Top problems

[tombrhill]

An issue gone over several times I'm sure. Yesterday I attempted to lower my convertible top on my 03 Z4. It has been weak the last few times and needed a little push going down or coming up. When I pushed the button, it unlocked but did not move. I pushed it down and it didn't seem to be all the way down. Today I tried to raise it by pulling the red cable in the trunk. It does not seem to come out and the top comes up a bit but one man cannot raise it. Is the cable easy to pull or should I expect it to be hard. It doesn't seem to be doing anything. I'm prepared to operate it manually if need be, I thought it would be easier. HELP

[z3aficionado]

These youtube links might help out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ez4anjz-hc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2Mhl4CWUOs

[tombrhill]

Yes , I looked at these. I might have messed up by pushing it down with out pulling the red pin. It might have compressed what fluid that is in it. I'm gonna wait until I get some help to pull it up then see it the red pin will come out. Right now pulling on it doesn't do anything. Man, I hate these little glitches one after another.

[z3aficionado]

I feel your pain. I am chasing down a fuel gauge that only shows half after I fill the tank up to the max.

[JAS1169]

You said when you pushed the top down button it released from the windshield frame and stopped. Afterwards, (when it stopped) could you still hear the electric motor or was there no sound?? In addition, below the top down/up buttons there are lights can you recall the color when this occurred ??

Although, I don't have the answers to the above, I strongly suspect you either have a dead motor or a leak in the system. If you can still hear the motor running after releasing from the windshield then it's a leak, if you can't hear the motor, then it's dead.

There's a luggage shelf in the trunk, which should be in the lowest position for the top to work. However, the top generally will not unlock from the windshield if this rear shelf is in the wrong position and your top is unlocking which sort of rules this shelf issue out.

If you've watched the video's other posters have listed you'll notice that you only have to slightly pull and then twist the red emergency handle to engage the manual override for the top. If you've done it like in the video and....nothing, then this is shot as well.

It is very common for both the motor/pump and it's attached manual override to fail at about the same time. I was a victim of this same failure with my top up. I was able to go thru the trunk and pull the motor back into the trunk. The red emergency cable is attached to the motor and when engaged pushes in a brass/copper ball bearing that basically releases the pressure in the system. When I looked over this manual override on my frozen unit I noticed a harden white....stuff on the ball bearing and totally around it's edges were it met the frame of the pump. This white stuff had hardened and prevented the ball bearing from any movement inward.

[tombrhill]

My red cable doesn't move. I pull it slightly and rotate it with no effect. How do you go thru the trunk to get to the motor ? The shelf is in the lowered position also.

[JAS1169]

If you can pull it and then sligthly rotate the handle, your engaging the override. If it's still as hard as a rock, the emergency system is shot.

You must determine if your motor/pump is gone or if your leaking/seeping fluid. Again, after your top releases from the front windshield can you still hear an elecric motor running? If yes, you have a leak and honestly the only way to pinpoint it calls for the top to be pulled. However, if the top releases and there's silence, the motors gone.

I did the European thru the trunk method only because my Emergency release system, like yours was shot. In that, to remove the top it had to be folded down to different locations and I couldn't do that because it was rock solid after releasing from the windshield. In much more simpler terms, it was try this thru the trunk method or pay a dealership major $$. Rather then explaining how to do this, please post on the UK Z4 forum (where I got the info) and explain your issue and ask for a link to an old tread which explains how to do this. Here is the link to that forum https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=3

One final note, this is not the most comfortable thing to do, but, I was 65 years old when I did it.

[JAS1169]

I'm adding this for your considereration.

I was going thru youtube recently and this poped up.

I can't tell you if this actually would work, I've never attempted to use it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRwSJq64wBM&list=PLMgppkuaaP0OIPQx0VIc9nfk GxWqDd2LH&index=1

[tombrhill]

I had planned on using it as a manual top for a bit until I could get around to fixing it. I can't even do that now unless I can figure a way to get it up. I'm 68, so I'm not able to get to physical.

[JAS1169]

Having your convertable motor/pump fail and by-pass fail at the same time while having the top down is worst case and limits your options .

https://www.tophydraulics.com/bmwz4instructions.pdf

Please read pages 11 & 12 of the above. However, these instructions are for a top up joint motor/by-pass failure. A top down failure is much worse because the top has folded down and is now sitting locked by great pressure on top of the area's you want to reach to cut the hydo lines.

However, there are two hydo lines that run from the passenger side along the edge of the top. You might be able to reach then and cut one. If you do make this cut, have a person on either side of the top lift up a little, then push down, then repeat, repeat and repeat until the top moves freely. The aforementioned, should act as a pump draining the hydo fluid at the location where you made the cut. Do your best to prevent any fluid from staining the outer cloth top.

After doing this your top will be a manual.

If you feel unconfinable with this, take the car to your nearest dealership. Unless they have retained some super back-door trick, there only option will be to cut one or more of your hydo lines. (Note: even if you bring the car in for a total fix of the motor, they would still need to cut a line to release the pressure locking down the top). The only thing the dealership should charge you for is labor since your simply having them cut one or more hydo lines. Afterwards, it will be manual.....but useable.

[tombrhill]

A link for a step by step, DIY , convertible top removal for my 2003 Z4

[MIKYZZ4]

https://www.google.com/search?ei=n55...71._iCk0VFFKFs

[tombrhill]

Thank you , I have looked at and downloaded several. What I really wish they had is a Convertible Top Repair for Dummies. I have DIY several items already on the car. This, I think will be my biggest issue yet. The car is kept in a garage, so no hurry. It's just whenever a man with 2 rebuilt shoulders can get to it, little by little.

[Clearancediver]

Try this link... lots more DIY’s there as well

**Z4** DIY Guides (Post links here)

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[tombrhill]

Thank you, I was aware of shipkiller, but when I tried to click on before, it had been removed . I've got this now. By any chance are there any fuses that might have any control over this.

[tombrhill]

JAS1169,. How do you go thru the trunk. I've got the shelf out, but am looking at the rear glass. My top is all the way down.

[JAS1169]

Hey Guy

Your top is operated using a sealed hydraulic system. The motor which operates this system has failed and the emergency by-pass which would have released the pressure within the system allowing you to move the top manually has also failed. Your top is now locked in the down position without anyway of releasing the pressure except by cutting one of the hydo lines running across the rear of the top to the passenger side.

The above (folded top down) totally prevents anyone from reaching the motor using the thru the trunk method. Basically the folded top is locked on top of the motor/pump and completely blocks anyone from reaching it.

If you do cut a line, cover the area around where you make the cut with paper or plastic wrap to protect the cloth roof. After making the cut, I'd stick each end of the cut line in empty soda can's. Then, you & another person, on each side, lift a little & then bring back down. Repeat, until the top moves freely. The top would then be usable as a manual.

There is a repair for cut hydo lines https://cabriolethydraulics.com/products-services/hydraulic-hose-repair-couplers/ I should notes that I've never used this product and can not tell you if it actually works.

Again, if you feel unconformable doing this, I strongly urge you to run this past a service rep for BMW or anyone else you know.

PS: I honestly wish there was a way for you to reach the motor thru the trunk, but reaching it is totally blocked by the top being in the down position.

[tombrhill]

Thank you, either way when and if I cut the line, I still have the shelf out. I had to fight to get it out, only hope I can put it back in when I need to.

[JAS1169]

Once you release the pressure locking down the top, you'll be able to move the top to the up position and begin doing the shelf install.

Remember to empty your trunk before and if cutting that line. Also lay a empty plastic bag across the trunks carpet.

If you chose to go manual afterwards, be carful when moving the top up/down because there will no longer be any pressure slowing the tops movement. In simpler terms WATCH WHERE YOU PUT YOUR HANDS when putting the top down.

Lot's of luck...from another older owner.

[tombrhill]

I to am an older owner, 69 on my next birthday. I'll just leave the shelf out until and when I check on the pump/motor. Who knows it might be something else. I recall hearing a thump noise while riding a while back.