60,000 Service To-Do's M54 Advice

[ThatZ3Guy]

Hi everyone. Long time reader, new poster here looking for some up-to-date information.

I've got a 2001 M54 5-speed Roadie and I am preparing to do the Inspection II. I have a few questions that I wanted to run by the group for your opinions. I sifted through the internet for days and found lots of conflicting and 10+ year old information that I am hoping to square away.

FYI - My car is street driven only, no track or autoX events.

Now onto my questions:

My Bentley manual states that the transmission and differential are filled with "lifetime" fluid. I suspect that the engineers did not intend "lifetime" to extend to 20 years of service (although low usage) and I am thinking I should change the fluids. Am I fixing something that ain't broke, or is it a good idea to go ahead and do this? There is so much debate over which fluids to use and everybody thinks their solution is the correct one, so I was planning on using BMW fluids. There may be better out there, but I can't go wrong with BMW...right?

My car needs brakes. I hate how the OEM pads dust so bad. I was thinking of installing the PBR Euro+ or the Akebono Euro Ceramic pads. There is a significant price difference between the two, but I guess I'm looking for a suggestion one way or another. I observed a lip along the edge of the rotors which makes me think they need to be replaced. It seems the pads had worn the rotors down just slightly from their original thickness (I have not measured them yet). For rotors, I was assuming to just replace with OEM BMW 3.0 rotors. I read about swapping the front end to e46 rotors, but I believe the 3.0 already has larger rotors over other non-M Z's. Is there any benefit to putting the e46 parts on in lieu of the 3.0 parts?

The cooling system was overhauled roughly 10,000 miles ago with a new radiator, hoses, expansion tank, thermostat, and Stewart water pump. Today I was under the car and observed coolant all over the belly of the engine. I cleaned it up and then went for a drive. Upon return, it looks like the coolant is coming from the lower front of the driver side of the engine. The driver side steering boot is wet and I traced it up until I couldn't see it anymore. Both radiator hoses are clean and dry. Any ideas here? I can't see much because of how tightly packed the front of the engine compartment is, but everything is clean and dry looking from the top of the engine.

Here's a picture of my car for good measure

57714913007__8D65A355-DCE8-4D6F-98C6-CFC4FCE2882F.jpg

[nahvkolaj]

It could be the heater pipe or the coolant return pipe. Both are plastic and tuck up under the intake manifold, so a pain to access when doing a cooling system overhaul. Get a light and look for any coolant pooling in the recesses on the side of the block under the intake manifold.

I recently had a radiator failure right where the small diameter vent line to the coolant tank attaches to the radiator, but that made a mess all over the drivers side, not just down low.

[bkirk]

Hi everyone. Long time reader, new poster here looking for some up-to-date information.

I've got a 2001 M54 5-speed Roadie and I am preparing to do the Inspection II. I have a few questions that I wanted to run by the group for your opinions. I sifted through the internet for days and found lots of conflicting and 10+ year old information that I am hoping to square away.

FYI - My car is street driven only, no track or autoX events.

Now onto my questions:

My Bentley manual states that the transmission and differential are filled with "lifetime" fluid. I suspect that the engineers did not intend "lifetime" to extend to 20 years of service (although low usage) and I am thinking I should change the fluids. Am I fixing something that ain't broke, or is it a good idea to go ahead and do this? There is so much debate over which fluids to use and everybody thinks their solution is the correct one, so I was planning on using BMW fluids. There may be better out there, but I can't go wrong with BMW...right?

My car needs brakes. I hate how the OEM pads dust so bad. I was thinking of installing the PBR Euro+ or the Akebono Euro Ceramic pads. There is a significant price difference between the two, but I guess I'm looking for a suggestion one way or another. I observed a lip along the edge of the rotors which makes me think they need to be replaced. It seems the pads had worn the rotors down just slightly from their original thickness (I have not measured them yet). For rotors, I was assuming to just replace with OEM BMW 3.0 rotors. I read about swapping the front end to e46 rotors, but I believe the 3.0 already has larger rotors over other non-M Z's. Is there any benefit to putting the e46 parts on in lieu of the 3.0 parts?

The cooling system was overhauled roughly 10,000 miles ago with a new radiator, hoses, expansion tank, thermostat, and Stewart water pump. Today I was under the car and observed coolant all over the belly of the engine. I cleaned it up and then went for a drive. Upon return, it looks like the coolant is coming from the lower front of the driver side of the engine. The driver side steering boot is wet and I traced it up until I couldn't see it anymore. Both radiator hoses are clean and dry. Any ideas here? I can't see much because of how tightly packed the front of the engine compartment is, but everything is clean and dry looking from the top of the engine.

Here's a picture of my car for good measure

57714913007__8D65A355-DCE8-4D6F-98C6-CFC4FCE2882F.jpg

As to your concern with the rotors, MR. Bentley on page 340-14 give the specs on rotor minimum thickness for both front and rear, solid versus vented rotors. It is not unusual for perfectly fine rotors to have a small edge to them. It is more concerning if the rotor surface is not uniformly worn. Meaning, if the surface (front or backside of any rotor) is uneven then it is time to either have the rotors turned (machined) or replaced. If my rotor was smooth on both sides and well in excess of Mr. Bentley's minimums I would pass on swapping rotors and concentrate on finding good ceramic pad that doesn't produce so much dust.

[ThatZ3Guy]

It could be the heater pipe or the coolant return pipe. Both are plastic and tuck up under the intake manifold, so a pain to access when doing a cooling system overhaul. Get a light and look for any coolant pooling in the recesses on the side of the block under the intake manifold.

I recently had a radiator failure right where the small diameter vent line to the coolant tank attaches to the radiator, but that made a mess all over the drivers side, not just down low.

Thank you for that input. Someone on Facebook thought it to be the hoses under the intake manifold as well. I'll try to narrow it down to that.

As to your concern with the rotors, MR. Bentley on page 340-14 give the specs on rotor minimum thickness for both front and rear, solid versus vented rotors. It is not unusual for perfectly fine rotors to have a small edge to them. It is more concerning if the rotor surface is not uniformly worn. Meaning, if the surface (front or backside of any rotor) is uneven then it is time to either have the rotors turned (machined) or replaced. If my rotor was smooth on both sides and well in excess of Mr. Bentley's minimums I would pass on swapping rotors and concentrate on finding good ceramic pad that doesn't produce so much dust.

Thanks for your input. I hadn't made it to that section of my manual yet, but I was hoping to find some measurement specs there. The rotors are smooth, I just wasn't sure if that lip along the edge was normal or not.

[bkirk]

Thank you for that input. Someone on Facebook thought it to be the hoses under the intake manifold as well. I'll try to narrow it down to that.



Thanks for your input. I hadn't made it to that section of my manual yet, but I was hoping to find some measurement specs there. The rotors are smooth, I just wasn't sure if that lip along the edge was normal or not.

i don't know how BMW rotors and ceramic pad interact, but when I installed ceramic pads on my old 2007 Corvette, the damn brakes make a high pitch squeal to no end, it was embarrassing. So make sure you get some input from some user here on which pads to go with to avoid dust and alerting every dog in a two mile radius.

[z3forlife]

Merc/dex only in the tranny not current BMW fluid per Randy W. Diff uses 75W-140 iirc

[ThatZ3Guy]

i don't know how BMW rotors and ceramic pad interact, but when I installed ceramic pads on my old 2007 Corvette, the damn brakes make a high pitch squeal to no end, it was embarrassing. So make sure you get some input from some user here on which pads to go with to avoid dust and alerting every dog in a two mile radius.

I have seen some talk of the Akebono pads on the forum, so that's why I mentioned those specifically.

Merc/dex only in the tranny not current BMW fluid per Randy W. Diff uses 75W-140 iirc

Not the BMW MTF-LT-1 transmission fluid? Or are you saying it is no longer available?

[ptony101]

First, get yourself a copy of Mike Miller's BMW Lifetime Maintenance Schedule. Best reference for keeping your Z (or any BMW) in top condition. He, and most other knowledgeable BMW wrenchers, will tell you "there is no such thing as a lifetime fluid"!

Highly recommended fluids include Red Line MTL for the tranny and Red Line 75W-90 for diff. You can use heavier for the diff, 75W-110 or 75W-140, but it isn't necessary for non M cars or cruisers. If this is the first time you are changing the tranny fluid, you will notice a huge difference in shifting. You'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner.

[Tigershark48]

Lots of posts on this forum recommending Amsoil products. I just did all my fluids with 20,000 miles on my recently purchased Z.

With the same feedback on smoother shifting, I went with the 5W-30 manual synchro for the tranny.
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...n-fluid-5w-30/

Used this for the differential.
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...r-lube-75w-90/

And, this for the engine.
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...tic-motor-oil/

All other fluids were BMW.

I also did Akebono ceramic pads and they appear to have eliminated the carbon dust problem on the wheels. No noise whatsoever during braking on original rotors.

[pine1000]

The easiest way to find a coolant leak is to use a pressure tester. You can borrow one from most parts stores like Autozone for free.

I had a slow leak after refurbing my cooling system. I looked for it to no avail until I got a pressure tester. 10 minutes later I tightened a hose clamp and the problem was solved.

[rf900rkw]

I have seen some talk of the Akebono pads on the forum, so that's why I mentioned those specifically.

I have tried many different low-dust pads, both my own cars and customers. I have yet to find ones that meet my expectations. Some are down right scary. My personal experience with the Akebono is the bite when new is roughly the same as the OE BMW pads... the worn out heat tempered BMW pads. Then it's down hill from there. I don't like bending the pedal trying to get the car to slow done.I'm kinda funny that way. When a kid or dog runs out in front of me, I don't want to have to wait for the pads to warm up. I hear it all of the time when I tell customers they ought to consider new brakes.. "My brakes work FINE... under normal conditions"

Not the BMW MTF-LT-1 transmission fluid? Or are you saying it is no longer available?

LT-1 doesn't exist. The additive package in it is *the* cause of the dreaded shift pin problem.... a problem that bit several manufacturers and at least one aftermarket oil. They changed to LT-2 spec soon after our cars were built. LT-2 is fine. You can use it if you want. The transmission was designed to use Dexron3. Dex/Merc is the current name for that fluid.

While on the subject. Lifetime fluid, There are many (most) that can't understand what this means. They think that it means the fluid lasts forever... to infinity and beyond. It doesn't. It mean the service life of the fluid exceeds the service life of the transmission (diff, etc). IE in the projected life of the component, the fluid will stay within an acceptable service condition and not need a change. If the transmission fluid failed, it's because the component failed and ruined the fluid... be it contamination or overheating.

And while on that subject. Millers old timey service guide for old timey cars. It's great if you are working on an old car using old techniques and old tech parts and fluids. Technology marches on. Lots of people stay frozen in the past, not understanding or wanting to learn about changes.

[BimmerBreaker]

Randy if you wrote a service guide I would pay for it...

[Vintage42]

Re: MTF-LT-2 -- no longer available:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...s/83220309031/

Re: Dex-Merc - it is the closest thing to the original Dexron III fill.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...6#post29811616

Re: Redline - it meets specs.
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...95&postcount=5

Re: AMSOIL 5W-30 Synchromesh fluid -- they emailed me that it does not meet specs so they don't recommend it. Too viscous, forum comments are that it feels good hot but stiff cold.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...3#post27791193

AMSOIL re 5W30.jpg

[rf900rkw]

Re: MTF-LT-2 -- no longer available:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...s/83220309031/

Incorrect. It is still the specification and still available. Expensive as hell, ~$50 / liter, but it is out there.

- - - Updated - - -

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...n/83222339219/


Also note that your Amsoil letter is specific to the Getrag. OP has a ZF. Still the same as far as the Ams MTF being too thick.

- - - Updated - - -

Randy if you wrote a service guide I would pay for it...

It's all right here in this forum. And it even evolves as things become available/discontinued/different and I become grumpier and grumpier.

[IndianaRoadster]

Hey Randy, as long as you keep providing your excellent advice, I don't care how grumpy you get!

[ThatZ3Guy]

Thank you all for your feedback. It helps me so much to get some new information instead of trying to decipher the really old posts on this forum and I hope it'll help any others who are reading this.

I had read that the Amsoil fluid was not recommended for the Z3 transmissions, like Randy said.

Looks like I need Dex-Merc Dextron 3 for the transmission and some 75W-140 limited slip gear oil for the diff. I think I'm going to give those Akebono ceramic pads a try and I need to pressure test the coolant system. There is someone local who has the the two upper lines in his garage he said I could buy from him if that ends up being the problem, which I'm starting to think it is.

It's all right here in this forum. And it even evolves as things become available/discontinued/different and I become grumpier and grumpier.

Do you have a thread that lays out all the maintenance items in one place?

[Vintage42]

... Do you have a thread that lays out all the maintenance items in one place?

BMW CCA has gone by Mike Miller's schedule for many years.
I think he did the Tech column for the Roundel magazine. He started the schedule decades ago and updated it every so often so it has grown to 46 pages in one place ;-)
https://www.dslreports.com/r0/downlo...e%20v03.13.pdf
Every page now has a big disclaimer at the top.

[Tigershark48]

I did the Akebonos due to recommendations on this forum. I guess I should have waited six months for hard stopping information. Same thing with Amsoil tranny oil. Oh well. Not too late for the OP though. What’s a better pad choice, Randy?

I’m a bit confused about the Amsoil viscosity. Since 5W-30 is pretty low while cold, is the better option a 0W-30 or similar? Which one(s) would be a better choice? My car is a perfect weather pleasure trip driver, so minimum running temp would likely be 70 degrees. Should I be concerned using the fresh Amsoil, especially with only 20k miles on the car and tranny?

[rf900rkw]

The "5W-30" is a marketing ploy. If they were being truthful, they would use the gear oil scale rather than the engine oil scale. In other words 75W-80. It's about 25% thicker than BMW specs. If it matches your usage (ie no cold weather), then go for it. Same for the brakes.


Keep in mind I am very particular about how my cars feel and respond. I rated one car a zero and sold it off because the variable (random) power steering scared the crap out of me in the wet. Lean into a corner and the steering effort would pulse on and off exactly as if the front tires were washing out. Yet if you read any magazine article or ask any owner, they would sing nothing but praises for that POS. The car was a 03 Honda Accord.

[Tigershark48]

BMW CCA has gone by Mike Miller's schedule for many years.
I think he did the Tech column for the Roundel magazine. He started the schedule decades ago and updated it every so often so it has grown to 46 pages in one place ;-)
https://www.dslreports.com/r0/downlo...e%20v03.13.pdf
Every page now has a big disclaimer at the top.

Thanks for posting Vintage. I read the entire report and, personally, I’d rather get guidance from this forum. There were several things I didn’t agree with as simply another person’s opinion, regardless of his vast experience. Brake fluid change every year?? Sorry, but I’ll pass on following this report.

[Tigershark48]

Thanks for the reply Randy. I’ll stick with what I have.

I do recall reading a couple of posts about how hard they had to brake to get the Akebonos to bite, but read many others describing no problem with theirs. I tested mine on my last seasonal outing and they seemed fine. Also, my wheels were much cleaner after a similar drive on the oems. Time will tell this coming season.

[nahvkolaj]

...I need to pressure test the coolant system. There is someone local who has the the two upper lines in his garage he said I could buy from him if that ends up being the problem, which I'm starting to think it is.

If you do have to install the new plastic pipes, make sure the hole they insert into is good and clean, you lube up the o-rings, and you are careful to not pop an o-ring out of its groove when you shove it in. I had to re-install the heater pipe and it wasn’t fun.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ThatZ3Guy]

Are you unhappy with the Akebono pads?

Thanks for the tip! I do not want to redo this job.

[s8ilver]

A pressure test might not reveal a leaky coolant pipe. Mine mysteriously leaked after parked when it was quite cold outsode, but would hold 20psi just fine sitting in the warm garage. I found a trail of dried coolant on one of the pipes when I pulled the manifold and replaced on a whim. It turned out to be the pipe(s).

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

[Tigershark48]

Are you unhappy with the Akebono pads?

Thanks for the tip! I do not want to redo this job.

Go to your other thread on dust free pads at following link and read the second post on page 3. MrBingley is indicating the best choice. I would install them rather than Akebonos.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...t=Ceramic+pads