545i n60

[Thmko]

I have a 2005 545i that has been having starting issues when engine has been running for 1 hr or more
,than turn off engine for 15 mins, go to start again, it will crank but not run, till let cool off for 30 mins +.would start
ever time. It has been an intermitten problem so far. vary random.
I attempted to start first thing today,engine cold, cranked,tried to start but did not run.Now the starter can't
turn engine over, Put socket on crankshaft pulley, can only turn it 180 degrees both directions and something
is hard stopping it from turning further. What happened?

[jclausen]

Has it been raining a lot out there, it almost sounds like the engine hydrolocked or something. Make sure the battery is fully charged. For the int hot start I was going to suggest replacing the ivm module

[Thmko]

Has it been raining a lot out there, it almost sounds like the engine hydrolocked or something. Make sure the battery is fully charged. For the int hot start I was going to suggest replacing the ivm module

I had already removed all spark plugs, still can't turn crank more than 1/2 rotation in clockwise position.
something is hard stopping it. engine ran fine other than hot no start, engine would always crank over.
I removed the valvetronic solenoids.still nothing. I don't know what to go after next. Thanks

[jclausen]

Well if the engine can't rotate by hand something happened some where. That is very strange.if you looked in to the spark plug holes with a flash light is there any liquid in there. Another thing is thought about the e39's had a compartment where the brake master cylinder lived underneath the micro filter assy. Well ther was a drain hole in this compartment that when clogged would allow the rain water to fill in the compartment and cause the water to get in to the booster then get sucked into the intake manifold and hydro lock the engine. Hard to believe but I witnessed it first hand at the shop, just took a second, a strange noise and a puff of white smoke and that's was it and it was over and sure enough there was a ton of water in the compartment and the drain was clogged. I instantly went out to my car to check my drain which was ok.

[Thmko]

Well if the engine can't rotate by hand something happened some where. That is very strange.if you looked in to the spark plug holes with a flash light is there any liquid in there. Another thing is thought about the e39's had a compartment where the brake master cylinder lived underneath the micro filter assy. Well ther was a drain hole in this compartment that when clogged would allow the rain water to fill in the compartment and cause the water to get in to the booster then get sucked into the intake manifold and hydro lock the engine. Hard to believe but I witnessed it first hand at the shop, just took a second, a strange noise and a puff of white smoke and that's was it and it was over and sure enough there was a ton of water in the compartment and the drain was clogged. I instantly went out to my car to check my drain which was ok.

Cyls. are dry,
I have preformed a leak down test on cyl. that would tdc. Got 3% on those cyl. That would be ring leakage, also removed
the passenger valve cover.With piston # 1 on pass. side at TDC the cam on intake / exhaust is on base circle of the lobe.
I can push valve stems on all 4 #1 cyl down a little. so no contact w/ piston. Going to take driver side cover off today.

[jclausen]

3% is very good, no worries there

[Thmko]

3% is very good, no worries there

Took off drivers valve cover . found no issue that I can see, Anyone with suggestions would appreciated.

[jclausen]

well if it's not hydro locked then what could keep it from spinning, far fetched ideas, starter is some how locking the flywheel, the timing chain assy is locked up some how, the transmission is causing the issue and some how a connecting rod is bent, that's why I thought hydrolock, camshaft broken, geez it's a strange one

[Thmko]

well if it's not hydro locked then what could keep it from spinning, far fetched ideas, starter is some how locking the flywheel, the timing chain assy is locked up some how, the transmission is causing the issue and some how a connecting rod is bent, that's why I thought hydrolock, camshaft broken, geez it's a strange one

I've rotated crank with a wood dowel pin in ea.spark plug hole, to watch cyl. travel up & down.
On # 3 pass. & #5 driver ,the piston will get an up & a down travel. the rest
only move in one direction either up or dn. with the amount of travel the crank will
give me, before coming to a hard stop.
Was able to get 3% leakage on #7 compression stroke & 85% on #4 exhaust stoke. From what I've seen on a youtube
engine build is 1&6 2&8 3&5 4&7 are at TDC to each other at same time. one at
compression & other at Ex. If I did have bent valves, they would be exhaust valves?
due to late timing. if chain jumped. & would not all exhaust valves be bent?
The fact I can rotate the crank pass TDC on two cyls. means the valves are good to me?

[cmyachtie]

I have a 2005 545i that has been having starting issues when engine has been running for 1 hr or more
,than turn off engine for 15 mins, go to start again, it will crank but not run, till let cool off for 30 mins +.would start
ever time. It has been an intermitten problem so far. vary random.
I attempted to start first thing today,engine cold, cranked,tried to start but did not run.Now the starter can't
turn engine over, Put socket on crankshaft pulley, can only turn it 180 degrees both directions and something
is hard stopping it from turning further. What happened?

Unless I missed something reading here, I would suspect your starter as the most likely culprit. Assuming that your initial intermittent starting issues are related to your current situation.

Also have you removed the accessory belt when you hand turn the crank or are you still turning everything?

is the “hard stop” a metal to metal sound type stop?

[Thmko]

Unless I missed something reading here, I would suspect your starter as the most likely culprit. Assuming that your initial intermittent starting issues are related to your current situation.

Also have you removed the accessory belt when you hand turn the crank or are you still turning everything?

is the “hard stop” a metal to metal sound type stop?

Serpentine belt off, only A/C belt on. I replaced the starter with new unit first, At first
I thought it was the issue, because the of the long cranking time that was used when it would hot start.
So I just replaced it . I did not think about turning the crank before I replaced starter. Something happened
on the last start attempt ,that lasted maybe 15 secs, engine attempted to start but I stop cranking on it.
to let starter cool. On the next try, I got the click from the solenoid but no crank. That when I decided to replace
original starter for new. If I have two cyls. that go pass TDC ,then to me I do not have a valve timing issue.
would an oil pump lock up?

[consti2tion]

Try taking the AC belt off, although unlikely it's possible the AC compressor is locked up. Worth a shot.

[jclausen]

I would remove the belt, try to turn it then remove the starter and try to turn

[Thmko]

I would remove the belt, try to turn it then remove the starter and try to turn

The A/C belt is a stretch to fit system. I was unable to turn crank far enough to slip it off
,so I cut it. A/C pulley turns free both ways. I really do not want to remove the starter again,
It;s a 2 day job. with the exhaust system removal. I look at both starters before I installed new unit.
the cast nose section on both were identical. I'm not hearing a metal to metal clunk sound when
crankshaft stops turning both directions. it just stops with no audible sound. ???

[jclausen]

At this point you could cut the belt off, seeing how the engine is not running anyway. You wouldn't think it's the stater. So the engine ran then didn't and won't fully turn over the only other thing is the trans and the flex plate, I wonder if putting trans in "n" make a difference

[Thmko]

At this point you could cut the belt off, seeing how the engine is not running anyway. You wouldn't think it's the stater. So the engine ran then didn't and won't fully turn over the only other thing is the trans and the flex plate, I wonder if putting trans in "n" make a difference

I tried the gear selector in N , back when first had a issue. no luck.
I ordered a bore scope today. I think I might take oil pan off, have a look
at bottom side. will look down the frt. timing cover also & look at the chain & valves too.
I can see starter flex plate through a hole on bottom of block , no damage
is visible.

[Thmko]

I tried the gear selector in N , back when first had a issue. no luck.
I ordered a bore scope today. I think I might take oil pan off, have a look
at bottom side. will look down the frt. timing cover also & look at the chain & valves too.
I can see starter flex plate through a hole on bottom of block , no damage
is visible.

Found the problem with my engine, with the bore scope, I can see heavy metal scaring on # 2 cyl.
wall, & metal laying on top of piston, just that cyl, no other. I talk to a BMW service tech. He explained
to me that BMW applied a silicon bonding to aluminum cyl. walls & after so many miles, it starts to flake
off. getting worse till the piston & bore. seize. so now decision time. buy a long block or sell as a project.
Thanks for all who took time to give input.