Anyone get transmission grinding from Redline Fluids mix

[TAMUmpower]

After putting in the bimmerworld lightweight flywheel kit and running it a few weeks(still without any chatter from the old Royal purple fluid I had), I decided to swap to the warm climate mix that UUC recommends on their site to reduce gear chatter from a lightweight flywheel. The mix is one bottle of Redline 75W140NS and one bottle of MT-90. I was due for a fluid change anyway.

Immediately after changing the fluid I got a pop of gear grind when going into reverse, 3rd, and once 4th if I shift at any real RPM and at a decent speed. If I go as slow as possible or do a true double clutch for downshifts to spin up the input shaft then it doesnt grind of course. Once the fluid was fully up to temp after like 15min of driving then it seemed to help but do people really live with a trans that grinds for the first 15min of driving when most trips are less than that amount of time?

Anyone else ever get grind like this from Redline fluids? I'm thinking of switching back to Royal Purple and just waiting to see if I get gear rattle from the flywheel before messing with a fluid switch for a problem that has not happened yet.(Apparently the gear chatter takes a few weeks or something to really get noticeable from what I've read.)

Tranny has 120K miles on it for the record.

Update
Switched back to RP Synchromax and the issue was solved.

[pbonsalb]

I think you are using the wrong mix. 75W140 and 90 seems too thick to me. I don’t think you want or need to go thicker that 75W90 and I would probably stick to 75W80 or a mix of that and slightly thicker fluid.

The best thing for a LTW flywheel is to raise the idle speed to 850-900 rpm. This must be done in the tune.

[TAMUmpower]

I think you are using the wrong mix. 75W140 and 90 seems too thick to me. I don’t think you want or need to go thicker that 75W90 and I would probably stick to 75W80 or a mix of that and slightly thicker fluid.

The best thing for a LTW flywheel is to raise the idle speed to 850-900 rpm. This must be done in the tune.

Maybe so. The info I followed is from http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/artic...uce_rattle.htm

[jclausen]

I would refill it with the royal purple what weight is that?

[TAMUmpower]

I would refill it with the royal purple what weight is that?

Its just Synchromesh. Not sure it has a specific weight listed. It had Redline D4 ATF when I bought the car and never had any grinding issues then. But that was at 50k, now it has 125k

[mlytle]

Redline MTL. in all my cars. one with JBR light flywheel. zero issues.

[E30335i]

I think your suppose to use half mtl and half atf. The diff uses the 75w90.


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[Gene V]

Been using Redline MTL with my UUC LTW flywheel for many moons and have had no problems whatsoever...snick, snick...

[pbonsalb]

I have use stock, MTL, MT90, LTW Shockproof, D4ATF, RP Synchromesh, and never had an issue. Half 75W140 seems too thick for the trans though I have run that in the diff before.

You will get rattle with a LTW flywheel. Raising the idle speed was the best way to reduce it that I found. I like LTW flywheels as long as they are not obnoxious. I used an AA one.

Maybe try MT90. It’s a little thicker than the RP, which is more comparable to the MTL or D4ATF in thickness.

[TAMUmpower]

I think I might just carefully drain what I got into a clean container and just run the thick stuff if I'm racing since it seems to be fine after its fully warmed up to thin it out. Otherwise probably just going to go back to synchromax for the street since it worked fine before. I'll deal with the gear chatter later if it actually happens.

[Braymond141]

Not a fluid issue at all. You have a clutch movement problem. Mechanical side (pivot pin, clutch fork, guide tube), hydraulic, or one of those piece of shit “performance” fatboy clutch stops that are a joke.

Did you do a FULL clutch job including all mandatory wear item replacements noted above?

[TAMUmpower]

Not a fluid issue at all. You have a clutch movement problem. Mechanical side (pivot pin, clutch fork, guide tube), hydraulic, or one of those piece of shit “performance” fatboy clutch stops that are a joke.

Did you do a FULL clutch job including all mandatory wear item replacements noted above?

I already drove the car for a week on the old synchromax fluid after I replaced everything and there was no issue so I know its a fluid issue. The grinding started immediately after I swapped in the Redline mix, also as noted above the issue goes away when the fluid heats up and thins out after about 15min of driving.

But to answer your question I just about replaced every item you can replace on a drivetrain over the past month and a half minus the drive shaft and diff.

[Hova]

Had a similar issue. I ran the UUC mix and gears were difficult to shift the first few shifts when cold out.

Currently with Redline D4, and it's been problem free.

I had Royal Purple in the past, and never liked how it felt. I think the fluid is too thin.

[TAMUmpower]

Just swapped new Synchromax in and it fixed the problem immediately. Shifting way smoother and faster. No gear rattle at the moment. All is well again

[Hova]

Just swapped new Synchromax in and it fixed the problem immediately. Shifting way smoother and faster. No gear rattle at the moment. All is well again

Awesome! Thanks for following back up.

[blckstrm]

Just swapped new Synchromax in and it fixed the problem immediately. Shifting way smoother and faster. No gear rattle at the moment. All is well again

I started out with RP, but I've been running MT-90 to help with the rattle, which it did help relative to the Synchromax. I do feel like it makes the synchros slow, but I don't get any grinding, though. And at 247k (as of today), I'm not sure I should be expecting anything more out of my tranny.

But this is good food for thought - I've been thinking about going back to RP to see if I can shift a little more quickly.

[Feffman]

If anyone needs/wants the BMW spec MTF-2, I've got two bottles of Pentosin MTF-2 I no longer require. $40 plus packing/shipping. E-mail Feffman@Yahoo.com or call/text (314) 249-3770.

The Pentosin fluid is no longer made, is MTF-2: http://www.pentosin.net/specsheets/Pentosin_MTF-2.pdf

Feff