Just wanted to share my fix this weekend. I've had a clunk over bumps coming from the rear, kind of sounded like a strut noise, for quite some time now. Also, I could jack up the rear wheel and give it a hard shake, 12 & 6 o'clock positions, and it would clunk.
So I finally changed these ball joints and what a difference! No more clunking. Pretty easy to press out and back in with the right tool. So don't put this easy job off! My M3 is at 160k miles so it was past due.
Lemfoerder parts frpm FCP!
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Thanks for the knowledge brother. Did you have to modify the tool any? Looks possibly shaved down to fit with the dust shield in place.
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I bought the whole set by Schwaben a while back, it came already with a chamfer to clear the heat shield but it's still a very tight fit. But works well nonetheless.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...caAhmZEALw_wcB
Auto parts guy, were you the one who bought new bushings and they were the wrong size? Someone on here bought a set of those bushings and it was a loose fit.
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I would also recommend that if you haven't done this to your car since you've owned it, that you buy both camber adjustment bolts. Mine were seized in the bushing and just a pain to get out...ended up destroying one of them.
Also, I believe it is recommended that you torque the nut to 81 ft/lbs with the suspension loaded to at the proper height.
Lastly, you'll need an alignment if you didn't mark the orientation of the lower camber bolt.
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
That rear camber eccentric bolt is something people don't understand when working with it. Normally when removing a bolt, you hold the nut and turn the bolt. But not on this one, you hold the bolt and turn the nut otherwise it will get destroyed. When making an adjustment, after loosening the nut you turn the bolt to make the adjustment.
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