So I woke the Bimmer up from hibernation today (2006 3.0si.). Haven't driven it since November.
I inflated each tire to spec - 33 psi for front tires, 38 psi for rear tires - then started it up. It started up fine and I drove it for 10 miles. But after I started it I got a couple dash lights: a yellow BRAKE light and a symbol that sort of looks like a tire. They were illuminated the entire time I drove it. Any ideas? I checked the level of the brake fluid, and it's fine.
I would guess the differential pressure between front and rear tires, as pressure changes the working diameters. What are the recommended pressures from the VIN build date sticker on drivers door By pillar/ owners manual?
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Last edited by bluptgm3; 04-25-2020 at 12:30 PM.
Double check your tire pressures. If you are sure they are at spec then push and hold down the button in the console that looks just like the light. This shouls reset the indicator. As for the brake light I would double check to see if your e-brake is fully released.
Z4 trifecta.... google it.
Low voltage will cause those particular lights to illuminate. Once illuminated the error codes need to be reset via software or a OBED2 code reader which is capable of reading/resetting BMW specific codes. Very few are capable of this...
I don’t know if you had the car on a battery tender or not .... If you didn’t then the battery likely drained enough during the storage to cause the low voltage condition which caused the “trifecta” of dash lights.
Check your batteries cold voltage and then when started up it’s voltage running (alternator). This is to eliminate battery/alternator issue. Google battery/alternator output to check the voltages you have against this information.
If your battery has low voltage or is old.. change the battery as part of your maintenance and have the error codes reset. If they don’t return then problem solved. If not then more diagnostic work required.
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Thanks Clearancediver.
So just now I went out there and measured the battery voltage. It was 12.2 V. After starting it, it jumped up to 14.1 V.
So I think the alternator is O.K. But wouldn't you agree a battery voltage of 12.2 V is way too low? Shouldn't it be 12.5 V to 12.6 V?
I would definitely invest in a new battery... and then have those codes cleared and see what happens.
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New battery, clear faults, road test
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