e39 i6 head gasket kit question

[Charofire]

There are several different head gasket kits on eBay for the e39. I'm assuming the low end, inexpensive kits are to be avoided. Can someone suggest which manufacturer is OK to buy from for hg?

[Asbradley21]

Elring

[Aubergine]

My BMW Master Tech friend advised me to go with the BMW HG and bolts, then OES (Elring, Victor Reinz, etc) for the rest of the parts. So far I have been very happy with the BMW gasket and apparently the OES grade ones, especially Victor Reinz have a higher failure rate.

Make sure you get the +.3MM since the BMW advises anytime the head comes off an I6 engine (even of not head material is removed) the thicker gasket is need.

[ross1]

My BMW Master Tech friend advised me to go with the BMW HG and bolts, then OES (Elring, Victor Reinz, etc) for the rest of the parts. So far I have been very happy with the BMW gasket and apparently the OES grade ones, especially Victor Reinz have a higher failure rate.

Make sure you get the +.3MM since the BMW advises anytime the head comes off an I6 engine (even of not head material is removed) the thicker gasket is need.

How many have failed you?
I think the problem is user error, not the gasket brand. Dipsheets too lazy or cheap to properly prepare or even check the surfaces, clean and chase the bolt holes and replace the bolts when called for are doomed from the get go. How many of these "failures" are due to sloppy prep? Virtually all, I'd say. Perhaps a correlation between a lower priced gasket and amateurs??

No good reason to use a thicker gasket unless the head has been milled. I've never read where even the genaumeisters in Bavaria say to use a thicker one with standard dimension heads.

If the head and block are flat any good brand gasket is fine, VR included. I believe VR to be OE for some applications.

[effduration]

I have done a couple of head gaskets on these engines..2 while engine in car, and 2-3 while on an engine stand. I haven't had one fail yet...I am driving one of them daily.

I use Elring head gaskets. As for Aubergine's comments above on the use of thicker gasket, there is a difference of opinion, although I see no harm in always using a thicker gasket.. This is what I do: Per BMW spec, you can take off a maximum of 12 or 13 thousandths of an inch (approx 0.30mm) of material from a head.. If I take off more than 6-7 thousandths, I use the thicker gasket (the two gaskets are 1.0mm or 0.70mm thick), If I take off less, I use the thinner gasket.

I ALWAYS time-sert the engine block- whether or not the engine overheated. I use time-sert kit 1090 which is made for the M54 /M52TU engine and includes a jig to make time-sert installation nearly fool-proof. It feels to me that the aluminum threads in the M54 block are really one-time use...

I use German-made Beck/Arnley head bolts - part #016-1048, and tighten them to spec using the M54 tightening sequence posted online.

[djb2]

I've used a low end head gasket kit and had it seal properly.

I actually intended to use it only for a compression test and purchase a more expensive gasket later. It sealed perfectly and I ended up being under time pressure, so it stayed in.

Previously I had decided use the kit's valve stem seals. They looked to be very nicely made, claimed to be Viton, and were brown. Since I had committed to the critical parts, I decided to use most of the rest of the gaskets in the kit as an experiment.

MLS (multi-layer steel) head gaskets are a mature technology. Pretty much any head gasket will seal if the surfaces are properly prepared. The BMW sourced head gasket is a nicer part and might be more likely to seal if you skimp on prep work or have scratches from too-aggressive cleaning.

No head gasket will work if you have an undetected crack. If you are replacing the head gasket because of an over-heat, it's fairly likely that there is a crack.

There were a few parts that I didn't use from the kit. The sealing washers were aluminum. BMW specifies tin plated copper for most washers that seal against aluminum (dissimilar metals to prevent galling). I didn't use the cam sensor o-rings or manifold air temperature o-ring because the originals were green HNBR and the kit had regular black (presumably nitrile/NBR) o-rings. I also didn't use the VANOS solenoid o-rings and the fuel injector o-rings.

[effduration]

No head gasket will work if you have an undetected crack. If you are replacing the head gasket because of an over-heat, it's fairly likely that there is a crack.

I will respectfully disagree with this. I would suggest way less than 50% of overheated M54 heads have cracks..maybe 10%, and that may be high.

I have fixed 8+ M54 cylinder heads..at least 6 had overheated. I have re-installed 5 heads and have 3 ready to go on the shelf...all have been checked and decked by a machinist and none were cracked...I actually have three that were baked in an oven to correct warpage of more than 12 thousandths..

I also follow the various forum posts on M54 overheats and head gaskets with interest (all the forums: E46, E53, ZHPmafia, etc.) and while there are occasional posts of cracked heads, they are rare. Most people who go to the effort to replace a head gasket after an overheat re-use the head with proper machine work and don't find any cracks.

[Aubergine]

How many have failed you?
I think the problem is user error, not the gasket brand. Dipsheets too lazy or cheap to properly prepare or even check the surfaces, clean and chase the bolt holes and replace the bolts when called for are doomed from the get go. How many of these "failures" are due to sloppy prep? Virtually all, I'd say. Perhaps a correlation between a lower priced gasket and amateurs??

No good reason to use a thicker gasket unless the head has been milled. I've never read where even the genaumeisters in Bavaria say to use a thicker one with standard dimension heads.

If the head and block are flat any good brand gasket is fine, VR included. I believe VR to be OE for some applications.

The information was passed along to me by a BMW Master Technician often quoted in Roundel by Mike Miller. He has been working on M52, M52TU, and M54 cars since they were new and said that while he has had aftermarket head gaskets work for a while (Elring and VR) they did not ever last as long as one with a BMW stamp on it.

In regard to the thicker HG, he advised that he started changing these heads in the mid-90s when the M50TUs would overheat or have issues. BMW instruction was that due to the compression of the M50TU, the M52, and M52TU/M54 they would not warranty work where the head had been re-installed using the original thickness gasket. The compression is such that the +.3MM would almost always be the right amount of 'extra' to keep the original ratings but not create a situation where the compression was just high enough to induce more wear on the gasket than intended and possibly shorten the life.

I will respectfully disagree with this. I would suggest way less than 50% of overheated M54 heads have cracks..maybe 10%, and that may be high.

I have fixed 8+ M54 cylinder heads..at least 6 had overheated. I have re-installed 5 heads and have 3 ready to go on the shelf...all have been checked and decked by a machinist and none were cracked...I actually have three that were baked in an oven to correct warpage of more than 12 thousandths..

I also follow the various forum posts on M54 overheats and head gaskets with interest (all the forums: E46, E53, ZHPmafia, etc.) and while there are occasional posts of cracked heads, they are rare. Most people who go to the effort to replace a head gasket after an overheat re-use the head with proper machine work and don't find any cracks.

'

I will agree with this. Cracked heads are most often found on iron block BMW engines due to the aluminum heating and cooling at different rates than the iron. On the all iron engines the whole engine heats and cools at more similar rates thus fewer cracked heads, but more warped blocks. Regardless, it is good practice to check that both the head and block are true.

[effduration]

The information was passed along to me by a BMW Master Technician often quoted in Roundel by Mike Miller. He has been working on M52, M52TU, and M54 cars since they were new and said that while he has had aftermarket head gaskets work for a while (Elring and VR) they did not ever last as long as one with a BMW stamp on it.

In regard to the thicker HG, he advised that he started changing these heads in the mid-90s when the M50TUs would overheat or have issues. BMW instruction was that due to the compression of the M50TU, the M52, and M52TU/M54 they would not warranty work where the head had been re-installed using the original thickness gasket. The compression is such that the +.3MM would almost always be the right amount of 'extra' to keep the original ratings but not create a situation where the compression was just high enough to induce more wear on the gasket than intended and possibly shorten the life.

All good points..and I won't argue.....the use of a thinner gasket can lead to higher compression. but I will offer the following observations:

Very few Master Techs working at dealers (and Miller's favorite is at a dealer in PA) did head gaskets on M54 or M52TU.. They were/are all capable of doing them, but in most cases a head gasket on an all-aluminum M54/M52TU necessitated an engine replacement at any dealer. Might have been different on M50 and M52 with iron blocks.

If a Master Tech did do a head gasket on an M54/M52TU, they almost certainly did not use time-serts in the block. Time-serting an M54 block has become standard procedure by most folks who do an M54 head gasket and improves the success rate substantially regardless of what head gasket is used. The use of time-serts would not change the compression issue.

Lastly, there are surprisingly few reports on all the M54 forums (E46, E53, etc) of head gasket failure AFTER replacement. You can certainly have a problem on installation (gouged head, etc.) but we rarely see a head gasket fail a year or two after replacement, absent a cooling system problem. Among all the reports of head gaskets on these forums, using thick or standard gaskets, from Elring, Corteco, VR, or BMW, with questionable prep of block and head, and using head bolts of uncertain quality, we see few failures.

[djb2]

I will respectfully disagree with this. I would suggest way less than 50% of overheated M54 heads have cracks..maybe 10%, and that may be high.

I have fixed 8+ M54 cylinder heads..at least 6 had overheated. I have re-installed 5 heads and have 3 ready to go on the shelf...all have been checked and decked by a machinist and none were cracked...I actually have three that were baked in an oven to correct warpage of more than 12 thousandths..

I also follow the various forum posts on M54 overheats and head gaskets with interest (all the forums: E46, E53, ZHPmafia, etc.) and while there are occasional posts of cracked heads, they are rare. Most people who go to the effort to replace a head gasket after an overheat re-use the head with proper machine work and don't find any cracks.

You have more direct data than I do, so I won't disagree too much except to suggest that 10% might be low.

It appears that baking the heads is increasingly accepted as the only reasonable way to recover a head that has more than a trivial warp. It's needed to flatten warp on the cam carrier ledge and relieve internal stress that will show up over time, not just minimize the material the material cut.

How much do you pay for that service? Is it cost-effective?

[effduration]

You have more direct data than I do, so I won't disagree too much except to suggest that 10% might be low.

It appears that baking the heads is increasingly accepted as the only reasonable way to recover a head that has more than a trivial warp. It's needed to flatten warp on the cam carrier ledge and relieve internal stress that will show up over time, not just minimize the material the material cut.

How much do you pay for that service? Is it cost-effective?

Very good point....The machinist I used for the bake kept saying...." I am NOT trying to straighten the large flat surface. I am trying to straighten the cam line..." M54 appear to warp at both the block level and the cam level...which is important to anyone trying to bake it back into shape. However the warpage along both cam lines was not the same..meaning there was some twist between exhaust and intake side.

No. Not cost effective..I was trying to see if it worked and I paid $800 ea. That included full valve work- spring-testing, seals, etc.. I think I could get it down to $400 or less with a little more shopping. The machinist I used does mostly race and other high $$ work and had a firm opinion on the value he brings to machine work. He wouldn't quote a price until he had straightened one. He was interested in doing it though as he hadn't done one before. The bake temps and time in the oven appear to be more art than science and he went to school with my three heads. it sounded like 500 degrees between 10-15 minutes with the head bolted to a steel plate with shims. I justified/paid for this expense by selling a few parts I had.

I really do HATE throwing out M54 cylinder heads..I think we may find good used M54 engines in short supply in a few years. M52TUs are already becoming less plentiful.

[balidawg]

A good used M54 complete engine with warranty is like $600 now. I would not rebuild an M54 these days.

[E39 Newbie]

A good used M54 complete engine with warranty is like $600 now. I would not rebuild an M54 these days.

Agreed. Although the ones I've seen were closer to $900, it still makes no economic sense to rebuild at this point. When I compared the price of reconditioning the head vs. a replacement (and lower mileage) engine, it was a no-brainer. In my case the block was also warped. Even if it could have been fixed, the cost of the machine work alone would have made it unfeasible, let alone all the ancillary parts like bearings, pistons, yada, yada.

[effduration]

A good used M54 complete engine with warranty is like $600 now. I would not rebuild an M54 these days.

A good used M54 complete engine with warranty is like $600 now. I would not rebuild an M54 these days.

What you typically get for $600 to $900 is an oil-covered engine with 150k miles on it that has been hacked out from the car it came from. It LIKELY burns oil, as most M54's do. Warranty - You need to always read the fine print on warranties...often (not always), they ONLY apply if a professional mechanic installs it. Warranties are nice in theory, but you don't really ever want to collect on one, given all the labor to pull, install, connect an engine.

Nobody simply throws in a used M54 engine - you need to refresh it first - see below.

I like rebuilding M54's. when I have the head off, I take the opportunity to remove the oil pan & pump and replace piston rings with the upgraded Mahle (OEM) rings which don't suffer the clogged oil drain holes and therefore won't consume oil..My goal is to have 3-4 rebuilt, non-oil burning 3.0 M54's (and one M52TU) waiting to go into a deserving E39, E46, X5, X3, Z3 or Z4. I am also thinking about trying to put an M54 into a non-BMW chassis...

As for economics, I'd say it's closer than you think. And if it's close, I 'd rather have my rebuilt engine with new rings. Keep in mind there are "engine refresh" costs that you would want to spend on any used engine, which will push the price up considerably.

Part 1: Comparable to used engine:
- I get the engine for nearly nothing ($100) because it overheated or had a burnt valve
- Typical machine work on a head is closer to $200-$300 depending on warpage and any valve work.
- piston rings, conn-rod bearings & bolts: $225
- Head gasket & Bolts: $125
So, that's (100+300+225+125) = $750 for a rebuilt engine with new piston rings - way better than a used engine.

Part 2 - Refresh engine - same $ for either rebuilt engine or used engine
$600 (estimated) - heater pipes, rear main seal, CCV, Oil pan gasket, Oil Filter housing gasket, Thermostat, water pump, plugs, valve cover gasket, etc., vanos line, vanos seals

So, I probably have $1350 into each engine, excluding my time, but $600 of that is cost to refresh the engine, which you would spend on a used engine. The $800 cylinder heads discussed above are a special case..

[ross1]

The information was passed along to me by a BMW Master Technician often quoted in Roundel by Mike Miller. He has been working on M52, M52TU, and M54 cars since they were new and said that while he has had aftermarket head gaskets work for a while (Elring and VR) they did not ever last as long as one with a BMW stamp on it.

In regard to the thicker HG, he advised that he started changing these heads in the mid-90s when the M50TUs would overheat or have issues. BMW instruction was that due to the compression of the M50TU, the M52, and M52TU/M54 they would not warranty work where the head had been re-installed using the original thickness gasket. The compression is such that the +.3MM would almost always be the right amount of 'extra' to keep the original ratings but not create a situation where the compression was just high enough to induce more wear on the gasket than intended and possibly shorten the life.

'

.

So, hearsay, several times removed.
A BMW master technician(this amateur mechanic has corrected the work of "master technicians" more than once), presumably at a dealership, would be unlikely to be using anything other than what come across his dealership's parts counter.
Again, pretty sure VR is one of the OE providers. Also again, how many have failed you?

As for a thicker gasket, the implication of raised compression would indicate for a head had been milled so yes it is then appropriate but not life changing.
Anyway, what all of us have said regarding this is anecdotal. I prefer my own anecdotal evidence and I've never had a head gasket of any brand (I never buy something obviously inferior regardless of price) fail and have not seen any other fail for anything other than installer error, bad prep. or procedure.

[djb2]

I second that: a BMW mechanic won't be rebuilding an engine, or any other part for that matter. They replace complete assemblies and modules. Any rebuilt part come from a regional contract rebuilder, where the process and quality can be monitored. You'll be offered a rebuilt engine or transmission, not an option for an in-house rebuild.

The warranty on a boneyard engine is usually of little value. They aren't saying that the engine is good, they are saying that you can test it at your expense and they will send another if you can prove that the first is bad. And typically if the second is bad, that's your problem. They will require certain new parts be installed (e.g. water pump, etc.) and sometime professional installation to use the warranty, but they won't reimburse for those expense if the engine is bad.

[E39 Newbie]

What you typically get for $600 to $900 is an oil-covered engine with 150k miles on it that has been hacked out from the car it came from. It LIKELY burns oil, as most M54's do. Warranty - You need to always read the fine print on warranties...often (not always), they ONLY apply if a professional mechanic installs it. Warranties are nice in theory, but you don't really ever want to collect on one, given all the labor to pull, install, connect an engine.

Nobody simply throws in a used M54 engine - you need to refresh it first - see below.

I like rebuilding M54's. when I have the head off, I take the opportunity to remove the oil pan & pump and replace piston rings with the upgraded Mahle (OEM) rings which don't suffer the clogged oil drain holes and therefore won't consume oil..My goal is to have 3-4 rebuilt, non-oil burning 3.0 M54's (and one M52TU) waiting to go into a deserving E39, E46, X5, X3, Z3 or Z4. I am also thinking about trying to put an M54 into a non-BMW chassis...

As for economics, I'd say it's closer than you think. And if it's close, I 'd rather have my rebuilt engine with new rings. Keep in mind there are "engine refresh" costs that you would want to spend on any used engine, which will push the price up considerably.

Part 1: Comparable to used engine:
- I get the engine for nearly nothing ($100) because it overheated or had a burnt valve
- Typical machine work on a head is closer to $200-$300 depending on warpage and any valve work.
- piston rings, conn-rod bearings & bolts: $225
- Head gasket & Bolts: $125
So, that's (100+300+225+125) = $750 for a rebuilt engine with new piston rings - way better than a used engine.

Part 2 - Refresh engine - same $ for either rebuilt engine or used engine
$600 (estimated) - heater pipes, rear main seal, CCV, Oil pan gasket, Oil Filter housing gasket, Thermostat, water pump, plugs, valve cover gasket, etc., vanos line, vanos seals

So, I probably have $1350 into each engine, excluding my time, but $600 of that is cost to refresh the engine, which you would spend on a used engine. The $800 cylinder heads discussed above are a special case..

The economics are interesting. I've not rebuilt one of these so am a bit ignorant.

I know I keep harping on it, but I did get an engine from LKQ for something less than $900. For that I received an engine that had been tested (they told me they test every engine before it's pulled from the donor), pressure washed, and all the ports (very tightly) sealed. As you said, there was a fair amount of refreshing, some they specify so that the warranty will remain in effect, other things just because I had it apart. But you do have to replace oil pan gaskets, front and rear seals, water pump, valve cover gasket.

In my case I had fully intended to refurb the head of my overheated original engine and reinstall it, but the block was so severely warped that there was no point in continuing.

One question. On these M54s, is it really feasible to simply re-ring them? Meaning in your experience is it rare that the block needs machine work? Not just milling the deck but boring/honing the cylinders? In my admittedly newbie calculations, I had factored in machine work on the block and new pistons. I'm told a new set is in the $500 - $800 range. So, it would appear that fully rebuilding one of these would not make economic sense. But if none of that is normally necessary, then your $1300+ estimate seems pretty close to the mark for either method. I think that's roughly what I wound up putting into mine.

[effduration]

The economics are interesting. I've not rebuilt one of these so am a bit ignorant.

I know I keep harping on it, but I did get an engine from LKQ for something less than $900. For that I received an engine that had been tested (they told me they test every engine before it's pulled from the donor), pressure washed, and all the ports (very tightly) sealed. As you said, there was a fair amount of refreshing, some they specify so that the warranty will remain in effect, other things just because I had it apart. But you do have to replace oil pan gaskets, front and rear seals, water pump, valve cover gasket.

In my case I had fully intended to refurb the head of my overheated original engine and reinstall it, but the block was so severely warped that there was no point in continuing.

One question. On these M54s, is it really feasible to simply re-ring them? Meaning in your experience is it rare that the block needs machine work? Not just milling the deck but boring/honing the cylinders? In my admittedly newbie calculations, I had factored in machine work on the block and new pistons. I'm told a new set is in the $500 - $800 range. So, it would appear that fully rebuilding one of these would not make economic sense. But if none of that is normally necessary, then your $1300+ estimate seems pretty close to the mark for either method. I think that's roughly what I wound up putting into mine.

For a giggle I took a look at engine options from LKQ - they do enjoy one of the better reputations...Sure enough I see an M54 3.0 in my state with 119k on it for $900...not bad...I then took a look at the LKQ engine warranty. http://adobe.ly/1jcMXc7. In addition to what you mention for required replacement parts in order to validate the warranty, they ALSO REQUIRE the buyer to replace flywheel and flywheel bolts. It's unclear if they would require a new flexplate for an automatic. For a manual, that's an extra $400...ouch...In practice, I don't read too many stories of LKQ refusing warranty claims. The LKQ warranty period is 6 months or 6,000 miles.

You can refresh these engines without new pistons and boring the cylinders..I don't even replace crank bearings. On high mileage blocks, you would want to mic the bores and pistons and confirm they are still in spec, but every time I see someone blueprint an M54, even one with more than 150k miles, it is still well within spec. 50's kid did this in one of his videos

In my experience, it IS rare that a block needs work even in a bad overheat. I check my blocks with a straight edge or have them checked, but they are still flat. I have seen a couple of reports like yours though, so it is possible. I discarded a block recently due to a burned piston failure - a portion of it melted during an overheat and scored the cylinder wall. I tried to hone the cylinder but couldn't get it smooth. Obviously a warped or damaged block, OR head warpage greater than 12 thousandths will push machining costs above the point of being economic.

What did you do with your old engine? If you still have it, you might see what the head costs are (maybe you did this). A refurbished head has good value. ($500+) As do 3.0 cranks, cams and pistons. I just sold a 3.0 crank for $300..

[ross1]

What you typically get for $600 to $900 is an oil-covered engine with 150k miles on it that has been hacked out from the car it came from. It LIKELY burns oil, as most M54's do. Warranty - You need to always read the fine print on warranties...often (not always), they ONLY apply if a professional mechanic installs it. Warranties are nice in theory, but you don't really ever want to collect on one, given all the labor to pull, install, connect an engine.


In my experience, it IS rare that a block needs work even in a bad overheat.

I assume you are excluding the head bolt threads.

Well said. I don't think most junkyards deliberately sell bad merchandise but few go out of their way to verify good either. If they get a running car then okay, the knuckle dragger that dismantles cars gives an opinion.
One J Y, I believe a sponsor here, claims to "dyno test" them. When questioned about said "dyno" the answer was nebulous at best. Something about turning the engine over with an electric motor ( I want to see that rig) listening for noises and observing if there was oil pressure, not what one could call comprehensive.

Warranty requirements in some cases are simply absurd and seemingly meant only as a way out their obligation.

Me, I'd rather buy an entire car(and have)to get a known good engine then do whatever else is required. Too much of a crap shoot with junkyards who'll not reimburse for anything and likely put up a fight to even replace the turd they sold you.

[effduration]

I assume you are excluding the head bolt threads.

Well said. I don't think most junkyards deliberately sell bad merchandise but few go out of their way to verify good either. If they get a running car then okay, the knuckle dragger that dismantles cars gives an opinion.
One J Y, I believe a sponsor here, claims to "dyno test" them. When questioned about said "dyno" the answer was nebulous at best. Something about turning the engine over with an electric motor ( I want to see that rig) listening for noises and observing if there was oil pressure, not what one could call comprehensive.

Warranty requirements in some cases are simply absurd and seemingly meant only as a way out their obligation.

Me, I'd rather buy an entire car(and have)to get a known good engine then do whatever else is required. Too much of a crap shoot with junkyards who'll not reimburse for anything and likely put up a fight to even replace the turd they sold you.

Sorry, yes I WAS excluding head bolt threads. As a matter of course, I always install time-serts in an M54 block when I take the head off- whether or not it overheated. I have both the time-sert and big-sert jigs for the M54 engine.

I agree - buying a running parts car after a quick compression test- even if the SES light is on - is a good way to go.

[E39 Newbie]

For a giggle I took a look at engine options from LKQ - they do enjoy one of the better reputations...Sure enough I see an M54 3.0 in my state with 119k on it for $900...not bad...I then took a look at the LKQ engine warranty. http://adobe.ly/1jcMXc7. In addition to what you mention for required replacement parts in order to validate the warranty, they ALSO REQUIRE the buyer to replace flywheel and flywheel bolts. It's unclear if they would require a new flexplate for an automatic. For a manual, that's an extra $400...ouch...In practice, I don't read too many stories of LKQ refusing warranty claims. The LKQ warranty period is 6 months or 6,000 miles.

You can refresh these engines without new pistons and boring the cylinders..I don't even replace crank bearings. On high mileage blocks, you would want to mic the bores and pistons and confirm they are still in spec, but every time I see someone blueprint an M54, even one with more than 150k miles, it is still well within spec. 50's kid did this in one of his videos

In my experience, it IS rare that a block needs work even in a bad overheat. I check my blocks with a straight edge or have them checked, but they are still flat. I have seen a couple of reports like yours though, so it is possible. I discarded a block recently due to a burned piston failure - a portion of it melted during an overheat and scored the cylinder wall. I tried to hone the cylinder but couldn't get it smooth. Obviously a warped or damaged block, OR head warpage greater than 12 thousandths will push machining costs above the point of being economic.

What did you do with your old engine? If you still have it, you might see what the head costs are (maybe you did this). A refurbished head has good value. ($500+) As do 3.0 cranks, cams and pistons. I just sold a 3.0 crank for $300..

Interesting about them rarely requiring cylinder work. I'll keep that in mind if I ever have to do this again on another car.

The PO warped the bejeezus out of the thing. The block was U shaped and the head was an inverted U shape. I asked my machinist about the flatness specs. He told me for a MLS gasket it should not exceed .0025" in any direction. Well, both block and head were well beyond that. I had intended to time-sert the block but no dice.

LKQ wanted the old engine back. The replacement came with a dual-mass flywheel (it was out of a 325i), so I sold that and the injectors that came with it just to recoup a few bux. I probably could have retained the old crank and rods and cams. I think they were mainly interested in getting the block, heads and maybe oil pan back.

[effduration]

...
LKQ wanted the old engine back. The replacement came with a dual-mass flywheel (it was out of a 325i), so I sold that and the injectors that came with it just to recoup a few bux. I probably could have retained the old crank and rods and cams. I think they were mainly interested in getting the block, heads and maybe oil pan back.

So LKQ has a core charge on engines? So, $900 for a used engine is actually $900 plus your old engine...

The old engine - even overheated - does have a value greater than zero...I'll put that into my economic analysis for the future.

[E39 Newbie]

So LKQ has a core charge on engines? So, $900 for a used engine is actually $900 plus your old engine...

The old engine - even overheated - does have a value greater than zero...I'll put that into my economic analysis for the future.

That's correct. There is a core charge. In my case the engine was probably worth whatever scrap aluminum goes for these days. The guy who collected the engine said they really only care about the block and head, so I probably could have kept the 325 oil pan and defrayed my costs by another few bux.

[Charofire]

Update. The engine had clearly already been apart. there were some poorly repaired block threads (3 to be exact). This explains the coolant loss. What's amazing is probably 6 of the cam bolts were lose when I removed the head! i.e. backed out several turns. The head was definitely rebuilt at some point. The bronze guides were still very clean and this engine used no oil between changes at 3-5k mileage, so that's not possible on a 240k mileage engine since valve steam seals would be problematic at 20 years. I bought a 2001 330i engine for $650 that I was able to hear run. I'll keep the the 528i injection and TB since its a '99 and not compatible with the 2001 330i.

[effduration]

Update. The engine had clearly already been apart. there were some poorly repaired block threads (3 to be exact). This explains the coolant loss. What's amazing is probably 6 of the cam bolts were lose when I removed the head! i.e. backed out several turns. The head was definitely rebuilt at some point. The bronze guides were still very clean and this engine used no oil between changes at 3-5k mileage, so that's not possible on a 240k mileage engine since valve steam seals would be problematic at 20 years. I bought a 2001 330i engine for $650 that I was able to hear run. I'll keep the the 528i injection and TB since its a '99 and not compatible with the 2001 330i.

M52TU engines - even high mileage ones - typically don't burn oil because of different (better) oil ring design than the one used in M54. Both engines can leak plenty of oil....

You can certainly run the M54 engine in your M52TU, but the DME is not optimized for it. Yes, the M54 has some 35 more horses, but you likely wont feel it. due to the M52TU intake, etc. The higher HP is really most obvious above 5k RPMs. Your M54 is likely to burn oil...most do.

Unless your M52TU is obviously damaged, I would fix that engine and put it back in.

EDIT: I see you got quite a bit of input on this issue from the E46 crowd.. If you do go with the M54, please keep us posted...