Working under your Z3?

[lyunardo]

That looks completely stable, but also scares the living daylights out of me. All at the same time.

[bdiefAZ]

Phoenix Area Z3 wrench fest?

You can use my lift if needed for day projects ...just get in touch. Its in Mesa near the 60 and 101

[sydjai]

I am about to get myself a set of QuickJacks, at of all places Home Depot! They have a Black Friday sale on the BL-5000SLX model for $1,050.

The issue PhilPhil points out about the depth and/or compression strength of the concrete can be an issue with your garage for a two post lift. Another issue, like my house, is that I have a post-tension slab, and I would have to have a company come in with a Ground Penetrating Radar (GPR) to locate where the tensioning cables are, and then after doing that (and paying for it) I still may not be able to install a lift in either garage bay, depending on where the cables are - i.e. they could be in places that interfere with one, or both of the locations where I would want to drill for installing lift(s).

I sure wish, that when I had the house built, I had taken some spray paint and marked the slab where those cables are! I have though about putting a fire-resistant safe in the slab in the master walk-in closet and am faced with the same issue about the location of the cables in the slab...

The other nice thing about a set of QuickJacks is that I can throw them on my trailer, under the Z3 (will have to add some more tie downs for cross straps), and take them to the track with me!

EDIT: Oh, FYI, if y'all with QuickJacks haven't figured this out already, at least for the BL-5000SLX model (not sure what the size differences are on the other '5000' series and the '3500' series) you can lift the Z3 (and most likely other similar sized vehicles) with the QuickJacks running 90 degrees to the 'normal' orientation. The pictures shown on the Home Depot site (see below) actually show a Z3 being lifted like this; one QJ frame assembly across the front lift points and the other QJ frame assemble across the back lift points. (although in that photo it looks like they have the front QJ frame assy. too far back...)
But I guess the point here is that the width of the Z3 (between lift points) seems to fall within the specs of where you can place the lift blocks on the BL-5000SLX, which the manual says is minimum of 29.5" and a maximum of 60".
I am at work at the moment, so not quite sure what the distance is between the lift points, either front to back or side to side (will measure tonight before I buy a QJ) but the rear track width of my Z3 is listed on-line as 58.8, if I remember correctly it seems like the rear jack points would be about at the middle of the rear tires, so 58 to 59 inches would be a ballpark, which just fits the QJ sideways.
Attachment 680957

Did you get a QuickJack? I’m looking to pull the trigger on one of these. It looks like the measurements of the 7000SLX are basically the same as the 5000SLX and I would like to get the larger lift to work on my RAM 1500 crew cab.
I was wondering if the 5000SLX worked out on your Z? From the measurements, it should, as should the 7000.
Thanks!!

[Trademark1]

Also on Black Friday sale at Costco. Deal is for kits with wall hangers and pinch weld blocks for only slightly more than unit alone at Home Depot.

[pine1000]

Also on Black Friday sale at Costco. Deal is for kits with wall hangers and pinch weld blocks for only slightly more than unit alone at Home Depot.

Man, these things are heavy to hang on a wall. I designed some roller bearing mounts for mine that let them roll around like a traditional car jack. So much easier to move around.

[kolosy]

Did you get a QuickJack? I’m looking to pull the trigger on one of these. It looks like the measurements of the 7000SLX are basically the same as the 5000SLX and I would like to get the larger lift to work on my RAM 1500 crew cab.
I was wondering if the 5000SLX worked out on your Z? From the measurements, it should, as should the 7000.
Thanks!!

the 5000 slx works fine with a z. about 6" or so on either end of it to the wheel.

[WB-MZ]

Here is an interest article on different home lifts.

https://www.cnet.com/roadshow/news/b...&cid=534713542

On the QuickJack the 7000SLX is probably the most useful as it can also pick up most trucks and SUVs. It is the same size as the 5000SLX but it is 1/2" taller at 3 1/2", you can also buy the extender kit for it to pick up extra long vehicles. Costco generally has the best deals you just have to watch out for them.
Costco has a sale on now for the 7000SLX truck lift kit for those of you that want to lift your car up higher. $1499.99 delivered that's $200.00 off.

https://www.costco.com/.product.1006...fb91119c547c.7

Wayne B.

[cyberman]

So, thinking about my ramps and how they don't work on the front due to clearance, I found some video's on how to make ramp extensions out of 2X8' or 2X10 boards.

Here's one:

But what I really like is the possibilities of making an all wood ramp since it would allow me get a bit more height if I want. I also learned a new trick here. The trick is in reversing the drill and using a larger bit to make a counter bore. The only big issue I can see with the all-wood approach is weight and maybe storage. Video here:

[cyberman]

So, it works - a standard 2X10 is 9-1/4 wide which is just about exactly the width of my stock tires. Some carriage bolts (5/8"), some table saw work to cut the 10 foot board in half and bevel the approach edge, and here we go:

20201128_155659.jpg

I found the first test a bit frightening. you either need a spotter or trust you lined everything up well. Then, there is an unnatural feel - I couldn't really tell when the tires cleared the little hump on the leading edge of the platform and thus almost went too far. Then, when I realized I'd made it, I crawled under to see if I could bleed the brakes without pulling the wheels (yes, you can), but it's damn tight under there for my rotund old ass. And, I'll definitely need more clearance to replace the rubber brake lines, and the clutch line forget it. So, the ramps are good for oil changes and the like, but too low for any serious work. Boo. I'll be back to my jack stands for a lot of things, most things, I'd guess. Here she is up in the air:

20201128_155301.jpg

[cyberman]

Oh and that 40,000 BTU heater from the Tractor Store (lists for $89 online, marked $55 at my store) will absolutely cook you in an insulated 2-1/2 car garage. Its in the bottom photo, mounted on the propane bottle. Cheap solution, on high it will run for 10 hours - and a Tractor Store fill costs $12 now.

[White Z]

Didn't see any heater picture?

[sydjai]

I thought that too.

You have to click on the second picture in his last post, then you can see the whole picture. The heater is on the upper right side of the pic.

[White Z]

Got it thanks

[cyberman]

Sorry, I missed the last few posts. The heater is a bit obscured by its background. It's marketed under different labels all over the place for prices from $90 and up. Early reviews were bad for reliability and functionality. I read a lot of posts and got some tricks, as well as finding a flaw of my own:

1. The instructions say turn it to low and light with a match through a hole in the skirt. It won't light for me that way. But it lights nicely with a lighter (long nose grill lighter preferred) with the flame adjacent the outside bottom part of the heated element.

2. As users noted, the button to hold down until the thermocouple gets up to temp is small and hard to push (uncomfortable). But, you can lower the time needed by simply turning it up to high once it's lit.

3. The tilt sensor safety is incredibly sensitive, even a small jog caused by releasing the pilot button, or jiggling the unit when changing the heat setting can shut it down. So, be slow and gentle when doing these things.

4. There is an "Off" setting on the heater control. But if you turn it off before closing the tank on the propane bottle, it leaves pressure in it and causes problems when you try to relight it. Don't ask me why. The trick is to leave it running and close the valve on the tank first, and then turn the heater's control to off.

Other than that, reliability issues remain to uncover themselves. I will say when I was in New Hampshire, I had a Mr. Heater propane-powered unit that lasted for years of almost constant use in my basement where I had my office. It can be wall mounted or free standing on the floor. This is the one I had there:

heater.png

But I decided to try this one because it was higher BTU output and cost me 1/3 the price. But, the low-oxygen shut-off would be nice. I settled for a carbon monoxide detector instead.

[Vintage42]

... The only big issue I can see with the all-wood approach is weight and maybe storage. Video here:

I have used these all-wood ramps for about ten years. Made of 2x10s with 45 degree beveled ends. Gorilla glued and screwed, with lag bolted end stops.

Wood ramps.jpg

They do not walk or slide, have strong end-stops, and are so heavy that I drag them with big handles. When I want a little more height, I add blocks of 2x4 under the ends.

I also bought a set of plastic Rhino ramps that are a little higher and weigh nothing, but the car just scoots them away, so I gave up on chasing the Rhinos.

[cyberman]

I have used these all-wood ramps for about ten years.

Yep, the all wood idea is better - you can make it go as high as your balls will allow. I'm thinking of getting a couple of 2X12's long enough to screw under the whole contraption, metal ramps and all. I think just 1-1/2" more height would get me where I want it to be. It's going to be a Frankenstein monster, but hey, we do what we need to do.

[khammack]

It's going to be a Frankenstein monster, but hey, we do what we need to do.

Just make sure that whatever you build it is solid and safe. You may want to add secondary spacers (like tires or additional wood blocks) under the car before you get under the car to make sure you don't get squished.

I also built a set of wood ramps and always make sure I apply double (or more) safety measures.

Update:
Oh, and one more thing - you also want to make sure your car doesn't roll back down the ramps by itself!

[modifiede30]

I have a few methods for getting underneath my 2 cars - both pretty low.

For my Porsche, I use stepped ramps I made from 2x10's - 4 of them in total so about 6" total. Its enough for me to get under the rear to do oil changes but I don't do much else on that car myself.

For my Z3M, I am currently using 4 large jack stands that I've been able to completely remove and re-install the entire car without having much issue - full disassembly down to bare chassis, including all suspension and drivetrain components. Unless you're a really big guy, these are sufficient. I have a lift, but it was easier to use the fixed stands than constantly fussing with my lift since its a shorty style

[mpire]

My process is to roll the car up on the front ramps, then jack the rear at the diff to the highest position and put in the rear jack stands. Then I jack the front from the front cross brace, I installed the E46 M3 center jack pad. Then when its high enough I put the jack stands under the factory spots.

Dropping it is just the opposite process.

I have to use the roll on ramps because the car is too low to get a jack under it otherwise.

I've got the standard sears 3.5 ton jack stands with some c channel and a rubber block hammered on top to fit the jack points. I put the jack stands on a piece of 1/2 inch MDF pads to protect my floor.

Its good enough to do just about anything. I have pulled everything that has ever been bolted to the car at one point or another. Pulling the transmission is easy enough, but its definitely easier on a lift. However, with the lift I always feel rushed when its in my garage I can just take my time and do all those "while your are it" stuff.

[Solarphil]

I’ve been blessed to have had both the Max Jax back when I had a house that had a garage, and Quick Jacks now at my storage garage. Both after years of doing work on dirt and jack stands. The Max Jax was the bomb for actually getting work done on the car, it was incredible how easy it made doing simple or complex repairs. The biggest advantage of the Max Jax over a standard two post lift is that it will fit in a garage with a standard ceiling height.

The Quick Jack is great for doing tire changes and for mobility, as it can be rolled out of the way or even stored under a car (haven’t tried that yet with the Z3 tho). It’s not as handy for doing more complex work, as it only lifts up a couple feet.

Either way, both are the best money you’ll spend on your shop. My wife bought me the Max Jax for an early birthday when she saw my plans for how to lift the 2002 to do an engine swap, based on photos from the internet. She really loves me :-)