1999 E36 M3 LS1 and T56 swap - hpde / time trial

[bmwvsevo]

So far I got the following advice:
1. Clean it up and put it back together
2. Change rings and bearings for sure at this point...along with the inspection
3. Assuming that leave it as is. "Leave the carbon alone. More carbon = higher compression". my rookie brain doesnt even know if you are serious or not

Anyone else? If I heard 18 out of 20 people say leave it alone that would be a good path to take. We are not there yet unfortunately.

[bmwvsevo]

Not a lot of progress due to me not having 12pt socket to unbolt ARP rod bolt to inspect the red bearing. Had to order on Amazon.

What caught me by surprise was the F-Body oil pan gasket being riveted to the pan. I drilled the rivets out. Preparing the pan for Improved Racing baffle installation. Ive read some mixed reviews on this part. Some undesirable results came from LS2. LS3 users I believe. Hoping that my LS1 will benefit from it on road course. I will have an oil pressure gauge for extra insurance. And will do some research on the warning light gauge options.

I have also removed 1 lifter tray with lifters.

Few questions:
1. What is the overall opinion on this - do I replace lifters and/or trays?
2. Is that normal to have all the imperfections on the inside of the Oil Pan - bumps/caking looking surface

[bimerok]

I was the one with undesirable results from improved racing oil pan baffle. Had to drop pan remove it to improve my oil starvation issue on road course that it was supposed to “improve”. Luckily they were kind enough to take it back and refund me.

As for inside of oil pan, they are rough castings and don’t look very nice from inside. Out of the ones I’ve seen yours look a bit on a rough side, but if there are no loose pieces, I wouldn’t worry much.

Also, on the subject of oil pan, you might want to take out that long plastic oil level sensor as most likely you will not be able to reuse. It might be very difficult/impossible to do once on the car with headers. They sell blockout bolts that go instead of sensor and I think summit sells bolt with tapped hole inside it. I used it to re-thread for BMW oil temp sensor which I connected to euro m3 cluster. They have oil temp instead of mpg-meter.

[Matt330LS]

I'd spend some time over on LS1tech.com, there's a ton of great information about our engines over there. My thoughts so far:

-If the engine was built by Lingenfelter you've got a great base to start.
-You don't have Mahle pistons, you have Manley pistons. Pretty good stuff.
-Jesel rockers are top notch. Since you've got good pistons and ARP rod bolts I'd verify whether you've got aftermarket rods or not.
-I'd skip the LS6 PCV tube that goes from valley cover to intake manifold and fit an oil catch can in between the two, especially for road course work. I ended up going with the Radium Engineering LS setup, but there are a few other options out there that rate pretty well.

I'm probably missing something. But keep the thread updated as you can, I like feeding off other ideas when possible.

EDIT: I missed something. YES, absolutely replace the lifter trays. Lifters maybe/maybe not but they're not expensive and it's a "while you're in there." Also, I went back and forth on the pushrods when I built my engine. I bought the measuring tool and ended up just a shade longer than 7.400. I bought a custom length set from Manton, and got the 11/32 diameter with thicker walls for more stable valve train during track days.

[motorV8ed]

I, too, was surprised at the roughness of the internal oil pan casting. But that seems to be what is normal!

[bmwvsevo]

Yes, I did refer to you as being the one with IR baffle issue I have been reading a lot on this in LS1tech forum and seems like overall results are good. But who knows, I guess I will have to validate myself.
Got it on the oil pan imperfections. There is no damage to the pan so it should be good.
Thank you for the tip on the oil level sensor. Ive searched and saw the plug with w/ 1/8 NPT Port that I might get.

I was the one with undesirable results from improved racing oil pan baffle. Had to drop pan remove it to improve my oil starvation issue on road course that it was supposed to “improve”. Luckily they were kind enough to take it back and refund me.

As for inside of oil pan, they are rough castings and don’t look very nice from inside. Out of the ones I’ve seen yours look a bit on a rough side, but if there are no loose pieces, I wouldn’t worry much.

Also, on the subject of oil pan, you might want to take out that long plastic oil level sensor as most likely you will not be able to reuse. It might be very difficult/impossible to do once on the car with headers. They sell blockout bolts that go instead of sensor and I think summit sells bolt with tapped hole inside it. I used it to re-thread for BMW oil temp sensor which I connected to euro m3 cluster. They have oil temp instead of mpg-meter.

[bmwvsevo]

I have been spending time on LS1tech.com including posting this progress thread over there. Not much feedback on it yet from LS crowd. Maybe BMW mention drives some away.....
Good catch on "Manley" pistons, Ill edit the original post.
As far as the rods go, where are the usual markings to identify the brand/part number? Visually I dont see anything on them besides the builder hand written build date.
Thanks for the tip on the oil catch can, i'll do some research on it.

As far as the lifters go - Summit has this "Summit Racing® LS Lifter and Guide Kits SUM-HTLSKIT1" https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-htlskit1. Anything against this? I am leaning towards GM original but this seems interesting. Will replace the lifter trays, that makes sense.

On pushrods, id probably stick with current 7.400. Will verify the measurements.

Thank you for the feedback, much appreciated

Edit: This catch can seems ok - https://mikenorrismotorsports.mysimp...-oil-catch-can

I'd spend some time over on LS1tech.com, there's a ton of great information about our engines over there. My thoughts so far:

-If the engine was built by Lingenfelter you've got a great base to start.
-You don't have Mahle pistons, you have Manley pistons. Pretty good stuff.
-Jesel rockers are top notch. Since you've got good pistons and ARP rod bolts I'd verify whether you've got aftermarket rods or not.
-I'd skip the LS6 PCV tube that goes from valley cover to intake manifold and fit an oil catch can in between the two, especially for road course work. I ended up going with the Radium Engineering LS setup, but there are a few other options out there that rate pretty well.

I'm probably missing something. But keep the thread updated as you can, I like feeding off other ideas when possible.

EDIT: I missed something. YES, absolutely replace the lifter trays. Lifters maybe/maybe not but they're not expensive and it's a "while you're in there." Also, I went back and forth on the pushrods when I built my engine. I bought the measuring tool and ended up just a shade longer than 7.400. I bought a custom length set from Manton, and got the 11/32 diameter with thicker walls for more stable valve train during track days.

[Bsaint]

I'd always replace the lifters when inside the engine, it's cheap insurance.

And I'd go with GM OEM LS7 Lifters we use them on 1,000+ whp builds at work no problem.

Also the Norris catch can is good I also run one.

Another question are you going to be running an Oil cooler?

[bmwvsevo]

I was leaning towards replacing all lifters now based on the feedback. Is there a better source to buy all GM LS7 in a kit from than Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/GM-Parts-1249.../dp/B000QIUGNM? I cant seem to locate one that is not "out of stock".

As far as Oil Cooler setup - I have followed multiple threads including your own setup.
Few questions for you:
- Adapter - how is your adapter holding up? This is the one I believe, correct?
- Oil Cooler - I was going to go with ~40-42 row cooler based on the info many provide. What are your thoughts on THIS Improved Racing Setrab 40 row oil cooler? I do have to make sure im covered on track since thats the main use for the car.
---- Oil Cooler specs: 9.25" wide core (235mm), 40 rows or 12" (304.8mm) core height

Thanks

I'd always replace the lifters when inside the engine, it's cheap insurance.

And I'd go with GM OEM LS7 Lifters we use them on 1,000+ whp builds at work no problem.

Also the Norris catch can is good I also run one.

Another question are you going to be running an Oil cooler?

[Bsaint]

Try your local GM dealer if not try Keystone, Scoggin Dickey https://sdparts.com/ or https://briantooleyracing.com/

The last we ordered was from Keystone they hadn't updated their pricing and we bought a BUNCH for $170.

and yes that's what I used, I later switched it up to a sandwich plate to route the oil lines differently and I fitted a oil pressure sensor to it as well. No issues with it really I just didn't like the way the lines were.

[bmwvsevo]

Hi All,

Someone on LS1tech.com had mentioned the use of a crank scraper. Does anyone have any experience with this Improved Racing Crank Scraper and Windage Tray kit? Is it worth it/required? I am using IR oil pan baffle.

[bmwvsevo]

I have received my 12pt socket set so I was able to remove the connecting rod bolts and check the bearings. This is the first time I am looking at the crank and bearings in any engine.
How do you think they look?

[Bsaint]

Curious as to how many miles were put on this since the original build, they look "okay" depending on mileage.

Obviously they have some marks on them for sure.

[bmwvsevo]

I was told 30K miles. And I think picture angles and lighting exaggerates the marks a bit.
In addition, someone on LS1tech.com had mentioned that my rods have dowels therefore they seem to be aftermarket. I was looking for a way to determine if that was the case.

Curious as to how many miles were put on this since the original build, they look "okay" depending on mileage.

Obviously they have some marks on them for sure.

[Tim Mc]

No Chevy production engine came with H-beam rods - they are definitely aftermarket.

Can you catch a finger nail on the crank scratches? If not, new bearings ought to be a ok.

The crank appears to be a cast item with narrow parting line - standard LS - likely production.

[Bsaint]

OP, If in fact it has 30k on the build I think they look fine, but once again I'm not your engine builder/tuner so I would get the opinion of both.

[RulyLSX]

great progress on the build so far! I took my car out to my first hpde event last month and had a blast, looking forward to see how this one comes along

[bmwvsevo]

Thank you. Ive learned quite a bit from your build as well. Looks like yours is a blast.

great progress on the build so far! I took my car out to my first hpde event last month and had a blast, looking forward to see how this one comes along

[bmwvsevo]

Guys, question on my ARP connecting rod bolts. I have removed 4 of them to check the bearings. Can I safely reuse the same ARP 8740 bolts? I believe torqued to 45lbs (have to confirm). I do not have any bolt measurements prior to the first install and I believe they were installed only once.
I have emailed ARP and they said that they have to be replaced vs most opinions state that its ok to reuse. Since I only removed 4 it would be nice to reuse of course but if its crucial to replace then I will have to.

Any advice?

[mrallande5020]

I would just reuse them, I don't think they are torque to yield so they should be good to go a second time.

[Tim Mc]

Yeah his original post said it had speed pro bearings in it

I was reference the connecting rod - it is an 'H' beam...all Chevy production engines were 'I' beam. It is aftermarket piece.

Lifter trays: some aftermarket from China are defective. I buy many of my parts, even OEM from Summit - just locate the OEM part number. The trays keep the lifter positioned correctly, bad ones are loose and allow the lifter to turn sideways.

ARP: Unless ARP gives a reason why, I'd certainly reuse. Maybe finding the torque values might be an issue. Use the proper lube as well.

I'd do the lifters too...again Summit has them (OEM LS7 parts).

Should be a fun build!

[bmwvsevo]

I would just reuse them, I don't think they are torque to yield so they should be good to go a second time.

I was reference the connecting rod - it is an 'H' beam...all Chevy production engines were 'I' beam. It is aftermarket piece.

Lifter trays: some aftermarket from China are defective. I buy many of my parts, even OEM from Summit - just locate the OEM part number. The trays keep the lifter positioned correctly, bad ones are loose and allow the lifter to turn sideways.

ARP: Unless ARP gives a reason why, I'd certainly reuse. Maybe finding the torque values might be an issue. Use the proper lube as well.

I'd do the lifters too...again Summit has them (OEM LS7 parts).

Should be a fun build!

I believe rod bolts are around $100 so I will just buy a new set to be safe. Sounds like diagnosing the current bolt torque situation is more complex.
I will also purchase a new set of LS7 lifters and trays. 2 options for this:
Summit - LS7 lifters only - $260
EBay - LS7 lifters and trays - $189 - direct from GM - AC Delco

Any reason to believe the ebay ones are not authentic?

[bmwvsevo]

Did some more minor work on Sunday.
Drilled out the oem oil pan gasket and installed Improved racing baffle.


Question on Oil Pumps. I have the oil pump that was installed - Lingenfelter LS1 modified GM Oil pump deburred to improve flow. But I have also ordered - Melling Performance Oil Pumps 10296 - from Summit. Can Lingenfelter pump be better in any way? Or swap to Melling without questions?



- - - Updated - - -

No Chevy production engine came with H-beam rods - they are definitely aftermarket.

Can you catch a finger nail on the crank scratches? If not, new bearings ought to be a ok.

The crank appears to be a cast item with narrow parting line - standard LS - likely production.

Can not catch a nail on the crack markings at all btw

[bmwvsevo]

I have received the following response from Improved Racing about the type of crank scraper model needed. Related to the type of rods that I have.

• If they are factory rods: EGM-330F
• Most aftermarket H-beam rods: EGM-331F
• Some aftermarket H-beam rods that are beefier: EGM-332F

​​​​​​​I think the consensus is that my rods are not factory. But can they be "beefier" rod that they mention?
Seems to me like EGM-331F should fit if I have a common H-beam rod setup

Any thoughts? Thanks

[Tim Mc]

I've never messed with a crank scraper except for buying an oil pan with it included/attached. I think you will find very low return on the install - it will be a benefit, but IMO not worth the effort. I recall reading it needs to be 'very' close the rotating assembly to be worth it - like using a dremel and fitting it to each rod/crank throw. Looking at IR website they only quote 2-4 hp...that seems statistically difficult to prove. Nonetheless...

Crank: sounds like a simple polish is all that is required, if that. You can pop out the existing bearings and find what part number/thickness - replace with the same.

Oil pump: I'd go with new - similar reasoning with the lifters. Admittedly, we patterned our build after an OEM Corvette engine - suitable for reasonable tracking at slightly above OEM horsepower levels.

Ebay: I'm not a fan - you get what you pay for. One can invest a ton of money into the engine...when the engine swap is already a fairly big investment of time and complication. Reason we generally sided on OEM parts, at least on the initial go around.