Annual Tune Up

[320iAman]

Performed the Annual tune-2-14,15-2020

New

Wix Oil Filter 51374
Wix Fuel Filter 33276--Design Change-Bosch 71033 as well, argh !
Mobil 1 15W-50 with higher ZDDP for flat tappets
Liquid Moly MoS2 oil additive
Mahle Air Filter LX 36
O2 Sensor 11032 eq
Bosch Rotor 04038
Bosch Distributor Cap 03212
Bosch Spark Plugs WR 9 DS x 4

Re-torqued Cylinder head Bolts -1/4 turn loose then to Stage III in tightening order 1 thru 10.
Valves I/E .007 " set in order at TDC 1-3-4-2
Timing 25 Deg BTDC @ 2200 Rpm
Curb Idle Speed 850 +/- 50 Rpm

Topped off Getrag 245 Transmission Fluid with Shell Spirax GL-4
Tested with Tool Aid 33800
System Pressure- 71-72 PSI
Control Pressure-Cold 16 psi--due to colder weather at 72 ambient its 20 psi
Control Pressure-Warm 50 psi
Rest Pressure -26 psi
Tested with an Actron III Ignition Module and KV Tester
Coil Test 16-20 KV
Spark Plug Wires 1-4,, 14-18 KV
Ignition Control Module Test(run thru various rpms simulated by voltage,ect)-Green Light-Okay

Set A/F ratio in power band area

Running very smooth and steady

Got some new tires(4) as well, Barum 185 70 13 Czech Company with controlling interest Continental Tire Co--German Company

Coated the cylinder head and the valve cover areas which sandwich the valve cover gasket with Hylomar Universal Blue to chase away oil leaks from there.

Randy

[jaredmac11]

Randy please tell me retightening the head bolts falls under your annual tune up, regularly.

Only you would have that as a tune-up item.


Also tell me about the Moly additive?

Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk

[320iAman]

Yes, I do this annually to keep the Cylinder head adjusted to Block with the sandwiched Cylinder head gasket , helps to keep warp age down on these bi metal motors with ensuing head gasket breaking.
Liquid Moly 2009 is an anti friction oil additive that helps keep wear down from metal to metal contact, like ZDDP except is does not break away like ZDDP its a protective layer between metal to metal.

Randy

[jaredmac11]

Honestly that's an impressive amount of effort Randy.

Have you done a write up on all the tests you're running? You need to get on Youtube and make your 15 cents a month off of the 50 folks who would be interested in this

Ive never broken down an M10 but I have a seized M10 in my garage I wanna take a peek at. You have to remove the cam to get to these head bolts right? How are you removing the cam?

What do you mean by System Pressure? Is that a leakdown test or are you testing the cooling system pressure? What about cold, warm, rest pressure?


Also how are you testing AF ratio?


Youre a madman.

[amarino]

First my question for Randy so it doesn't get lost below. Can you give more info on this test? How do you test it and what does it tell you? "Ignition Control Module Test(run thru various rpms simulated by voltage,ect)-Green Light-Okay"


Let me help out with the other questions where I can.

Here is a good video going over all the different Liquid Moly Products: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dj80AFvcmzo

No need to remove the camshaft to get to the head bolts. Here's a pic with the valve cover off:
IMG_20191124_140335.jpg


The different pressures he's referring to are likely the fuel system pressures. In the DIY/FAQ thread starting reading here and it goes over everything: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...7#post15904137


There is also a section in the above DIY/FAQ about different ways to test the AF ratio:

Fine Tuning Mixture Setting
If you clean your WUR, swap fuel distributors or AFM, replace the fuel pump or even filter, or install hotrod parts like header, cam, exhaust or even cold air intake, expect to have to do some fine tuning of your mixture for it to be perfect or even run afterward. There are several ways a DIY'er can tune his own car with excellent results.
1 - Adjust By Ear/Feal
I adjusted my mixture by ear and feel with good results for years before I had a wideband O2 gage. It's not difficult to get a smooth running car with no gages or measuring equipment. With the motor running and oxygen sensor UNPLUGGED, adjust rich (CW) until idle starts to slow or stumble, then adjust lean (CCW) till it does the same, then adjust to half way between those 2 points. That's a starting point for tuning. Now drive the car and see how it feels. You're looking for smooth, steady idle, no off idle hesitation or stumble on throttle tip in. You should be able to snap the throttle and the motor should rev cleanly and freely and return to idle smoothly. At WOT you want a nice strong pull to readline. Once you have the motor running the way you want it, tune for the hardest "pull", or what feels strongest at WOT, without compromising drivability.

Rules of thumb:
1. On a throttle snap, if idle races before coming all the way down it suggests a lean mixture. If the idle dips below set idle speed it suggests a rich mixture.
2. If you have a stumble or miss at part throttle cruise you likely have a slightly lean mixture

2 - Adjust by O2 Sensor Voltage
If you want to be more accurate for emmissions reasons, you can adjust the mixture by reading the voltage from the oxygen sensor. Unplug the O2 sensor first so the lambda system doesn't interfere with your adjustments. Make sure the motor is up to temp and the exhaust is hot since the O2 sensor has to be above 600 degrees for an accurate measurement. Bringing the motor up to operating temp by idling won't get it hot enough, you'll have to drive. Adjust the mixture until the O2 sensor voltage is at .45v. Now reconnect the O2 sensor and verify that you have a smooth idle. If it is oscillating you may need to tune slightly by ear to get a smooth idle with the sensor plugged in.

3 - Adjust by Frequency Valve Duty Cycle
You can also back probe the frequency valve with a dwell meter with the motor running and with the O2 sensor plugged in. With a dwell meter you can read the duty cycle of the valve, you target value is 45 degrees.

4 - Narrow Band O2 Meter
On a stock or even NA 320i you can get great results by installing a narrow band air/fuel ratio gage which only costs about $30 and uses the stock oxygen sensor. It is accurate right around stoichiometric ratio, which is really all you need to worry about on a stock motor, and is adequate to set your base mixture with. At WOT the fuel system will go richer than what it can read accurately, but on an NA motor it's not a safety issue as the fuel system will easily adapt to even a modded NA motor.

5 - Wide Band O2 Meter
If you're tuning for max power or have a turbo motor, you need to know your WOT AFR right down to the .x digit. A wide band is the only way to go here.

[320iAman]

Just did a Smog Test - Passed -Presidents Day 2020- Good for 2 more years

No, you don't have to remove the Cam to get to the cylinder head bolts they are all accessible once the valve cover is removed.
System Pressure is fuel pump pressure 60-70+ is good fuel pump
Control pressure- cold is pressure the warm up regulator is exerting on the Piston in the Fuel Distributor--less pressure more fuel per Air volume--start up- warming up-rich condition.
Control pressure -warm is pressure the WUR is exerting on the Piston in the FD when fully warmed up--higher pressure more lean per air volume.
Rest Pressure tests the WUR O-ring in the fuel distributors pressure valve above 20 psi after 20-30 minutes its good.


20/50 cold / warm pressure is standard for the WUR at ~72 ambient-- when its cold the wur cold pressure will be beneath 20 psi and thus add to much fuel--having to do 2 start ups to get idling-yet turning the key on for 1 minute to 2 minutes the coil in the wur will warm up bending the bi metal bar inward by spring pressure and thus raising the cold start up pressure into the 20 psi range and then start up the 1st time. In hot areas most of the time one would have to set the cold control pressure more out ward thus in hot areas still having 20 psi to start up.

Actron III Ignition Module and KV Tester- A Good (green) Led or a Bad (red) Led is used to display ignition module tests results. A 3 digit display shows rpm at which the ignition control module is being tested- it shows and tests several rpms before displaying test results.

The Bosch Ignition Control Module is disconnected from the wiring harness and is connected to the tester wiring harness which is also connected to the battery +/- poles, program select which module your testing General Motors- DIS/IDIS , C3I, HEI, Ford- DIS ,EDIS, TFI-IV ,TFI-I, Dura Spark, Chrysler E.I.S,, Import System--- Bosch ,, Hitachi (Early, Late, Photo Electric Type) Mitsubishi Systems (Nissan) Nippodenso(Toyota) Internally Mounted, Externally Mounted, Electronic Spark Advance Type (ESA) Toyo Denso, Toyota,, in this Case Bosch 20 and then a different harness to do KV testing. I do this testing every year as well.

Randy

[320iAman]

"Ive never broken down an M10 but I have a seized M10 in my garage I wanna take a peek at."

Remove the Cylinder Head and the Crank Shaft then use motor oil or a good lubricant and drench the sides of the pistons where the piston rings make contact with the block cylinder walls both top and bottom ends then take a block of wood and hammer the pistons out, probably 1st piston size although you can measure the cylinder piston bores and confirm what size they are or clean one of the piston tops and read its size there, more than likely a rebore is necessary to 2nd , 3rd or 4th oversize.

Randy