Synchronized locking system woes.

[molliem]

Hi folks,

my e38 1994 740iL's locking system has given me grief over the years, so, not being mechanically inclined, I never used the synchronized vacuum locking mechanism. Because whenever I did (accidentally) disaster ensued. Despite my feeble attempt to resync the locking system according to the manual, I never managed it and gave up (probably too quickly).

In the meanwhile, I bought another 7 series (God, I love these cars!), and decided to give my 1994 740iL to my friend...You can guess where this is going...

I told him about the locking issue, but he forgot. He locked it - oops! - but was able, mercifully, to unlock the car using the key manually in the drivers side door. The back passanger door on the drivers side opened and he was able to get in the car and open the car using the door handle.

Whew.

But - and here's where it goes sideways - during the night the car (bless it) decides to lock itself. I wish I was kidding. Locked out again he tries the previous method to no avail.

I should mention that I have never had, nor used a keyless remote type key. I just the used the basic key with no buttons on it.

I told him to try the method outlined in the manual - but he didn't have any success with it. He said he did not hear a clicking noise when he turned the key on the passenger side door in the number five position.

Naturally, I feel terrible.

I have been reading the forum and most of the people have issues with the keyless entry remote type locking system. But I have had, nor used such a key. In fact, I don't even have one one. The previous owner never had one either. I was given a small square thingie with four buttons on it which I never used, nor did I ever bother to find out what it was used for.

I'm old school and I like to stick to basics, no fancy keys or remote button operations, thank you. So, what advice can I give my friend? He's still locked out! And yes, I still feel really bad!

Any help would be most appreciated.

p.s. - I just want to mention - the battery is fine, and the trunk is locked as well.

[Mayorchuck]

First things first. You either have a 1995 E38 or a 1994 E32 model. While some E38's were manufactured in 1994, for the 1995 model, the 1994 model year 7 series is a E32. You should be able to manually unlock the drivers door or trunk by turning the key 90 degrees to the left. This is designed to during electrical failures. It was be rare that both the drivers door and trunk have a mechanical failure with the lock.

[molliem]

Thank you for your quick response! Yes, I have an E38 1994 740iL. I will relay this to the poor soul. Fingers crossed!

[molliem]

The new owner (the poor soul) of my beloved old 740iL told me the saga of being locked out of the car and how he was, finally, able to get back in:

"So I get off work and try to unlock the car, and only the rear doors pop open. I had to climb through the back and into the drivers seat, the cars starts right up and I drive home.

The next morning I go out to it and attempt to unlock the front drivers side door with the key, I mess with it for a couple seconds turning it back and fourth, it then locked the rear doors and I was completely locked out with the key in my hand, there was no clicking of the internal locking mechanism.

After some reading I found that the only way to unlock the car manually was from the front passenger side door. At first this wasn't even working.

After doing even more reading I found that you have to turn the key to the right hard. As hard as you can with two fingers and pull the handle simultaneously. I did this and it unlocked the door, I was stoked.

The car had been sitting for a week.

I then climbed over into the drivers seat and tried to start the engine, it only cranked but would not fire. I immediately thought it had something to do with the anti theft system. I could turn the key to the 'on' position and move the shifter and the windows up and down but it would not start.

I got out and wasn't sure what to do, so I kept messing with the key in all the locks, finally I went to the trunk which had previously been stuck locked like all the other doors and it opened. I then shut it and opened it again with the key and to my surprise it unlocked all the other doors. Then the car started right up.

Basically it's just an old BMW. "

I hate to leave him with that thought, so is there anything I can tell him at this point except to pray and hope it never happens again? If he can't lock the car for fear of getting locked out again at the least shouldn't he be able to lock the valuables in the trunk if he can never lock the car again. The only advice I could give him: don't lock the car. Ever.

[BillConn]

You have an E32, not an E38. You need to post this question in the E32 forum to get a proper answer. The E32 had the vacuum central locking system. The E38 is all electric door lock solenoids.

[molliem]

Thanks Bill for the correction. I will post the saga to the e32 forum.

[Mayorchuck]

I can tow this to the E32 forum so you don't have to go over it all again.

[shogun]

You have an E32, not an E38. You need to post this question in the E32 forum to get a proper answer. The E32 had the vacuum central locking system. The E38 is all electric door lock solenoids.

All E32 have a electric door solenoid system. What is the VIN of the car? Maybe it is a E38, E32 were built till around April 1994 and then came the E38 model.
In case it is an E32, try to synchronize the lock system , see here, same procedure as on the E34 http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Trouble/Locked.htm

In most cases when the locking system does not work anymore:
microswitches http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/door...croswitch.html
old, hardened grease http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/do...kMechanism.htm
broken door lock bracket http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/door...k_bracket.html
broken grommets in the links https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...light=grommets
Maybe there is moisture in the lock system and now frozen and the old hard grease hardens even more now in the cold weather.

Or the needed power was too high because of frozen locks. The GM under driver side rear seat has an internal overload relay, so there we are limited with the GM. The relay switches off
when there is > 60 seconds more than 36A or
when there is longer than 0.3 seconds between 36A and 60A (overload)
when there is longer than 0.1 seconds >60A (short circuit)

This internal relay inside the GM is additionally to the normal 30A fuse. The electronic fuse is reversible. Inside the GM the load of the RM is measured and in case that exceeds certain values, the reversible fuse will stop the action. The switch off values are set to less than the 30A fuse. So this 30A fuse will not melt. An automatic switch on comes after 60 seconds, however, only, if the power consumer was switched off or in case there is no short circuit detected. The lock is released by switching off terminal 15. A automatic switch on is possible 6 times with terminal 15 switched on. For example to reduce the Amps only max. 2 window switches can be operated at the same time. In case several window switches are pushed at the same time, only the first 2 pushed ones will operate. In case already with 2 pushed switches the limit is reached, the system will switch off one switch. In such case the front door windows have priority.

[molliem]

You guys are amazing. I am getting the VIN so the question can be resolved. Meanwhile, I have forwarded your advice to the new owner. Thank you so much!