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Thread: 1998 740il Timing chain guides

  1. #1
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    1998 740il Timing chain guides

    Car has 100,000 miles and I'm about to change the timing chain guides and chains. What else should I replace when taking everything apart? I don't wanna have to take this apart at this scale again for at least another 100k miles so start naming things. Thank you for the help!

  2. #2
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    It's a long list. Make sure you crimp the vanos and replace the seals. Water pump, all the small hoses, the oil separator, chain tightener, tons of gaskets and seals.
    You can pull a valve cover or drop the pan to inspect why do you think the guides need to be done? Mine went 172k and they were still in good shape.

    - - - Updated - - -

    It's a long list. Make sure you crimp the vanos and replace the seals. Water pump, all the small hoses, the oil separator, chain tightener, tons of gaskets and seals, belt pulleys and tighteners, fan clutch. Most of this can be done when needed but if you are just throwing money at it why not go all the way.
    You can pull a valve cover or drop the pan to inspect why do you think the guides need to be done? Mine went 172k and they were still in good shape.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by acspecialists View Post
    It's a long list. Make sure you crimp the vanos and replace the seals. Water pump, all the small hoses, the oil separator, chain tightener, tons of gaskets and seals.
    You can pull a valve cover or drop the pan to inspect why do you think the guides need to be done? Mine went 172k and they were still in good shape.

    - - - Updated - - -

    It's a long list. Make sure you crimp the vanos and replace the seals. Water pump, all the small hoses, the oil separator, chain tightener, tons of gaskets and seals, belt pulleys and tighteners, fan clutch. Most of this can be done when needed but if you are just throwing money at it why not go all the way.
    You can pull a valve cover or drop the pan to inspect why do you think the guides need to be done? Mine went 172k and they were still in good shape.
    Its a 1998. no Vanos. still, the list is long, just no vanos related stuff will be needed.

    You're gonna wanna do everything, lol.

  4. #4
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    Agreed, anything you have to take off, replace, anything that is easier to get to while you are in there, replace.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexisonfire View Post
    Its a 1998. no Vanos. still, the list is long, just no vanos related stuff will be needed.

    You're gonna wanna do everything, lol.
    True and its before 08/98

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by acspecialists View Post
    It's a long list. Make sure you crimp the vanos and replace the seals. Water pump, all the small hoses, the oil separator, chain tightener, tons of gaskets and seals.
    You can pull a valve cover or drop the pan to inspect why do you think the guides need to be done? Mine went 172k and they were still in good shape.

    - - - Updated - - -

    It's a long list. Make sure you crimp the vanos and replace the seals. Water pump, all the small hoses, the oil separator, chain tightener, tons of gaskets and seals, belt pulleys and tighteners, fan clutch. Most of this can be done when needed but if you are just throwing money at it why not go all the way.
    You can pull a valve cover or drop the pan to inspect why do you think the guides need to be done? Mine went 172k and they were still in good shape.
    You can check by taking off a valve cover? and I bout the car at 96k miles and its sounds somewhat diesel like as they say it can get but I've never head a good hear of one brand new so I don't know if its just fine rn or they are going out. I just don't wanna waste my 100k engine. I'd love to have some help to know if I can wait though, would allow me to put money somewhere is on it.

  6. #6
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    As mention above id drop the oil pan and check for any guides materials (pending if the oil pan haven't been dropped before). If all is good, I'd just replace the timing chain tensioner, change the oil out <10K miles or 1 year and keep an ear out for distinctive metallic rhythmic rattle at all range of engine rpm.

    I think somewhere in 1998 is when they started to introduce vanos, only way to tell is you can see a vanos solenoid on the upper front timing chain cover on both bank. Most vanos will rattle when they age (hence diesel sound) though harmless it will affect the performance and torque linearity.

    Im in the same predicament im at 120k miles and my engine sounds like diesel tractor at idle, and when accelerating I can feel engine is doing some strange rubber band effect under load between 2500-4000 rpm, so im probally will tackle the vanos and everything else in between which will likely cost about more then what I've bought the vehicle for (1500-2000 in parts alone) but it will be something i will tackle eventually.
    Last edited by Actros617; 04-09-2020 at 09:39 PM.

  7. #7
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    Are the chain guides broke or do you want to just spend plenty of $$$$. If they run fine, keep changing oil at good intervals and drive it.

    02 e39 540i Sport (Son), 01 DINAN 7 (Me), 12 e70 X5 x35i (Mrs), 95 e34 525i (Daughter 2), 01 e46 325Ci vert (Daughter 1)

  8. #8
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    Dropping the oil pan to check for bits of guide is super easy. And also check the bolts on the back of the oil pump to see if they’re loose. On my ‘96 with 37k miles several had fallen out and ones that hadn’t were loose.



    So dropping oil pan is job one imo.
    2000 740i Sport | 2004 330xi | 1988 325i Vert | 2003 Z4 2.5 | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by clarkitect View Post
    On my ‘96 with 37k miles several had fallen out and ones that hadn’t were loose.

    .

    The 96 I think had the M60 engine, which has the oil pump bolt issue. This is not a common problem on the M62/M62TU engines. But please check anyway.

    02 e39 540i Sport (Son), 01 DINAN 7 (Me), 12 e70 X5 x35i (Mrs), 95 e34 525i (Daughter 2), 01 e46 325Ci vert (Daughter 1)

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by kouks View Post
    Are the chain guides broke or do you want to just spend plenty of $$$$. If they run fine, keep changing oil at good intervals and drive it.
    If they are still good most important thing is the timing chain tensioner. if the guides are brittle and your tensioner is garbage, kiss your guides good bye one random morning when you go to start it.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by kouks View Post
    The 96 I think had the M60 engine, which has the oil pump bolt issue. This is not a common problem on the M62/M62TU engines. But please check anyway.
    ‘95 has M60, ‘96 the M62. I worked on it, hope I know what’s what haha.
    2000 740i Sport | 2004 330xi | 1988 325i Vert | 2003 Z4 2.5 | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

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