RTAB Brand Identification

[modifiede30]

Went to install my RTABs and f'ed up one side by installing the bushing inserts the wrong way, now likely need to destroy one side to get it out. I can't remember where the hell I bought them and was hoping someone might recognize the design. The only distinguishing identifier is the inner metal sleeve, which has grooves for lubricant. The black outer urethane looks like just about every company's material. Here's a pick of the inner steel sleeve, appears to be stainless steel and not aluminum. Anyone know the manufacturer - I prefer this design over the ones I've seen online but can't find any images showing these grooves. The diameter of the inner sleeve bolt hole matches the Ireland Engineering bolts for the camber/toe kit, which I believe is the stock size bolt. Anyone seen these before and know who makes them?

IMG_20200402_093626.jpg

[PbFut]

I may be missing something... Urethane bushings are generally pretty easy to take on and off. Is the sleeve out? Tap the sleeve out first. It should come out pretty easy.

[modifiede30]

These have shoulders on each end that are pressed in with a metal sleeve that's also pressed in. The only way to remove these is to cut the shoulder off, and press it out like stock bushings. There's no way to grab the shoulder to pull them out and suspect if I could, it would run the bushing material as it's removed.

[PbFut]

Tape out the sleeve. That will remove some of the pressure on the urethane body. Use a tool to position on the lip of the urethane and tap. Or wedge a flat screw driver in between the lip and sleeve of the TA. That will get things started. You should be able to work the bushing free. You just need one side to give and remove. Then you can pop the other half out easily.

[modifiede30]

Tape out the sleeve. That will remove some of the pressure on the urethane body. Use a tool to position on the lip of the urethane and tap. Or wedge a flat screw driver in between the lip and sleeve of the TA. That will get things started. You should be able to work the bushing free. You just need one side to give and remove. Then you can pop the other half out easily.

These are really tough to remove. I had to use a press to get both parts into the trailing arm. I started to press the inner sleeve out, but once the bolt head reached the delrin, I can't get it out further. Took a 5lb sledge hammer to it and it didn't move so not sure getting the insert out by tapping is going to work. I'll try again but seems unlikely.

[modifiede30]

Unfortunately trying to remove them didn't work so well - the delrin can be a bit brittle, and broke but its removed. I found it is from Garagistic, so can figure out the rest at this point.

[PbFut]

Might want to look for something different to avoid same issue in future. No reason for Urethane to be that tight. Glad you were able to figure out a solution.

[modifiede30]

They're delrin, so pretty close to solid and would expect them to be that tight.

[PbFut]

Is this a track car? If not, plan on replacing Delrin every 20K or so. You are getting pretty aggressive for street use.

[modifiede30]

Is this a track car? If not, plan on replacing Delrin every 20K or so. You are getting pretty aggressive for street use.

Yes, track. Delrin and solid aluminum throughout.

[BimmerBreaker]

Yes, track. Delrin and solid aluminum throughout.

Well I guess rattling your teeth out over bumps is cheaper than paying a dentist

[PbFut]

You will like the aluminum SF mounts. Very noticeable for me. I've not done anything Harder than then ~80 Urathane in the TA. All the front is heim joint. If I could get my hands on some good M TAs at close to no cost I would cut them up and experiment with Heims for the rear.
I really need to get some higher end shocks but the engine, tranny and diff keep taking big bits out of the budgeted account the past 3 seasons. Things were getting old and starting to break so it all came out for a refresh before something big took me out for good. Motor just about done. Tranny back from Jerico, and the diff was last spring.

[modifiede30]

You will like the aluminum SF mounts. Very noticeable for me. I've not done anything Harder than then ~80 Urathane in the TA. All the front is heim joint. If I could get my hands on some good M TAs at close to no cost I would cut them up and experiment with Heims for the rear.
I really need to get some higher end shocks but the engine, tranny and diff keep taking big bits out of the budgeted account the past 3 seasons. Things were getting old and starting to break so it all came out for a refresh before something big took me out for good. Motor just about done. Tranny back from Jerico, and the diff was last spring.

Sounds like mine is going the same route for build - all aluminum front with delrin rear - looked at an aluminum insert for the TAs but nothing appealed to me or was within a reasonable cost. I'm also going to replace the steering shaft coupler with aluminum once I get the engine out.

What did you use in your diff for bushing? I've seen conflicting info on using solid vs stock when the other drivetrain and rear suspension are solid mounted. I have a rear diff brace that's welded into the towers for added support but have not added the Forbes kit since the subframe is still solidly attached and isn't showing any stress yet. That may change when I drop the S52 into it though. I've reinforced both the front and rear subframes in different areas - diff mounts, swa bars, control arms, engine mounting, so hoping overall this car is as tight as I envisioned when I started the build.