Cooling System Bleed issue after replacing Water Pump and Thermostat

[JulianPierce]

When I go through the process of "Bleeding" the Cooling System, COOLANT SHOOTS FROM THE BLEEDER SCREW!!!

1. Undo Cap from Coolant Expansion Tank
2. Loosen Bleeder Screw 3-4 revolutions (Enough for air to flow out)
3. Turn on Ignition (*NOT ENGINE)
4. Turn Climate Control to MAXIMUM Heat and LOWEST Fan speed(1 Bar)
5. Fully depress Gas Pedal for 10-12 Seconds, then release to begin process

Allow vehicle 12-15 Minutes to bleed the air out of the Cooling System from the Bleeder Screw... it was never mentioned the screw should also bleed COOLANT

Coolant does not leak from Bleeder Screw when fully tightened.

Improper Procedure?
Something else needing attention?
Alternative route?

[shogun]

Moved from BMW Rides & Events to here.

[White94RX]

I never use the bleed screw on vehicles with electric water pumps. Obviously, as you have figured out, the bleed screw must me fully tightened to perform the bleed procedure.

[mandd]

1. You do not need to loosen the bleed screw, leave it alone.

2. Coolant will come out of the bleed hole inside the expansion tank which will be visible with the cap off.

3. The coolant shooting from the screw, which should be left alone is normal.

Mark.

[jclausen]

It bleeds it self when the pump is activated, your good to go

[JulianPierce]

Thank you all for your feedback. I was not aware that it is not necessary to loosen the bleeder screw when doing this. Thank you, again.

[Eric BMW]

I ws under the impression that I NEEDED my car to be hooked up to a battery charger to run this procedure. Are those who say that being overly cautious?

[Codes2]

Those instructions are from someone's memory...

I loosened the screw as I filled, until it was ready to come out.
Then tightened and did the procedure. (10~ mins)
Then I topped the fluid back up.

I used a charger for the full 10 minute runs, as 400 watts for 10 mins is a significant drain.
Not doing so is pretty risky IMO.