2003 525i

[gnarLeyZarLey]

Hello!
I am a new owner, and have a couple questions. I did some googling- but I think I’d like to hear from the pros.

First, I accidentally put in like almost $20 of cheap gas. I realized and finished filling it with premium. It seems to not be running as smooth and the engine light came on. What do I do for that?

Second. My sunroof won’t shut all the way. I’ve done the rest I watched on YouTube, it’s helped, but it won’t close all the way. I sat there for well over a minute. Normally in LA we don’t get much rain, but of course we are right now and it’s a bit of an issue.

Third. I’ve had it for about three weeks now. I took it to a foreign mechanic to let me know what needs to be fixed. He said my coolant holder thing has a small leak. So every morning I check it before I drive. And also, this one tube needs to be replaced. He said for labor and everything it would be $700. He said since the location of the coolant tank he has to remove big parts and it’ll take many hours. Is this true? Seems kind of crazy.
I don’t have a photo of the tube, but I can post one tomorrow.

So, as far as major things, that’s it.
Do you think it’ll be worth it to upgrade things and give it TLC or should I try and get a newer one?

Thanks for your time guys!


-Jessica

[seagreen323i]

The first issue is called pre detonation basically the fuel is not combusting when it needs to. That can really hurt an engine and its important to pay attention to what fuel you put in it. The computer will pull ignition timing to save the engine at the cost of fuel economy, smoothness, and power. I would reccomend adding octane booster for the time being to eliminate the chance of damage.

The sunroof could be many things, I would start out by checking for any blockage on the rails (sticks, mud, grime, leaves ect.) The sunroof cassette itself could of gone bad and is very expensive to replace if you are paying somebody. There is a manual override underneath the panel with the sunroof switch and you should be able to close it from there.

The tank you are talking about is the coolant expansion tank and it needs to be replaced ASAP. It will explode and leave you stranded. Not a question of if but when, and it will be soon if it is cracked. I learned my lesson the hard way so you don't have too. 700$ is ludicrous the job is super simple.

Here is a diy if you want to get a better understanding of it.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...nk_Removal.htm

[effduration]

The E39 525i will run and drive great if you take care of it - preemptively - but it will never be as cheap to run or as forgiving as a honda, toyota, mazda, Kia, etc. If you wait for things to break on the 525i, you are in for a very unpleasant experience. I daily drive an '03 530i with 400k miles on it.

This is expensive. I estimate it takes $1500 /year to keep a '99-03 525i, 528i, 530i on the road and reliable. Some years less, some a little more, particularly if you pay someone to do the work for you. Forget what you paid for the car, it's meaningless.

Unless you are going to dive in to DIY'ng. You need to make friends with an independent (non-dealer) BMW Specialist. You can find one in your area on BIMRS.org. Also check Yelp and other on-line reviews understanding that no mechanic gets only positive reviews.

If you want to try to do some of the work, or just become more familiar with your car's issues, these forums (this and bimmerfest) are great resources. Everything you are going to experience has been experienced by someone else.

As for your specific issues. using cheap gas for 1/2 a tank should not have caused your check engine light (SES). You may not have tightened the gas cap all the way, but you likely have other issues. That light will likely go on a lot. if you keep this car and want to save a ton of $ you should buy a scanner (preferably from Creator or Foxwell) or an OBD2 wifi reader and use it with an app like OBDFusion and learn to read your own codes. You can also bring it to Autozone to read your codes for free. Then search the codes you get on-line for answers.. This is only a brief overview of scanners, so you need to do some research.

Mechanic replacing a tube for $700? If its a plastic heater pipe, which runs under your intake manifold,....maybe..but post your picture...I would try a new BMW specialist and find one that you trust...Unfortunately cooling systems in these cars are one very major weak point. There is a lot of plastic in the cooling systems which deteriorates after 10 yrs or so. You have to replace cooling system parts BEFORE they break or they will strand you and, worse, ruin your all aluminum engine with an overheat.

[ross1]

The first issue is called pre detonation basically the fuel is not combusting when it needs to. That can really hurt an engine and its important to pay attention to what fuel you put in it. The computer will pull ignition timing to save the engine at the cost of fuel economy, smoothness, and power. I would reccomend adding octane booster for the time being to eliminate the chance of damage.

The sunroof could be many things, I would start out by checking for any blockage on the rails (sticks, mud, grime, leaves ect.) The sunroof cassette itself could of gone bad and is very expensive to replace if you are paying somebody. There is a manual override underneath the panel with the sunroof switch and you should be able to close it from there.

The tank you are talking about is the coolant expansion tank and it needs to be replaced ASAP. It will explode and leave you stranded. Not a question of if but when, and it will be soon if it is cracked. I learned my lesson the hard way so you don't have too. 700$ is ludicrous the job is super simple.

Here is a diy if you want to get a better understanding of it.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...nk_Removal.htm

WHAT?
There is nothing in the OPs post to indicate "detonation" which you clearly don't understand.
This is just purchased car with obvious issues, I'd bet the farm the CEL has nothing to do with the fuel. Don't send this guy on a wild goose chase.
OP, while premium fuel is recommended and usually has a better additive package regular fuel works just fine.
The coolant tank is not a big deal nor likely a pending explosion. A bit of a fiddly job as the hoses are something of a PITA but a DIY job that should take a first timer a couple hours.

[effduration]

OP - If you like, we can put together a list of things you should look at to get this newly-acquired car of yours up to snuff..Very likely some things should be done immediately, some can be done later.

With a list like this, you will immediately convey the impression that you have done your research to any independent specialist you speak with.

Things like:
Cooling system
CCV (Crankcase Vent system)
Valve Cover gasket
Oil Filter housing gasket
Heater pipes,
etc.
etc.

[djb2]

The M54B25 with factory tuning will run fine on 87 AKI California-spec gasoline (CaRFG2). It should not pull timing in most conditions, and thus not have an impact on power or fuel efficiency.

Other BMW engines are more demanding.

Remember, your BMW engine is going to die from cooling system failure, not using the 'wrong' brand of oil or the wrong octane gas.

[edjack]

The OP is a woman: Jessica. Not likely she's up for turning a wrench.

Jessica, I urge you to find a good BMW mechanic, and soon, to minister to the car. These are not cheap cars to maintain, especially when they get old and needy. You don't want the guy at the corner gas station wrenching on it, either.

BTW, many of the posters here are fairly good amateur mechanics, and they can keep an oldster like this running.

You may wish to cut your losses, and get rid of it.

[E39 Newbie]

Hello!
I am a new owner, and have a couple questions. I did some googling- but I think I’d like to hear from the pros.

First, I accidentally put in like almost $20 of cheap gas. I realized and finished filling it with premium. It seems to not be running as smooth and the engine light came on. What do I do for that?

Second. My sunroof won’t shut all the way. I’ve done the rest I watched on YouTube, it’s helped, but it won’t close all the way. I sat there for well over a minute. Normally in LA we don’t get much rain, but of course we are right now and it’s a bit of an issue.

Third. I’ve had it for about three weeks now. I took it to a foreign mechanic to let me know what needs to be fixed. He said my coolant holder thing has a small leak. So every morning I check it before I drive. And also, this one tube needs to be replaced. He said for labor and everything it would be $700. He said since the location of the coolant tank he has to remove big parts and it’ll take many hours. Is this true? Seems kind of crazy.
I don’t have a photo of the tube, but I can post one tomorrow.

So, as far as major things, that’s it.
Do you think it’ll be worth it to upgrade things and give it TLC or should I try and get a newer one?

Thanks for your time guys!


-Jessica

Welcome! I was in your place a couple years back. I'm no stranger to working on cars, but this was my first BMW. As others have indicated, the more DIY you can do on these cars, the better off you'll be. They'll eat you out of house and home otherwise. And, again as previously indicated, find a trustworthy BMW mechanic. I see you're in LA. If you're anywhere near me I can recommend a good, honest one.

Regular fuel won't cause rough running and CEL lights. The computer is smart enough to pull out timing if it senses detonation (assuming the sensors are working). Rough running and CEL is quite often misfires, caused by a bad spark plug or bad coil. Very common issues.

The sunroof is a royal PITA to work on, and, due to the amount of labor involved, very expensive to have repaired. As indicated, check the tracks for obstructions. Get some sunroof lube (basically, silicone-based grease) and lube the tracks. The sunroof "shoes" that run in the tracks, are plastic and become brittle (and break) after several years. You can pull the cover off of the overhead "console" thing where the lights are, and you'll see a hex drive thing. You can put an allen wrench there and turn it GENTLY to close the roof. DO NOT FORCE IT. At that point you can try running the sunroof reset procedure. Google it. Essentially you'll push in the button and hold it for a good 30 or 40 seconds until it goes into reset mode where it automatically learns the sunroof's position.

The cooling systems on these cars is essentially garbage. They are mostly plastic and tend to get old an brittle until they fail catastrophically. Since they require more or less scheduled replacement, BMW had the foresight to put the pipes in the most inaccesible locations possible. The upshot is that if you just bought the car, and have no maintenance history on it, you'll want to replace the cooling system proactively. Especially the coolant pipes, all hoses, expansion tank, water pump, and radiator. Please post a pic of the pipe you're referring to. A replacement of the expansion tank alone won't be anywhere near $700.

If you LIKE to work on cars, and/or if you are not on a strict budget, then I think you'll like the car. I really enjoy driving my '02 525i. It's worth the effort to keep them on the road.

[JimLev]

Welcome to the forum Jessica.
For a start take your car to one of the chain auto stores, most will read the codes for free. Then post the Pxxxx code.
That will be a start to figuring out why the CEL is on.
If your not going to wrench on your car take it to another shop for an estimate as others have suggested.

[seagreen323i]

WHAT?
There is nothing in the OPs post to indicate "detonation" which you clearly don't understand.
This is just purchased car with obvious issues, I'd bet the farm the CEL has nothing to do with the fuel. Don't send this guy on a wild goose chase.
OP, while premium fuel is recommended and usually has a better additive package regular fuel works just fine.
The coolant tank is not a big deal nor likely a pending explosion. A bit of a fiddly job as the hoses are something of a PITA but a DIY job that should take a first timer a couple hours.

I just made the assumption, trust me I have the broken ring lands to prove I know what detonation is, when the octane rating cant resist the cylinder pressure it ignites before the spark plug does. Pinging is just when there are two flame fronts in the engine (one from spark plug and one from pre detonation) it rapidly increases cylinder pressure and will break stuff. IIRC the m54 requires 89 as a minimum emergency fuel. "Cheap gas" to me signifies 87, something the m52tu would run on with reduced performance.

Edit: came off as an a** sorry about that. Don't want to start an argument. Like the above posts definatly get the codes pulled. I would suspect without codes its either plugs/coils, possibly a vacuum leak or maybe even a mass airflow sensor.

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[Mike WW]

Unless it literally had water in it, it's unlikely the gas is the problem. I've run regular in my 02 525i touring with no issues other than an occasional sulfur odor climbing into the mountains under heavy load.

However the cooling system is critical and touchy. A cracked tank suggests other deferred maintenance, some of which can be very expensive, especially labor. There are many plastic parts in which can need replacement in as little as 100K miles. The engine will last almost forever, but can also be severely damaged if overheated for as little as a minute or two. Without knowing exactly what the mechanic wants to replace, it's hard to say if you're being gouged or not.

[taz.]

Like the guys above, 700$ is outrageous.
There's so much info on these engines regardless if it's on the e39's. All of the models from 90's to mid 00's use those engines. Just get a second opinion from a qualified mechanic in European cars, get some code read out, more info. Bmw are simple to work on. Software is everywhere for them, likewise on info. Or you take on with the Diy's.

I don't know how the road are I the Us but 1500$ for the maintenance of am e39 is more outrageous tham your 700$ "hillbilly mechanic".
Mine has no leaks, squeaks, or pb. I even put the soft side of velcro on the hinges for softer closing and sound deadening in the door. So NO SQUEAKS ALLOWED. It's my project car and my daily, never saw a mechanic. All me. Maybe that's why. If I had too pit 1000€ in it a year just to run it I'd go to Munich and burn the headquarters down.

That's how an engine bay should look... No leaks. Anywhere. At just 350k on the clock.

So no , 1500$ on year is BS.
20190727_202343.jpg

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[djb2]

I just made the assumption, trust me I have the broken ring lands to prove I know what detonation is, when the octane rating cant resist the cylinder pressure it ignites before the spark plug does. Pinging is just when there are two flame fronts in the engine (one from spark plug and one from pre detonation) it rapidly increases cylinder pressure and will break stuff. IIRC the m54 requires 89 as a minimum emergency fuel. "Cheap gas" to me signifies 87, something the m52tu would run on with reduced performance.

Did you break rings on a stock M54 with stock tuning? That would be very unusual.

BMW specifies a minimum of 87 AKI, which is approximately 91 RON.
BMW *recommends* premium fuel, but does not require it.

[E39 Newbie]

OP seems to have vanished...

[seagreen323i]

Did you break rings on a stock M54 with stock tuning? That would be very unusual.

BMW specifies a minimum of 87 AKI, which is approximately 91 RON.
BMW *recommends* premium fuel, but does not require it.

Nope not a stock tune and not a bmw. I have another life ya know

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[gnarLeyZarLey]

Ok!
So I started off the next morning with throwing in the octane booster and it started running super smooth.

I took it in to another mechanic in my hometown while I’m quarantining, lol.

I cannot post a photo- but here is a run down of the estimate.

Parts:
Expansion tank 76.61
Radiator Hose-Upper with ends 60.26
Water pipe plastic 92.30
Intake man. Gasket set 42.87

Parts/supplies: 273.04 Labor 425.00


Here are the notes:
Removed and replaced the expansion tank due to a crack in the plastic, causing coolant to leak.
Replaced a water pipe located under the radiator that had coolant leaking.
Replaced an upper radiator hose that was leaking coolant.
Removed and replaced the intake manifold gaskets that were found leaking coolant.
Expansion tank is filled with new coolant and after repairs completed, vehicle is road tested for proper operation.

Diagnosis: 65.00
Hazmat: 6.99
Tax: 25.94

Total: 730.97

So I think I’m going to learn how to wrench!
Or realistically- I might consider selling it to someone who knows what they are doing or use it as a trade in?

Also, not included on this paper was the CEL. She said there was like 15 codes that popped up, but I don’t know what they are.

[gnarLeyZarLey]

Hello!
I posted but I don’t see it. So I’ll redo it.

I put in some octane booster and it ran smooth right away.

I took it in to a auto shop in my hometown while I’m quarantining for a couple weeks.

Labor Description:
Cooling system: $360.00
Removed and replaced the expansion tank due to a crack in the plastic, causing coolant to leak.

Replaced a water pipe located under the radiator that had coolant leaking.
Replaced an upper radiator hose that was leaking coolant.
Removed and replaced the intake manifold gaskets that were found leaking coolant.
Expansion tank is filled with new coolant and after repairs are completed, vehicle is road tested for proper operation.

Diagnosis: 65.00

Hazmat: 6.99

Expansion tank: 76.61
Radiator Hose-Upper with ends: 60.26
Water Pipe Plastic: 92.30
Intake Man. Gasket Set: 43.87

Parts/ supplies: 273.04 labor: 425.00
Hazmat 6.99 tax 25.94
Total: $730.97



Now I feel like I can learn to wrench while I have all this time.
Or
I should sell it to someone who knows how to work on it and use the money as a down payment.

[gnarLeyZarLey]

Error coded read
p0174
p0300
p1342
p1349
p1352
p1351
p1083
p1085
p0171
p0300

[seagreen323i]

Oh boy


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[gnarLeyZarLey]

Yes. I just got back from autozone and ordered the parts. I’m going to give it a whirl.

[seagreen323i]

Those are all misfire and lean codes, I'm willing to bet your intake boot is cracked. Let me go snap some pictures, tell me if there is any damage in the areas I picture on your car.

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[seagreen323i]

1st pic is the ccv system, that hose could cause a vacuum leak but not that major I don't think. 2nd pic is the intake boot follow it down into the engine and that brings us to the 3rd pic. That 90ish degree elbow loves to disintegrate and that would be a nice sized leak. Check for cracks and such.
Also pictured In the 2nd picture is the disa valve. (Cant spell disappoint without disa) That weird looking brick above the intake boot is my arch nemesis. That's why I got an engine without one :P. That thing loves to leak so remove the 2 torx fasteners after you undo the electrical connection and give it a good inspection. Just google "m54 disa valve" and LOADS of fourms will come up.


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[gnarLeyZarLey]

The first hose is the one that is broken. It’s the top part that latches- it’s cracked.

[seagreen323i]

That to me explains the misfire on startup codes. Basically what's happening is when you start the car there is a little valve that's open until the engine accumulates enough vacuum to close it. So you are running super lean on startup because that air is getting pulled into the engine without the computer knowing it. Hence it cannot add fuel effectively. You could theoretically just replace that hose but its typically reccomend to replace the entire ccv system if one component has failed. It's a bit of a job but I'll link a diy so maybe you can get a better understanding.

DIY Link:
https://blog.bavauto.com/5434/bmw-m5...30i-525i-530i/

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[effduration]

I am not a fan of the mechanic you got an estimate from.

These cars are expensive, as I noted above, but there is no way coolant leaks through the intake manifold on a 6 cyl engine.
IF he wants to take off the manifold he should replace two coolant pipes (Plastic) under the manifold..

you should try another mechanic...and one that focuses on BMWs...not just foreign cars.

When he said " replace water pipe under radiator because it leaked" it would have made more sense if he said " replace water pipe under intake because it leaked" but I don't like guessing what the mechanic meant.