New Hid Headlights blow fuse?

[zohaibrose]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153060971419

After buying these 419$ headlights off eBay and seller fishcake321 (Hid angel eye units) I hooked everything up like it said and soon as I power them the low beam fuse keeps popping, if I only have one plugged in it will work, but soon as I hook up both headlights the fuse just pops immediately, not sure why though, I have the correct 5a fuse in there and the connectors are nice and tight, I did find that if I leave the car running and then turn them on they seem to stay on until I turn the car off and leave it in accessory mode then they just turn off themselves, my battery is like only a couple months old and the alternator is charging at 14 volts. Not sure where to start, really liking the look of hids, they light up the road at night very well

[XnWarden]

The for sale ad doesnt show any pics of the wiring. Did they include a splitter harness and proper ballasts? Every reputable kit includes those. Check out theretrofitsource.com and you'll see what I mean

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[JDStrickland]

First of all, KISS. Keep it simple, stupid.

Fuse F25 is for the low beams, F22 is high beams. These fuses operate the control circuit -- relays and such -- that make the lights turn on, it does not fuse the lamps themselves.

Fuses F11 and F12 (7.5A each, L & R) are the actual fuses for the Low Beam bulbs. The High Beam bulbs use F29 and F30 (also 7.5A each, L & R).

You said that you are blowing the 5A fuse, this tells me that you have mucked up the Control Circuit somewhere.

Do you have the Check Control Module that has the message, LOW BEAM CIRCUIT ERROR (or similar) that you tired to cure? If yes, then you should double check your work on the CCM.

[zohaibrose]

First of all, KISS. Keep it simple, stupid.

Fuse F25 is for the low beams, F22 is high beams. These fuses operate the control circuit -- relays and such -- that make the lights turn on, it does not fuse the lamps themselves.

Fuses F11 and F12 (7.5A each, L & R) are the actual fuses for the Low Beam bulbs. The High Beam bulbs use F29 and F30 (also 7.5A each, L & R).

You said that you are blowing the 5A fuse, this tells me that you have mucked up the Control Circuit somewhere.

Do you have the Check Control Module that has the message, LOW BEAM CIRCUIT ERROR (or similar) that you tired to cure? If yes, then you should double check your work on the CCM.

Yes the low beam error keeps showing on my obc, wasn’t sure if that was because they were aftermarket headlights or because somethings up with the wiring, btw what is the ccm and how to check it?

[JDStrickland]

LOW BEAM CIRCUIT FAILURE comes from the Check Control Module, it does not automatically mean that your HID is blowing the fuse. The circuit is a voltage divider thing that is looking at the resistance of the circuit in totality. The standard bulb has an expected resistance, the HID is different. When the standard bulb fails, the resistance change is detected and the error message is triggered. The HID has a different resistance and the message triggers as a result, even if the lights are on. The issue is not cured by "fixing" the CCM, it is cured by wiring this particular circuit around the CCM so it does not monitor headlight operations any more.

The CCM, Check Control Module is mounted to the firewall in a space that is directly below the VIN number placard at the base of the windshield. You have to remove the knee bolster under the steering wheel (above the pedals) and it helps to take the light switch and AC duct out so you can see where you are going. The wire harness that goes into the CCM must be unplugged and there are 4 wires to clip and splice together at the connector. Two wires are the headlamp voltage going into the CCM, and two wires go out of the CCM to the headlamps (Low Beams). Your car should have a YEL/GRN and YEL/BLU (Left and right low beams, respectively) going to and from the CCM. Cut these two wires outside of the CCM and splice them together and the voltage divider circuit that cause the error message will be disabled. You will not get a headlamp fail error, but you will see the headlamps not come on if they burn out, so the message does not help you anyway. The wires go in to the CCM on Pins 8 & 15, and out of the CCM to the head lamps themselves on Pins 12 & 13, respectively.

I'm still a bit fuzzy on the fuse that fails. Fuses F11 and F12 go directly to the headlamps, L and R respectively, via the CCM. If you are having a fuse fail of either of these, then your wiring is suspect. If you are blowing F25 and or F22, then you are experiencing a fail in the control circuit -- the relays and such -- that you should not have touched to change from halogen to HID lighting.

On the front of your car, the Low Beams are the outboard lights, the High Beams are inboard.


I MADE THIS CHANGE FROM HALOGEN TO HID AND HAD TO RESOLVE THE ERROR MESSAGE, BUT I DID NOT GO WITH THE ANGLE EYES SO I DO NOT KNOW WHAT WIRING MODIFICATIONS ARE MADE TO SUPPORT THE ANGEL EYES.

What fuse are you blowing? This might help to understand if the angel eyes or the headlamps are the cause of the trouble.

[zohaibrose]

LOW BEAM CIRCUIT FAILURE comes from the Check Control Module, it does not automatically mean that your HID is blowing the fuse. The circuit is a voltage divider thing that is looking at the resistance of the circuit in totality. The standard bulb has an expected resistance, the HID is different. When the standard bulb fails, the resistance change is detected and the error message is triggered. The HID has a different resistance and the message triggers as a result, even if the lights are on. The issue is not cured by "fixing" the CCM, it is cured by wiring this particular circuit around the CCM so it does not monitor headlight operations any more.

The CCM, Check Control Module is mounted to the firewall in a space that is directly below the VIN number placard at the base of the windshield. You have to remove the knee bolster under the steering wheel (above the pedals) and it helps to take the light switch and AC duct out so you can see where you are going. The wire harness that goes into the CCM must be unplugged and there are 4 wires to clip and splice together at the connector. Two wires are the headlamp voltage going into the CCM, and two wires go out of the CCM to the headlamps (Low Beams). Your car should have a YEL/GRN and YEL/BLU (Left and right low beams, respectively) going to and from the CCM. Cut these two wires outside of the CCM and splice them together and the voltage divider circuit that cause the error message will be disabled. You will not get a headlamp fail error, but you will see the headlamps not come on if they burn out, so the message does not help you anyway. The wires go in to the CCM on Pins 8 & 15, and out of the CCM to the head lamps themselves on Pins 12 & 13, respectively.

I'm still a bit fuzzy on the fuse that fails. Fuses F11 and F12 go directly to the headlamps, L and R respectively, via the CCM. If you are having a fuse fail of either of these, then your wiring is suspect. If you are blowing F25 and or F22, then you are experiencing a fail in the control circuit -- the relays and such -- that you should not have touched to change from halogen to HID lighting.

On the front of your car, the Low Beams are the outboard lights, the High Beams are inboard.


I MADE THIS CHANGE FROM HALOGEN TO HID AND HAD TO RESOLVE THE ERROR MESSAGE, BUT I DID NOT GO WITH THE ANGLE EYES SO I DO NOT KNOW WHAT WIRING MODIFICATIONS ARE MADE TO SUPPORT THE ANGEL EYES.

What fuse are you blowing? This might help to understand if the angel eyes or the headlamps are the cause of the trouble.

its fuse 25, im assuming it keeps blowing because of the large ammount of electricity that hids need upon startup, if they were leds it would probably work fine. idk if its something with the ccm or having to add a relay kit which would introduce even more wires under the hood

[JDStrickland]

its fuse 25, im assuming it keeps blowing because of the large ammount of electricity that hids need upon startup, if they were leds it would probably work fine. idk if its something with the ccm or having to add a relay kit which would introduce even more wires under the hood

F25 feeds the control circuit, the coils and stuff. A relay is an electrical switch, the coil is energized and contacts close. The contacts operate the heavy loads. If the HIDs were the problem, your fuse issue would be with F11 or F12.

Your issue with F25 means that you spliced into the control circuit, and I do not have any suggestions other than to retrace your steps, paying close attention specifically to the Angel Eyes. My HID kit did not have the Angel Eyes, so I do not know how or where they are connected.

If the fuse did not blow before the HIDs, then the CCM is not the trouble, barring the possibility that you shorted something out. The LOW BEAM FAIL error is not cause for the fuse to fail. What happens here is, the new lights have a different resistance -- my instinct would be higher -- that makes the CCM think that the lamp filament of the halogen (original) lamps is open (high resistance is an open in a voltage divider circuit), a fuse blows when the resistance goes down. A shorted circuit is one with low resistance. The error message and the fuse issue are opposite symptoms.

LOW BEAM CIRCUIT
CONTROL
F25 (Hot in Run and START)comes out of the Fuse Box as a GRN/RED wire that goes into the High Beam Light Relay, Pin 5. (This wire is a Don't Care for you because it is a different circuit than the Low Beam. You are only interested in making sure you have not tapped into it. The GRN/RED wire also goes into the Headlamp Switch at Pin 12. When the headlamps are turned on (Headlamp), you get power out on Pin 4, the wire here is YEL. The YEL wire goes to the High Beam Relay, Pin 1, the Low Beam Relay, Pin 8, and the Combo Switch, Pin 4. I think your interest is in the Low Beam Relay and down stream from it. I would not expect any trouble with the Combo Switch or the High Beam Relay. So, the power goes into the Low Beam Relay, Pin 8, and Pin 4 has the ground path to energize the relay. This is the End of the Circuit for F25.