M70B54 build

[petejk]

So after wasting a couple of weeks after I accidentally cracked the inner lower timing case, and had to wait for a used replacement, plus gaskets, I was able to get new one bolted up.

Next was the upper oil pan. I installed this in order to time the engine.
Below can be seen the two bolts that do line up with the M73 main rear seal cover, and the those that don’t.


Temporarily fitting the flywheel allowed for the insertion of the TDC locking pin. This also led to a repeat of one of my least favorite activities - transferring the engine from the stand to the hoist!

Cam locking tools are fitted on the heads. This was after I realized my mistake in cam orientation. The dowel pin holes had been facing out rather than in, which meant I had to unbolt, turn over, and re bolt the cams to the heads.

Flywheel locking pin inserted. The engine had been set at approximate TDC, so there wasn’t much rotation needed before locking the pin in place.



Cam sprocket bolts are finger tight, with Allen key adjusting chain tension. Manual 11 14 102 calls adjustment for 6mm play. I played around with this for a while.


Looking forward to seeing what these cams can do, although I hope M73 itself will be a big improvement.

Front timing covers next.



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[TedBobo]

Keep posting...I like reading the progress updates.

[rockytt]

Keep posting...I like reading the progress updates.

Me too!

[petejk]

Keep posting...I like reading the progress updates.

There doesn’t seem to be a consensus on which crank bolt to use. On three threads I read three different recommendations. In the end I settled on a (new) M73 bolt. Torque specs used were as M73 at 75lb ft plus 60degrees x2. I had to resort to temporarily bolting the engine to its mounts in the engine bay to get this done.



Timing covers installed here. They don’t have the powdercoated or painted bling found in some other builds, but they’re clean.



Engl banjo bolt locking tabs installed. These may well be overkill, but will give me some peace of mind. Valve covers are about to go on.



Wokke mentions in his thread using the temperature sensor stub to block off the unused hole in the M73 water pump. A dremel and a file left me with this.






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[petejk]

I wished I had had the foresight to read the discussion of modification required to the alternator bracket more closely, because it is also mentioned that the timing cover needs to be ground down.

I ended up having to dremel the nub in the center of the picture down by about 5-6mm in situ.



I also filed away a similar amount of material from the alternator bracket as seen in an image on wokke’s thread. In hindsight, the front cut out wasn’t necessary, but gave a good view into the clearance of the timing cover-bracket gap behind when test fitting.



Bracket and water pump installed. I’m using an M70 metal water pump pulley, as opposed to the M73 plastic part.




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[davewaner41]

I love that

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What actually do you really want in that coz I also do same here but so far from you and that dies not make noting to me in gain

[petejk]

I posted to a separate thread for transmission cleaning and installation of new input and output seals.

After that was complete, I knocked the pilot bearing into the end of the crank to the same depth as on my M70 block.



Next, bolted the flywheel on for hopefully the last time for a few thousand miles. Shown is the BMW locking tool at the 2 o’clock position. Flywheel bolts were reused with thread locker, then flywheel surface cleaned.



Test fitting clutch fork with new spring and release bearing. I removed the slave cylinder before mating the transmission to the block.
There was a specific grease listed for the input shaft splines and other contact points, but I ended up using a thin amount of Redline CV-2.



Spec clutch disc and pressure plate bolted on and centered. It may not be OEM, but seems to be the only reasonably priced alternative.




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[petejk]

I didn’t have much luck joining the transmission to the block, with the engine hanging from the hoist, and the transmission rolling on the jack until I used 4 bolts that I had previously used to secure the engine to the stand as guide bolts to draw them both together.

Once the guide bolts were in place the rest of the job was plain sailing.



Engine out is the best time to replace the starter. Hopefully this reconditioned unit lasts for a while.



It’s too bad that I’ll never see some of the painted parts, but I’ll know they I took the time to do so., like this heat shield.




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[cartoonz]

you'll like that clutch. Great job!

Oh... when it comes time to bleed the clutch... Power Bleeder from the top is the ONLY way to get all the air out (and do NOT move the pedal while doing it - don't ask me how I know)

[petejk]

When I used my power bleeder prior to pulling the engine/transmission, I used too much pressure and popped the clutch line off the master cylinder.
This time I'll be a little more cautious with it!

[TedBobo]

Any thought on installing headers?

[dukegrad98]

Spec clutch disc and pressure plate bolted on and centered. It may not be OEM, but seems to be the only reasonably priced alternative.

you'll like that clutch. Great job!

Spec is the clutch I wish I had used back when I built my twin-turbo M70, ten years or more ago. The CSi unit in my car still has to be babied a bit to avoid slippage on power. Hindsight is 20/20! The car probably won't see enough miles in my lifetime to need another clutch, but I've actually thought about putting a Spec on the shelf as a spare just in case it's never needed.

I echo the comment -- great work! I'm enjoying following your thread.

Cheers, John

[Rickwalk]

Impressive, to say the least. Many kudo’s to all that have chimed in with VERY helpful hints, tricks & cautious guidance.

[petejk]

Any thought on installing headers?

I’d like to, but budget doesn’t allow, for the same reason I didn’t replace rod/main bearings/rings. I I’ve to admit that I really like the look of the Soara headers however. Maybe next year..

When I’m back on the road, I’ll be having a pair of Walker cats welded in. Cat back will consist of a Wokke X pipe, and 599 mufflers.


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[TedBobo]

I’d like to, but budget doesn’t allow, for the same reason I didn’t replace rod/main bearings/rings. I I’ve to admit that I really like the look of the Soara headers however. Maybe next year..

When I’m back on the road, I’ll be having a pair of Walker cats welded in. Cat back will consist of a Wokke X pipe, and 599 mufflers.


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"599" mufflers, NICE!