Shake & Brakes

**bobby2putt** · 05-09-2020, 07:54 PM

I had the 45 mph shake for a little while but rarely drive my ‘87. I swapped out my front wheels today and it helped a good amount but still little shakin goin on. But main thing I noticed was how ugly my front brakes looked. Lots of rust. What’s the best option.....get new everything? ....just new rotors and pads? What the best place to buy? Didn’t see much at FCP. Are there better upgrades instead of oem? Thanks, Bob

**DesktopDave** · 05-09-2020, 08:25 PM

Shaking could also be your thrust arm bushings, those live short lives in the E24.

I'd keep the brakes as-is, maybe just get some upgraded pads and replace the hardware? According to RealOEM, you'd need spring kit #34111155712. I'm no authority on pads, usually just go with Akebono. I believe Jurid is OEM for the quad-piston calipers, pads should be part #34112226009. That bleeder screw looks crusty, I'd recommend a squirt of PB Blaster or Kroil a few hours before you try to loosen it. New bleeders are also available, part 34111103232.

As for brake upgrades, you're likely running the best front brake option in the E24 world. BMW did have some larger front quad calipers on the E31, but I'm assured they are quite heavy and very expensive.

I'm running M6 front rotors on my car, but I'm using E32 740i single-piston calipers instead of the M6 quads you have. Rear E34 540i calipers & vented rotors are a very economical upgrade for your car. If you found an E32 740i, grab the calipers & carriers, they bolt right on as long as you use E34 540i rotors. The 7-series rear rotors have the wrong offset and won't fit.

You could also use the E34 535i rear brakes, they're just as big as the 540i parts but not vented, thus a slightly lighter choice.

**Nullified** · 05-10-2020, 03:23 AM

How about doing a rebuild by mediablasting and replacing the rubbers and bleeder valves? It'll look good and functionally they'll be like new.

**bobby2putt** · 05-10-2020, 09:08 AM

Thanks for the info Desktop. Not sure if I’ll do the job myself or get a mechanic. Just getting out those rusty pins look like it’ll be a nightmare. Definitely would like them to look better. Not sure who would rebuild them around me.

**RSheiman** · 05-10-2020, 09:23 AM

As said, if you have never changed the lower control arms, do so. Major cause of the shakes when brakes are NOT applied. Various options. Lemforder was OEM, there is Meyle HD (been a few years since I had these, not sure of the quality anymore). There are numerous upgrades but not sure if they are still around. Bob V has (had) custom spherical ones he swears by.

I forgot who I spoke with, referred by Bert P, does a lot of racing, does brake upgrades. He basically told me the E24 system is very good and no need to upgrade if you are doing routine driving. I cannot recall any post speaking about how their OEM brakes when fully functional, let them down.

**carsnplanes** · 05-10-2020, 01:14 PM

I would say that if you are keeping the stock TRXs or wheel of equal size 14 or 15in, the stock brakes are adequate. If you are upgrading to any larger wheel than 15in, then I would highly recommend upgrading the brakes as well. As mentioned and as with mine, changing the front to E32 750 calipers, rotors and carriers is not a big deal and parts are plentiful. You don't even have to change the MC if you don't want to. For the rear as mentioned same thing by installing E34 535 or 540 hardware. These are simple upgrades and so once installed you just have to remember to "order" and ask for pads for the two different car brake system at the auto parts store from then on.
The larger brakes and rotors will do a better job worth any larger wheel change.

**DesktopDave** · 05-10-2020, 11:02 PM

Originally Posted by bobby2putt

Thanks for the info Desktop. Not sure if I’ll do the job myself or get a mechanic. Just getting out those rusty pins look like it’ll be a nightmare. Definitely would like them to look better. Not sure who would rebuild them around me.

It's gotten truly difficult to find anyone willing to rebuild anything at all any more, you're not alone! Those retention pins are easy enough to knock out with the correctly-sized drift, but it isn't difficult to make a mess of those quite pricey calipers with substandard tools...not that I'd have any direct experience with that...

Front brakes are also one of those jobs that you can't leave halfway-done...

Just had a look around, Turner can get you some rebuilt M6 calipers. Here's the right side for the bargain price of $771. Ouch! Alternatively, they sell the genuine ATE rebuild kit for $23.

I'd recommend taking it to an independent shop specializing in Euro makes for some expert advice. I'd ask them to flush out the brake system with new DOT4/BMW fluid and replace the front thrust arms with BMW or Lemfoerder parts. I've had a lot of luck over the years buying the exact parts I want & leaving them in the trunk for a pro to install.

There's a few good shops over my way but I'm not sure where to send you out east. Maybe someone else local to you will pop by with recommendations. A quick Google search of Kennett Square turned up Bavarian Motorsport nearby and M-Tech, BimmerWorks a little further off. I have no affiliation with them, although the reviews looked promising.

BMW dealers are another possibility...but it's a little "hit or miss" with them. They are always pricey. Some are first-rate shops loaded with car guys. Others just focus on lease terms & sales quotas...they really want nothing to do with our older cars.

**Bert Poliakoff** · 05-11-2020, 12:06 AM

There should be a brake rebuilding and supply co somewhere in your vicinity check with them.If they will do it and can't get the rebuild kits they are very easy to get

**carsnplanes** · 05-11-2020, 08:15 AM

Folks, I gotta tell ya, I've had good luck with parts from Autozone, or similar. Their rebuilt parts are warranted and they are priced reasonably. Your choice whether you want to have yours rebuilt or get rebuilt ones from them .
You can see the calipers AND bracket/carriers are almost too reasonable not to buy them ready to mount. You can keep your own original calipers and rebuild them at your leisure too if you ever want to go back to them.
Here is a sample of the prices for E32 750 calipers from Autozone: Great upgrade
750 calipers 1.JPG

750 calipers.JPG

**1986series6** · 05-11-2020, 08:44 AM

I did my upgrade as Jody suggests. Don't forget, upgrade with SS brake lines.

**RSheiman** · 05-11-2020, 02:35 PM

Bob cannot state how well the upgrade works since he did it years ago but since his car is still undergoing upgrades, he has put no miles on it! The six million dollar man with the six million dollar car. Sorry Bob, you kinda gave this one to me, what was I suppose to do, let it go?

**SprCpe** · 05-12-2020, 12:38 AM

I just did the front pad's, calipers, and rotors on my 89. I don't know how much this helps, but I went with standard Brembo vented rotors, not drilled, I got EBC standard pads and picked up a set of rebuilt calipers " I decided it was easier and cheaper in the long run and less frustration lol" all pretty much OEM, I do mainly normal driving with a rare autocross and figured this was plenty, it is for my driving. Everything for under $250.00 and I did my own work.

The lower control arms are an easy swap, I got Lemforder's with the 750i bushings they have done great over the past 10 years, just remember to preload the arms before you tighten them down.

I did notice that it looks like you have spacers on the hub, are your pictures of the front end, those calipers look like my rears, nothing like the fronts on my 89, I thought 87-89 were pretty much the same.

Good luck with the project.

**Bert Poliakoff** · 05-12-2020, 03:48 PM

Look up Moose Head engineering He does control arms with spherical bushings pressed in not cheap but will last forever. The guys who have done this rave about them and the difference in car handling spend the money it is well worth it. I haven't seen him around for several years but give it a shot

**wogden700** · 05-12-2020, 07:03 PM

I just had my control are bushings done AGAIN. This time by a different shop. He uses E32 bushings and cuts them to fit the E24.

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**1986series6** · 05-13-2020, 11:15 AM

Warren,

I had them installed several times over the years. The last set installed was not
pre-loaded when torqued. That's when I went with spherical, never to have that problem again.

Hey Rob,

I would have been disappointed if you would have "Let-It-Go".

**Bert Poliakoff** · 05-13-2020, 02:39 PM

Yes for SPHERICAL!!

**wogden700** · 05-13-2020, 10:22 PM

Originally Posted by 1986series6

Warren,

I had them installed several times over the years. The last set installed was not
pre-loaded when torqued. That's when I went with spherical, never to have that problem again.

Hey Rob,

I would have been disappointed if you would have "Let-It-Go".

Thanks for the heads up

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

**bobby2putt** · 05-30-2020, 10:06 PM

Just an update....will be taking my car to Bimmerworks on Monday. Doing all the work is above me. Will be interesting to see what they come up with and will let you guys know. Thanks for the help.
-Bob

**DesktopDave** · 05-31-2020, 09:29 AM

A good indie shop is well worth the investment; post your experiences with them if you get a chance.

**bobby2putt** · 06-26-2020, 08:05 AM

Well I wanted to post an update. My car has been up at Bimmerworks for a month and not much has happened. Nice enough people but they said they’ve been really busy. It had been there a week and hadn’t heard anything. Called and said I’d come get my car if they were too busy so then someone finally Got back to me. Said would take a while to get parts from Germany. They went over the car and I knew a bunch needed to be done but here’s what we decided on doing.....

C842C513-7DCA-44D7-ABD0-1AEFA60C8331.jpeg

**DesktopDave** · 06-26-2020, 09:32 AM

Thanks for the update. I think you'll be happy with the results; that'll freshen the brakes up substantially.

**bobby2putt** · 07-24-2020, 05:55 PM

Still don’t have my car back. If it stays much longer it might have a birthday there! Said still waiting for a part. Hopefully get it back next week.

**Sansouci** · 07-26-2020, 02:39 PM

So BMWNA doesn't have them in stock? BTW, can't read your pic as the details are too small.

**RSheiman** · 07-26-2020, 07:00 PM

Cost and wait time are why I do my own. I learned out of necessity when young and poor. I posted a question a while back on estimating savings doing your own stuff. I know I am beyond saving 100K over 25 years with all my cars and yes...you also have to like doing it and I do. I should add that every one of my cars has my blood on some part somewhere, right of passage.

**carsnplanes** · 07-26-2020, 07:22 PM

+1 what Rob said. I also started working on cars out of necessity. We lived a modest bohemian lifestyle as a kid with an artist dad who liked to tinker with cars too. In fact I didn't know you could take your car somewhere where someone else worked on it for you. I eventually found out but by then I was already pulling the family VW bus engine out at 9 years old with my dad using an old baby carriage and a scissor jack.
it really does pay to DIY if you know how and have the tools. And if you don't have the exact tools, you'll know what you need to get the job done by making a tool that works. Of course if you have more money than time or know-how, then of course pay someone...as long as YOU know they are doing it right. Another saying from dear old dad. "always know how to do it first before paying someone one else to do it".