2010 328i, N52K
Im a newbie to this, so bear with me. I'm going to be replacing my VCG in the next few days since I spotted (and smelled) an oil leak, and decided to replace the valvetronic motor gasket while I'm at it since I heard that can also cause oil leaks. I've got two main questions, but I'm also looking for any advice anyone's got. Here's the guide I'm following https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lu6YJ_io6E
1) I did some digging, and according to Bentley the valve cover bolts should be torqued to 9 Nm (7 ft-lb) on an N52KP engine (mini-question: am I correct in assuming N52KP is the same as N52K?), and the valvetronic motor bolts should be at 10 Nm. Do those sound about right?
2) I initially read that people recommend using Permatex Ultra Black, and that was what I was planning on using, but later I read that there was no need. Which is better? If I should use Ultra Black, how much? Is the amount he puts in the video above alright (he starts putting it at 28:20, https://youtu.be/1lu6YJ_io6E?t=1700 )?
Again, any advice whether it relates to those questions or not is very much appreciated.
Thanks.
How many miles are on the vehicle? If you're over 100k, I would be recommending to replace the complete valve cover, and not just the gasket.
ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician
It just depends really. It's hard to say if and when the crank case vent system will actually go bad. I've seen some as early as 80-90k, but some go to 140 or more. If you don't mind doing the job now, and then again on a few years if it does fail, then do just the gasket. But if you'd rather spend more money now, and only ever do the job once, then do the whole cover.
Or, maybe you go to take the cover off, and end up breaking the covers off the little venty things inside the cover, and have to replace it anyway. It's happened a couple times to me. Just have to be careful taking it off. Those things will catch the edge on something and break right off.
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ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician
Alright, thanks for the advice! I think for now I'll just try the gasket, since Ive got the parts and Im all ready to get it done. I guess we'll see how it goes.
My advice is limited, but here it is...
I did my VCG (and OFHG, etc) last winter. The job wasn't bad.
Upon removing the VC I verified the venting ports were all clean and examined for any fracturing. Looked good, so I reused cover.
I used a little dot of 'liquid gasket' every 4" to help hold the gasket to the VC as I put it in place. (don't let it dry before you install, or it could have negative effect. just a little dot between VC and G)
At 7 ft-lb, this is basically hand tight.
Insert all bolts. Tighten in a cross pattern, going outwards.
Do NOT tighten one down, then another.
Rather, once you feel that the bolts are starting to compress the gasket, turn each bolt a bit at a time, going in the cross pattern.
When I tightened mine, I went over the cross pattern about 8-10 time - which allows the gasket to compress very evenly which also ensures there is not more resistance on the VC in one place than another.
"uniformity" is key to optimal results.
I used my hand only to do all this. In the end, I used my small torque wrench to verify and all were pretty much at the 7 ft-lb already.
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