M10 headgasket job/checklist

[Rajvosa]

hey guys,

picked up a 316 here in australia (UK import) with 100k kms documented. i bought it with bad head gasket and yesterday took the head off. sent it off for welding as it had some corosion. anyways just been reading up on putting it back together and wanted to make sure im not going down the wrong path with anything...

- clean and reuse head bolts (make sure all holes are oil free)... do i need to oil the bolts before inserting?
- i got the tightening bolt pattern, but is the 3 step method 34-40nM, 58-62, wait 20 mins, 78-82, then adjust valves (clearance 0.20mm) and then run engine warm followed by 25 degrees tightening. ( also no need to re tighten after 1000kms ?? )
- chain tensioner burping

im not sure if i need to put any sealer under or on top of the gasket?

am i missing anything?

thanks guys

[GDAus]

Most important .... the front cover that bolts onto the front of the cylinder head needs to be bolted to the head during any machining of the head surface so the head and the cover are the same level or you could end up with oil leaks.

[Rajvosa]

Most important .... the front cover that bolts onto the front of the cylinder head needs to be bolted to the head during any machining of the head surface so the head and the cover are the same level or you could end up with oil leaks.

yes, I’ve left it bolted with the head at the shop. Cheers !

[320iAman]

Yes, Oil the Cylinder Head Bolts and wipe off so that there is light oil on them-the threaded portion and make sure the Head Gasket Washers-the concave side is up for even distribution of clamping force by the Head Gasket Bolt as they have a convex clamping area. Always Coat the Cylinder Head Gasket portion that is protruding from the Cylinder head and Engine Block and is sandwiched between the upper and lower timing and oil chain covers - I use Curil T there, Hylomar Universal Blue is another Good Choice , as too Coating the Cylinder Head Gasket that is sandwiched between the Cylinder Head and the Engine Block this choice is left up to the installer, Permatex Copper Spray on is a good choice for obvious reasons-metal is a better heat conductor and avoiding cylinder head gasket hot spots. Silver Paint is a good choice also.

Randy

[epmedia]

Some M10 heads require sealant on the exhaust stud threads, otherwise an oily mess.
What sealant do you recommend for exhaust studs on the head, Randy? I forget

...and don't forget the lock plates for the camshaft sprocket bolts.
I don't have my book for torque specs to verify that question.

[320iAman]

Hi Robert.

I prefer now-Permatex Thread Sealant either High Temperature 59214 ( 400 F) or High Performance 56521 (300F) ( up to 10,000 psi)--not expensive either one , I have both, plus

Also prefer Permatex High Tack 80062 not expensive as well, -65°F to 500°F (-54°C to 260°C). Sensor-safe. Resists gasoline, oil, antifreeze, axle lube, kerosene, propane and butane. I have this one too its quite sticky , so any of three will get the job done. I used this one on differential rebuild gasket and rubber seals outside coating to stop fluid from doing an end run around the rubber seals. I'd say in Auzzie Land due to hotter temperatures High Tack is more than a Supreme Choice. Coat the stud thread part that screws into the Cylinder Head and wipe off any sticking thru inside the Cylinder head, Never Hardens Like Curil T or Hylomar Universal Blue.

Randy