2000 M Roadster suspension

[PiperMroadster]

I have a 2000 M Roadster that has leaking shocks up front. About 50k miles on the car. Mechanic said the spring is ok, but at 20 years old, are they really ok? So the question is... what do I replace it with to keep stock height and keep a similar stock ride. Of course I could just go with stock parts, but I am thinking in the past 20 years there have to be better options that give a smoother ride, but better handling and stock height for a reasonable cost. I am not looking to spend a ton and get into replacing all sorts of parts.

Car is not tracked, used as a weekend driver, sometimes daily if weather is good. I live in Northern New Jersey which is pot hole central and I drive a lot, which is why i do not want to lower the car at all, and also dont want to stiffen the suspension and make the car not fun to drive because my teeth are rattling out...but I do tend to get a little spirited on windy roads, so handling is important.

I am not a wrencher or tinkerer (would be professionally installed), i dont want to be adjusting things all the time. Want to replace these, have the car handle and ride good, do my regular maintenance and have no headaches. Also, any parts that would be 'dumb' not to replace while I have the car apart?

thanks in advance!

[PbFut]

You need a compliant system for the roads you drive. Do NOT go the H&R Bilstein route. That is a very harsh ride and you will be hating the result.
There are many threads on this subject and a bit of searching will yield a lot of info but often conflicting.
You will spend a little more but TC Kline will provide the best ride for your needs. They have basic non adjustable and medium level performance adjustable stuff. Once set, you will not be adjusting the setting for your use if you go that route but you probably don't need to go that high in level. TC Kline have a non-adjustable set that provides a better ride over OEM as well as a bit more grip and is reasonably priced. And you can call the shop with any question and get some very good answers. Mechanic is correct, springs you have are still good, but changing to match the shocks you purchase will result in a overall better net result. Or if you are ok with the ride it has, just find some OEM replacements and be done with it.

[SteveG66]

Congrats on your purchase, I'm 2 years into a 99 M Roadster, that was the first thing i did was to replace the shocks on all 4 corners. I chose Konis with the original springs and am very satisfied with the ride quality.

While they're replacing the shocks, it is generally recommended to at least replace the rear shock mounts which i did, i chose to replace the front mounts another day.

Hope this helps and welcome!!

[PiperMroadster]

@steveg66 and @pbfut thanks for your replies. I will check out the Koni's. i did a lot of searching around and see tons of opinions, lots are conflicting as you allude to. Also, sometimes it is hard to determine if the setup is for track use or aggressive street use. Also I am finding some trouble with Z3's trying to upgrade to a more M setup vs M's changing setups. All very confusing!

[zellamay]

You have an "M setup", so don't change a thing. I didn't want to lower the car, (I had done that to a previous car, and constantly fought tire wear), and my car needs are similar to yours. I also put Konis on stock springs. It's a pretty good upgrade, and I would say the most popular, considering price. Probably not as good as TC stuff, but significantly cheaper. ...... I also put in poly (I used IE brand) subframe bushings. I know you don't want to get way into it, but you want any good handling, this mod is a "must". I described it as "suddenly the back end started following the front end around corners". Ya gotta do it. I'm gonna go out on a limb here, and say that poly subframe bushings is money better spent than coilovers.

[KeysCoupe]

I'm another fan of Koni yellows. Just adjust them at or near "full soft" settings. They are a noticable improvement over stock, but are very compliant and not harsh.
-Donny

[spfd72]

I am a bit reluctant to add my experience as I know there are many more knowledgeable on this board and I don’t want to create a “ my suspension is better” debate. However, I have a 2000 M roadster with ~55k miles as well. I agonized over replacement of shocks/struts. Many opinions here and I reached out to BMWCCA tech writer Mike Miller who recommended bilstein��. I installed b6 on all 4 corners as well as powerflex subframe bushings (a great DIY story for later time). I love the results. Sports car ride and response. I’m admittedly probably not nuanced on the transients of handling as the track junkies, but like potter Stewart on pornography-I know it when I see it. Less squat and dive and compliant ride. I’m satisfied. (and I have a Porsche Cayman as well for a comparator).

[ProductUser]

I am a bit reluctant to add my experience as I know there are many more knowledgeable on this board and I don’t want to create a “ my suspension is better” debate. However, I have a 2000 M roadster with ~55k miles as well. I agonized over replacement of shocks/struts. Many opinions here and I reached out to BMWCCA tech writer Mike Miller who recommended bilstein��. I installed b6 on all 4 corners as well as powerflex subframe bushings (a great DIY story for later time). I love the results. Sports car ride and response. I’m admittedly probably not nuanced on the transients of handling as the track junkies, but like potter Stewart on pornography-I know it when I see it. Less squat and dive and compliant ride. I’m satisfied. (and I have a Porsche Cayman as well for a comparator).

That's hilarious! Well said!

[pine1000]

I am a bit reluctant to add my experience as I know there are many more knowledgeable on this board and I don’t want to create a “ my suspension is better” debate. However, I have a 2000 M roadster with ~55k miles as well. I agonized over replacement of shocks/struts. Many opinions here and I reached out to BMWCCA tech writer Mike Miller who recommended bilstein��. I installed b6 on all 4 corners as well as powerflex subframe bushings (a great DIY story for later time). I love the results. Sports car ride and response. I’m admittedly probably not nuanced on the transients of handling as the track junkies, but like potter Stewart on pornography-I know it when I see it. Less squat and dive and compliant ride. I’m satisfied. (and I have a Porsche Cayman as well for a comparator).

I think it depends on the roads where you live. I also have the bilstein HDs and they are fine on smooth roads, but in SC there are a lot of not smooth roads and sometimes the ride is downright bone jarring.

[Z-Thrizzle]

I had bilstein with H&R springs when I lived in NY and it was a harsh ride. Later went with Tckline single adjustable and the ride quality was so much better for daily driving in the city. Regular Konis will probably provide a comfortable ride as well.

I'm upgrading to the TcKline double adjustable this weekend. If anybody is interested in the single adjustable shocks let me know. They're working fine with the rears having around 12k miles and fronts 80k miles.

[PbFut]

Having reviewed the later posts, I think the idea of just using the basic Koni's and OEM springs will likely result is a good choice for the OP. Grip will likely be equal maybe a little better. SO, no real down side and probably the least cost. I also think the idea of swapping the rear subframe bushing is a fine one. The OEM bushing has got to be getting soft and will produce some funky double sets on sweeping corners that you will not realize is there till its corrected. Think I95 at speed and you are on a long wide curve. You turn in, then have to correct about a second later then can hold the set the rest of the way through the corner. New bushings will take the need to correct away. Then you will say why did I not fix that years ago. Also, replacing those bushings helps with the dreaded rear pan problem that many experience and that can get expensive to correct. We are getting a bit off track, and certainly the bushings can be done later, but it's a good point to bring up given ride and handling are part of any suspension change discussion.

[19Spec3]

+1 for the Koni inserts and stock springs. Plenty comfortable even on DC's crappy roads. Consider replacing the front shock mounts (just stock replacement Lemforder) while you're in there. They're a rubber wear item.

I upgraded to the Koni yellows all around on stock springs and then eventually replaced the stock springs with H&R lowering springs. Though I really like the look of the lowering springs, they are somewhat harsher than the Koni's with stock springs. I go back and forth in my head about which I prefer. I just don't feel like swapping springs again so the H&R lowering springs have remained in place.

[PbFut]

FYI I just received a email from Turner, they are running a 20% off sale on Koni through June.

[PiperMroadster]

thank you for this info! this is some great stuff

[JWin]

As a savvy layman, the TCK D/A kit is the only option. The adjustable height is huge - a full tank of gas results in a quarter inch drop much less a different exhaust/battery/whatever. But, also, the street set up is so much more compliant than stock but I can really get after it in a way I never thought possible. All for less than 3 grand. If you just blew $20k on a car, $3k to make it work properly is nothing.

[JeffPortland]

...TC Kline will provide the best ride for your needs. They have basic non adjustable and medium level performance adjustable stuff.

Ok. I've read this a couple times (I think Randy Forbes posted something similar in like 2013). If this is true I want this product but when I go to TC Kline's web site I see that they sell Koni Sport adjustable inserts, same part numbers as everyone else. They have a externally adjustable rears which appear to be the Koni product sold for 90's mustangs when I google the part number.

Do they sell non-coilover inserts that are custom valved like the TC Kline specific products? If they do it's not on the site. Also I don't see any basic non-adjustable inserts. Or were you referring to the height adjustment when you said non adjustable?


Edit: Please don't read my tone as hostile. I meant this to be an inquisitive and productive tone! I honestly want the product you described but can't find it! -Jeff

[PbFut]

On the rear Mustang shock. I believe this is correct. TC was using a custom valved rear shock version at first. The problem was, it was too long and would bottom out the shock before the bump stops did their job resulting in blown/damaged shocks. It happened to me and the set I received in replacement was the Mustang shock with no noticeable difference. I do not think they re-valve the unit. You can probably find them cheaper and piece a set together. With everyone having so much time on their hands, likely will happen. TC's kits are not rocket science. He did the work of finding the right combination of parts. Provides very good support, and is one of the few that raced the z3 back in the day. I've said this before, you can do the trial and error method of finding the right combination of parts, or you can pay a little more and purchase a kit.
I am doing this right now on FrankenCoupe. Converting the throttle by wire to a cable and different computer in preparation for an eventual 8 stack intake. There are kits that cost as much as the engine or I can make my own for about 40% of the cost. Not because it makes more power, it just looks so damn cool and I've always wanted one. They do respond faster than a single TB.

[IndianaRoadster]

I have TC's double adjustable set at 35% and find the ride very acceptable. The handling, phenomenal!

[BimmerBreaker]

Im thinking of building one of my coupes to be a "GT" car - add a little sound deadening and gear it for the highway. I think ill go TCK based on what everyone says. EVERYONE says its worth the $$$...