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So I have a e36 325i (this is my first post) w/ m50 motor. cars cps went bad. how did i know? tested cps and it wouldn't test. replaced it and the car started. had a little trouble bleeding the coolant system, coolant system finally bled and i got coolant in the spark plug holes so it started misfiring... smfh. blew out the coolant from the spark plug wells, let the coils sit out of the car overnight. 24 hours later put the coils back in and now the car wont fckin start... checked the new cps, running 500 ohms so thats good. tested spark plugs for spark, getting spark... tested white plug (tested pigtails unplugged from fuel pump)on fuel pump and was at 4 volts on 12vlt setting on volt meter... why is that? also tested 4 volts when i replaced the cps to begin with so either way it was 4 volts and the car was running. so currently the car isnt running and it was yesterday before i pulled the coil packs. checked all the fuses and theyre good. why is this car such a pita. i've had it for 2 years now and no issues like this before. its very frustrating but a learning experience for sure. any and all help would be much appreciated!!!
Last edited by shogun; 02-11-2020 at 11:38 PM.
shade tree mechanic
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Moved to E36 Forum
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Normal for the pump to show low voltage, the dme only briefly energizes the pump (1 second) to get fuel pressure and prevent flooding, pump will run when engine runs. How did you get any liquid in the spark plug wells, that's not really possible?
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Balogne Cajones
Unplug the battery for a minute or 2 and plug it back in,.. If it doesn't fire after that, you shorted and killed your coils. Its not uncommon for water to get int the wells in severe weather, and end up doing this. Happens alot to e34 in my area that park outside in the winter.
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I just did the plug boots and plugs, currently charging the battery and going to see what going to happen after that. If it’s the coils that’s an easy fix
Member
How would you be getting spark at the plugs if the coil was bad?
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So tested some other things. Checked fuse 18, no power. checked fuel relay and no power to 30 or 87, also checked dme relay and im getting power to 30 but not 87. ordered new dme and fuel relays so they should be here tomorrow. i have a red label w turner performance chip. gonna try and swap the chip with stock chip to see if that changes anything. anything else i should check? issue came about when i left coils out overnight and im super stumped.
Member
Replaced fuel pump bc doa as well, hooked everything back up and still no power to pump. i believe dme is not sending ground to main relay. put in new main and fuel relay and fuse 18. disabled ews...
Member
Is this your '94 325i ?
Are you sure your measuring the pump, its on the passenger side. It could not run on 4 volts, you said the car was running, so your doing something wrong.
Possibilities, the pump is bad (be sure to also do the filter). Or the Cam sensor is bad.
Your car is OLD as F. Things will fail. And now we have cheap aftermarket parts that will fail sooner!
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i replaced the pump with a new one, white plug (sending unit) is working but no power to black plug (pump) no power to fuel relay either
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Test your cam sensor.
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Balogne Cajones
Eric.. We have been through this many times... Cam sensor only attents vanos and specific injector timing on obdl vehicles.. Crank sensor triggers fuel pump and spark sequence activation. You can unplug obd1 cam senaors or even tune it out completely and it wont cause a no start.
Id bet, either you blew a fuse. (Check all of them electronicly) or its security system involved.. If its ewsl, then there are measures that prevent the car from starting like door lock positions.
Also note to the reaponce from my previous responce.. Obviously if he didnt fry all of his coils he would have sparks in possible other ones he teated for spark.. It only takes 2 bad coils to make a no start. I figured aomeone qouldve asked how he got coolant in the spark plug wells before they asked how someone would have spark with a bad coil? Lol
shade tree mechanic
Moderator
Based on ETK the camshaft sensor for his car would be 12141740383 , google says: 12V operating voltage, 3-pole, Hall sensor, type of sensor: active sensor.
How to test that sensor with DIY tools +without scope? Here is a link, not sure if that would work http://www.dickey-john.com/_media/ag..._quick_ref.pdf
But based on spyderg0d's comments it is not relevant for this problem anyway to test the cam sensor
Last edited by shogun; 03-09-2020 at 08:31 PM.
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