If you have access to a smoke machine that is the route. But most garages use propane over brake fluid as its safer. But both will work to help find a leak.
Sprayed everything didn't find any
Is the in-line (external) fuel pump the same pump that the engine ran good with?
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yes
but i have to have two of the hooked up together. one is the stock the car came with the other is a ford ranger in line
Where do I check fuel pressure and much is it supposed to be
Fuel system pressure (~65-75 psi) can be measured at the fuel inlet of the fuel distributor. Must be banjo type fitting to allow normal fuel flow (we are not measuring fuel pump pressure, we are measuring fuel 'system pressure').
Like this:::
Pressure guage on the Left. Fuel inlet of the fuel distributor on the Right.
Use the copper seal-rings as needed on both sides of the fuel supply pipe.
*for test purposes only, not as permanent fixture...
click to enlarge.
fuelsystester.jpg
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That's where the fuel line from tank connects to the fuel distributor. It's 60 coming out of injector outlet
The injector port pressure is not equivalent to the fuel 'system' pressure.
Fuel 'system' pressure is controlled by the fuel pressure control valve, inside the fuel distributor (accessible externally)..
Testing fuel 'system' pressure is most accurately tested at the inlet to the fuel distributor, as I described in my previous comment.
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i tried working on it today.it reved up but after a couple of min. it stoped reving up and wont do it again. when i start it it kinda of revs a little than goes down to idle. at one point i could hold throttle open and itll run rough than if i let the throttle down a little it kinda of revs than runs rough.
so i disconnteced the injector lines from the distribtor and no fuel coming out. i ve took the p[lunger out cleaned with choke cleaner and put it back in and nothing i really need help with this. im now thinking about swapping it to carberated in take or making some thing to adapt to throttlebody to run carb
Fuel is not suppose to come out of the injector ports on the fuel distributor, unless the air meter plate is raised.
I still do not understand why the additional (ford) in-line fuel pump was added.
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i had to hook up to pumps because the gas origanal gas tank has been removed and im using a race gas tank and if i unhook either pump the car dies. i was out earlier working on it and it was reving up and running great. than it started to crap out and wont rev. i sprayed carb cleaner looking for leaks didn't find any but noticed when the carb cleaner hit the throttle boby it bubbled and it was hot to the touch. could this be part of the issue and what is the flat head screw on the throttle body for?
The flat head screw on the TB is for idle speed. This flat head screw is not air/fuel ratio.
The TB has engine coolant running through it, anti-freeze for super cold climates.
Is there any smoke out the tail pipe and what color?
There is a warm-up circuit for the smog and ignition timing controls. For trouble-shooting purposes, disconnect and plug the vacuum hoses to the EGR and ignition distributor. It's possible that one of these circuits are not connected properly or malfunctioning.
* have you serviced/replaced the ignition points and condenser?
In-line fuel pumps cannot suck or pump through each other when one is 'electrically' disconnected.
Assuming the 'race gas tank' is in the trunk, the original in-line pump is all that's needed- assuming it's a good pump. Be aware that any change of the fuel system will most likely require adjustments to the 3mm fuel mix screw inside the air meter box (CW = more fuel, CCW = less fuel). This 3mm fuel mix screw is very sensitive to adjustments. Assuming adjustments are required - Record adjustments, adjust in very small 1/16 turn increments.
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Points are good
NO!
Please take a peek in the FAQ / DIY thread.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...and-DIYs-lt-lt
Last edited by epmedia; 05-07-2020 at 02:30 PM.
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