My 1999 M3 Progress Thread

[sirhodjibob]

A few updates-
-Ordered Bosch H7 headlights from Schmeidmann- received H1 Depos instead . Those will be for sale shortly. Still figuring out which way to go now on these.
-Ordered and received every part needed to refresh the rear subframe and suspension. Every nut bolt I could think of. I'm procrastinating on the install because I don't care to work on the car when it's this cold. I'll put together the parts list shortly. All OEM stuff here to preserve ride quality.
-EAG's bodyshop team making nice progress on the clubsport wing. Apparently it's the same material as the Z8's hardtop which they repair frequently. If they can save it I'll spring for the full GT front splitter to compliment it. Should know by next week for sure.

[sirhodjibob]

Tangential, but I rented an Alfa Romeo Giulia Q2 (loaded with literally every option..but most crucially with the LSD and adjustable shocks and 19s) which was the car I considered before my E36 M3. I would say the car journalists are mostly right, but my opinion differed in 3 areas
-Some complained about the ride quality- I thought it was fantastic. Could be due to the optional shocks I had.
-Some complained about rough shifts in Dynamic mode- I thought it made the car more fun and was kinda cool, if impractical
-Many praised the 4 cyl engine- I found it dull and uninspiring, although a competent performer

Pros:
-Ridiculously quick steering. Felt quicker than how I remember my AP1 S2000
-The ZF 8 speed is the best automatic I've ever driven by a long shot. It's very smooth and shifts as fast as a dual clutch, no exaggeration. In Dynamic mode it bangs shifts like an old school single clutch/F1 style transmission. It gives it a bit of drama that a lot of dual clutch cars miss which I enjoyed.
-It does the luxury car thing pretty well- smooth, quiet, and rides well, while maintaining agile handling. The seats, steering wheel, and giant aluminum paddle shifters were all very nice.
-It would obviously leave my M3 in the dust in any sort of competitive driving

Cons:
-Has the thick A pillars and high belt line and cowl that almost all modern cars have, reducing visibility.
-Compared to any analog BMW the feedback is just not there. The car just feels disconnected in terms of steering, suspension (relatively speaking). While the car is tuned very well, you can't escape the fact there is software between your every input (including the brakes on this one!)
-The engine, while it has torque everywhere and is surprisingly smooth, is uninspiring. No cool turbo noises or exhaust burbles here. It revs quickly but stops at 6k.

Long story short, we are all well justified in being bitter clingers to our old BMWs or whatever other analog car you like. If you must have a new(er) car, I would take the Giulia over the current 3 series in a heartbeat. But even in the daily grind, the E36 M3 is just plain more fun.

[bmwstephen]

curious why you selected the Bosch h7s instead of the h1s? I found out that the innner lenses were plastic on h7's you'll need to find HELLA versions which the inner lenses are glass

also material and chemical is the body shop using for the repair?

[sirhodjibob]

curious why you selected the Bosch h7s instead of the h1s? I found out that the innner lenses were plastic on h7's you'll need to find bosch versions which the inner lenses are glass

also material and chemical is the body shop using for the repair?

Just based on reviews I've seen, the OEM H7s provide better light output over the standard H1s (that's without a modern HID retrofit). It makes sense since the H7 came on the later model E36s and are more modern. And yes, the Bosch's were what I had ordered but did not receive.

[sirhodjibob]

Latest updates. I pulled the trigger on an Alfa Romeo Giulia so the M3 has been a little bit on the back burner in terms of getting parts installed. For those that care it's a TI Lusso with Performance Package (LSD and adaptive shocks) in Rosso Competizione TriCoat. That will be getting a paint correction, coating, wheels, coilovers, exhaust, tune and done.

-Spoiler repair has gone well and will be painted soon. Car will be dropped off at EAG for installation.
-Rear suspension/subframe overhaul coming soon as well. All parts are here
-This gloriousness arrived. Supersprint Sport muffler.

[jbshin]

The work that you have been doing gave me an inspiration to work on my car. I am just about finished collecting exterior trim parts for having the car repainted. Although, like you, I bought a car that could potentially replace this one, so need to rethink my long term plan somewhat. I would love to see your car in person at some point, if possible as I am also in NOVA.

John

[sirhodjibob]

The work that you have been doing gave me an inspiration to work on my car. I am just about finished collecting exterior trim parts for having the car repainted. Although, like you, I bought a car that could potentially replace this one, so need to rethink my long term plan somewhat. I would love to see your car in person at some point, if possible as I am also in NOVA.

John

Glad to here this has been of help. The Giulia won’t be replacing the M3- it’s too different of a driving experience. I’ve certainly thought of other cars but in terms of pure fun it is hard to beat. I actually enjoy driving the E36 more than my old modded Z4M. The ZHP rack + fresh shifter + fresh suspension just transformed this car.

Where are you getting your car painted? I’ve kicked around repainting this BRG but the cost of doing it properly is prohibitive, plus my paint is in pretty good shape.

Be happy to meet up, is cars and coffee back on yet?

[jbshin]

My car sat outside most of its life and while I did replace rubber trims 6-7 years ago, they are cracking again and the body has quite a few dents and scratches as well as minor damage that can't be fixed by dent repair. I visited BMW of Fairfax body shop as well as D&V in Sterling. They both quoted around 11k for complete exterior repaint with parts. Since I am sourcing the parts, I will save about 1k or so? One of the NCC HPDE instructors had his 95 repaired at the Fairfax body shop and while I did not go through it extensively, they seem to have done a good job, but they took time doing it. I am told it took 6+ months due to working between their normal insurance claimed accident repair works. Since it won't be my daily any longer, it does not concern me much.

While I live just a few miles from the Katie's, I haven been their in a while and not sure if people are getting together. Katie's isn't holding the event but I hear people were still showing up for a while.

[sirhodjibob]

My car sat outside most of its life and while I did replace rubber trims 6-7 years ago, they are cracking again and the body has quite a few dents and scratches as well as minor damage that can't be fixed by dent repair. I visited BMW of Fairfax body shop as well as D&V in Sterling. They both quoted around 11k for complete exterior repaint with parts. Since I am sourcing the parts, I will save about 1k or so? One of the NCC HPDE instructors had his 95 repaired at the Fairfax body shop and while I did not go through it extensively, they seem to have done a good job, but they took time doing it. I am told it took 6+ months due to working between their normal insurance claimed accident repair works. Since it won't be my daily any longer, it does not concern me much.

While I live just a few miles from the Katie's, I haven been their in a while and not sure if people are getting together. Katie's isn't holding the event but I hear people were still showing up for a while.

'

Yep $11k is about what I was expecting. I know D&V is a top notch shop and is who RRT recommends. I haven't asked EAG what they would charge but i am sure it isn't cheap.

Send me a PM if you want to link up sometime.

[bmwahba46]

Been awhile since I've updated. Been a frustrating past few weeks to say the least.

-Found a leak from the aluminum thermostat housing. Tried replacing with a new OEM plastic one from the dealer but cracked it when tightening (yes, using a torque wrench to spec). Found a thread on here that stated BMW changed the supplier for the thermostat housing gasket, which was thicker and causing cracks. Tracked down the old style Elring thermostat housing gasket and ordered another new OEM thermostat housing. This combination worked and did not leak.
-Thermostat then seemed to be stuck open (had no heat). Not sure why, I replaced it a few months ago when I did the cooling system overhaul. Took off the thermostat housing again, and replaced it with an OEM 88* one this time. Heat returned!
-Also was getting the 'check coolant level' warning on the OBC despite full coolant. Replaced the level sensor with an OEM BMW one from dealer which solved the issue.

Now on to good news,





ZHP rack installed and feels fantastic. Bolts in exactly the same as the original E36 rack. Steering is noticeably more responsive and turns in more quickly. No dead spot on center. with all the good things you'd expect from a quicker rack. Also replaced:
-32311092949 steering U joint
-32311122041 & 07129922716 U joint nuts & bolts
-32106781639 & 33306760587 steering rack nuts & bolts
-07119904633 steering cooler bolts
-32216756327 tie rod end nuts
-Meyle tie rod ends

Had the front end aligned after this as well (zero'd out toe).

Currently sitting in a box:
-Meyle HD front sway bar end links
-31351135805 front sway bar bushings
-07119905515 sway bar nuts
-35411163228 throttle cable
-65718380077 cruise control cable
-35411100674 thottle pedal bushing
-35411113728 other throttle pedal bushings
-35411152331 grommet for throttle cable
-Garagistic billet aluminum throttle cable bushings

Just curious, you had to use the E36 outer tie rods to make the ZHP rack work? I believe I had to do that one mine.

[sirhodjibob]

Yes, new E36 outers and E46 inners.

[sirhodjibob]

New pressure washer.


Also ordered OEM front splitter set up form the LTW/GT

Spoiler is painted and will be installed shortly once it is finished curing.

[cool2seat]

When you get your new wing on ping me, I'm looking for an OEM Cosmos one when you're ready to sell yours.

[notMpowered]

What did EAG use to repair the wing? Was it broken all the way through? I have a small crack in mine and trying to figure out what to do. Whether thats cut and fill, or just a bit of glue injected and filler.

[sirhodjibob]

When you get your new wing on ping me, I'm looking for an OEM Cosmos one when you're ready to sell yours.

Will do! I may just get an entire new trunk to mount the wing to but TBD. Either way I'll message you.

What did EAG use to repair the wing? Was it broken all the way through? I have a small crack in mine and trying to figure out what to do. Whether thats cut and fill, or just a bit of glue injected and filler.

I believe it is the former. Josh is my point of contact over there and has been very helpful.. If you want his number feel free to PM me

[sirhodjibob]

Rear suspension and subframe refresh has begun....



I will say I was pretty intimidated at first taking on a job this big as normally I would have a shop do this, but now that I have taken everything apart it really isn't too difficult. At the end of the day it's really just bolt on and bolt off, and there are plenty of how to's on this site and YouTube. Plus now I get the satisfaction of cleaning and restoring everything to a level that most shops wouldn't.

From my research there are 2 ways to do it- lower the entire rear suspension as one unit assembled, or disassemble piece by piece on the car. I chose the latter as I was mostly working alone (and the whole unit is heavy) and it also helped me stay organized, but to each their own. I will be using a shop (GTPeace) for the rear wheel bearings/hubs and welding since I don't have the tools or skills for that.

I'm probably going to forget something, but here is the plan and list of parts going in. It's a lot....I basically just bought every nut and bolt in the parts diagram. I'm staying mostly OEM here.

Subframe
33312227800 subframe (yes I bought a new one)
33319066671 x 2 subframe bushing
33319059301 x 2 subframe bushing
33332227291 x 2 subframe bolt to chassis
33311133463 x 2 nut
33326760361 x 2 subframe bolt to chassis
33331132546 x 4 washer thingies
Bimmerworld rear swaybar mounting reinforcements

Differential/Axles
33171134872 x 2 differential bushings
33171134871 differential bushing to subframe
33176760337 differential bolt to subframe
33171136186 x 2 bolts
33117525064 fill plug w/washer
Turner magnetic drain plug
Liqui Moly LM20042 75W140 gear oil
33211227664 - torx screws for axle to diff

Rear Trailing Arms
OE rear wheel bearing kit from FCP euro (OE bearings, lock rings, axle nuts)
Febi rear hubs
OE ATE ABS sensors
OE Gemo parking brake cables
33306852895 x 4 ball joints
(note- RTAB, RTAB housings, and mounting bolts have already been replaced within the past year)
Bimmerworld RTAB pocket reinforcements

Rear suspension
33326760668 x 8 nuts for various suspension pieces
33321139132 x 2 bolts for upper control arm to trailing arm
33321090693 x 2 bolts for upper control arm to subframe
33326863853 x 2 bolts for lower control arm to trailing arm
33171090824 x 2 bolts for lower control arm to subframe
33326760363 x 2 washers for lower control arm
33321092247 x 2 upper control arm bushings
33326770813 x 2 lower control arm
33321094469 lower control arm cover left
33321094470 lower control arm cover right
33326760364 x 2 lock plates
33552227240 x 2 rear sway bar bushing
33506779734 x 2 bushing mount thingy
07119913612 x 2 bolt for the mount thingy
07119905374 x 2 nut for the mount thingy
33551124375 x 2 rear sway bar endlinks, nuts, bolts

Miscellaneous
51718130071 & 51718130072 aero trim pieces near the RTABs

Subframe is being shipped from Germany, and will be powdercoated once reinforcements are welded in. Front and rear sway bars and upper control arms will be powdercoated as well. The rear trailing arms and differential will be painted in POR15.

More to come.

- - - Updated - - -

Before



After



Also the Schwaben subframe bushing tool kit sucks. Save your money. It did work well for the diff bushings but you're better off torching the subframe bushings it seems.

[brianc]

You’re a legend... buys a new subframe. I also always like to replace with new parts and seriously considered a new subframe but ended up refinishing instead. AND you bought those torx axle bolts at $16each $192!

And agree 1000% on the Schwaben ‘subframe’ tool. It’s mislabeled it doesn’t work for any of the subframe bushings except for the diff mounting bushing. It’s more suited to the diff bushings and outer control arm bushings. Also I would always advise people to just buy new lower arms when doing rear end. They are cheap, come with bushings installed and trying to replace those inner bushings is the hardest of all 7 types of bushings in the rear end.

[sirhodjibob]

You’re a legend... buys a new subframe. I also always like to replace with new parts and seriously considered a new subframe but ended up refinishing instead. AND you bought those torx axle bolts at $16each $192!

And agree 1000% on the Schwaben ‘subframe’ tool. It’s mislabeled it doesn’t work for any of the subframe bushings except for the diff mounting bushing. It’s more suited to the diff bushings and outer control arm bushings. Also I would always advise people to just buy new lower arms when doing rear end. They are cheap, come with bushings installed and trying to replace those inner bushings is the hardest of all 7 types of bushings in the rear end.

Yep, way easier to just buy new lower arms. You can get OEM Lemforder ones from FCPEuro for not much money.

[sirhodjibob]

Slowly been accumulating parts as mission creep sets in. Also ordered:

33321095555 & 33321095556 - upper control arms
33181181218 - cable holders that clip in to the upper arms
16111182831 - fuel filler neck hose...I mean while you have access why not?
07129952119 x 2 clamps for above

Also ordered AKG rear sway bar reinforcements after researching not so great things about the Bimmerworld ones. For only $25 it was a no brainer. The upper & lower control arms as well as the subframe all came with the bushings already pressed in, so do don't make the mistake I did and order them separately (although you may need to for the subframe, see below).

Do note, all these OEM parts I order directly from the dealer - BMW of Fairfax in Northern Virginia.

New subframe arrived from Germany. Take a look at old vs "new" (it clearly had years of dust on it)



Note the extra reinforcement welded in here, with a bolt hole for what I am not sure:

Untitled by sirhodjibob, on Flickr">

Take a look at the number on the subframe bushings here- would this indicate year of production?



Lastly, anyone have the part number for this, or know how to remove? This is the holder for the ABS and brake pad wear sensors.

[brianc]

Nice. When you said fuel filler neck I thought you were talking about the $260 part that goes all the way to the cap. I wanted to replace that one recently just to have a new one but my rational side won this time . and did you get OE clamps or aftermarket CRP etc? Haha, sometimes I buy the BMW ones when price is close.

Those sensor holder things on the subframe and also the ones by the fender liners by brakes are on a hard-to-find page on the etk

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=61_4879

I think I tried to get them when I did mine very recently and couldn’t but def worth a try..

[JamesL71]

Love when I see updates to this thread. Good stuff.

[sirhodjibob]

Nice. When you said fuel filler neck I thought you were talking about the $260 part that goes all the way to the cap. I wanted to replace that one recently just to have a new one but my rational side won this time . and did you get OE clamps or aftermarket CRP etc? Haha, sometimes I buy the BMW ones when price is close.

Those sensor holder things on the subframe and also the ones by the fender liners by brakes are on a hard-to-find page on the etk

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=61_4879

I think I tried to get them when I did mine very recently and couldn’t but def worth a try..

Nice, thanks for the link. Weird the parts do not even show up on the dealer parts website, but I will go in and ask.

I got the OE clamps- those were only $3 and change.

[AJLM34A]

Lastly, anyone have the part number for this, or know how to remove? This is the holder for the ABS and brake pad wear sensors.

They are held in place by and expanding rivet. When you push the center in, it relaxes the outer and then you remove the holder. You need to get 4 new ones since the centers fall into the sub frame.

[brianc]

by the way, when you get your new upper control arms please post pics. I recently bought a set and what I received from Pelican Parts here in the US was appalling. They look refinished or something. In fact the original 23 year old arms are in better shape than what I received - I just wanted new parts while I am in there doing the rear end. I bought another set from ECS and we will see what I get. If I wanted crappy, b-stock, or refinished parts w/ chipped paint showing bare metal and rust for $400 I would just as well strip and powdercoat my own for $50. You can see the top part is where water an dirt are held and the part gets worn and rusted. They didn't even do a good job stripping it.. they just sprayed some crap around in there.. you can even see road grime still on it. A lot of these parts I get from BMW recently are garbage. I'm just trying to upkeep my car - the parts I'm replacing aren't necessarily broken just a little tired. A lot of times I have to buy and return 2 or 3 of the same item to get good parts, especially w/ plastic & trim. This didn't used to happen very much 5, 10 or 15 years ago. Recently I had to buy multiple b pillars (scratches), M door sills (defects), rear door panel insert (leather defects), fan shroud (part looked more used then the one it's replacing), tail trim panel (scratches) etc...

arms1.jpg arms2.jpg arms3.jpg

and this is the original arms..
og_arms.jpg

[Braymond141]

by the way, when you get your new upper control arms please post pics. I recently bought a set and what I received from Pelican Parts here in the US was appalling. They look refinished or something. In fact the original 23 year old arms are in better shape than what I received - I just wanted new parts while I am in there doing the rear end. I bought another set from ECS and we will see what I get. If I wanted crappy, b-stock, or refinished parts w/ chipped paint showing bare metal and rust for $400 I would just as well strip and powdercoat my own for $50. You can see the top part is where water an dirt are held and the part gets worn and rusted. They didn't even do a good job stripping it.. they just sprayed some crap around in there.. you can even see road grime still on it. A lot of these parts I get from BMW recently are garbage. I'm just trying to upkeep my car - the parts I'm replacing aren't necessarily broken just a little tired. A lot of times I have to buy and return 2 or 3 of the same item to get good parts, especially w/ plastic & trim. This didn't used to happen very much 5, 10 or 15 years ago. Recently I had to buy multiple b pillars (scratches), M door sills (defects), rear door panel insert (leather defects), fan shroud (part looked more used then the one it's replacing), tail trim panel (scratches) etc...

arms1.jpg arms2.jpg arms3.jpg

and this is the original arms..
og_arms.jpg

lol. That is what original upper control arms look like. That is a coating to help with noises associated with all the rocks that bounce around on the suspension. Aside from BMW not really doing enough to protect suspension components for storage and shipping, you got all of that wrong.