Fuel Injector testing

[jetblue2]

1983 533i. Just replaced my heater core

Now my car won't start. It was intermittent, but now seems to be a permanent no starting issue. The car turns over just fine. It does attempt to run sometimes at low RPM, but struggles and dies.

I have power to the main relay when ignition key is on. I have spark. I have good fuel flow getting to the fuel rail, I have power to the injectors when key is on.

I hooked up a Noid light to a single injector on my other good running e28 to test out the lights, but they only flicker when the car is running, not when the car is starting. How do the injectors start the car if they only pulse when running and not in start and how then do I use a noid light on a non running e28 to see if the injectors are getting good signal?

I also tried a regular test light because the Noid light is a very dim pulse and the test light is nice and bright and easier to see. the test light goes dim when attempting to start and appears to be flickering, but extremely fast and not as clear as the Noid shows, which is a distinct on and off. Is the test light just not rated for that type of voltage when pulsing? The box it came in said it's for low voltage up to 12v. I clamped the test light up to the engine and the needle end into the injector connector. Is that the right way, or do I need to connect both ends of the test light to the injector connector?

I was using a fiber optic extension on the Noid to see the flicker and it was clearly only flickering when running and not in starting. Does the MCU only power 3 injectors on start and then all 6 when running? I only tested one injector on my running e28.

I tested the AFM right at the connector and not at the MCU connector and have a few different values. I noticed the values go haywire depending on which connector I had my ohm reader on. When I tested my AFM on my running e28 the values were more steady and went up more smooth. So I was thinking that could be the culprit, but before I blow almost $1000 on a new one... (don't want a remanufactured as those are not reliable. Ask me how I know.)

I know the most likely suspect is I damaged something when removing my dash (besides my windshield, more on that later if I get this thing started...), but I've checked everything that would effect starting per the Bentley and everything seems to be working, as I stated before, with Main relay and fuel, spark etc.

I have the dealership fix with the rectangular silver relay. I noticed the coolant temp sensor and AFM both have more modern push release clamps as opposed to the paper clips on the harnesses and I've read other posts about the temp sensor causing the MCU to go so lean that the injectors can't fire sufficiently ... Can that silver relay cause a non start issue? I will check under the rubber boots to make sure the resistor is still there etc.

... I also spilled antifreeze on my speed and reference sensors when doing the heater core. Could that cause something to go bad?

I know this post is long, but I wanted to get specific advice as to what the cause can be by explaining everything I've already tested. Please let me know of any experience you've had with this non start symptoms / issues. Thank you

[shogun]

here you have the ETM for download http://wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm
and I hope someone with E28 knowledge can help you

[jetblue2]

Thanks! Looks like it will come in handy....

On further investigation the Noids work when cranked long enough. I have signal getting to injectors.

I rechecked spark and it is intermittent and weak. Coil ohms are way high... will post my results.