Block surface cleaned to prepare for head install, and also cleaned the piston tops. This took way longer than expected, using CRC gasket remover, and when that ran out, acetone, on the old head gasket.
The ring of carbon at the top of each cylinder partially, but not completely wipes off - the varnished remains will stay, unless there’s a reason, and a decent method to clean it off?
At a full stop until I have a new thread chaser delivered, as my ARP M10x1.25 chaser will not fit the head bolt holes. Will order M10x1.5.
Reinstalling the valley cover felt like positive progress at least.
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the deck surface needs to be a lot cleaner than that...
the carbon ring comes off with a red scotchbrite and more of the nasty CRC cleaner stuff...
'91 Dinan 860 Stage III (new 6L engine)
'91 Dinan 850 TT stage III (brand new engine) 21st Century Tech meets 18th Century Dinan...
'91 850i 6sp (mint) (sold)
'90 Dinan 750iL TT stage III (Guido - The Beast)
'94 850 CSi The Detroit Auto Show car (restored to factory perfect) (sold)
'96 850Ci, The George Carlin car
''73 3.0 csi, '08 535i, '03 X5 4.6is
...and a few other non BMW cars
Thanks Cartoonz - the deck feels smooth to the touch, but doesn’t look clean. I guess I should spend another couple of hours on it - more of the evil CRC stuff on the way!
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Using Cartoonz’ recommendation, I chased all 28 head bolt holes, then cleaned with brake fluid, and blew out with compressed air.
There was a lot of detritus released, which didn’t go into the bores!
After spending another couple of hours on the deck surface with more CRC gasket remover, it was time to bolt the heads back on. I was thoroughly sick of scrubbing and scraping, and ready to make some progress.
I will have to hope that the initial 30nm torque value is reasonably accurate given the Amazon origins of my torque wrench.
Subsequent 60degree torque angles were applied after 15 minute rest intervals using an angle gauge. In hind sight, I could have marked the angle out on some cardboard and saved some cash.
It hould all be reassembly from this point on.
Some light cleaning of the block, and then oil pans and timing cover installation.
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Nice Job!
Very labor intensive job for sure.
Looks like you are making good progress!
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Someone should build these for resale, IJS!...)
Thought about it, but its just so labor intensive, it would be quite expensive.
Two options, m73 block, m70 ported and polished heads with Sora performsnce headers. And possibly Debilas cams.
Another option is M73 heads and block with custom made downpipes.
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Interesting - I hadn’t seen those headers before. A nice looking alternative to supersprint (cheaper?)
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Schrick cams arrived today, a little over 3 months after I ordered them. This means I should be able have the engine completed this weekend with some luck and a tail wind.
Timing looks to be the main hurdle, along with filing some material away from the alternator mount.
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gladen-motorsport.de. The owner had Schrick make mine and a handful of other sets.
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I’m not sure if this was a one off small batch, or a regular run they would do for certain off catalogue items
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I laid out new lifters, rockers, and thrust adaptors, alongside the cams, and checked the torque spec needed to bolt the cams down.
With the engine on the stand for now, I approximated TDC, then dropped in the new components, using Permatex Ultra Slick assembly lube at contact points.
Not shown is the cam alignment tool, which I removed for the picture. The bolts securing the cam were torqued to 15 Nm and threadlocked, with the numbering running 1-7 front to back. Again, plenty of assembly lube was used.
I will not be painting the engine, but decided that the oil pan had seen better days. That led me to do the pulleys. The manifold heat shields were looking a little tired, so I hit them with some high temp pint.
Finally, as I had swapped my original pentosin oil cooler, which was warped, with a used (later) replacement, I gave that a shot of gloss black too.
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Wery nice! I already wrote to Gladenshop, it seems that they have some more pairs of Shrickcams on stock right now. What type of chip you will use? Thank you for info and good luck with final work on engine!
Last edited by thomascpthook; 08-03-2020 at 02:25 PM.
I have a set of Wokke V2 chips that I had planned to fit to my M70 before I had the change of plan and hybrid build. The engine will run on these, but not to its full potential.
I will probably contact Wokke to see if he has chips with the tune that he developed for his M70B54S project available for sale.
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Before I did my M70/M73 hybrid build, thats the only time I got a hold of Wokke. He did say he was super busy, and that was back in November of last year. I asked him couple months ago about if these Wokke chips he currently has would work, but never got a response.
That would be great if someone did this. I got mine done, and the car runs so much better. Granted my E31 never ran good. Anyway, will post everything about it at some point. I went the M73 heads route. Didnt replace the head gaskets as the engine only had 78k miles and it was tested. Sounds dumb but Iv taken the top end multiple times and for me thats probably just a 2 day job from start to finish if those take a crap lol. I had a completely custom exhaust made because I went with the M73 heads and didnt want to bother with the M70 exhaust manifolds. So I used the M73 manifolds. Custom downpipes. Came out about a ~$1,500 dollars or so less than a full complete supersprint exhaust.... *rip wallet*
I tried documenting my build but since Im not used to doing that I missed a lot of the documenting. I have time lapses of me doing stuff, few pictures. I was going to make a whole youtube series on that but I dropped the ball on that. If anyone has questions, feel free to ask, Ill try to help and remember what I did. I spend more time on the BMW E31 World Association facebook page than here. At this point you probably figured out who I am lol.
From February:
"Yes, I have a special mapping for the M70B54S. The engine runs with the V2 set but to take full advantage of the engine’s capabilities the special mapping is needed. Attached a dyno graph for your info.
I do have to purchase each chip separately from the tuner because due to expected volume it made no sense to me to buy a copy license as with the V2 chip set. The guy is charging €799,- excl. VAT (which won’t apply to you) so you my want to check what a local remapping may cost you."
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