permanent feed of the alarm box? I think the red permanent light wants to tell me that the batteries aren’t charged. Is that possible?


3) Still have to check the speedo. On my old cluster it was acting weird, sometimes it went to zero and then hopped back on to the correct speed. I already took the speed sensor out and cleaned it. It is indeed not so easy to get to it, but I managed to do so. I just discovered that when it idles, sometimes I hear a relay clicking under the back seat.

4) I will do the blink test, will do it tomorrow. Edit, took the car out. No problems and all of a sudden “ASC nicht aktiv” on the cluster. After restarting engine the same problem occurred. I did the blink test and I got 6 blinks from the green ASC light on the center console...

5) Unfortunately, apart from a friend who has a lot of spares, I cannot get it anywere to have a read out of fault codes.


Many thanks!

[shogun]

as for 2) with the red light always burning I have no idea.

VIN WBAGB31020DB14079
Prod. Date 1989-05-09
Type 735i
Series E32 (7 Series)
Body Type Saloon
Steering Left Hand Drive
Engine M30
Displacement 3.5
Power 155kw / 211hp
Drive HECK
Transmission Manual
Colour Malachit-grün (205)
Upholstery (7238) SADDLETAN II VOLLEDER
optional extra ordered:
KATALYSATOR - ENTFALL/delete (0200)
Automatic Stability Control (ASC) (0213)
Servolenkung-Servotronic (0216)
BMW LM SCHMIEDERAD/KREUZSPEICH (0291)
Alarmanlage (0302)
INNENRAUMSCHUTZ/NEIGUNGSALARMG (0303)
Frontscheibe grün Grünkeil (0354)
Schiebehebedach elektrisch (0401)
Sonnenschutzrollo hinten (0415)
Fussmatten Velours (0423)
Armlehne vorne Fahrer/Beifahrer (0472)
Lordosenstütze Fahrer u. Beifahrer (0488)
Sitzheizung Fahrer/Beifahrer (0494)
Automatische-Umluft-Control (0528)
Klimaautomatik (0534)
Stärkere Stromversorgung (0570)
HiFi Lautsprechersystem (0676)
Radiovorbereitung (0687)
Länderausführung Belgien (0811)
EXPORT-FAHRZEUG (0899)

[BimmerMabb]

Dear Shogun

To me it strikes me that no one can help concerning the alarm problem. Voltage is solved, and the ABS sensor I managed to repair it. All works now.
Please, I really need to disconnect the alarm... All of a sudden it was going off, without the horn. Main beam was blinking as well as the turning signals. I need to remove the alarm... Where is the alarm box???

Many thanks!

[shogun]

There a electr. expert has to help. The alarm horn is located right side (passenger) next to the wiper motor, access is only from inside engine bay, maybe you can see it thru the plastic cover below the wiper arm.
What I have read is that the alarm system main stuff is usually installed driver side left of the steering column under the dash (or behind glovebox?). This document I found for checking, but no idea if that applies to your unit:
[Alarm]
Battery plus: ...............
Driver side door locks: .....
Passenger side door locks: ..
Trunk lock: .................
Distance impulse switch: ....
(crocodile) clamp R: ........
(crocodile) clamp 15: .......
Doors in front: .............
Doors in the back: ..........
Engine compartment or radio:.
Trunk lid: ..................
Battery cover: ..............
Glove compartment: ..........
BC-horn: ....................

1 Malfunction control-unit.The DWA-control-unit has to be replaced
2 Control-unit RESET: Battery was disconnected or the earth strap was disconnected.After erasing the fault memory, if the fault function occurs again, please check the voltage distribution of the DWA-control-unit!
3 Lock signals door Please check the microswitch and the connections of the driver side door.
4 Lock signals driver side door Please check the mircroswitch of the passenger side door and the connections !
5 Lock signals infrared system: Please check the microswitch of the driver side and passenger side door and the connections !
6 Lock signal trunk lid Please check the microswitch of the trunk lid and the connections !
7 Leveling sensor: Please check the connections on the white 26-pole plug of the DWA-unit Pin 8 and Pin 9 to the Leveling sensor. If there is no disconnection in the main cable, you have to replace the Leveling sensor !
8 Leveling sensor: The DWA-control-unit has to be recoded, because it was coded with the use of the Leveling sensor !
9 Alarm horn: Please check the cable from the 4-pole DWA-unit plug Pin 1 to the alarm horn. If the connection is o.k., you have to replace the alarm horn !
10 Drive-off-security: Please check the connection from the E-pole DWA-unit plug Pin 1 to the DME or DDE !
11Control connection to the Leveling sensor Please check the connections from the white 26-pole plug of the DWA- unit (Pin 9) to the Leveling sensor !
12 Crash-Alarm sensor: Please check the connection from the black 26-pole plug of the DWA-unit (Pin 6) to the crash-alarm-sensor. If the connection is o.k., you have to replace the alarm-sensor !
13 Breakdown control-unit: The DWA-unit has to be replaced !
14 Status LED: Please check the connection from the black 26-pole plug of DWA-units (Pin 8) to the LED. If the connections is o.k., the LED has to be replaced !
15 Control-unit RESET: The battery maybe was disconnected ! False storage has to be erased and after 60 seconds read again. If the false function is shown, you have a malfunction in the DWA-unit. The DWA-unit has to be replaced !
16 Power supply: Check ignition lock because the power supply to the DWA was disconnected! If the ignition lock is O.K., please check the following voltage condition: At the DWA-plug black, 26-pole must be on PIN 17 clamp R. At the 5-pole plug the Pin 3 clamp 15 and at Pin 4 clamp 61 must be connected properly !
17 Fault in the central-locking-system Please check all the door contacts and their connections !
20 DWA without function Please check the alarm horn. Please check all the micro-switches at the doors. Please check the following Voltage-condition: At the DWA-plug black, 26-pole must be on Pin 17 at the clamp R. At 5-pole plug the Pin 3 clamp 15 and at Pin 4 clamp 61 must be connected properly. Please check the fuse on the control-unit side.
21 DWA gives no alarm: Please check the alarm horn. If the horn is o.k., please check the 4-pole plug of the DWA the Pin 1: During the alarm you must have approx. 12 Volt voltage. After that, please check the connection (Pin 1) to
the alarm horn and then to the mass connection if there is a short-circuit. Maybe you should replace the connection from Pin 1 of the 4-pole DWA-control-unit plug to the alarm horn !
22 Function-break-down at the DWA entry: If you make out other false functions, please check these first, and erase the false storage. Otherwise please check all the switches for the doors, trunk, and hood.

1 Leveling sensor: Please check the leveling-sensors and their connections !
2 Extra module Extra module or connections defect !
3 Clamp R: Check ignition lock and connections! Power supply DWA disconnected!
4 Clamp 15 : Check ignition lock and connections! Power supply DWA disconnected!
5 Trunk-Lid-contact Check Trunk-Lid contact and connections !
6 Engine-compartment-contact Check engine-compartment-contact and connections!
7 Radio contact: Radio is installed ? If yes, hook up and check connection !
8 Glove-compartment-contact: Check Glove-compartment-contact and connections!
9 Rear-axle-contact: Check rear-axle-contact and connections. Also perform an EKM-diagnosis !
10 Central-Locking-System Read the false storage of the ZKE!
11 Status LED: Check the fuse No. 17 and the fuse at the DWA-Module. If o.k., please replace the LED !
12 Mood alarm horn (Switzerland only) Code plug defect!
13 Door locks Check the mechanism of the door locks and the connections to the DWA-Module. If you cannot find the fault, please perform a diagnosis at the ZKE-unit !

Maybe someone has an EBA EinBauAnleitung = installation instruction, if you can get that, it would be easier to disconnect.

A comment on the German 7 forum: Da diese Geräte nicht im Werk verbaut wurden, sondern von den Händlern, gibt es auch keine genaue Einbauanleitung. Es wurden irgend wo die Kabeln getrennt, und mit denen der WFS = Wegfahrsperre. verbunden, wenn du diese verfolgst, kommst du an die Originalkabel, die ja wieder gleichfarbig sein müssen. So mußt du jedes Kabel von der WFS, verfolgen, manche könnten auch ins leere laufen. Zieh dann die Kabel die du verbunden hast raus. Das ist mit viel sucherei verbunden, aber du hast keine Probleme mehr.

Or the unit is under rear seat, I just found this on the German forum: Ich habe z.Zt. auch ein Problem mit der EWS+Alarm. unter der rücksitzbank (fahrerseite) müsste eine schwarze box sein.
3 Anschlüsse:
2 Kabel Rot-Weiß
1 Breiter Stecker
1 Kleinerer stecker

um meinen Wagen starten zu können ohne alarm auszulösen öffne ich das auto mit dem schlüssel, schlüssel auf zündung und ziehe den breiten stecker in der box raus und stecke ihn wieder rein. sollte nach dem ersten versuch die checkcontrol anzeige noch nicht leuchten, die lüftung noch nicht gehen und die kleine rote led auf der armatur noch leuchten ziehe ich den stecker nocheinmal und stecke ihn rein. so überlistest du die box und das auto kann gestartet werden.

1 more link http://www.e38.org/e32/BMW_pdfs/DWA.pdf

[shogun]

also download the file postet in post $ 8, you must be registered to download the file, that is EBA Einbauanleitung Funk-Fernbedienung pdf DWA I https://www.7-forum.com/forum/showth...=wegfahrsperre
Here they mention the unit is behind the left front speaker , and another one says behind glove box http://www.7-forum.com/forum/showthr...t=122826&page=
another thread mentions:
Bei geschärfter Anlage leuchtet die LED auf der Armaturenbrettoberseite bis zu 36 h. Blinkt die LED beim Schärfen, sind Türen, Front- oder Gepäckraumklappe bzw. Handschuhkasten nicht richtig geschlossen. = when the DWA is on the DWA LED on the dash blinks up to 36 hours. when it still blinks after the DWA is set off, then the doors, front hood, trunk lid or glovebox lid or not closed correctly
There they also mention to check the microswitch behind the car radio https://www.7-forum.com/forum/showth...=wegfahrsperre