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Thread: Can't hold idle, dies immediatly

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Phoenix, AZ
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    97 M3

    Can't hold idle, dies immediatly

    Hi Chaps,

    I'm having an issue where I start the car, it dies immediately.
    When I give it lots of throttle upon starting I hear a massive whoosh as I fight it to keep it running, but immediately dies.

    I did reseal the Vanos. So had all that apart and also had the Airbox and MAF out. MAF was wrapped in a towel sitting on the ground outside for the weekend.
    First start with the engine back together and intake back on the car, it would die upon revving or trying to move it...but would hold a nice steady idle as long as I didn't touch the gas pedal..

    Uplugged the MAF and the car idled and revved without dying. And this is with a heavily cracked intake boot and disconnected ICV to intake boot connection.
    So i replaced the intake boot/ ICV hose, put it back together and its worse than ever now.

    I don't see any loose hoses anywhere and everything is plugged back in.

    About to go get MAF cleaner and waiting for roommate to get home so he can start the car/rev while I check where that whoosh is coming from.

    Codes
    P0101 -Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit Range/Performance.
    P1525 pending - Camshaft Position Actuator 'A' Control Open Circuit Bank 1 ( I had this code before the install as the vanos was unplagged- cleared codes, but its still there)

    Any other ideas? thx.
    Last edited by Skunk; 02-18-2020 at 07:22 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Austin, TX
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    S54 E36 M3, E32 740il
    Quote Originally Posted by Skunk View Post
    Hi Chaps,

    I'm having an issue where I start the car, it dies immediately.
    When I give it lots of throttle upon starting I hear a massive whoosh as I fight it to keep it running, but immediately dies.

    I did reseal the Vanos. So had all that apart and also had the Airbox and MAF out. MAF was wrapped in a towel sitting on the ground outside for the weekend.
    First start with the engine back together and intake back on the car, it would die upon revving or trying to move it...but would hold a nice steady idle as long as I didn't touch the gas pedal..

    Uplugged the MAF and the car idled and revved without dying. And this is with a heavily cracked intake boot and disconnected ICV to intake boot connection.
    So i replaced the intake boot/ ICV hose, put it back together and its worse than ever now.

    I don't see any loose hoses anywhere and everything is plugged back in.

    About to go get MAF cleaner and waiting for roommate to get home so he can start the car/rev while I check where that whoosh is coming from.

    Codes
    P0101 -Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit Range/Performance.
    P1525 pending - Camshaft Position Actuator 'A' Control Open Circuit Bank 1 ( I had this code before the install as the vanos was unplagged- cleared codes, but its still there)

    Any other ideas? thx.
    That whoosh - It just sounds like you didn't plug something back in - like the brake booster or something else down below.

    I forget the booster line all the time. Did you double check everything?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Phoenix, AZ
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    97 M3
    I really don't see anything that's unplugged. Unless I bumped something loose.. i'll check again tomorrow though.

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skunk View Post
    I really don't see anything that's unplugged. Unless I bumped something loose.. i'll check again tomorrow though.
    Keep in mind that the break booster plugs in underneath the accordion intake boot - you can't see it normally, so you forget it's there. That's always the first place I look.

    -Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
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    Parker, Colorado
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    GTS3 E36, 97 M3/4/5
    Quote Originally Posted by blckstrm View Post
    Keep in mind that the break booster plugs in underneath the accordion intake boot - you can't see it normally, so you forget it's there. That's always the first place I look.
    Actually, the brake booster plugs into the nipple on the side of the intake, just rear of the throttle body. The IAC plugs in on the underside of the accordion boot and can definitely cause all of the issues mentioned above as un-metered air is getting past the MAF. And yeah... that's the one that I always forget to plug in as well.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    97 M3
    Correct.
    Both lines are plugged in.
    I'm guessing I threw my timing off when I did the vanos seals. I'm really not looking forward to this issue. Its a real *unt.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Gulf Coast Fl
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    275
    My Cars
    98 M3
    I just got done with this exact thing. Turned out to be my MAF. Kicker was I wasn't getting a p0101 code. But ordered on from fcp and it solved everything.
    But it's a 90s M3......
    This is the way!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Left Coast View Post
    I just got done with this exact thing. Turned out to be my MAF. Kicker was I wasn't getting a p0101 code. But ordered on from fcp and it solved everything.
    Were you working on the vanos and your MAF took a dump?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
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    Gulf Coast Fl
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skunk View Post
    Were you working on the vanos and your MAF took a dump?
    Not vanos but was originally thinking it had something to do with my camshaft sensor. Ended up not changing it once I swapped out the maf. Also cant cheap out on this part I tried an Amazon special and an ebay oe used no go. Once I put in the VDO one. It cranked right up nice idle in neutral and drove like an M car should.
    But it's a 90s M3......
    This is the way!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Left Coast View Post
    Not vanos but was originally thinking it had something to do with my camshaft sensor. Ended up not changing it once I swapped out the maf. Also cant cheap out on this part I tried an Amazon special and an ebay oe used no go. Once I put in the VDO one. It cranked right up nice idle in neutral and drove like an M car should.
    Ok. I'm going to double check the timing today and if that fails i'll order the MAF from autohauAZ. It has to be one of the 2.

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by John in Houston View Post
    Actually, the brake booster plugs into the nipple on the side of the intake, just rear of the throttle body. The IAC plugs in on the underside of the accordion boot and can definitely cause all of the issues mentioned above as un-metered air is getting past the MAF. And yeah... that's the one that I always forget to plug in as well.
    DOH - yes, of course you're right.

    Everyone forgets that bottom IAC line.

  12. #12
    Join Date
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    Just closing out this thread.

    Fixed the problem a while ago after doing more research on timing the vanos. My mistake was messing with 2 different systems at the same time so I didnt know where the problem was. I assumed it was the Vanos, which it was off a tooth in timing but I believe I disturbed the ICV when I was changing out the torn hose which created a massive air leak as well as timing being off.

    There's little bits of critical info scattered all over the place.

    In mybimmerspace's video he explained better than others what 'catching the first tooth of the Vanos Helical gear' actually means.

    M3nace has a wealth of info also in clear tutorials.

    Also my other mistake was not lining up the cam sprocket bolt holes in the center of the 'elongated holes'.

    After I knew I did the timing perfectly I re did the intake system Up to the ICV. Cleaned ICV while I was at it.

    Then she started up. Or he.. I dunno, I don't want to assume its gender.


    Idles at 1000rpm which I don't like and will sort out later but runs smoother than before and doesn't start choking at mid range rpm. Haven't really tested it out yet.
    Last edited by Skunk; 03-21-2020 at 03:28 PM.

  13. #13
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    It took me awhile, but I am glad I finally bought one of those paint can/smoke machine on ebay for $70. It has been a huge help finding any vacuum leaks and instead of drowning everything in the engine bay with brake cleaner/wd-40, etc. No more guessing!
    1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
    CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)

    1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
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