E32 750 Window Chrome Cover + coolant temp. control in hot climate

[Abdalla.1990]

Hello

Im trying to find out the part number for window covering chrome as specified in below picture

https://ibb.co/SXv7K8G

Any Idea

[shogun]

that depends on built year , see under vehicle trim section, based on my 11/88 750iL it is this up to 01/1989 https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_0896

My Cars: BMW 750 IL

pls add to your profile built month and year

[Abdalla.1990]

that depends on built year , see under vehicle trim section, based on my 11/88 750iL it is this up to 01/1989 https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_0896


pls add to your profile built month and year

it has been built in Dec.1990

so its part No. 1 & 3, but its not indication that its chrome ?

[shogun]

01 Moulding left from 01/1989 51138111681 ENDED
01 Moulding right from 01/1989 51138111682 ENDED
01 Moulding left SCHWARZ 1 from 01/1989 51138114335 ENDED
01 Moulding right SCHWARZ 1 01/1989 51138114336 ENDED
02 Clamp X 51131924953
if nothing is mentioned, it is chrome, the other schwarz = black

On the German E32 forum there is mentioned, that the difference before and after 01/1989 is that the version before 01/89 the long one item 01 is 1 cm longer and item 03 is 1 cm shorter than the version after 01/89. That means the version after /before is just different in length , so it does not matter if you take before or after 01/1989 as long as you change both parts = 01 and 03, see pics here https://www.7-forum.com/forum/showth...ighlight=chrom

[Abdalla.1990]

01 Moulding left from 01/1989 51138111681 ENDED
01 Moulding right from 01/1989 51138111682 ENDED
01 Moulding left SCHWARZ 1 from 01/1989 51138114335 ENDED
01 Moulding right SCHWARZ 1 01/1989 51138114336 ENDED
02 Clamp X 51131924953
if nothing is mentioned, it is chrome, the other schwarz = black

On the German E32 forum there is mentioned, that the difference before and after 01/1989 is that the version before 01/89 the long one item 01 is 1 cm longer and item 03 is 1 cm shorter than the version after 01/89. That means the version after /before is just different in length , so it does not matter if you take before or after 01/1989 as long as you change both parts = 01 and 03, see pics here https://www.7-forum.com/forum/showth...ighlight=chrom

Thanks for the detail information, appreciated, so what i understand if no indication that its chrome mean its chrome.

[shogun]

that is how I understand the parts catalog, if nothing mentioned it is chrome, if Schwarz = Black

[Abdalla.1990]

one more thing, is the thermostat (70 Celsius) from E32 Japan will fit on my USA E32.

I believe the USA thermostat is 85 Celsius which will not work for hot countries like UAE.

[shogun]

it will fit, you can install either Thermostat 85CEL 11531729720 or Thermostat 70CEL 11531731486, but actually does not matter, that has an effect only when you start the cold engine, open thermostat is open. If you want to increase cooling effect, then change the aux fan system, This part is designed to turn on the fan at lower temperatures to help cooling in hot climates. 61318361787 Radiator Fan Switch - 3 Prong - 80/88 degree . The standard one is Radiator Fan Switch - 3 Prong - 91/99 degree Part # : 61311378073
Comment by someone living in the Philippines: Since I live in a tropical country i bought the 80/88 one and replaced the 91/99. Theres a difference and the engine runs cooler but the annoying part is the electric aux fan is always on high mode. If you are not annoyed by the electric fan always screeming then i suggest you change to 80/88.
In addition you could change the pulley + ribbed v-belt for the visco fan to hot climate version so that the visco fan runs faster. Check for part numbers here https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select
Pulley D=97MM 11511731905
Pulley D=109MM 11511709872
Fan 11 blade 11521712110
all this I already mentioned some years ago https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-no-oil-cooler

[Abdalla.1990]

it will fit, you can install either Thermostat 85CEL 11531729720 or Thermostat 70CEL 11531731486, but actually does not matter, that has an effect only when you start the cold engine, open thermostat is open. If you want to increase cooling effect, then change the aux fan system, This part is designed to turn on the fan at lower temperatures to help cooling in hot climates. 61318361787 Radiator Fan Switch - 3 Prong - 80/88 degree . The standard one is Radiator Fan Switch - 3 Prong - 91/99 degree Part # : 61311378073
Comment by someone living in the Philippines: Since I live in a tropical country i bought the 80/88 one and replaced the 91/99. Theres a difference and the engine runs cooler but the annoying part is the electric aux fan is always on high mode. If you are not annoyed by the electric fan always screeming then i suggest you change to 80/88.
In addition you could change the pulley + ribbed v-belt for the visco fan to hot climate version so that the visco fan runs faster. Check for part numbers here https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select
Pulley D=97MM 11511731905
Pulley D=109MM 11511709872
Fan 11 blade 11521712110
all this I already mentioned some years ago https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-no-oil-cooler

I believe the electronic fan is always on in my car. maybe the previous owner connect it directly upon the car start.

car temperature is always half, but some times if i park the car and i keep it on for 10 or 15 min i see the temperature going little up (between half and 3/4) and oonce again i drive it tern back to half so i decide to change the thermostat and maybe the water pump to make sure there is no problem in cooling system. (Radiator i hv change 4 month back)

[shogun]

Probably in UAE you have the aircon always running, with aircon on the auxiliary fan is automatically on in low speed.The system works as following, http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_20.htm

The temperature gauge indicator should not go up when you park the car and let the engine run. Here in Japan we also have in the summer temperatures around 40 degree Celsius and on my 750 the temperature gauge stays always at 12 o' clock, even in traffic jam or when the car is parked and engine is running.
I would test the aux fan if it runs at both speeds, low and high, see above link how to test, and test the visco fan clutch, I assume the visco fan clutch is your problem, not the thermostat and not the water pump, the M70 water pump has usually a very long lifetime. That is typical for a weak visco clutch. Here is how to test the visco clutch, written by MWrench: Fan Clutch test
First, lets discuss what the fan clutch does and why it is there. The fan clutch is just what the name says, it is a mechanism that will clutch the fan on and off depending on the need for more or less cooling air to flow thru the radiator. It is a thermostatically controlled device that when operating normally will vary the fan speed independently of the engine speed. When cruising down the road at freeway speeds, with outside temperature less then desert conditions, the fan should be merely be idling along, turning just fast enough to add a little air flow when needed, in this way the fan noise and drag on the engine is greatly reduced. When reducing speed, the fan clutch will sense higher temperatures thru the radiator and “clutch up” thereby increasing the fan
speed to help maintain constant engine temperature. It may in fact, cycle as the temperature of the air thru the radiator changes depending on airflow. If the fan clutch operation is normal, when first starting the car, the fan clutch should “clutch up” and an increase in noise and airflow should be obvious. After about 60-90 seconds, the fan will un-clutch and the noise and airflow will drop. The fan will continue to turn but at a much reduced speed. As the engine warms and the thermostat opens to regulate the temperature, the air thru the radiator gets hotter and the clutch will sense this, thereby increasing the speed of the fan to maintain a normal operating temperature.
First signs of trouble:
A normal temperature indication at freeway speeds and an increasing temperature as the vehicle slows is one of the first indications of trouble. Many other things may give this indication but if the temperature seems to be stable at speeds but climbs in traffic or while stopped, this is a good indication that the fan clutch isn’t working correctly. As the temperature continues to climb, the auxiliary electric fan should start but may not provide enough air to keep the engine from overheating.
Another sign of trouble is if the fan noise is high and never decreases after starting, and is there anytime the engine RPM is higher then idle, this means that the fan clutch is “frozen” and is not releasing. Although this will not result in immediately serious trouble, it will load the engine continually and gas MPG will be reduced. Load on the fan belt(s) will be higher and shorten the life of that component also.
Fan modifications:
It has been suggested that other models of BMW fans can be substituted to reduce the noise and load of the fan. This is NOT recommended! If the fan clutch is working properly, there should be no need to replace with a lesser fan. The noise and load of the fan should only be there when it is “clutched up” and the fan speed needed to keep that big V-12 cool. BMW designed it this way and it is never a good idea to alter the cooling system and in particular where alloy engines would be effected.
Testing the fan clutch:
If you have reason to suspect that the fan clutch is defective, here is the recommended procedure to verify the condition of the fan clutch.
1. Start the car (cold) with the hood open and note if the fan is turning, increase the engine RPM and note if the fan turns faster and the noise increases, if it does, first good indication, if it does not increase speed/noise, clutch is bad and needs to be replaced. (Remember, this must be tested after the car has been off for and extended period, over night etc.)
2. Leave engine running and note if the fan starts to slow down after 2-5 minutes, speed/noise should diminish and even raising the RPM, the fan should not make as much noise as when first starting, if it does slow, this is the second good indication. If
speed/noise does not decrease, clutch may be “frozen” and should be replaced.
3. Leave the engine idle and watch the temperature indicator. When normal operating temperature has been reached, some increase in fan speed/noise should be noted, in particular when the RPM is increased. If temperature is fairly stable and the fan
noise/speed increases or cycles, third good indication. If temperature indication continues to increase, with no increase in fan noise/speed, clutch is defective and should be replaced.
4. After the engine is at normal operating temperature or above, is the only time that the “rolled up newspaper” test that many people talk about should be performed! Take some newspaper and roll it up into a long narrow tube. Be careful, keep hands and fingers away from the fan while performing this test! With the engine at full operating temperature and idling, take the rolled up paper and insert it on the back side of the fan and try to reach the hub of the fan avoiding the blades until close to the hub. Push the rolled paper at the fan increasing the friction to the hub area of the fan. If the fan can not be stopped easily this is the fourth good indication, if it can be stopped the clutch is defective and should be replaced. Again, this test can only be performed when the engine is at or above full operating temperature. Testing can be performed in any order but just make sure the conditions during testing are those that are specified for that specific test.Do not continue to operate the engine if the temperature continues to rise and certainly stop if the temperature approaches “redline”.

Fan clutch removal http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_14.htm note that it is a left-hand thread

[Abdalla.1990]

clutch fan is working well as per the procedure above.

now it could be either thermostat or W/P, since you mentioned that W/P have long lifetime; so most properly the thermostat is no working properly.

for the electric fan; not all the time air conditional is on, and even when its off; the fan keep on. i ask the previous owner yesterday and he told me he connect it direct to the switch even when the A/C is off. is this might become a problem ? if its on all the time.

[shogun]

Basically no problem with the aux fan, but is it running all the time in low or high speed? Always in high might be a bit noisy.

[Abdalla.1990]

Basically no problem with the aux fan, but is it running all the time in low or high speed? Always in high might be a bit noisy.

its running in low speed all the time

[shogun]

Then better fix it like it is original with low and high speed selection via the temp sensor at the side of the radiator. If needed when the engine gets too hot, the high speed fan would kick in automatically. Maybe you talk with the former owner what he changed, so that you can fix it.