83 Fuel System Rebuild

[jbowen944]

Hey All,

I had my car go out to an import shop thats fairly trusted, but they tuned it wrong and its rich and running at 1500rpm. I've ordered a k-jet diagnostic gauge to check fuel pressure, but I've decided to bite the bullet and replace a lot of it as a safety measure. I'm going to send out a warm up regulator and fuel distributor/air sensor out to CISTech for a full rebuild and factory reset, order new injectors, order a new cold start injector, and I'm thinking of ordering a new frequency/cycle valve as a precaution. Along with this it'll be a new charcoal canister, O2 sensor, new fuel return line, and a BMW in-tank pump and sending unit. I've redone all my vent hoses, all new vacuum hoses as well. I'm going to pull the engine again to replace a freeze plug, and throw in a Bosch starter and alternator, and coolant return pipe. I'm also installing a clean radiator. I'd love to hear thoughts on this, and if anyone knows a way to test any of this or anything that'll help, I'd love to hear from you all.

[320iAman]

That is one way to do it and good for you, I rebuilt my Fuel Distributor and tuned it to factory specifications also the Warm Up Regulator with new o-ring, I have a new charcoal canister too got it from fcp euro with lifetime warranty , the rebuild of the Fuel Distributor with directions, pictures , and parts list and supplier is in FAQ's , the warm up regulator adjusting the cold and warm control pressure is there as well, renewing or rebuilding all the parts is the way to go as too the Frequency Modulation Valve I have never heard of one that has gone bad yet. The test equipment is listed in FAQ's as well to get System Pressure, Control Pressures, and Rest Pressure.

Randy

[jbowen944]

So I have the option between a k-jet test gauge that’s banjo fittings from fuel distributor to warm up regulator, or a test gauge that has a few swappable fittings, the CTA kit on amazon. Which of these would be best?

[amarino]

Here's some good reading material to help put it all together and tune it.

Bosch K-Jetronic Fuel Injection Manual.pdf
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx...TRaRUtHUlFaTkU

BMW Fuel Injection - An Enlightened Approach.pdf
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jO...DItnc917KSgOL0

[320iAman]

I use this CIS K-Jetronic Fuel Injection pressure tester for System Pressure, Warm and Cold Control Pressure , and Rest Pressure by S & G Tool Aid #33800
33800.jpg or one can use the same Tester in a Case, # 33865 33865 Color Photo 300.jpg, shop around and get the best price, amazon, ebay and Tool Aids site.

http://toolaid.com/search/node/CIS%2...ssure%20Tester


Randy

[jbowen944]

So I'm looking at these numbers for rebuild/replace of the fuel system:

Fuel Distributor Rebuild: $540
Warm Up Regulator Rebuild: $320
Air Meter Cleaning and Testing: $200-$350 based on condition
Auxiliary Air Valve Testing: $15
Cold start Valve Testing: $15
Fuel Return Line New: $52.30
Cycle/Frequency Valve New: $228.10
Fuel Accumulator New: $155.53, spec'd as the pre '78 but has the vent line on the back. Post '80 is $170.23 but not available from most suppliers
4 Fuel Injectors New: $142.84
Cold Start Valve New: $169.20
O2 Sensor New: $32.14
Charcoal Canister New: $139.06
In-Tank Pump New: $411.76
Sending Unit New: $397.90

Thoughts? If anyone has new or any advice on this, I'd love to hear from you

[320iAman]

There are two places that commercially rebuild E21 Fuel Distributors and Warm Up Regulators that I know of, check out the prices of both if not doing a DIY.

CIS Flow Tech - Larry

http://www.cisflowtech.com/

Fuel Injection Corp - Bob and Kathy White--rebuilds Fuel Pumps and Bosch E21 Lambda Computers as well. I have a rebuilt WUR and Lambda Computer from Bob before I started my rebuilding of FD,WUR, ect.

Lambda Computer Controls the Fuel to the Fuel Injectors thru the Frequency Valve and Main Relay after the baseline is established by the WUR when in Warm Control Pressure thru Voltage increments sent by the O2 sensor range 0 to 1 Volt and after the 17 C Engine Temperature Switch is in open loop- resistance is infinite, 1 or 0 on the DC Voltage Meter.

New Engine Temperarure Switch or check resistance cold motor and warmed up motor. BMW dealerships can get these New from BMW- BMW Group in Germany--I bought one-not expensive.

How is your Bosch Lambda Computer ? I see new ones popup from time to time for around $150 on ebay, its an early bird gets the worm here.

https://fuelinjectioncorp.com/

Randy

[jbowen944]

Randy, The rebuild and test prices listed are from CIS Flow Tech.I'm assuming my Lambda computer is fine, the only issue when the car was parked 7 years ago was blown head gasket.

[320iAman]

Use a squirt bottle or motor oil pump can of your choice of motor oil and spray the top end of all parts of the valve train and the bottom end- crank shaft-crank rods, including the wrist pin areas and the engine cylinders when two pistons are up-two pistons will be down-rotate the crank shaft so that all 4 cylinders have motor oil on them. This will minimize start up resistance and start up wear-good idea to two spray start fluid with upper cylinder lubrication into the spark holes of each cylinder as well, you can jumper the fuel pump relay before startup so that fuel pressure is built as well 5 seconds is good enough to bring up to full pressure,its quite fast, inspect the fuel system- all parts for leaks when pressure is built up- a penny of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Larry is a good man at this so is Bob, Bob has a wider range of parts-they test-clean-rebuild the parts they do--give FIC a call and price check and warranty.

"
About FIC…

Fuel Injection Corporation began as a one-man business that started in Bob White’s home in 1987. FIC is still family ran and is located in Tracy California. For more than 30 years FIC has offered access to the finest rebuilt fuel injection components in the industry. FIC offers several product lines that are exclusive to Fuel Injection Corporation.
Always striving to improve, FIC is dedicated to providing customers with quality workmanship, and superior Customer Service. We continually strive to increase our quality with a heavy focus on warranty rate reduction. FIC enjoys a 97%+ success rate on every part sold.
Of the many products remanufactured by FIC, we have specialized skills in automotive electronic computers, utilizing our own in-house reverse engineered ECM testing units. We also test, clean and rebuild electronic fuel injectors. FIC is one of the very few companies that actually REBUILD fuel injectors. Every single air flow and vane type meter, air mass sensor, fuel distributor, warm-up regulator, fuel pump, pressure sensor, and auxiliary air valve rebuilt by FIC is 100% dismantled and rebuilt from the component level. "


Randy

[jbowen944]

Randy, I've already replaced the motor with another M10 since the old one was rusted throughout the valve train and seized. New engine, just need my fuel system properly serviced and checked out as I can't find a quality tech anywhere near me, and I've chased all that i can. It runs and drives, though is very rich. I tried adjusting down, but it's idling high even though there's no vacuum leaks, I'm unsure what the techs did to her.

[epmedia]

Have the 3 pieces of fuel hose on the suction side of the external (main) fuel pump ever been replaced? If still using the original cloth braided hoses, there are air bubbles getting sucked into the fuel supply system. If this is the case, the fuel mix may have been adjusted to compensated for air bubbles in the fuel system. Also check all the 3 hoses hose ends, including the one that attaches to the top of the fuel tank.

Also check the throttle stop and throttle cable adjustments, may be holding the throttle open a tad.

Other areas to check for vacuum leaks is the ignition vacuum advance circuit and the underside of the intake manifold where a **vacuum nipple should be plugged.

** #9 here :
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_0831

[320iAman]

Try adjusting air idle screw in the intake manifold turn ccw, also loosen the nut on the Distributor and turn ccw a little either one of these will lower the idle speed, also check your O2 sensor with the car running and warmed up pull the wire to the O2 sensor and use a multi-meter set to low DC Voltage put the red lead into the female spade terminal from the O2 sensor and the black lead touching the car body--clean metal as ground- the DC Voltage should jump around from 0 to 1 volt if the readings are not jumping around and steady at one dc voltage the O2 sensor is defective--this can cause high idle as well and a new O2 sensor will lower the idle rpms .

Your working around the exhaust manifold which gets quite hot so use thick gloves to not get burned.

If the car is running too rich then you'll need to turn down the Air/Fuel Mixture with a 3 mm Long Allen wrench here a slight adjustment changes A/F mixture especially when zeroing in where it needs to be--FAQ's has the instructions on this to set up a baseline and go from there. CCW turning of Volume air box Allen screw leans Air/Fuel Mixture , CW turning of Volume Air Box Allen screw Enriches Air/Fuel Mixture.
CCW turning turns down idle.

I have two of these to adjust Air Fuel mixture and adjust it once a year or so. Eklind 3mm 54930 USA $3 -$6

3A583_AS01.jpg


If you find a ASE Mechanic certified for Fuel Injection ect-many around, A Smog Tech can do this as well , the bolts in the bungs in the exhaust pipes down from the exhaust manifold under the hood of the car are removed and infrared exhaust sensor is placed in one hole then the other and the CO% is read and adjusted to .2 to 1.2 % --- .9 to 1.0 % is typical for a good Air/Fuel Mixture. The O2 Sensor is disconnected when setting the Air Fuel Mixture and the car fully warmed up to do A/F adjustments. Several ways to adjust Air/Fuel Mixture can do with a Multimeter or Dwell Meter as well---45% for Dwell meter.

Randy

[jbowen944]

EPMedia, I redid all the hoses when i had the tanks dropped earlier this year. I've got to pull the engine for a freeze plug anyways, so I can go through it all again to check out what they touched and messed with. I had a good idle and it wasn't overly rich when I sent it in, So I've got to track down what they did.

Randy, sadly in my area we don't have any truly qualified mechanics, and oddly enough both the BMW dealer in Atlanta and a large import shop in Atlanta both refused to service K-jetronic. I've been laid off, so I've got a fair amount of time to go ahead and check everything again to make sure the shop didn't mess up a hose or disconnect anything. I'm planning to build my own shop in the near future for vintage servicing on rarer cars and systems like these, as I can't find anyone I trust in the state of GA.

[jbowen944]

Anyone have a recommendation on a good source for a fuel accumulator? Mine has failed. I know that a few cars use the same, and was wondering if anyone knew a supplier that was reasonably priced

[cgifool]

If you can find the bosch number for yours, you may find better prices by searching that number directly as opposed to the bmw part number..

[jbowen944]

Is there a trick to finding Bosch numbers for parts without dropping the part to pull the number? I know how to find the BMW numbers, but no idea for Bosch.

[320iAman]

Use BMW number for online search and look for interchangeable Number in threads many times there will be several manufacturers with there interchange numbers for the same part, look for Bosch Numbers that interchange with BMW Numbers. Example BMW Number-Bosch Number-Beru Number-Huco Number- etc--all different.


Randy

[jbowen944]

Got her up and running today, did well on the road. Maxxed out the speedometer! I'm still going to go through and replace/rebuild my fuel system when work starts back though. My exhaust smelled fairly rich, any tips on making sure my tune is right? I feel I need to check my idle setting, find a way to make sure my fuel/air mix is correct. Not knowing what the import shop did and not currently being able to pull the engine to go through it again is killing me haha. I'd love to hear your thoughts on it. Also, there's a bit of light smoke or vapor, at least sometimes.

Also-I've got it where if you open the oil cap or pull the dip stick it'll stall out so my vacuum is good.

[320iAman]

Too rich on start up, you can back off the Air/Fuel Mixture using the Eklind 3mm 54930 USA tool turning counter clock wise slightly and check and adjust the Warm up Regulator, the WUR sets the control pressure of start up and engine warmed up, you'd really need the a CIS K Jetronic gauge and hook up lines to see what the values of cold and warm control pressure is and then go from there, in FAQ's under E21 Fuel Distributor , a link in there goes thru step by step how to set these. Setting these set the fuel with out the Air in the equation of Air Fuel Mixture, Air is a constant.

Randy

[jbowen944]

I cleaned a spare WUR and put it in, but I'm having an issue I could use help tracking. So to start the car, I've got to hold the key over, turning the starter for a few seconds for the system to catch and start going. Pretty sure its a fuel issue, any idea on this? Everything is factory still.

[epmedia]

Possibly the inlet filter on the cold start injector is dirty. In the mean-time, use short cranks on the starter motor.

[jbowen944]

I’ll pop it off and clean it tomorrow, thanks. Counted today, after sitting all night it takes 25 seconds on the starter to run.

[jbowen944]

The solenoid activates in the cold start injector, but no spray. I’m not sure if it’s a pressure or injector issue. Going to make a k-jet test setup tomorrow to pull some pressure tests. Any ideas on why I’m not getting spray? Reading 12v at the plug, with audible click when I test on the battery.

[320iAman]

Fuel is sent directly to the cold start valve thru the Fuel Distributor when the starter is engaged via the ignition switch in the start position, Its either the fuel line is clogged ,fuel pressure is too low or Cold Start Valve is defective, since there is a click sounds like too low of fuel pressure. Fuel Pressure measured at the top of the Fuel Distributor should be 60-70 psi.

Randy

[jbowen944]

Can someone link where its explained how to test cold and warm pressure? i'm not sure where to attach to on the WUR or Fuel distributor. Thanks!