Hi all,
I have a line on this Ascot green 328i sedan. Has some rust on the passenger rear, but all the jacking points all seem solid.
Last two pics show view of the front of the rear wheel well looking up from the pavement. Second to last you can see where the rear trailing arm connects.
So my question is....How fatal is this rust? Is it practical to fix or should I assume that I'll be driving it this way?
Also- how much rear quarter has to come off if I'm replacing? Obviously the joint to the rear panel is deteriorated as well.
Thanks!
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Avus/M-Tech
If it were me I would do the fender and spot on the rear, use a wheel grinder and remove all the rust (it goes wicked fast, harbor freight $15), then treat the bare metal with naval jelly, bondo, sand, prime, paint. The under body stuff I would leave alone as well as the bit on the outer bottom because they are less noticeable and more work. Obviously the car is at its end and will cost a lot to do it properly as well as a lot of time if you do it yourself. If you want, you can get a small can of Por15 (not cheap) and treat all the under body stuff, it will stop the rust in its tracks. Before applying remove all the stuff that's loose or can be chipped off.
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If you don't own this car yet, I would walk away so quickly that I might appear to be running. You haven't found the end of that rust yet. The inner fender well and inner rocker panel are not available as aftermarket parts, you would have to fabricate everything or cut them out of a doner. It can be done if you have the fabrication skills to make and weld in all of the damaged sheet metal, but you probably wouldn't be asking the question here if you already have the means to take this on. I hope this doesn't come across as insulting, but this is a bit job to take on and it is unlikely the car is worth it.
No offense taken as you are correct. If I had any experience with body work, aside from replacing bolt on parts I wouldn't be asking.
I don't own the vehicle, but was intrigued by it's unique color (Ascotgruen on tan) and the fact that the rest of the vehicle is well kept, has clean carfax with only 3 owners. 163k miles, manual, redone suspension and M-contours with new tires. And it's only $2,000.
Sounds like this might only fit the bill as a short-term beater type vehicle.
I'm curious your thoughts on how the damage really would affect drivability, or do you think it is mostly cosmetic?
My intent is really just to have an occasional weekender that is more fun to run around in than my daily (don't ask).
Avus/M-Tech
The car will be not be as stiff as the rocker panels rust out, with some mitigation, you could get about 2-3 years out of it. I would be concerned about any rust that approaches the pockets for the rear trailing arms. It does not appear to threatening them, but is should be closely inspected.
I don't know your inspection and registration requirements but I don't see that thing being able to pass safety inspection. In my opinion, a fun weekender is something you enjoy driving and walking up to, trying to ignore that rust and enjoy the car doesn't seem likely to me. I would offer $1000 and go searching for a clean automatic chassis with a cracked head for $500 and make one good car out of the two that would be worth putting some effort and expense into. Whenever you pick one of these cars up, they cooling system typically is due for a refresh and I can not see paying $2000 for this car only to start dumping money and effort into to a loosing battle with time and rust. Just my opinion.
Appreciate your thoughts.
I'd have a hard time justifying doing much to a vehicle where this is the condition, even if it could be had for only $1,000.
It's easy to look past the rust if it's on the passenger side...just have to park the right way!
Avus/M-Tech
I agree with gdavid, it's more of a $1000 car because the rust is extensive. Cooling system overhaul ~$250.
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Thats a chump car for sure.
I just attempted to repair my rockers enough to be able to use a jack under them. The jack points for the factory jack were no longer attached to the inner chassis. One jack pad was barely held in by rusty metal. I'm not a very good welder/fabricator but I did get enough new metal welded in that I can at least use a jack on it.
Last edited by jmo69; 04-30-2020 at 04:11 PM.
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