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Thread: reusing control arm, pressing in new e30 ball joints

  1. #1
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    Question reusing control arm, pressing in new e30 ball joints

    Old thread, I know.

    I'm looking at tightening up my '99 M3 suspension since it is 21 years old, with 119k miles, and need some good advise from guys that know more than I do regarding proper suspension setups.

    Are the aluminum front control arms just a bragging rights when buying a new M3 (new meaning 1999)? I see above that the weight difference is mentioned, but I wonder if there are any other factors (besides weight) that would make it worth buying the aluminum control arms vs Lemforder?

    My M3 has never been tracked, and just doesn't have sharp steering and solid rear end feel that is used to years ago. The front is shimmies under acceleration and moderate braking. The ass-end wags a little when making slow 90 degree turns, such as turning at a stop sign. I'm looking into what needs to be replaced to restore the suspension to it's former glory. Front control arm bushings, all rear bushings including differential. I"m also considering coil overs or perhaps a strut/spring kit. Right now I'm running Pilot Super Sport All Season tires, stock staggered sizes on factory rims. Grip is pretty good, but sidewall seems not as firm as the Pilot Sport 2 summer tires I used to run.

    Are there any suspension gurus here that can offer suggestions?

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    moroza is offline MORΩN ΛABIA BMW CCA Member
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    1. Wrong subforum.

    2. It's not a tradeoff of alu vs. Lemförder; it's one tradeoff between steel and alu, and another between manufacturers. Besides price, the alu arms have an additional disadvantage of the bushings being (nominally) irreplaceable, unlike the steel ones.

    3. The E36 M3 has a single wishbone control arm, made of steel. An alu one (aftermarket? E30 M3? Not sure) would make more of a difference there than on the E34.

  3. #3
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    One of my e32's has the stock aluminum lower arms, the other has the E31 aluminum lower arms (spherical bearings on the inboard side), and on my old e34 540i I had replaced the stock aluminum arms with from what I remember were steel lower arms (although I may be incorrectly remembering this and the replacements might have been aluminum...) All were Lemfoerder brand parts and I could not notice any difference between them besides on the first E32 where the old ones had shot ball joints so replacing them made a huge difference.

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    Quote Originally Posted by trading10 View Post
    I'm looking at tightening up my '99 M3 suspension
    E36 has a complete different set-up. On my 98 M3 I did it like this http://e36diy.com/e36-m3-replacement...rm-ball-joint/ By pressing out your old ball joints, reusing the control arm, and pressing in new e30 ball joints, you can save yourself hundreds of dollars vs buying a whole new assembly.
    http://m3pink.blogspot.com/2011/10/e...ul-part-i.html
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ement-with-E30
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  5. #5
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    I saw that diy, and like it. My question is, what prevents the control arm from deforming when pressing out the ball joint? The guy that does all my alignments warned me about trying to press them out and damaging the shape. I don't have a press and have never used one, so I don't know enough to understand the risk vs reward.

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    Check in the E36 M3 forum, there are some members which do it for you and sell used M3 arms with pressed in new ball joints. I will separate this section from the E34 thread and move it to the E36 M3 forum as separate thread. There M3 experts can help you.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

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    Quote Originally Posted by trading10 View Post
    I saw that diy, and like it. My question is, what prevents the control arm from deforming when pressing out the ball joint? The guy that does all my alignments warned me about trying to press them out and damaging the shape. I don't have a press and have never used one, so I don't know enough to understand the risk vs reward.
    lol, no. He clearly isn’t grasping how the process is done.

    You’re not going to hurt the arms using the right tools. I offer this service and have also made custom press tools to make the job easier.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Braymond141 View Post
    lol, no. He clearly isn’t grasping how the process is done.

    You’re not going to hurt the arms using the right tools. I offer this service and have also made custom press tools to make the job easier.
    Just buy them from Braymond here (or at least get his tools) . I tried to do it myself without the right tools, then asked a shop to help press out / press in, and it was a debacle all around.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Braymond141 View Post
    lol, no. He clearly isn’t grasping how the process is done.

    You’re not going to hurt the arms using the right tools. I offer this service and have also made custom press tools to make the job easier.
    Ok, I know what a press is and what it looks like using different tools to press things out/in. Not sure what I'm missing here, but regardless, I think doing a total refresh of the front suspension components must to include replacing those pesky E3 M3 ball joints. Could you recommend how/where to get this done? I'm in Oregon, outside Portland. Thanks Braymond141.
    Last edited by trading10; 05-24-2020 at 06:21 PM.

  10. #10
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    Honestly if you have the space just buy the 20 ton press from Harbor Freight. It's probably about what you would pay a shop to do this for you. And that's IF you can find a shop who both has the equipment and knows how to do it. I found that it was basically impossible to find a place that had both since it seemed like none of the good BMW shops around here would do it. I tried a generic independent car shop but their press wasn't up to the task.

    So yeah, either you know someone who has the press that you can use, or go and buy one. That's the easiest solution, from someone who has done this.
    1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy


  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by trading10 View Post
    Ok, I know what a press is and what it looks like using different tools to press things out/in. Not sure what I'm missing here, but regardless, I think doing a total refresh of the front suspension components must to include replacing those pesky E3 M3 ball joints. Could you recommend how/where to get this done? I'm in Oregon, outside Portland. Thanks Braymond141.
    Hmm. You seem to think that was directed at you. It was directed at your alignment guy.

    You can DIY it or hit up the few people that offer core exchange. I offer the exchange and have 3 sets in hand.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Braymond141 View Post
    Hmm. You seem to think that was directed at you. It was directed at your alignment guy.

    You can DIY it or hit up the few people that offer core exchange. I offer the exchange and have 3 sets in hand.
    Understood and no prob.

    I think it would be less expensive for me to have them done rather that buy a 20 ton press and tools. How do you generally like to do business for that?

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