My 1999 M3 Progress Thread

[sirhodjibob]

OK GOOD NEWS EVERYONE. Roof ledge moldings arrived and in one piece!

Here's what's been installed since the last post.
51711977677 - Windshield cowl with new hardware (4 x 51718108613, 4 x 51138124389
61619069197 - OEM wiper blades. I always prefer OEM blades, just never have good luck with even the "OE" ones. The BMW ones have a nice aero cover on the passenger side.
51218122441 & 51218122442 - Exterior door handle surrounds & gasket
51438151405 & 51438151406 - New B Pillar trim. Also replacing 51431960983 which is the passenger side trim piece around the seatbelt height adjuster due to a crack.
51711960752 - new jack pads
25111434322 - new OEM leather shiftboot. I'd prefer not talk about the arts and craft disaster with the Redline one. But oh man is the new OEM one so nice!
51238119558 - new hood struts

Also began doing preventative maintenance. As a baseline with any used car I get I change all fluids. Here's what's done so far:
-Oil & filter change (Liqui Moly 5W-40 + Mahle filter) + new drain plug
-Transmission fluid (Red Line D4 ATF) with new fill & drain plugs
-Differential fluid (Liqui Moly 75W-140) with new fill & drain plugs
-Air filter (Hengst)
-Fuel filter (Mahle). Dropped off the fuel filter cover to get powdercoated as well
-Spark plugs (NGK BKR6EQUP)
-Bled clutch and replaced clutch line with ECS stainless steel version. Also deleted clutch delay valve.

Noticed a small bit of oil around the coils well changing the plugs. Will be doing valve cover gasket to address and the PCV system as preventative maintenance. On order:
11120034108 - Valve cover gasket
11127526447 - Oil cap gasket
11121437395 - Valve cove grommets x 15
07589062376 - BMW DB1209 Sealant for valve cover gaskets
11151703775 - Crankcase breather hose
13411733217 - PCV grommet thingy
11151703484 - crankcase vent valve
11151740393 - crankcase vent hose

Had to get the engine cover dialed in:
11121730352 - Engine cover spacers x2
11121726089 - Engine cover grommet

To do shortly:
-Power Steering fluid change
-Total cooling system overhaul. Car is still on original radiator and hoses. Lots going on here so will make separate post.
-Belts, pulleys, tensioners
-Brakes are TBD at the moment. I took the car out for a spirited drive and am getting a vibration under heavy braking. Researching options and how much I want to take apart right now.



This is after removing 5lbs of leaves and dirt:


Don't worry, I replaced the cowl caps after this picture. And as you can see, the disintegrating hood pad has been fired. If the Lightweight doesn't need one neither do I.

[sirhodjibob]

One last thing, if your seatbelts are slow to retract, give them a quick spray of silicone and pull them all the way out. Made a huge difference!

[sirhodjibob]

Decided last minute to go ahead and replace the fuel pump and sending unit since I pulling them out anyways. New gaskets and lock rings installed, filled up with a full tank and no fuel smell. Sweet.



Got a few things back from powdercoat as well


I couldn't hold off any longer so completed the paint correction. Winning combination was Sonax Perfect Finish + Rupes yellow pads. Normally I like Meguiar's polishes but for whatever reason BMW paint responds really well to Sonax for me. The dealer compounded it before I got it so it didn't take too much. I coated the car with new version of Ammo Reflex, topped with Ammo Skin + Creme.



Left is before polish, right is after 2 passes:

[sirhodjibob]

Began the cooling system overhaul today. EVERYTHING is original, which I guess is good because it means it never overheated? Anyways, it's a 21 year old ticking time bomb. I'm also replacing all the belts, pulleys, and tensioners.

I had trouble deciding on an aluminum radiator vs OE, fan delete vs electric fan vs OE, and Stewart water pump vs OE. I figured if the BMW components lasted this long, then it should cover me for at least as long as I plan on owning this. I decided to stick with the OE fan set up since it provides more cooling power than an electric fan, and most failures seems to come from poor maintenance (worn engine mounts or fan clutch) which I am replacing anyways.

Parts list:

17112227281 - Behr radiator from S54 powered Z3M (thicker core). FYI this came with its own drain plug, no need to order separately like I did.
61318360855 - Coolant level sensor
61318363677 - Auxiliary Fan Switch
17111723520 - Behr expansion tank
17111742231 - Behr expansion tank cap
11522243303 - "Euro" 7 blade fan - this has an outer ring around it. I believe it's used on later model US spec BMWs as well (X3 I think?)
11527505302 - Behr fan clutch
17111723031 - Fan shroud
17111712963 - Fan shroud rivets
Wahler 75 degree thermostat. Too cool?
11531265084 - Thermostat gasket
ECS Aluminum Bleeder Screw
JL Aluminum Thermostat Housing
11531740437 - Thermostat Housing gasket
Uro Aluminum Water Pump Pulley
07119904524 - Water Pump Pulley bolts
Stewart Water Pump
07119904539 - Drain plug for the engine block coolant
07119963200 - Washer for said plug
32411112282 - Cable ties for engine coolant hose
82141467704 - BMW Coolant

For the coolant hoses I ordered from FCP Euro the Rein Comprehensive Coolant Hose Kit. I won't list everything out but basically it's every single hose including the heater core ones and provides new clamps and o rings. You can find it here.

Also ordered form FCP Euro the Accessory Drive Kit. This replaces with OE equivalents:
-Serpentine belt
-AC drive belt
-Belt tensioner assembly
-Drive belt idler pulley
-Belt tensioner damper
-Accessory drive belt tensioner puller

I also ordered:
07119904677 - Idler pulley bolt

[notMpowered]

You are looking very thorough. Love to see that. Congrats on a nice pickup.

[sirhodjibob]

Thank you sir. I hope to begin installing fun stuff soon, but still have a good bit of maintenance to get through.

Got through most of the cooling system and belt/pulley/tensioner replacement today. Got held a bit as I decided to order a few more parts:

17111178412 - lower radiator mount x2
17201719414 - upper radiator mount x2
11531740-317 & 11-531740316 thermostat housing bolts
07129904553 - Water pump bolts

Also, because it took me FOREVER to find this info (not in the Bentley), here are the torque specs to replace the pulleys and tensioners properly, hopefully it saves someone else some time!

Idler pulley bolt - 28 lb-ft
Tensioner bolts (this is for those with the 13mm head) - 18 lb-ft
Tensioner pulley bolts - 28 lb-ft

[sirhodjibob]

Progress has been slow since I decided to order a few parts and ran into a couple issues. I already made a separate thread regarding door handle issues, and now noticed this. Well, I noticed it before but just figured it was coolant maybe weeping from the old water pump. Since there's no coolant in the car at the moment that is clearly not the case.

This is the bottom of the AC Compressor. It has green fluid leaking from the center. There's not much of a leak showing in this picture, but this was taken only an hour after cleaning the area with degreaser and not starting the car. Am I fubard and need a new compressor?

[adept]

Any tips on replacing the door handle gaskets? I have the parts laying around, I just haven't gotten around to it after failing to get the old ones off.

[sirhodjibob]

Any tips on replacing the door handle gaskets? I have the parts laying around, I just haven't gotten around to it after failing to get the old ones off.

Yeah, the first time you do it seems unnecessarily difficult, but once you figure it out it's ridiculously easy. Quite a few how-to guides on YouTube were flat out wrong. The trick is to find the correct brass tab to push on to unlock the door handle surround, but once you find it it's easy.

This was the most helpful one: https://blog.bavauto.com/4474/bmw-ou...cement-e36-z3/

There's good pictures here too: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...or-Handle-Trim

I also I found using a pick tool instead of a screwdriver more helpful, especially since you need something to pull the tab back into place once you're done.

[sirhodjibob]

Well, I need to buy something fun. Maintenance is important and all, but you can only replace so many hoses and gaskets before you want to do something else. Ordered new wheels:

36112227360 - OEM forged 17x8.5" wheels. These are the painted and "stamped" wheels of the M3 Lightweight. ECS had one in stock- the 2nd rear one should be here in a couple weeks. The fronts (36112227350) are NLA from BMW, but I scored a used set off a BMW CCA member. Bad news is I had to buy the entire set of 4, so I'll probably have 2 fronts for sale shortly.

[BKM3]

Were you able to get your roof ledge moldings on? I bought a set a couple years back and never installed them till a recent attempt and I can't get them on. Just wondering as I've heard there was a possible design flaw with the last set BMW had made.

[sirhodjibob]

I did. The quality seems fine, I think the issue is if your a DIYer it's not something you replace often and it's tricky to install, especially alone. I'd say mine is 98% there, but certainly a thousand times better than the faded and cracked ones they replaced.

Definitely helps to have the side windows off the car. The area around where the rear side windows kink is obviously the trickiest part. I am far from an expert on this, but I found you want to get the kinked part as low as possible, so the the end of the trim sits inside the lower molding. The rest is pretty easy. You can see is mine is not perfect, but I should be able to get it there once I apply some more "gentle persuasion."

[SIIDEWAYS]

The cooling system, brakes, and suspension pieces will need to be checked and addressed but the fuel smell is the immediate concern, so I'm starting with the interior. I started with removing the seats to gain access to the upper fuel tank and immediately got carried away.

So did you figure the cause of the fuel smell? And how'd you resolve it?

[ultamte]

Great progress - I enjoying following your thread. And great choice on the wheels - I too have a square set of 8.5 Stamped LTWs on my M3 Convertible.

BTW - where in Northern VA are you? I'm in Alexandria, and would appreciate any help you can provide with my door handle gaskets. I can't seem to get them to release, not matter how much I try.

Chad aka ultamte.

- - - Updated - - -

So did you figure the cause of the fuel smell? And how'd you resolve it?

It appears he did - Post #28:
Decided last minute to go ahead and replace the fuel pump and sending unit since I pulling them out anyways. New gaskets and lock rings installed, filled up with a full tank and no fuel smell. Sweet.

[sirhodjibob]

Great progress - I enjoying following your thread. And great choice on the wheels - I too have a square set of 8.5 Stamped LTWs on my M3 Convertible.

BTW - where in Northern VA are you? I'm in Alexandria, and would appreciate any help you can provide with my door handle gaskets. I can't seem to get them to release, not matter how much I try.

Chad aka ultamte.

- - - Updated - - -



It appears he did - Post #28:
Decided last minute to go ahead and replace the fuel pump and sending unit since I pulling them out anyways. New gaskets and lock rings installed, filled up with a full tank and no fuel smell. Sweet.

Correct, the new gaskets and lock rings on top of the tank solved the issue. I threw on a new gas cap for good measure.

I'm near Woodbridge, send me a PM if you want to link up. Happy to help any way I can.

[SIIDEWAYS]

Correct, the new gaskets and lock rings on top of the tank solved the issue. I threw on a new gas cap for good measure.

But you also replaced the fuel pump and sender unit, so how do know which of these measures did the trick? And lastly, do you have P/Ns for those gaskets and lock rings?

[sirhodjibob]

But you also replaced the fuel pump and sender unit, so how do know which of these measures did the trick? And lastly, do you have P/Ns for those gaskets and lock rings?

Well, the pump and sending unit seal doesn't really change unless something is damaged.

The parts you need are 16111181142 and 16111179637. Also I'd recommend getting a gas tank lock ring removal wrench. I just used a cheap eBay one. I'm sure the hammer and screwdriver method is fine but I like using the right tool when I can.

[sirhodjibob]

Ordered and installed the comprehensive power steering hose kit from FCPEuro. This is a pretty nice kit with Rein hoses, but note it is short 1 banjo bolt (although you can just reuse one). It includes:

-Power Steering Suction Hose
-Power Steering Pressure Hose
-Power Steering Return Hose
-Power Steering Banjo Bolt
-Power Steering Reservoir

Do note the new reservoir calls for CHF11S on the cap. I reused the old cap which specifies ATF to prevent any confusion in the future. Make sure to change the gasket on the cap if you do this. Also do yourself a favor and just disconnect the front sway bar. This will let you get a proper torque wrench on those banjo bolts.



Also installed:
-Uro aluminum power steering pulley
-3x 32427574840 power steering pulley bolts
-Filled with Liqui Moly Top Tec ATF

I also ordered an AAE rebuilt power steering pump, but ended up returning it as it did not match my original one. It had different casting marks as well as a different mounting bracket. See picture below. I ended up reusing the old one. I'll probably revisit as I eventually want to install the ZHP rack.

[sirhodjibob]

Valve cover gasket done.

Replaced the following:
11120034108 - Valve cover gasket
11127526447 - Oil cap gasket
11121437395 - Valve cove grommets x 15
07589062376 - BMW DB1209 Sealant for valve cover gaskets

[Black Magic]

@sirhodjibob I have always avoided use of sealant on valve cover gaskets, successfully. What was your rationale for using sealant? How did it go? Would you use it again for the next job?

[sirhodjibob]

The factory service manual calls for it. A small bit on the half moon sections on the rear, and on the corners by the VANOS unit. It left the factory this way as well. I only use sealant if the factory calls it for, I don't claim to know any better. I haven't started the car since completing the job (in the middle of a few other jobs at the moment) but I'll let you know shortly.

[JitteryJoe]

The stock power steering pumps can be rebuilt unless it is completely trashed. No special tools required. Pick up a rebuild kit and do it yourself!
Part # 32411135880

[sirhodjibob]

Thanks! I may go that route when I get to replacing the steering rack.

[sirhodjibob]

Brake overhaul time while I wait for the new to me front wheels to be refinished. Installing the following:

-Powerstop rebuilt front & rear calipers and caliper brackets
-ECS Tuning brass caliper guide bushings
-Zimmerman blank front & rear rotors
-ECS stainless steel rotor screws
-StopTech sport brake pads
-Bowa pad wear sensors
-ATE brake lube
-Febi parking brake drum shoes
-ATE parking brake rebuild kit
-ECS stainless steel brake lines
-Motul RBF600 brake fluid

Before:





Caliper comparison. The Power Stops come powdercoated red with new pistons, seals, caliper guides, bushings, and powdercoated brackets. Red is not my first choice but I like it more than OE, if only for corrosion protection. You'll notice though these do not have the M or ATE logos on them, but have the exact same part number stamped on. Not exactly sure why, but the calipers looked and felt exactly identical otherwise so I felt comfortable installing. Were these calipers used on non M products as well? Or did Power Stop going through the trouble of filling the logos?



Bronze caliper guide bushing install. Pretty straight forward. I used the bolts from the ECS kit as they are 304 stainless steel.





Parking brake install. Getting it set right is tedious but well worth the effort. It now sets firmly after about 6 clicks on the handle. For me it took about 30 notches from stop to get the adjuster right (write up here: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-brake/A8cePiq )





I managed to fubar the brake line install, of all things. I stripped the banjo bolt on the curvy hard pipe when trying to screw into the new lines, not from corrosion but from rushing it while brake fluid was spilling on my hand it. I ordered a new factory hard line so I guess I'll be learning how to flare brake lines soon. Also ordered a catch bottle for brake bleeding

[sirhodjibob]

Next step is to rebuild the factory under tray & ducting. My splash shield were cracked. To me it makes sense to protect all the new parts I just installed.

Installing:
51712268673 - aluminum air duct off the Lightweight
17112227690 - lower radiator ducting. Not sure if this is compatible with the LTW air duct- if anyone knows please tell me
51712250641 & 51712250642 - left & right lower bumper supports (aka "pork chops")
51711977047 & 51711977048 - left & right front fender liners with seals
07119916949, 07149126885, 07119901299, and a few more part numbers - new hex bolts and hardware for all the above