This is great info. I assume this is the stuff? https://www.designengineering.com/fl...ld-ii-10-x-10/
My tunnel insulation is completely shot - sounds like I can cut it near the bell housing of the trans and run this material all the way back.
All great info. I have the Msportparts brackets holding up for now, but it gets old breathing that crap in when you're under there.
there's a bunch of different options. I recommend not getting the adhessive backed one because it really does need to have a clean surface to adhere and eventually all adhessives give out anyway.
I chose the nonadhessive version and just secured it using the existing nuts and grommets around the transmission tunnel. unlike the stock oem stuff, the aluminum face of this material can actually hold its form and conform to the tunnel
Took a chance and ordered the dBilas air intake from Deutschland. I've been searching for intake that offered more induction noise than factory and was more elegant than the typical cone filter stuck on a pipe, sucking in hot air. The dBilas was appealing as it appeared to use the factory intake path drawing air from the kidney grill, and uses a panel style filter. In reality it's just a corrugated tube you cram in there, sitting right against the radiator. Also, I swear the mounting bracket included in the kit is for the wrong car. Or if it is the correct one it's a complete abomination. I fanagled it by using the rubber mounts from the factory airbox but it is not a permanent solution.
The airbox itself is fine, and it does have a very nice growl at high RPM...but you really have to be standing on the throttle for it's presence to be known, otherwise it's rather quiet. I think I will try to get the factory intake snorkel to work with it, and I will have to figure out a better bracket solution to mount it. For 192 Euros + outrageous shipping I would pass. I sure as hell wouldn't try their ITB set up if they can't even get an air intake to fit properly. Factory air intake still reigns supreme....I just wish I could hear it (and yes I tried debaffling)!
^ thanks for the honest review and eating the bullet on it. I have always admired DB's products such as their intake and ITB because they look high quality but I have always heard the results were so-so relative to the price.
Regarding the euro airbox snorkel, it does seem like the best design because it augments what the stock airbox is good at with the added benefits of an CAI that draws air from the brake duct area.
In fact, Dinan used to sell and rebrand the euro snorkel their gen 1 e36s CAI's before they went to a true CAI pipe (the latter ironically doesn't fit well if you have euro headlights). Interesting enough Dinan reverted back to the snorkel design with the subsequent e46 and e90 intakes for the N/A motors probably because it made more sense.
As far as the snorkel design accessory for the us e36 motors, I believe it is a direct bolt on for the s50US airboxes because the angle is the same as the euro one. The s52 airbox is a different P/N and slightly differ design than s50 so it, may require to finess or you will need to get an s50 airbox. You still have to modify the factory horn location that gets in the way but I believe it is simply just unbolting it and putting it somewhere else vs. cutting the bracket like your traditional CAI.
Part number listed in the link below. There is also a part number for a precut air duct so you wouldn't have to second guess about cutting yours but not sure what that P/N is.
Genuine European BMW - 13711401527 - AIR INTAKE (13-71-1-401-527) (ecstuning.com)
e36_m3_snorkel_install (unofficialbmw.com)
Definitely on my to-do list as soon as my freggin kids let me have the time in the day to do it.
Last edited by bmwstephen; 12-15-2021 at 04:01 PM.
Ugh, see what you mean about the mounting bracket.
But honestly, that whole cold air intake isn't the most esthetically pleasing design, especially when compared to the impressively high standards of the rest of your car.
That's the only modification I don't like that you have done. It's ugly and I can't help but feel it is losing you performance. A Dinan intake would have been a better selection, or 3.5" MAF upgrade w/Z3 3.0 intake (remove the front baffle) or just staying stock (remove the front baffle).
Cool part, but it's a no from me.
Last edited by Braymond141; 12-15-2021 at 11:59 AM.
Lol, stock intake is already back on
I mean maybe if the snorkel wasn't cardboard, and if you shaved off all the lettering, and the mounting didn't suck it would have been cool...
I did not know about the Z3 intake...I will have to look into this sorcery. Might do that or the Euro snorkel like what bmwstephen suggested. A Dinan intake would be fine except the Euro headlights make it a pain. All I'm after really is more induction noise...that's one of the best parts of any BMW straight 6
Parts are being accumulated at a rapid rate...
The Dinan intake does fit just fine with Bosch and a filter change.
K&N F035A4
Z3 M54 3.0 air filter box. I had the 806 MAF turned around because the clip tabs were broken. Not the best example.
^for the Dinan CAI to work, it looks like the Bosch euros needs to make sure it has the static rods installed and not the level motors right? Also did you relocate both horns to front of the bumper carrier support?
As far as the z3 airbox, is it actually smaller than the standard one? where does it draw the air from?
yeah but you cheated you didn’t rebuild your own vanos actually I’d probably recommend just buying one if have money. Keep the old one.
the current K&N equivalent to that is RU-3550. It’s 30% less surface area than the dinan filter but should be fine. I think this is the one I’m using. Another one I wanted to try is RX-4140. It has ~15% less surface area of Dinan filter w/ 4” OD… may very well fit as well (it’s a cylinder vs cone and has filter material on top surface as well)
Last edited by brianc; 12-17-2021 at 01:51 AM.
Last edited by Braymond141; 12-17-2021 at 06:59 PM.
Cool. I found those two part numbers with parametric search when looking to replace my Dinan. I had always used the Dinan and kind of smashed it in there. The K&N is a bit of a nightmare I remember I spent about 90 minutes trying to find candidates. Basically you want the flange to have 3.5” ID and narrow outrr dimensions. There was a few other candidates but those two seemed the best options (at least from K&N).
I have the RX-4140 somewhere. If I have time I’ll take some pics w/ the RU-3550 and the RX-4140.
OK, I got some data on these K&N filters. I'm going to start a new thread w/ this info but will also add here. These filters were fitted w/ the OE Bosch Euro Headlights.
The Contenders: K&N RU-3550 vs K&N RX-4140
Untitled
RU-3550
The RU-3550 is a tight fit but fits perfectly between the brake cooling duct and the body w/ just a tiny bit of room to spare. Pictures shown w/o wheel well liner so easier to see
RX-4140
The RX-4140 doesn't really fit well as the bottom is touching the top of the brake cooling duct and the side is touching the wheel well liner when all underbody trim pieces are installed correctly.
In either case do not try to install the the filter from above or you'll mess it up. The flange of the filter tucks under the body sheet metal. Take the time to remove the underbody trim and do it correctly.
Of course do not use the Dinan bracket unless you can modify it, and make sure to use the sock so it doesn't suck up water.
The RX-4140 technically has 15% more surface area and should be capable of higher flow but either is fine for our anemic 240hp NA M3's
The RU-3550 is exactly 6.15" tall vs 6.45" for the RX-4140 and the bottom diameter is 3.5" vs 4"... hence the tighter fit for the RX.
Last edited by brianc; 12-20-2021 at 03:25 AM.
Fantastic thread! Great find. Real gamble buying it how you did. Glad it paid off.
Friend's site: Truck Tires
How - after 12 years - am I still learning stuff that seems like 101- level stuff?
This is because Brett knows all. You can argue with him, but you'll be wrong!
Brett, will that airbox work with ALL of the 3.5" MAFs (either of the Porsche ones AND the 540 one)?
Any fitment notes? I don't see the plumbing going into the airbox - would the E36 suction tube still fit (13711730756) or would you use the Z3 parts? And WHAT ARE the Z3 parts - the suction tube part isn't listed in Realoem for the Z3 (at least, not for the random build month I picked).
Last edited by blckstrm; 12-26-2021 at 12:28 PM.
-Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.
Vitolo is the guy that knows all in the airbox department, not me.
I signed up for the forum today since I have been on the prowl for a e36 and came upon your build thread. This is awesome and quite inspiring. Here I thought that forums were pretty dead nowadays. Hopefully I can find one wo overpaying now.
Finally got around to snapping pics of my euro snorkel install in case you are interested.
Noticed that it clears bosch euro headlights and the factory horn bracket although horn still had to be relocated (I mounted it to the bumper carrier).
Now you have and air channel from the nose panel as well as brake duct. Did I notice any performance difference? no, but probably just made airflow and temperature more consistent.
DkgOGPWm.jpgr2eUAZSm.jpgN6hQ0cXm.jpgedLYxkDm.jpgMT8ZqhTm.jpg
Last edited by bmwstephen; 01-17-2022 at 08:28 PM.
I’ll bite at this one because I spent 17 as a design engineer in audio and acoustics in my prior endeavors and designed several well known car audio systems for JBL, infinity & HK including everything from entry level to high end JBL GTi and Infinity Perfect-series components. We also designed the original HK upgrade for the e36 back in the day.
I bought the Bavauto stuff to check out. Short of bringing it in to test acoustics in one of Harmans custom car setups it’s obvious to me they are mostly marketing. Nothing was specifically designed for the E36 other than trying to get the impedance and relative output between components close.
1) The tweeters are off-the-shelf generic silk dome tweeters. They just picked whatever fit within budget and close enough impedance and frequency response to stock units. If they were designed for the E36 they would have a waveguide and wouldn’t have a 12mm deep sunken recess on each side. They also wouldnt be placed way back in the tweeter housing. This is terrible for frequency response…they would have a waveguide that would extend to the surface of the tweeter grille in the E36. Lastly, the bavauto tweeter wouldn’t have redundant metal grille at all (not to mention with only 60% open area because of stupid inefficient design). So to recap the tweeters are ‘close’ to the correct ‘sensitivity’ for the application but probably completely random frequency response when paired with their mids and HK amp due to the fact they weren’t designed for the acoustic space of the E36 and they are set way back and have two grilles to mess up the sound.
2) The mids are reasonable units. They tout neodymium magnets but this has been standard fare in cheap mids since the early 2000’s. They are $6 units, most likely manufactured by GGEC or Meiloon Industries in China. That said they are not terrible units and have the potential to be an improvement over the stock parts but not much faith that they were designed for (inside) the E36 for the proper frequency response and crossover w/ the random tweeter. It is again atrocious that they are sunk 20mm back in the mid speaker grille. Again this is stupid it would have been ‘free’ to place it right up against the E36 mid grille and would greatly improve performance.
3) The rears are generic entry-level 6x9 two-way. They have small voice coils (low power) and look like they cloned the old entry level infinity kappa 6x9 my colleagues and I designed circa 2005. They spent more money on rubber sleeves to fake you into thinking the magnets are larger than they are than they did on the ceramic magnets themselves (this is commonly done in cheap systems). I would argue the stock HK rear speakers are better.. better frequency response and more bass. They were designed inside the E36 and considerable time & money was spent on the enclosure design (talking the premium HK system not stock one). The bavauto stuff is just free-wheeling ‘infinite baffle’ this is not ideal. About the only thing going for it is that they have the adapter to fit the E36.
4) the front mid-bass are equivalent to entry level aftermarket parts. Small voice coil, small magnet, low power but potential improvement over stock. However I have no faith they had the ability to match the frequency response to the stock parts (.. the system design.. the closed-system design of the stock mid, mid bass, and HK amp).
All of this said BavAuto is not a scam. In fact the price point is relatively aggressive and reasonable for what it is (~$550US). I’m not a big fan of all the claims they make but it’s just marketing. Just don’t expect a big upgrade in sound quality. Also don’t expect a big upgrade in output as the system is limited by the stock head units and rms power and THD of the HK amp.
Last edited by brianc; 01-17-2022 at 10:51 PM.
Bookmarks