Weird situation after changing oil. 1983 633csi

[Bimmern00bb]

So here’s a weird situation

1986 633csi - manual

i changed my oil today. Yes I drained the right part. After I finished the oil change, I checked the oil level on the dip stick, every looked good. Lowered the car... and here’s the weird part... my car won’t go into gear! The top part of the clutch feels non existant, only the bottom half of the clutch had any feel to it.

my only though is when I jacked the car up, I jacked it up on one side (driver side) and that is where the clutch fluid pump is. The reservoir is half full, so I’m wondering if me jacking up the car up some how messed with the clutch fluid? Anyways, plan is to bleed the clutch tomorrow and see if that helps... anyone experience this?

[88m53453]

Never seen that , but i guess it's possible. To get a good bleed on the clutch, it is best to remove the slave cylinder and point the bleeder screw upward, making it the highest point. loosen the screw and push the rod in by hand. Tighten the bleeder while holding the rod in. It's a bit of chore, but doable. Before you do all that, just try pumping the clutch pedal a bunch, say 30-40 times, might fix it right up

[DesktopDave]

Never happened to me, but it's not impossible. I'd drop the kick panel & check the clutch pedal linkage, you might just have a broken return spring. I have heard of cars with broken pedals, perches, or pivots.

I'd check to see if the return spring had fallen off its mount, parts 20-23 in this schematic. It's not really secured in any way, just held in by tension. I'd also suspect something going on with the master cyl, perhaps the reservoir feed line has popped off. It's part 5 in this schematic.

[Bimmern00bb]

Checking it now. Looking down at the pedals just noticed there was a leak. Not sure if that anything to do with anything

https://imgur.com/gallery/BdYgHLd

[Bimmern00bb]

Does anybody have instructions or videos of how to change the master and slave cylinder ?

[DesktopDave]

That does definitely look like a leak.

It's not that hard to do, although getting under the steering column is pretty hard on the back. I was hoping it's just a leak at the supply fitting, but yours looks like it's leaking from the inner seal. Bleeding a hydraulic clutch is hit or miss in my experience. I prefer pressure bleeding brakes from the reservoir but that's not the way to do a clutch. I've had some luck with reverse bleeding the system, here's a decent video. He takes a while to describe how the system works, skip ahead to 5:26 to see the oil can tool that's essential to make it work. You could use a large syringe too, along with some vinyl tubing.

As for replacing the cylinders, I did this job last year. I'd strongly recommend a new clutch hose while you're in there.
I'm quoting this from memory (hopefully it's not terribly inaccurate):
The master cyl on late model cars is retained by two 10mm bolts on the pedal bracket. IIRC the clutch pedal & steering column is very much in the way. I might have used a broomstick to keep the brake pedal more-or-less out of the way. The flare nut is also difficult to get at, down on the firewall under the booster assembly. Be careful with the firewall bushing, mine came out along with the master cyl. It wasn't fun to fit back in place.

The slave cyl is secured by two 13mm nuts. Be sure the pushrod is the same length on the replacement slave, and be sure the pushrod solidly engages the clutch fork inside the bellhousing when you put it back together. It should fight you a little. Don't try bleeding the system unless the slave is installed, it'll blow the slave piston out.

[Bimmern00bb]

Much appreciated. Last question. As far as the brake/clutch fluid goes. I’ve read ATE gold/blue were the way to go, does that matter? Or can is just get any DOT 4 brake fluid? (Prestone, Castro’s etc)

- - - Updated - - -

Also do you mean the hose from the master to slave? Or from the reservoir to the cylinder?

Thank you!

[Bimmern00bb]

I also forgot to ask 2 things

http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E2...den_cable_lhd/


Part number 5, was pretty much directly under the master cylinder and looks like all the leaking wore down part number “7” the bushing. So now the rod completely comes out making it unsafe to drive. I’ve ordered two new bushings however I am unable to source part number 8, the “clip” would it be okay/safe to just install the bushings without the clip?



Lastly. This is unrelated, but I’m looking to replace the selector shift shaft seal by the transmission and while I’m down there I want to replace all the washers, coupling etc that connects to the shifter (I will be replacing with a Z3 1.9 short shift) is there a diagram on bmwfans that shows what parts I would need to replace everything? Unable to find it myself


Thanks again

[DesktopDave]

That clip is in stock at lots of places (Pelican for ~$1) but with shipping I'd guess it's pretty expensive. If I get a chance I'll check my parts to see if I have a spare. I have driven a few Bimmers without the accelerator bushings solidly in place, never really had a problem. Just makes the throttle feel a little numb.

BMW does make it difficult, those parts are spread over several different diagrams. Just for reference, I did find a custom E30 shifter rebuild kit at ECS Tuning, but it's for the early sheet steel type shift linkage on an E30. They claim it won't work for the E24, but I think it might.

Mine has a Getrag 265 with the older sheet steel type. You'd need to replace the plastic washers on the selector rod, two plastic cups on the shifter & inside the shifter support, a rear rubber 'snubber' (10), two shifter mounting blocks (1). The selector shaft coupling also has an internal rubber biscuit (part 4).

[Bimmern00bb]

Hey Dave! Thanks for all the info. I just wanted to clarify, when you said you strongly recommend changing out the clutch hose. You meant the one going from the master to the slave cylinder right?