What is my 750il worth?

[Bostonbruck]

Rear headrest motor... makes a grinding, clicking noise? There is a plastic part that breaks.

Yes. I have done some research on it. Plan on fixing it soon. Doesn't bother me too much, just maybe 5-10 seconds of noise during start up.

[aom7]

Hey guys. Thanks for the replies. I appreciate the criticism, and you pointing out everything that you see, as I would like to know about it myself. This is my first e38, so a lot of the things I didn't even notice (the headlights, turn signals, etc.) If you guys are interested, I can take more high quality photos and videos if you would like. I would be happy to talk about the care more. I know the v12 badges are cringe. I was going to take them off and revert it back to OEM but haven't yet. Same with the fake carbon fiber emblems. It makes the car look cheap.


Going on with the price. I really didn't want to post the price since people will look back when I go to sell the car, especially if it goes on BAT. I paid $10,500 for it. I thought I was getting a good deal. You guys may not think so. It was difficult to find. I wanted black/black sport with basically every option. No guys I'm not here to flip the car. I'm a BMW enthusiast and I like to buy and sell cars.. usually keep them a year or 2. Thought it would be a fun car to work on during the corona virus, and then go on a few road trips in the summer. I'm not looking for a "fun" car. I own a 2005 BMW M3 manual coupe. Jet black/Laguna seca blue interior. That's my fun car and is the reason why I didn't get a sport shorty. I really wanted the V12, and I needed a black interior.


Yes, the car does have shitty alignment up front. I just noticed it more when you guys pointed it out. It does have 1 accident on its record from 2003. However if you look past that, it does have a lot of things going for it. Last model year.. v12, sport appearance, lower miles, and the condition. I've seen many e38s and there are some trash ones out there. This one was kept in a garage, and not smoked in. Interior is very clean, headliner is spotless. All the windows are perfect. No pixels out anywhere. Nav screen is perfect. The door seals are mint. Not a single noticeable scratch on the car. No dent of any kind. Everything works, almost �� I need to fix the rear power headrest motor or whatever.. common problem obviously.

I'm going to drive it and enjoy it, whether it had an accident or not. It may bother you guys like crazy but I can get past it. I can't get any more info on the accident. It was a few owners ago. PO got it from a dealership about 5 years ago, it was listed at $15k. Let me know if you have any questions, maybe ill have to take a few videos for you guys.

Peace!

Thanks for your reply and don't worry about what YOU paid for it, that has no effect on what you can sell it for. And at the end of the day, THAT'S what it was worth to you. So you got it for what you wanted to pay for it, and that's a good deal in that respect.

I will say.. 10.5k is a lot. There is a Dinan supercharged 7 series that just sold for 13.5k with 53k miles on BaT... now THAT was undervalued by 4k, easily, because of COVID. This was over by about 3-4k because of the damages and pending issues.

I see you focus more on the mileage and condition rather than the history and pending issues. Unfortunately, that's not what most people of this vintage look for. They want Mint, ONE owner, No Accident, excellent mechanical/physical condition with TONS of preventative maintenance, and those are the ones willing to pay top dollar for it.

If you keep this car for 2 years and continue to drive it during that time, expect a lot of deferred maintenance and failures to come up, THAT'S what I mean by pending issues. Trust me, they are there. 100k is pretty much when gaskets and all the other things attached to the engine start breaking, esp. at this age, it probably already has leaks, but you haven't noticed it yet because it's not been driven (one of the worst things about BMWs, is they actually break MORE when they aren't driven regularly).

I have an E46 (including an M3) and there are known issues on that car that WILL fail, no matter how nice it looks. Like the Oil Filter Housing Gasket, lower oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets, Ignition coils, Power steering hoses, CPS, Starter motor, VANOS seals, washer pumps, Autodim rear mirror leak, Steering wheel coupler, Guibo, Rear subframe, Front Suspension Bushings, then maint items like the Valve Adjustment. And that was at less than 75k for most of those parts and mine is MINT if you went by the looks only... regardless, these things fail like clockwork.

If you've had your E46 long enough, you know these items are common and if they've not been replaced, they already probably need it. Same on the E38, those E38 items I listed are going to need replacement sooner rather than later, esp. if you start adding miles to it. So keep that in mind if you intend to drive it... you'll have a few grand coming due on repairs every year. It will make the E46 look like a Lexus in terms of reliability compared to the E38 (which as much as I do LOVE mine... it's NOT a reliable car at all.)

But life's short, so if you enjoy it, DRIVE it and just pay for the repairs when they come due (set aside 2k/yr). STILL cheaper than a car payment. Here's my M3 with the issues I mentioned having been fixed. You'd never be able to tell by the condition that it needed that kind of maintenance... but there you go.

[Bostonbruck]

But life's short, so if you enjoy it, DRIVE it and just pay for the repairs when they come due (set aside 2k/yr). STILL cheaper than a car payment. Here's my M3 with the issues I mentioned having been fixed. You'd never be able to tell by the condition that it needed that kind of maintenance... but there you go.

Yeah I know a lot about the e46 common problems, as I've had a few. just got my rearview mirror back from radar mirror, they fixed it. On the common problems I'm surprised you didn't mention the vanos exhaust hub, rod bearings, cooling, etc etc I guess there is many of them. I honestly thought the e38 would be somewhat reliable with the mileage being low, but I know sitting isn't good for the car. I know the PO did give it exercise weekly. I hope I don't run into that many problems in a short amount of time. If you were me what would you do to the car? The amount I paid may be high to you but at the same time, there's not a single 750il for sale in the USA that matches my criteria. They are rare...… I am interested to learn more about the common problems of the e38, and I know some of them are the same as what can happen on the e46 (mirror for example). I am shocked that you guys could tell the alignment in the front was so bad. I didn't even notice it, and I am going to do more inspection.

- - - Updated - - -

Next time its in the shop ill have them check out the misaligned front bumper and see if its fixable. any thoughts?

[COOPERDB]

`

Hey guys. Thanks for the replies. I appreciate the criticism, and you pointing out everything that you see, as I would like to know about it myself. This is my first e38, so a lot of the things I didn't even notice (the headlights, turn signals, etc.) If you guys are interested, I can take more high quality photos and videos if you would like. I would be happy to talk about the care more. I know the v12 badges are cringe. I was going to take them off and revert it back to OEM but haven't yet. Same with the fake carbon fiber emblems. It makes the car look cheap.


Going on with the price. I really didn't want to post the price since people will look back when I go to sell the car, especially if it goes on BAT. I paid $10,500 for it. I thought I was getting a good deal. You guys may not think so. It was difficult to find. I wanted black/black sport with basically every option. No guys I'm not here to flip the car. I'm a BMW enthusiast and I like to buy and sell cars.. usually keep them a year or 2. Thought it would be a fun car to work on during the corona virus, and then go on a few road trips in the summer. I'm not looking for a "fun" car. I own a 2005 BMW M3 manual coupe. Jet black/Laguna seca blue interior. That's my fun car and is the reason why I didn't get a sport shorty. I really wanted the V12, and I needed a black interior.


Yes, the car does have shitty alignment up front. I just noticed it more when you guys pointed it out. It does have 1 accident on its record from 2003. However if you look past that, it does have a lot of things going for it. Last model year.. v12, sport appearance, lower miles, and the condition. I've seen many e38s and there are some trash ones out there. This one was kept in a garage, and not smoked in. Interior is very clean, headliner is spotless. All the windows are perfect. No pixels out anywhere. Nav screen is perfect. The door seals are mint. Not a single noticeable scratch on the car. No dent of any kind. Everything works, almost �� I need to fix the rear power headrest motor or whatever.. common problem obviously.

I'm going to drive it and enjoy it, whether it had an accident or not. It may bother you guys like crazy but I can get past it. I can't get any more info on the accident. It was a few owners ago. PO got it from a dealership about 5 years ago, it was listed at $15k. Let me know if you have any questions, maybe ill have to take a few videos for you guys.

Peace!

For some reason I am unable to read post #24 -

The only words I can make out are the two words

showing in bright green -

I have never encountered a forum post like this before -

If anyone else can read this post could you please tell

me if the OP states what he paid for his 750iL so we can

tell him if he got a good deal -


Thank-You
D.B.


.

[Bostonbruck]

`





For some reason I am unable to read post #24 -

The only words I can make out are the two words

showing in bright green -

I have never encountered a forum post like this before -

If anyone else can read this post could you please tell

me if the OP states what he paid for his 750iL so we can

tell him if he got a good deal -


Thank-You
D.B.


.

$10.5k usd

The post might have done that because I copy and pasted the text. I removed the formatting and it should be good now.

[aom7]

Yeah I know a lot about the e46 common problems, as I've had a few. just got my rearview mirror back from radar mirror, they fixed it. On the common problems I'm surprised you didn't mention the vanos exhaust hub, rod bearings, cooling, etc etc I guess there is many of them. I honestly thought the e38 would be somewhat reliable with the mileage being low, but I know sitting isn't good for the car. I know the PO did give it exercise weekly. I hope I don't run into that many problems in a short amount of time. If you were me what would you do to the car? The amount I paid may be high to you but at the same time, there's not a single 750il for sale in the USA that matches my criteria. They are rare...… I am interested to learn more about the common problems of the e38, and I know some of them are the same as what can happen on the e46 (mirror for example). I am shocked that you guys could tell the alignment in the front was so bad. I didn't even notice it, and I am going to do more inspection.

- - - Updated - - -

Next time its in the shop ill have them check out the misaligned front bumper and see if its fixable. any thoughts?

Well I mean I had to stop typing at some point, lol! In fact just as the list is longer on the E46, it's easily double what I wrote for the E38s. If you don't drive it, you won't notice many of those issues, but then what's the point of having it. If you end up putting 10k/yr, those issues will crop up very quickly. Mostly gasket issues or anything with a seal or anything made from plastic (yes, including the entire cooling system), since BMW plastics are terrible and they break down first, regardless of mileage. It's age that breaks these rubbers/plastics down. I can guarantee you most all your gaskets are rock hard at this point. A cooling system refresh would be 1k and I can guarantee you, it's past due for it.

I think there is an E38 buying guide sticky somewhere on here, very informative and includes all the common issues. Oh, it's good you brought it up to us first, if you're shocked about the alignment, you can imagine that BaTers would tear this car apart. And all you need is one person pointing something like that out and the rest of the group will shy away. They're pretty bad on there (but for good reason).

Depends on the shop. If its a mechanics shop, probably not fixable... There's a skill that differentiates mechanics from body repairers and the two are never the same. To do it right, that car needs to be put "on the rack" to be sure the frame is straight, then most of the front end parts loosened, then put back on.

The pass signal light pulling away from the fender at the bottom and squeezed up again the headlight really tightly is NOT a good sign though, especially how the fender bulges out at the bottom, away from the signal. Also notice how the pass turn signal is closer to the center of the car/grills.. almost sunken into the fender by a few mms? Then notice how the Driver signal is almost sticking out, away from the fender? NOT GOOD.

There are these rotating rubber screws under the front of the hood. You can turn those to raise/lower the hood relative to the fender lines. HOWEVER, on the pass side, if you lowered the screw so that it sat a little more level with that corner of the fender, (almost like how it's lower on the driver side), it would then end up sitting too low relative to the pass fender. So there's something going on here.

Also, get them to run a paint gauge so you can see what panels were repainted. I'm sure it's at least the entire front end.

The thing about body panel gaps and alignments is that if you move one thing to get it to align, you generally need to compensate it someplace else. If the underlying structure isn't "true" then you'll never get it to align. Bring it to a good body shop and ask them.. they'll know how these are taken apart and put back together. They will probably also be able to tell you WHY it's aligned poorly like that.

[aom7]

Also, Rarity doesn't always equate to Valuable. Enjoy it because it's what you wanted and you found it, but don't expect to be able to sell it for more than you paid for it, esp. with probably every single part on it still being original. To keep it on the road and be a reliable daily driver for the next 2 years, it's going to be at least ~2k right now (I'd say entire cooling system AND Tires if they're older than 3-4 years, then Trans filter/fluid and a full fluid replacement baseline: Rear Diff, oil, brake, steering, etc), then 2k every year after that. And that's pretty much at DIY prices.

DON'T take it to a dealer, unless you want to spend 2k for them to just whisper "750il" to you. Find a good indy for the stuff you can't handle. You probably already have one from owning the E46.

[aom7]

Oh, here's a fun read. This was just posted, look at the work done in just in the first 70k miles (it's part of the pictures).

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2001-bmw-740i-59/

Almost everything is the same parts as on the 750il. Also, even though this one has 7 owners, 97k miles, it's a Sporty with PDC and Sunshade, no accidents, but the smaller NAV screen.

[nmlss2006]

FYI, there were at least four 750iLs which sold for 'over $8-9k' from the beginning of 2018 to the end of 2019, with publicly accessible data - that I know of. There possibly were three more, but I have less firm data on those. There could, of course, be others yet.

I am not saying they were necessarily worth that, but since you've been tracking the prices of these for the last 15+ years you many want to adjust your dataset accordingly.

I'd also be somewhat hesitant in evaluating the quality of a repair job on an E38 based on how the turn signal indicators, the hood and the profiles under the headlights fit due to how these are fixed to the rest of the car. It would be significantly better to view the car in person as I am sure you're aware.

I shall add, for further clarity, that I concur on the fact that $10.5k is more than I would have paid on the car but there are a lot of questions that were not asked, among them 'what documented maintenance has been performed?'.

Honestly, the thing that would have concerned me the most is the cluster.

[aom7]

FYI, there were at least four 750iLs which sold for 'over $8-9k' from the beginning of 2018 to the end of 2019, with publicly accessible data - that I know of. There possibly were three more, but I have less firm data on those. There could, of course, be others yet.

I am not saying they were necessarily worth that, but since you've been tracking the prices of these for the last 15+ years you many want to adjust your dataset accordingly.

I'd also be somewhat hesitant in evaluating the quality of a repair job on an E38 based on how the turn signal indicators, the hood and the profiles under the headlights fit due to how these are fixed to the rest of the car. It would be significantly better to view the car in person as I am sure you're aware.

I shall add, for further clarity, that I concur on the fact that $10.5k is more than I would have paid on the car but there are a lot of questions that were not asked, among them 'what documented maintenance has been performed?'.

Honestly, the thing that would have concerned me the most is the cluster.

NOT with close to 70k+ miles, with multiple owners and body damage necessitating panel replacements with probably an unknown maint history. Got to compare apples to apples here.

Yes, would be nice to get under the hood and panels to see how bad the repairs were, but I'd been in the business long enough to know (esp. of this vintage) what repairs SHOULD look like. This isn't it. If this is what I can tell from some OK quality photos... you probably wouldn't want me to actually be up close and personal. It can only get worse, lol.

The cluster would be the least of my concerns. Cooling system, gaskets/seals would be first. THAT's the stuff that can leave you stranded or blowing a headgasket (which IS a failure point on the M73, just like the M62 and TCG).

We can both agree 10.5k (I'm assuming that's before tax too), is too high. I'd go further and say that there's probably no additional information that would make it worth more... but probably only worth less (deferred maintenance, etc).

[alexisonfire]

I agree dang 10.5k was definitely high. But it is still a very beautiful survivor!

[franco90]

`





For some reason I am unable to read post #24 -

The only words I can make out are the two words

showing in bright green -

I have never encountered a forum post like this before -

If anyone else can read this post could you please tell

me if the OP states what he paid for his 750iL so we can

tell him if he got a good deal -


Thank-You
D.B.


.

Hey guys. Thanks for the replies. I appreciate the criticism, and you pointing out everything that you see, as I would like to know about it myself. This is my first e38, so a lot of the things I didn't even notice (the headlights, turn signals, etc.) If you guys are interested, I can take more high quality photos and videos if you would like. I would be happy to talk about the care more. I know the v12 badges are cringe. I was going to take them off and revert it back to OEM but haven't yet. Same with the fake carbon fiber emblems. It makes the car look cheap.


Going on with the price. I really didn't want to post the price since people will look back when I go to sell the car, especially if it goes on BAT. I paid $10,500 for it. I thought I was getting a good deal. You guys may not think so. It was difficult to find. I wanted black/black sport with basically every option. No guys I'm not here to flip the car. I'm a BMW enthusiast and I like to buy and sell cars.. usually keep them a year or 2. Thought it would be a fun car to work on during the corona virus, and then go on a few road trips in the summer. I'm not looking for a "fun" car. I own a 2005 BMW M3 manual coupe. Jet black/Laguna seca blue interior. That's my fun car and is the reason why I didn't get a sport shorty. I really wanted the V12, and I needed a black interior.


Yes, the car does have shitty alignment up front. I just noticed it more when you guys pointed it out. It does have 1 accident on its record from 2003. However if you look past that, it does have a lot of things going for it. Last model year.. v12, sport appearance, lower miles, and the condition. I've seen many e38s and there are some trash ones out there. This one was kept in a garage, and not smoked in. Interior is very clean, headliner is spotless. All the windows are perfect. No pixels out anywhere. Nav screen is perfect. The door seals are mint. Not a single noticeable scratch on the car. No dent of any kind. Everything works, almost �� I need to fix the rear power headrest motor or whatever.. common problem obviously.

I'm going to drive it and enjoy it, whether it had an accident or not. It may bother you guys like crazy but I can get past it. I can't get any more info on the accident. It was a few owners ago. PO got it from a dealership about 5 years ago, it was listed at $15k. Let me know if you have any questions, maybe ill have to take a few videos for you guys.

Peace!

Last edited by Bostonbruck; Yesterday at 01:25 AM. Reason: Fixed an issue

[goinstrong]

You all have better eyes than me. It looks like the front end hit was on the right passenger side more than the driver side. The line for the hood and fender seem to match up pretty well, especially vs the passenger side. I have never had a V12 nor a Vanos E38, so I can't speak to their reliability except what others have reported. I WILL say I have found the non vanos M62 and the M60 to be quite reliable. Yes, valve cover gaskets are a given as well as some cooling components. Same story for virtually all BMWs of this vintage...
But, the body style is timeless and is one of, if not the most favorite of mine, especially with the M parallels. I am always on the lookout for "another" one much to my wife's dismay.
OP, the black on black is by far the best color combo with this body style, so drive the heck out of it and enjoy it. I hope you are able to sort out the alignment issues and avoid some of the other issues that usually show up.

[COOPERDB]

`


You can always count on the USMC to get things done -

Thanks Franco -


Thank-You
D.B.


.

[clarkitect]

Drive it and enjoy it. If some stuff is out of alignment, fiddle around with it and align it. I can barely tell, and you sure as hell don't notice from the driver's seat.

I paid like $3700 for my shorty sport, but that number has multiplied a few times in the last 5 years of ownership. If you paid "too much" but the car is sorted and reliable, that initial cost will seem like a bargain in the years to come.

And BAT is picky as hell by the way. Not every car gets accepted. So drive and enjoy, and it's still way cheaper than a new Corolla.

[nmlss2006]

NOT with close to 70k+ miles, with multiple owners and body damage necessitating panel replacements with probably an unknown maint history. Got to compare apples to apples here.

Well, you said you didn't know of any, so I thought I'd point it out.

Yes, would be nice to get under the hood and panels to see how bad the repairs were, but I'd been in the business long enough to know (esp. of this vintage) what repairs SHOULD look like. This isn't it. If this is what I can tell from some OK quality photos... you probably wouldn't want me to actually be up close and personal. It can only get worse, lol.

That may be the case. However, if the headlights and/or the turn signals were misaligned sometime after the fact and one of the hood 'bumpers' were KO the car would look the same WITHOUT the rest of the repair being particularly bad, thus I would not be comfortable making absolute pronouncements.

The cluster would be the least of my concerns. Cooling system, gaskets/seals would be first. THAT's the stuff that can leave you stranded or blowing a headgasket (which IS a failure point on the M73, just like the M62 and TGU).

The cluster is a concern because someone who's willing to put a (fake or real) E39 cluster in an E38 is probably someone who doesn't quite appreciate how these cars should be maintained. Am I generalising? Absolutely. Have I been proven wrong? Not yet - and I've seen my share of BMWs, both mine and other people's.

We can both agree 10.5k (I'm assuming that's before tax too), is too high. I'd go further and say that there's probably no additional information that would make it worth more... but probably only worth less (deferred maintenance, etc).

Oh yes. Now, if there were a long list of maintenance performed, possibly even including an SLS/EDC overhaul due to age (I have seen it done twice - once on a 750 that I bought for that reason, among others), the value would be 'more favourable'. If there was no history of work done whatsoever, well, it's worse (euphemism).
And I have learned that even receipts are better double-checked... sometimes through no fault of the owners.

[Bostonbruck]

When it comes to maintenance, the previous owner did tires, fluids, filters,, brakes, maf sensor, batteries. The carfax has many inspections and general maintenance, but nothing too major. I might do the cooling system myself.

Just 4K miles ago at 65k, the car was fully inspected by a Bmw dealer. They checked the engine and electronics. Ya it’s a dealer... take that with a grain of salt.I still believe the car if undervalued. Other similar 750il models miles sell for 5-6k. Mine has 68k. Some people make the biggest deal out of an accident. It could even be small. What if the PO just hit a parked car in a parking lot at 5mph? We really don’t know, and it’s hard to say. If anybody can post here 750il models that sold or are for sale that would be great.

When it comes to SLS/EDC I’m just going to wait for them to fail, since they may last a long time (you never know) but I am reading threads and getting started on maintaining this vehicle.

[aom7]

The cluster is a concern because someone who's willing to put a (fake or real) E39 cluster in an E38 is probably someone who doesn't quite appreciate how these cars should be maintained. Am I generalising? Absolutely. Have I been proven wrong? Not yet - and I've seen my share of BMWs, both mine and other people's.
.

I've redone my cluster to include brushed aluminum rings, so I'm not as sensitive to that. Also cluster repairs are pretty common at this point, so it's not too difficult to upgrade pieces while at it. I can only hope it's not got a tamper dot on the odometer though, OP, you might want to confirm that. I'd think since you pulled the info on it, you'd have seen if the odo was rolled back.

Also on the alignment, I stand by my statement. It coincides with the known panel replacement. I was the only person on this thread that managed to point it out first. AND I'd go one step further, based on my actual body shop experience: go ahead and try to mess up the front headlight/turn signal/fender alignment on your E38 (assuming it's not had front end bodywork done), like this car has. I'd say it'd be pretty impossible to get it to look THIS badly if the underlying structure is true/straight. I've actually pulled off the entire front end of E38s, numerous times, messing up the alignment where the fender is actually bowing away from the turn signal AND everything else I mentioned is almost impossible on a no-accident car.

Finally, unless the OP purchased this car 1 year ago or even 6 months ago, with current prevailing COVID pricing in the past 2-3 months and probably going into some time from now (economic recovery is probably going to take a year or two), this car was overpriced. That's both the board consensus on this thread AND current market values in the past 2 months, those facts are undeniable.

[aom7]

When it comes to maintenance, the previous owner did tires, fluids, filters,, brakes, maf sensor, batteries. The carfax has many inspections and general maintenance, but nothing too major. I might do the cooling system myself.

Just 4K miles ago at 65k, the car was fully inspected by a Bmw dealer. They checked the engine and electronics. Ya it’s a dealer... take that with a grain of salt.I still believe the car if undervalued. Other similar 750il models miles sell for 5-6k. Mine has 68k. Some people make the biggest deal out of an accident. It could even be small. What if the PO just hit a parked car in a parking lot at 5mph? We really don’t know, and it’s hard to say. If anybody can post here 750il models that sold or are for sale that would be great.

Sorry Boston, but a 5mph impact would never cause this level of misalignment and would probably not even necessitate any repairs, much less panels actually being replaced as per your history report. An impact, requiring any panel replacement, would have been much more significant.

Also, don't put much value on a dealer "inspection" unless it's a PPI. I've worked with dealers before and all those "inspections" they do are purely cursory. Unless something is lit up, smoking or melting, they typically don't find anything. Esp. if they're not familiar with these cars. Most dealer mechanics nowadays can't diagnose a paper cut. Unless a computer read out tells them something, they'll not catch anything. The lack of any "major" work is a bad thing. That means all the expensive bits are waiting to fail.

I'm just telling it like it is since you asked. Just like an E46... this one is WILL have a decent share of issues in the next 15-30k miles.

That said, do the cooling system then just either drive it and enjoy it, but understand you'll depreciate it even further and will have to put some $$ into it every year. Or just leave it alone and sell it in a year or two when this stuff is all over. You won't get your money back, but at least you won't have to put more into it.

[Bostonbruck]

I will be posting more pictures soon of the front end (up close) and under the hood. It seems as if almost all 750il are “over priced” as long as they are in good shape. Unfortunately they just don’t shown up for sale often, and when they do, they are most likely shit. I’ve seen some bad ones, crappy interior, faded plastic, burn holes in weather stripping, I can go on and on.. I guess I paid more for the condition, and low miles. But seriously.. I’d like to see some comparable cars.. I totally understand your point of view but honesty, what you’re “willing” to pay for this car is impossible to get. Nobody would ever sell it that low. In Cali a Similar car with 90k miles and the guy was asking $14k. And it had a good dent in the back.

New pics of my car car will be coming in about an hour or 2, for further inspection.

[aom7]

I will be posting more pictures soon of the front end (up close) and under the hood. It seems as if almost all 750il are “over priced” as long as they are in good shape. Unfortunately they just don’t shown up for sale often, and when they do, they are most likely shit. I’ve seen some bad ones, crappy interior, faded plastic, burn holes in weather stripping, I can go on and on.. I guess I paid more for the condition, and low miles. But seriously.. I’d like to see some comparable cars.. I totally understand your point of view but honesty, what you’re “willing” to pay for this car is impossible to get. Nobody would ever sell it that low. In Cali a Similar car with 90k miles and the guy was asking $14k. And it had a good dent in the back.

New pics of my car car will be coming in about an hour or 2, for further inspection.

Like has been said before, a car is only worth what someone is wiling to pay for it. NOT what someone is asking for it. In your case, it's worth 10.5k since that's what you paid for it. Also, Cali cars are unique in that they command higher prices typically due to weather (rain), lack of rust, no snow, no salt and favorable driving conditions (fewer potholes) etc. The easiest solution is to spend 5 bucks and post it on craigslist for 10.5k (or more) and see how many takers you have. If you do have someone that wants to pay 10.5k or more, then I'd actually say sell it, lol.

Finding a comparable car, that has just sold with the same general miles and accident history might be difficult if not impossible as there just aren't very many 750s to begin with. But why does it matter what it's worth to someone else? You're planning on keeping it and weren't planning on flipping it and it's what you wanted to spend. Just enjoy it.

[SwallownAmazon]

Just enjoy it.

Absolutely! I had known my car for ten years as it was owned by a friend. I coveted it from the day I saw it and was very fortunate to be able to buy it from his executor (another old friend) when Geoff died very suddenly three years ago. I have spent a bit on it since I bought it and there are a few niggly electronic faults but both I and the lady wife love it to bits. The Titan has done over 160,000 miles now and should be good for the same again as we treat it fairly gently as befits an old gentleman.

[nmlss2006]

I've redone my cluster to include brushed aluminum rings, so I'm not as sensitive to that. Also cluster repairs are pretty common at this point, so it's not too difficult to upgrade pieces while at it.

Maybe. But that looks like an M5 (or an M5 lookalike) cluster and it has been my experience that buying a car from the crowd who would put an M5 cluster in an E38 is not a wise decision. No causation but enough correlation to cause me to stay away.

Also on the alignment, I stand by my statement. It coincides with the known panel replacement. I was the only person on this thread that managed to point it out first. AND I'd go one step further, based on my actual body shop experience: go ahead and try to mess up the front headlight/turn signal/fender alignment on your E38 (assuming it's not had front end bodywork done), like this car has. I'd say it'd be pretty impossible to get it to look THIS badly if the underlying structure is true/straight. I've actually pulled off the entire front end of E38s, numerous times, messing up the alignment where the fender is actually bowing away from the turn signal AND everything else I mentioned is almost impossible on a no-accident car.

I will abide by your superior experience, it's certainly a meaningful coincidence, I will not deny that.

Finally, unless the OP purchased this car 1 year ago or even 6 months ago, with current prevailing COVID pricing in the past 2-3 months and probably going into some time from now (economic recovery is probably going to take a year or two), this car was overpriced. That's both the board consensus on this thread AND current market values in the past 2 months, those facts are undeniable.

And this we have agreed upon from the start, certainly. OP, drive the car and enjoy it. The valuation... well, you've heard a lot of commentary by now.

Oh also. DO NOT wait for the SLS to fail. Replace the rear accumulators and the rear shocks won't fail.

[Obioban]

What's wrong with the e39 cluster in the e38? I like the warm up light functionality/

[Grady in Texas]

aom7 - Boy, do have an eye for this! I saw the passenger side hood/headlight gap but even with your notes and drawing I can hardly see the rest (on my laptop anyway).

I see silver trim on the the gauges. Was that a factory offering or does it mean they were added when the pixels were fixed? (that is when mine were added.)