Reviving a dead E61

[pbonsalb]

Old S600 or new? The old 5.5L are a lot of bang for the buck these days. I remember reading Mazlumian’s modding articles 8-9 years ago.

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how...des-benz-s600/

[interalian]

Tip for checking rod bearing knock: Foxwell NT510 lets you disable individual fuel injectors. Do it one at a time and the knocking bearing will reveal itself by going quiet.

[tantumaude]

Tip for checking rod bearing knock: Foxwell NT510 lets you disable individual fuel injectors. Do it one at a time and the knocking bearing will reveal itself by going quiet.

Hmm, that's good to know. The engine is good for parts now anyways, but I'll keep it in mind if ever I have to deal with this again. I imagine INPA can do the same?

Old S600 or new? The old 5.5L are a lot of bang for the buck these days. I remember reading Mazlumian’s modding articles 8-9 years ago.

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how...des-benz-s600/

Yes, that's what I have, I got mine in Japan and it also has a few cosmetic mods and a BBK. I'll have to look into the diff, the car definitely suffers from too much torque-itis, even with 275s in the rear as well.

[tantumaude]

Started work on the replacement engine (have to replace harness, turbos, hoses and oil pan).

20200411_121835.jpg

I'm still debating what to do about the transmission. I think the easiest and cheapest thing would be to keep the trans and transfer case in place, and just pull the engine (doing the manual swap later). Just getting at the front diff and axles is a pain.

[pbonsalb]

I agree it would be simpler assuming your auto trans is good. If it turns out to not be good, then your trans conversion will be a little harder. I’d probably risk it since you identified the problem that cause the previous owner to give up on the car — rod knock.

[tantumaude]

Took about 25 hours to take the old engine out. A lot of overtightened and/or seized fasteners and terrible contortions. I still can't get the old flex plate off the engine, even with my 350 ft-lb impact wrench. I'll try to rig up a jig so I can use a breaker bar. Turbos are off to the rebuilders tomorrow, and then I have to figure out all the gaskets and bolts I need to order.


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[pbonsalb]

If whatever you are rigging up through the starter hole does not work, take the oil pan off. I agree with a breaker bar. Probably a cheater pipe over it like a floor jack handle. 350lbs is not much for an impact these days. I have a Milwaukee that does 1400 in reverse, I think.

[tantumaude]

It's weird, those bolts should be torqued to 120 max, so the fact I can't break them off really concerns me.

[pbonsalb]

Could be loctited. Have you tried a breaker bar instead of the the impact?

[tantumaude]

Could be loctited. Have you tried a breaker bar instead of the the impact?

Yes, I end up turning the engine over. I've got to find a good way to counterhold it.

[pbonsalb]

What about a big screwdriver through the starter hole into a flex plate hole or does the angle make it slip? Could you use a chain with a bolt and some washers bolted to the flex plate and a bolt hole on the block?

[tantumaude]

Finally got the flex plate off. Took one breaker bar wedged against the floor and one torquing. I actually partially lifted the engine doing it, so I think they were tightened well above 300 lb-ft. Odd.
My turbos and all assorted hardware should arrive by Thursday, so I should be able to start putting things back together soon. Annoyingly, I have to swap the oil pump pickup, so have to get bolts for that too.

[tantumaude]

Forgot to post many updates: Engine is almost fully redone (still waiting for PCV valve and injector o-rings to arrive). Rebuilt turbos look nice!
Once that's done, it goes back in and I try to remember where every part goes.

[pbonsalb]

What did you pay for rebuilt turbos and were the wastegate flapper valves replaced? Turbos are on my preventative maintenance list now that my E61 has nearly 150k and I may move it from my primary home where I have a full shop to a secondary home where I have few tools and spend less time and would not want to do a turbo swap.

[tantumaude]

What did you pay for rebuilt turbos and were the wastegate flapper valves replaced? Turbos are on my preventative maintenance list now that my E61 has nearly 150k and I may move it from my primary home where I have a full shop to a secondary home where I have few tools and spend less time and would not want to do a turbo swap.

1600CAD total, includes entirely new wastegate assemblies. Definitely would hate to do that job with the engine in the car!

[pbonsalb]

I’d do it with the engine in the car on my lift, but not on my back on jack stands at the other house. I can get a pair for $1000 USD.

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Exhaust/...-335i-N54.html

Would need some additional parts for the install but maybe not $500 worth.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...5764928990kt4/

[tantumaude]

That's about what I'd end up paying after exchange, shipping and duty+tax. I made my own gasket kit for about $210USD, and had a hydraulic shop redo the oil lines too. I'm hoping never to have to go back in there.

[tantumaude]

Alright, engine is back in, everything hooked up. First start attempt failed due to a badly seated connector in the e-box, second attempt was a success!

However, the car is in limp mode with a whole bunch of lights on the dash: MIL, DTC, ASC, start-off assist inop, 4x4 malfunction, brake pad service overdue by 69000 kms (really!?), service required, etc.

First things first: the engine. It runs rather poorly, shaking quite a bit.

I have 7 codes currently. P0012 (A camshaft position over-retarded); P052B (same thing); P0300 (multiple misfire); P0304, P0305, P0306 (misfires in cylinders 4-6); P112F (throttle body vs MAP ratio too high--may just need an adaptation reset?) and B2AAA (I think this is just a placeholder code)

I did reuse the VANOS solenoids from the replacement engine, I will try cleaning them first. I find it odd that only 3 cylinders would misfire though. I replaced the MAP sensor and moved the throttle plate a bit while cleaning it, I wonder if that may have thrown things off relative to the P112F.

As always, your thoughts are welcome!

Oh, and I was able to rev enough to free the other rear wheel! Success!

[pbonsalb]

I assume you have cleared codes and reset all adaptions. If not start there. Solenoids, injectors, coils are all common problems.

My wagon had a rear wheel bearing get noisy a few years ago. I changed it. Check your wheels for play if you think that is a possibility. Probably just the parking brake shoes stuck to the rotor hub.

[tantumaude]

Cleared all codes and reset throttle adaptations. Most of those codes are gone, and I'm back to running on 6 cylinders. I have the half CEL though, with the following codes now as per INPA
29F3 (low pressure fuel sensor)
2a7a (exhaust camshaft position control)
3100 (boost inactive)

I recall having 29F3 with the old engine, I find it hard to believe that the sensor would be bad on both fuel lines. I'm going to measure the flow and report back, it may actually be a pump issue.
2a7a I see can be caused by either the vanos solenoids or the vanos check valves.

As for drivetrain, I'm getting VGSG fault 55c3 and DSC faults 5f12 and 5f13. Haven't yet explored those.

Edit--swapped VANOS solenoids and the code followed. New solenoids on order. Now to sort the 29f3

[pbonsalb]

Drivetrain may go away after you drive and reset chassis codes. But at least there are fewer now. My solenoids were replaced under warranty 7-8 years ago probably at around 60k. Since then I have cleaned them once and am now coming up on 150k. How many miles on replacement engine?

Don’t know what to say about low fuel pressure. I changed my sensor at some point. HPFP was changed under warranty about 10 years ago.

[tantumaude]

Drivetrain may go away after you drive and reset chassis codes. But at least there are fewer now. My solenoids were replaced under warranty 7-8 years ago probably at around 60k. Since then I have cleaned them once and am now coming up on 150k. How many miles on replacement engine?

Don’t know what to say about low fuel pressure. I changed my sensor at some point. HPFP was changed under warranty about 10 years ago.

Unknown mileage on replacement engine. The seller said 120k kms, so I figure around 180k.

With INPA, I'm showing good pressure at the rail (5 bar), but the low pressure sensor is flatlining at 6901 (about maximum). I ordered a cheapo $20 sensor, we'll see if that solves it or whether it's another issue.

I did a bit of digging, the 5f12 and 5f13 and related to the brake pad sensors. Idrive (when it works) says they should have been changed 25k kms ago, so maybe the DSC and other systems don't want to use the brakes if they figure they aren't serviceable (pads still have plenty of meat). I've ordered new sensors, for $10 we'll see if that solves that problem.

[pbonsalb]

You could just bypass the pad sensors. They are just a ground loop. Then reset the service.

Have you driven the car? I have had the Christmas tree lights before after working on the car and perhaps having the ignition on with sensors disconnected but after a short drive, I can clear them.

[tantumaude]

You could just bypass the pad sensors. They are just a ground loop. Then reset the service.

Have you driven the car? I have had the Christmas tree lights before after working on the car and perhaps having the ignition on with sensors disconnected but after a short drive, I can clear them.

True enough. I had a similar issue on the E91, it required a new wear sensor. No big deal, I'll see what happens.

I haven't yet been able to drive it. Got the headlights back in last night, all the parts should arrive by Thursday. Hopefully at that point I'll be able to tow it to the inspection station, get a safety certification and then get it registered--and then I can take it for a spin!

[tantumaude]

Went for a quick shakedown run on Tuesday night, as soon as I pulled into my driveway one of the trans cooler connectors blew and I leaked about 4 litres of tranny fluid all over my driveway. Fantastic.

Anyways, fixed that, got the brake sensors in, reset my codes and got the car registered. New fuel pressure sensor fixed the 29f3, and VANOS code appears to be resolved with new solenoids. No more drivetrain codes either!

I'm also very happy to report that the idrive seems to have sorted itself, no more reboot looping.


In the middle of giving it a thorough detail (there was mud everywhere inside and out), and starting to resolve all the other nagging problems. It looks like I need to fix the diversity antenna (bad FM reception and keys only work when close to trunk), A/C isn't working and I've got a nasty rear vibration on the highway. Got some style 269 wheels and tires incoming shortly. Still need to replace angel eye bulbs and polish the headlights too.

I ordered a wiring kit for the trailer hitch (why not?), some roof bars and a cargo liner. It's almost ready for DD duty!