2007 x3 transfer case vibration issue

[wodcutr]

I need help determining what to do with a problem I am having on a new to me x3. I bought it knowing that the 4 wheel drive was not functional and may have been off line for a long time because all three warning lights in the cluster were not functional. Brake, 4x4, abs warning lights do not illuminate when first starting the car and also don't function when doing the cluster #2.0 function test. I figured they were on so long they burnt out. How long it takes to burn out an led bulb I have no idea but they don't light up or may have somehow been tampered with.

I can live live with non functional warning lights, but getting the 4x4 back up and running is my top priority as what's the point of an x with rear wheel drive. So my codes stored in the computer were transfer case internal malfunction and worn fluid with no communication for dsc. I pulled the actuator motor and replaced the worn gears inside and did a proper fluid change and reset using my foxwell NT520. The fluid that was removed was dark about the color of Coca-Cola and measured only 500ml, a bit on the low side but not so low that it concerned me considering 700ml is the original spec.

So now the 4x4 is functional as I heard the actuator working properly when doing the reset and can feel the front drivetrain being used when driving. After erasing all the codes in the VTG and dsc modules I am getting no codes returning after driving it. As far as the computers are concerned all is well.

So on to my problem. The x is getting a horrible vibration especially under hard acceleration. From a total standstill flooring the accelerator it launches great until reaching about 40 mph and then the shaking starts. If I let off the gas and cruise at say 60 the vibration goes away but returns if I accelerate again. I also notice that there is a slight vibration when decelerating too at speeds over 40 foot off the gas. I thought this might be a front driveline u joint issue but upon further inspection the driveline looks fine with no play in the joints. I didn't remove it to feel for notchyness in the bearings but there was no rust or dust and the joints were solid trying to move them in place.

I then thought maybe the cv joints were bad but no torn boots or clicking noises coming from them and they seemed to move freely while turning the axle. I next changed both diffs fluid as I was planning on doing this anyway. Both diffs had the proper amount of fluid in them and were dark as expected but not like the TC. The diffs make no strange noises either so I'm confident this is not the issue. Still same vibrations.

I then thought that maybe it was the rear driveline and was about to pull the exhaust and have a look at the u joints and center bearing but decided there was no way that could be the issue as the x drove completely fine in 2 wheel drive and had no vibrations, even at speeds of 130 mph. So I unplugged the actuator motor and went for a drive. Smooth as silk with no vibrations under hard acceleration or anything. I read somewhere that maybe my tires could be the problem as they are not star rated by BMW. They are all the same stock size pirelli scorpion tires that look brand new with pressures exactly at what is recommended on the door sticker 32 front 35 rear. I can't imagine they are the problem.

So is the transfer case junk? What goes wrong inside it that would cause this vibration? I don't hear any chain noise or whining like bearing failure. It doesn't clunk. Could the actuator not being reset properly cause this by putting too much pressure on the clutches inside? I thought the reset procedure tested the resistance of the clutches using the actuator and set itself accordingly. Could the resistor on the actuator motor be the problem? If that has failed wouldn't you get a specific code for that? Could it be as simple as a worn out bushing / mount on the TC? That seemed in decent shape when I did the fluid change.

I can accept a bad transfer case as being the issue, but I want to understand what is wrong internally before removing it and rebuilding as that is expensive and time consuming. I have read about guys that have bought and replaced their TC when that really wasn't the problem and they wasted a lot of money. I'm also not confident that the dealer can properly diagnose this issue either. They are parts changers that have little ability to think and solve things other than what a computer tells them is wrong. I am willing to have them check it out, but if all they tell me is I need a new TC and quote me $4500 to fix it I'd rather not waste my time.

I'm a Bmw enthusiast and own several of them. I service them all myself and have for years. I am not a weekend wrencher. I fix and service other peoples BMWs. I have inpa on my laptop and do use it occasionally to diagnose stuff although I am not fluent in German and therefore shy away from using that exclusively. Any help on this matter would be much appreciated. All you x drive experts out there surely have the answer I am looking for. Please help me understand what to look for and where to go next to verify if my TC does truly need replacing. Thanks for reading and replying!

[jclausen]

The most common thing is that goes wrong is the transfer case actuator motor in the motor are plastic gears, I would take the actuator out and take the motor and inspect the plastic gears, especially the dark grey thinner gear, i did two gear replacements last week, but we had warning lights on. Second thing I would check is the brackets that hold the engine mounts, they use aluminum bolts and I have seen them break and the engine rests on the frame, also you can change the transfer case fluid, I don't think it will have any effect your problem but it's over looked.

[wodcutr]

Thanks for the reply. As noted in my original post the TC actuator motor gears were replaced and the fluid was also changed. The motor mounts look good, although I did not try to pick up the motor with my engine lift to know for sure. To me if those were really the problem, then I would get the vibration with the actuator motor disconnected and car in 2 wheel drive mode. Engine and transmission would put out same torque loads under hard acceleration and certainly you would feel it but in this case x is silky smooth.

[X3456]

Of course I'm no expert, if so I wouldn't be here...When I read your post...first thing comes to mind is guibo. Have you considered/inspected the flex disc?

Sent from my SM-J727T using Tapatalk

[vinyldude]

Some thoughts.
I honestly haven't seen or heard those LED based dash lights ever stop working.
Front axle joints are certainly a weak point in these cars. I think you would mostly notice it from clunking noise when turning, but at least in my case there was also some noticeable vibration when accelerating.

[wodcutr]

Of course I'm no expert, if so I wouldn't be here...When I read your post...first thing comes to mind is guibo. Have you considered/inspected the flex disc?

Sent from my SM-J727T using Tapatalk

Yes of course I thought about that along with the center support bearing on rear driveline. I have not lowered the exhaust and pulled the heat shield yet because to me if that was really causing the problem wouldn't it also vibrate in 2 wheel drive mode? Unplugging the actuator motor on the TC results in zero vibrations. I may have a look just for peace of mind!

[X3456]

Could the actuator be loose...perhaps not at any rate if it is the flex disc you'll know for sure as time goes on. Good luck with your quest friend

Sent from my SM-J727T using Tapatalk

[wodcutr]

Some thoughts.
I honestly haven't seen or heard those LED based dash lights ever stop working.
Front axle joints are certainly a weak point in these cars. I think you would mostly notice it from clunking noise when turning, but at least in my case there was also some noticeable vibration when accelerating.

My other x3 also has two lights that do not function and are "burned out" too. One is the bulb check light and the other is washer fluid light. I could never find out on the forums as to why they don't function but doing the cluster function test reveals that they don't work. I suppose if there is a way to tamper with them to make them non functional that could always be possible, but I have not been able to read about it anywhere or know if inpa can eliminate or code out the light.

I too suspected the front CV joints as a possible cause but the vibration is more in my butt rather than up front and the front end makes no noises while turning or clunking while accelerating. I have felt bad front axles on my x5 and know firsthand what that feels like.

I'm beginning to wonder if this is just the clutches in the TC binding too hard against each other. The vibration is getting less and less each time I drive it. Maybe the new fluid is lubricating them better each time it gets driven and they are getting all the gunk out from being unused for so long. The actuator could also be adjusting and relearning where to be for proper function too. I think it recalibrates every time you start and turn off the ignition, but I could be wrong on that...it may just be a functional test to know where the actuator is at startup and to release it when turning off, similar to the cam motor self check.

- - - Updated - - -

Could the actuator be loose...perhaps not at any rate if it is the flex disc you'll know for sure as time goes on. Good luck with your quest friend

Sent from my SM-J727T using Tapatalk

I reinstalled the actuator motor after replacing the internal gears and torqued the 4 bolts to spec. I can't imagine it's loose.

[jclausen]

with the actuator unplugged, then does that mean it's still in all wheel drive or only rear it's surprising that there are no warning lights, I wonder if there are any pending faults stored.

[wodcutr]

With the actuator unplugged the VTG module will set an internal fault and the DSC also sets a no communication fault which is why the three warning lights come on. My lights don't come on, but the faults show up in the modules. With non functional actuator the transfer case clutches can never be engaged so it is essentially in rear wheel drive only.

[vinyldude]

My other x3 also has two lights that do not function and are "burned out" too. One is the bulb check light and the other is washer fluid light. I could never find out on the forums as to why they don't function but doing the cluster function test reveals that they don't work. I suppose if there is a way to tamper with them to make them non functional that could always be possible, but I have not been able to read about it anywhere or know if inpa can eliminate or code out the light.

Those LEDs are directly soldered on a circuit board and not really designed to be replaced. I've assumed those would last a lifetime and then some.

I'm beginning to wonder if this is just the clutches in the TC binding too hard against each other. The vibration is getting less and less each time I drive it. Maybe the new fluid is lubricating them better each time it gets driven and they are getting all the gunk out from being unused for so long. The actuator could also be adjusting and relearning where to be for proper function too. I think it recalibrates every time you start and turn off the ignition, but I could be wrong on that...it may just be a functional test to know where the actuator is at startup and to release it when turning off, similar to the cam motor self check.

The factory repair procedures say if you change the fluid, a calibration procedure is required to the transfer case clutches. There is a specific procedure at least with (GT1) DIS to do that and since it is specifically mentioned in TIS, the recalibration to the direction of fresh fluid may not automatically happen without software.

[wodcutr]

After changing the TC fluid I did perform a reset where all values were set to zero and then the actuator could be heard adjusting in and out twice to calibrate the clutches for the new fluid. This was done with my foxwell NT520. I have changed a few TC fluid in the past and always perform the reset with no issues. If this is a clutch issue then it could just be that they were damaged from the low fluid level or from never being used for a long time and have crud in them.

[stege123]

@WODCUTR; how did this story end?? Still driving in 2 wheeldrive, or solved the problem?/

[wodcutr]

Drove all summer and fall in 2 wheel drive. Decided since winter is upon us in Utah to finally do something to get the all wheel drive back. I ordered a fully refurbished transfer case on eBay and it arrived last week. Pulled the exhaust and heat shield and started to disconnect the guibo and I noticed that the metal sleeves that the bolts go through had at least 1/8" of play back and forth when forcing driveshaft in either direction. The rest of the guibo had no cracks or any problems. After pulling it out I was pretty sure it needed to be replaced. Also pulled the support bracket off the TC and saw that the bushing / mount also had a slight crack and separation on one side of the metal middle section.

Seeing obvious issues with both of these parts I ordered new ones and didn't install the new TC yet. I had to get creative to pull the bushing out without having the special tool. I used a combination of a wheel bearing puller set I had and another special ball joint tool I had from when I replaced the rear ball joints on my e39. Once I figured out the correct parts I needed from each tool set and got everything in place the rubber bushing came out like butter. Just waiting on my new parts to arrive to install them and see if this solves my vibration problem in all wheel drive. I also decided to inspect the motor mounts for play as well. I suspect my left mount is junk now too. I could move it up and down quite easily with a crow bar. Maybe the combination of all of these is what my problem was. I still do not believe the TC is bad internally as it makes no bad noises while driving nor does the VTG module throw any codes since I replaced the shredded gear inside the actuator motor, changed the fluid and did a reset back when I first got the TC back online.

I am am hoping I will be able to return the rebuilt TC but not going to ship it out until these new parts are installed. I am still amazed that this x3 had zero vibration in 2 wheel drive, especially if my motor mount is really junk. I will report back with a progress report ASAP!

[dukedkt442]

If all 4 tires do not nearly-perfectly match in brand, size, and wear, don't even begin to go down the rabbit hole of chasing TC issues. The X-drive system can tolerate no more than a 2mm difference in overall tire diameter, so even brand new same-size tires of different brands can cause the system to go into hysterics and destroy the clutches.

And no, the TC does not need to be "reset" after a fluid changes. The TC adaptions adapt to the new fluid. Every time you start the car, the clutches go through their wear-determining procedure. I change my fluid every 20k and I've never re-adapted the TC, and I'm currently at 170k miles and have never even had a CEL, let alone an X-drive related light, code, or vibration.

If you are changing out the motor mounts, replace the aluminum mount-block bolts. They are a known failure item and shear. You MUST use the AL bolts because the block is Mg. Inspect your u-joints, especially the rear; if you see any brown/orange dust in the area, it is failing. Check for play. I removed the joint on mine to replace it (it showed audible and tactile but not visual play at 168k miles, while the carrier bearing was smooth and quiet), but then looking at the cost of machining the yoke for a new joint and having the shafts balanced together, I bought a brand new one with Spicer joints/carrier bearing from Driveline Specialists; the old shaft/bearing is in a box in the barn. Don't forget to pre-load the carrier bearing forward ~5mm when installing it.

[wodcutr]

Update!!! Installed new guibo and new transfer case mount bushing. Vibration still there. I had to eliminate the TC as the problem so I installed the new rebuilt one. I was truly disappointed when I went for a test drive and felt the vibration immediately. I was racking my brain and couldn't believe how expensive this was getting and no resolution. Ordered new motor mounts and got them installed. Upon removal I saw that the right one had a bit of play in it but it was still very much intact. Vibration actually got worse with new motor mounts! Frustrated, I pulled the front driveshaft again to have it looked at by a shop to check the balance. The u joints were tight and smooth in both directions. I've seen bad drive lines before and this seemed totally fine.

When I had the front end off the ground I figured I would have another thorough look at the front axles. I grabbed a hold of the right axle and it felt firm and didn't move around at all. I turned the wheel and watched it rotate and saw that when it got to a certain point the inner CV joint kind of popped out of joint. I thought that shouldn't do that and went over to the left side to see if it did the same thing. It did not. Inspecting it even closer I found that the CV joint only had this movement with the axle fully extended and at this certain point. Once rotated even 15 degrees it was solid and certainly with the wheels on the ground you couldn't feel any play in the joint at all. I knew this had to be the problem and pulled the axle. Took it down to an axle shop to have them rebuild it and upon taking it apart you could see that one of the three roller wheel bearings had broken off. Axle repaired, I reinstalled it and took it out for a drive. NO MORE VIBRATION!!!

So to explain what the problem was is this axle when the x3 was in 2 wheel drive would turn and rotate freely as long as everything was spinning equally. When the TC started applying torque to the front wheels the broken roller made itself known by binding at that certain spot with each rotation. The more load that was applied the more it shook the drivetrain. The axle made no strange noises. It was not clicking like a bad outer CV joint does when it goes bad. The boot was in great shape so nothing would indicate that this was bad. BMW of Pleasant Grove had the car to get their diagnosis and they told us that the transfer case had failed. That is the only reason I went ahead and purchased a rebuilt unit. It makes me so mad that these so called experts really have no diagnostic skills whatsoever. I have to admit this was a humdinger to figure out, but when an expert tells you that a major component of your drivetrain is junk you tend to lean toward it being true. Who goes to the doctor and disbelieves what they tell you?

Anyhow, I am tickled to have finally resolved this. I am even more convinced that someone coded out the lights to unload the vehicle because they couldn't figure this out either. I suppose it may be time to get ISTA and learn how to use it. If anyone needs a newly rebuilt TC I have one for sale as I'm reinstalling the old one that works perfectly fine!

[Slippery]

Bumping this thread to thank wodcutr.

I bought an X3 in Seattle to do a cross country trip to my home state of Florida with the family. The car has a freshly rebuilt tc, and then had the actuator motor replaced due to “an ongoing issue”.

There has been a vibration under load that was driving me nuts. I decided to pull the heatshield and inspect the giubo/csb and both look new.

I unplugged the actuator motor and all is good now.

I am in Vancouver driving towards Banff now and dont have to worry about what I thought was a giubo about to explode under my seat.

I bet the seller unloaded it because of this, which I did not noticed as I bought the car sight unseen.

Thanks!